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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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Triple Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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The finest seven pitches of aid on El Cap- no argument here!
First week of June, this year.
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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A group of us were doing the Talkeetna hang at The West Rib, swapping stories about 'the best route'. I was testifying to the utterly surreal feel of the upper headwall pitches on The Shield, when Gary turns around from the table behind us, and smiles. Priceless when you meet people who impress you, face to face.
Bluering, when Jacobson and I did it, there were about a half-dozen small pin placements after I took a long ride and chickened out of the 'hammerless' ascent. You could hook peckers on old heads all over the place.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice, steve-o!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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Always easy to spot people on the upper pitches...
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ec
climber
ca
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I remember watching Jim Beyer taking a decent ripper on Triple Cracks while on the first solo ascent. It was quiet enough in the meadow that we could hear the pins popping...
 ec
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Shield Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Thanks for the link, Anders. Great shots of Mimi's proudest effort, swingin' leads on the Big Stone!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 29, 2009 - 04:24am PT
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Bump for the Big'n
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Someone mentioned Beyer on solo ascent. I remember reading that Beyer was cleaning a pitch and the rope was going over a blade. The rope was sawing through as he jugged and he couldn't fix this problem. He prayed to God for help and none came. He said this is when he realized there was no God. Or something along those lines.
Someone probably will know where this was written as I don't remember. Probably a old climbing mag.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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A rope chop from an projecting piton blade has always been one of my biggest concerns while wall climbing. I back clean any pin placement that even remotely poses that sort of threat. I like my haul loop but not that much! LOL Core shots are bad enough...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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Bump for a Jack Roberts second ascent story!!!
Jack also bagged the second on the A-5 loaded Zodiac along with Hugh Burton!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 27, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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bluering,
I'm pretty sure Charlie Fowler and company did a clean, hammerless ascent of the Shield, no free climbing on the headwall though.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 27, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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I'm calling bogus on ec.
I watched Jim and he didn't rip.
I'd led that pitch 10 months earlier and the pin scars were already very friendly, certainly A3 or less.
I heard the core shot story though. Maybe ec is a little confused or was watching a different pitch.
The real bitch was the weather, wet and coooold.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 27, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Ron,
It may have been the pitch after, TC; the long single crack. He did zipper though, no mistaking that.
ec
Why would I make sh#t up?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 28, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Why indeed??
But I watched (and the pitch after TC was already A1, 2 max, NBD).
(may have been the last person to talk to him at the base before starting too)
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 28, 2010 - 03:11am PT
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'guess you weren't looking at that time!
Check your email...
ec
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jun 28, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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The shield is a classic and takes a proud line..
Rick Lovelace and i did it in 86... it was well pinned out, semi fixed but still hairy! I was gripper on the grove pitch, knowing that Troy Johnson did take that mega whipper the year before (or so)...
here is Rick following the roof.
then the bivvy that night...
ks
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