Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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A great account of an ultra classic El Cap FA.
The sweetest line on the headwall to be sure and my second El Cap route back in 1978. The cracks start and end in utter blankness.
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hooblie
climber
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Apr 19, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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steve, your shakin' on my tree. i so revere this route, it's "position" in particular, that i'm hustling to be the first to say hear! hear! i am motivated now to scan a few and gather a few thoughts to shore up your call. though it has been tread by many by now she was still my first ec(among few) and i was thrilled in the absolute back in '78. for now i'll hit the send button and get some education on how to post slides.
ps. i've travelled lite in my day so know that i, among many i'm sure, appreciate reading, after all these years have passed, the literature apropos that you make accessible by posting here.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Apr 19, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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I've always thought that The Shield's location was second to none on El Capitan, and that being on that headwall is one of the most bizarre and unique experiences available to man, unlike (in the 1970s) anything else in history when you think about it.
JL
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Apr 19, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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Just the idea of this route got me into big walls, and I still haven't done it.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 19, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
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I agree John. And that this route was unknown to the rest of us, swept right up, done in great style. A really world-class eternal achievement. Really creative, really strong. As if in a dream!!
Charlie was the most creative, productive big wall climber of his time.
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apogee
climber
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Apr 19, 2009 - 10:37pm PT
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My second EC wall as well, but in the mid-90's- a much, much different experience from those early ascents- the Triple Cracks were so beat out that it was inconceivable that they ever took dozens of RURP's. I remember being surrounded by my new-generation gear being in awe of the early ascents on the gear of the time.
The Headwall is one of the top three climbing experiences of my life- truly mind-blowing to have the sweep of EC below your feet. Hats off to Bocarde & Porter for one of the most impressive, visionary ascents ever.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Apr 19, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Thanks again, Steve!!! Another stellar post!!!
Thor
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Elcap76
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Apr 20, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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I did the shield as my second wall in 1979 (Dihedral was first), and absolutely loved it! Looking up at the route from the triple direct it looks like an old bronze age shield, and the orange/golden staining really adds to the impression. Many fixed rurps were present in the groove and triple cracks pitches, but we had to place at least 1/2 of the gear ourselves. Crack damage was not too bad at that point, I actually placed two rurps on the triple cracks pitch and about 5 tied off knifeblades. At the end of the pitch it was a two bolt (button head contraction type) belay, and I thought about how I would really prefer three bolts at that point.
We bivy'd on the triple cracks, and due to a major error (I thought my partners pile pants were my hammock-hey the stuff bags were identical), I spent the night in three butt-bags. I passed the night fitfully, listening to Pink Floyd's The Wall (mommas gonna keep baby comfy and warm), and watching the celestial clock tick off the minutes until the first rays of light. What a fantastic wall! the exposure and the crack system are the stuff of dreams.
Dana
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 20, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Bump it for Mr. Grossman the historian again.
Whoo hoo!
Steve, you know how to pick 'em!!!!1111
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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Chickenhead Ledge is covered with......bumps!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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Lots of bumps....
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 26, 2009 - 01:52am PT
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Thanks Steve. Such a wild position, like being on the outside of a huge balloon.
When Matt Dancy and I climbed the Shield in 1983, I led the Groove pitch, placing a few tiny RPs in the gaps between rurps (we climbed clean up to here). The webbing on the rurps had had a decade of sun, and was white, brittle and frayed. The rurps’ webbing seemed worse towards the top of the pitch. The very last rurp was the worst of all; just a few pathetic strands were left, and as I weighted it, I could see the dust flying off the straining threads. I held my breath, and reached up and up and up and yes! grabbed the bolt.
I heard that just a couple months later, someone took an eighty-footer there.
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Gene
climber
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Apr 26, 2009 - 02:28am PT
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"Looking down the Canadian Route."
Guess "Magic Mushroom" was too heady for the mags BITD.
AAJ first called Mescalito the "End All Route."
To say nothing of "Untitled" rather than "Walls without Balls."
gm
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Olihphant
climber
Somewhere over the rainbow
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Apr 26, 2009 - 09:23am PT
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Brilliant, simply brilliant!
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don't have one
climber
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Apr 26, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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I didn't get to climb The Shield until '94(I was only 21). At that time it was well beaten out; it seemed like the key pieces were sawed off 3/4 and 5/8, and of course the leepers helped a lot. Still, this is one of the more memorable routes on the Captain. Great climbing and exposure....an incredible vision for its time.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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We flew right by Charlie and Gary in the chopper (Angel 1) when they were up there. They were using my red haul bag I made on my moms sewing machine.
Awesome looking, to bad we didn't have a camera.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2009 - 10:29am PT
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A shot of Steve Sutton on the triple cracks taken by Pratt on the third ascent from Yosemite Climber. Absolutely joyous climbing!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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What would the Triple Cracks go at free? Are they lead protectable without a hammer?
(I do expect to catch sh#t for even asking such a stupid question)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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Most of the Triple Cracks is the size of a thin Bugaboo. No telling what sort of scars are up there at present. Little for the feet, overhanging about five degrees and no rest features at all. The good news is that you wouldn't touch a thing but eternity falling for miles up there! LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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Triple Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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The finest seven pitches of aid on El Cap- no argument here!
First week of June, this year.
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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A group of us were doing the Talkeetna hang at The West Rib, swapping stories about 'the best route'. I was testifying to the utterly surreal feel of the upper headwall pitches on The Shield, when Gary turns around from the table behind us, and smiles. Priceless when you meet people who impress you, face to face.
Bluering, when Jacobson and I did it, there were about a half-dozen small pin placements after I took a long ride and chickened out of the 'hammerless' ascent. You could hook peckers on old heads all over the place.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice, steve-o!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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Always easy to spot people on the upper pitches...
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ec
climber
ca
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I remember watching Jim Beyer taking a decent ripper on Triple Cracks while on the first solo ascent. It was quiet enough in the meadow that we could hear the pins popping...
 ec
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Shield Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Thanks for the link, Anders. Great shots of Mimi's proudest effort, swingin' leads on the Big Stone!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 29, 2009 - 04:24am PT
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Bump for the Big'n
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Someone mentioned Beyer on solo ascent. I remember reading that Beyer was cleaning a pitch and the rope was going over a blade. The rope was sawing through as he jugged and he couldn't fix this problem. He prayed to God for help and none came. He said this is when he realized there was no God. Or something along those lines.
Someone probably will know where this was written as I don't remember. Probably a old climbing mag.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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A rope chop from an projecting piton blade has always been one of my biggest concerns while wall climbing. I back clean any pin placement that even remotely poses that sort of threat. I like my haul loop but not that much! LOL Core shots are bad enough...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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Bump for a Jack Roberts second ascent story!!!
Jack also bagged the second on the A-5 loaded Zodiac along with Hugh Burton!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 27, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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bluering,
I'm pretty sure Charlie Fowler and company did a clean, hammerless ascent of the Shield, no free climbing on the headwall though.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 27, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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I'm calling bogus on ec.
I watched Jim and he didn't rip.
I'd led that pitch 10 months earlier and the pin scars were already very friendly, certainly A3 or less.
I heard the core shot story though. Maybe ec is a little confused or was watching a different pitch.
The real bitch was the weather, wet and coooold.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 27, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Ron,
It may have been the pitch after, TC; the long single crack. He did zipper though, no mistaking that.
ec
Why would I make sh#t up?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 28, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Why indeed??
But I watched (and the pitch after TC was already A1, 2 max, NBD).
(may have been the last person to talk to him at the base before starting too)
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 28, 2010 - 03:11am PT
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'guess you weren't looking at that time!
Check your email...
ec
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jun 28, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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The shield is a classic and takes a proud line..
Rick Lovelace and i did it in 86... it was well pinned out, semi fixed but still hairy! I was gripper on the grove pitch, knowing that Troy Johnson did take that mega whipper the year before (or so)...
here is Rick following the roof.
then the bivvy that night...
ks
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 28, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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Shield Bump!
Thor
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 31, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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The location is fully awesome, the actually climbing, unfortunately, grotesque.
When I did it with John Fine recently we placed 8 hammered pieces and 4 of those were tapped only once. The route did have a far amount of fixed gear it in but it was fair less fixed than I was expecting.
I'm not a badass, brave to the bone clean aid climber but all in all, we certainly climbed no C4, mostly easy C3. Offset cam were the ticket with probably 85% of all placements. Beaks as hooks in scars was the next best bet. The were usually quite bomber hand placed and with one tap, they were piece of mind.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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A nice clean Shield bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Charlie Porter Bump...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 20, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Classic Valley History BUMP!
BTW, ec doesn't make stuff up Toker.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
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Bump for All Time Greatness.
Charlie and Gary snagged the Captain's best wrinkle.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
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Tasty Porter Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Hammerless bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Hatchethead Bump...
Anyone have a photo of these rare bits of Porterware?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 10:16am PT
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Sad that folks just keep pounding on this proud route.
Have a little pride and leave the hammer on the ground folks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2016 - 07:03am PT
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The Chief took a giant fall like the one mentioned, in June of '83. Ripped the groove from like halfway, later he was unable to untie the know and had to cut it with a knife. We were two parties behind. He told me the details while we walked down from the Ashram, after the Brutus memorial.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 18, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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Wasn't that Troy Johnson who took that huge ripper on the groove pitch and couldn't untie the knot.
Troy told me what happened about the knot and couldn't believe it.
Then he showed me the knot he had cut off from his harness.
That knot was welded so tight ......
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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I thought the Chief said he fell, but maybe he meant he was a member of the team (?)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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I recall that it was Troy too. See Kurt Smith's post upthread.
Funny thing about the Groove is that it isn't really a RURP-sized crack.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2017 - 11:28am PT
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The guru is the Groove...bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2018 - 07:54pm PT
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Bump for Yerian dreams...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 10:53am PT
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I had the pleasure of meeting Gary at the Bridwell memorial and look forward to interviewing him sometime soon. Lots of Wall Men at that gathering!
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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