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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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anything?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 19, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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Are you kidding?
We're talking about working with the Bureau of Reclamation here, a dysfunctional, mismanaged and under funded waste of tax dollars. Nothing will ever just "get done" with this waste of an organization.
On the other foot we have the ASRA management. A savvy crack squad of highly motivated personnel I'm sure. They're probably working with a skeleton budget and the last thing they need or want to be doing is encouraging people to use "their" land. Besides, with their pathetic budget I doubt they have any means to enforce such a ban anyway. California's broke and getting broker every day. Until that changes I doubt any progress on the issue will be made.
Anyway, like I say, I doubt their is anyone around to enforce a ban and I know people have been climbing there for the past year or two quite regularly with no problems. You make the call.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 10, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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I got an email from The Access Fund....
http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=12103565
The meat of the link...
//The park managers have now agreed to allow rock climbing at the Quarry, but due to budget cuts the park will require CRAGS to establish and maintain basic services there.
//
It sounds like the park will only be open on weekends and holidays, but I'm not sure how that will work.
They need a measly $9,200 to get 'er done.
I'll pitch in $50.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Aug 10, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
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Auburn is pretty sick for a local crag. Worth supporting.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Anyway, like I say, I doubt their is anyone around to enforce a ban and I know people have been climbing there for the past year or two quite regularly with no problems. You make the call.
Interesting... we have a similar deal going on down south, I don't wish to be specific.
If you want to climb there just go climb there and take your lumps if you get rousted. Don't hold back on account of delicate negotiations. There aren't any.
DMT
I have the same feelings to.
The place I am referring to is so forgotten that the "NO No No No No NO" signs have weathered away.... haven't been replaced, in two years.
The "save the deal" committee isn't doing squat and has not done anything in like 5 years, except put out some FORUM posts.
So whats a climber to do????
Anyway it a good thing that you folks might get one of your spots back.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 11, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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There's already a porta potty on the trail by the river.
I think it's a small price to pay. Make sure any new excrement and trash is taken care of no big deal.
It's seems kind of unfair, but the state recreation area is already hurting for cash. You will now have to buy a parking pass to park along any of the roads down there or get a ticket. So it's not just climbers that are having to start paying.
It's better to pay now and get climbing legal. Then it will be harder to ban again in the future even if they can't raise the money every year.
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bp
Trad climber
Placerville, Ca
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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All,
I have been involved in the negotiations with the Auburn State Recreation Area and the Bureau of Reclamation to reopen the Quarry. I would like to share some thoughts.
First, thanks for your patience. Since forming CRAGS in 2008, we have worked really hard to get this place reopened. It has not been easy, and it has taken way longer than we hoped. I personally spent probably hundreds of hours doing research; drafting letters; making phone calls; meting with attorneys, the Access Fund, and community leaders; meeting with the ASRA and the BOR; reviewing, drafting, and redrafting the agreement; and driving - lots of driving. I don't say that to pat myself on the back, but rather, to explain why it has taken so long. Again, thanks for your patience.
Second, the negotiated agreement we have with the BOR and ASRA is not perfect, and by no means is it the solution we have hoped for all these years. Additionally, it still has to be signed by the state parks headquarters office, but all indications look like that will happen.
Third, I share the sentiment of frustration expressed over the fact that there was never a legitimate reason for the ban in the first place. I also understand, and anticipated, the frustration over climbers having to pay for services that many climbers don't want, and/or don't feel are necessary. I understand the feeling that climbers are being singled out or treated unfairly compared to other user groups. I dislike, as much as anyone else, the fact that climbing will be allowed only on weekends and holidays. And I, perhaps more than most, share the concern that climbing access is now conditioned upon meeting commitments that will require a lot of volunteer and donation support.
These are legitimate concerns, and i share them.
And while I realize that nothing I can say on this forum will put all of these concerns to rest, I offer the following:
First, the agreement is for a one-year term. The long-term goal of both CRAGS and the land managers, is to have the land managers take over all responsibilities in the Quarry, but if and when this will really happen is anyone's guess. At a minimum, the ASRA must complete the update to its general management plan that it begun many years ago, and that depends on funding, among other things. Although we don't particularly like being in the business of providing waste services, we are prepared to be in this for the long run.
Second, providing garbage and toilet services in the Quarry (notwithstanding that there are already garbage cans and toilets along the river on the approach trail) was an absolute tenet of the negotiated agreement that the ASRA and BOR would not back off of. Simply put, if there was going to be a deal, it absolutely had to include those services. The land managers were convinced (and probably rightly so) that climbers would not walk down from the Quarry to use these facilities once they were up there and climbing.
Third, although we tried very hard, they would not agree to reopen the Quarry more than on weekends and holidays. It's difficult for me to explain, but I believe the land managers are just very naive about climbing, and frankly, very nervous. They want to proceed slowly by feeling it out as they go. I am confident that if all goes well initially, we may be able to convince them to extend the days of operation. To that end, we built in a mandatory evaluation at the end of two, and six months of the agreement in order to reopen discussions on this and other issues. Let's keep our fingers crossed.
Fourth, the agreement is going to require a lot of volunteer help. While there are a few locals that have expressed the desire to help out, we really need those that want to climb here to step up and participate, either by volunteering their time or money.
Again, I know this is not the ideal solution, but after almost ten years, we felt like something was better than nothing.
Brian Poulsen
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all in jim
climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Brian -
Thanks so much for all your work on this! I look forward to the days when climbing there will be simpler again. It will hopefully happen if we keep pushing for it.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 13, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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Lots of thanks Brian. Crags has been working hard on this for years now and it is really appreciated.
I understand that compromises have to made and something is far far better that nothing in terms of legal access.
I agree with the approach of crags, get it legal and then work from there for more days, and less direct support from climbers.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Given the length of the ban and the ASRAs unwillingness to make any progress over MANY years of intense effort, this is, and most likely will be, our only chance of getting this place open legally. The time to open the doors, even if only partially, and slowly build the trust to lead to an open access situation is now or never. I told Brian during this development that we need to keep the momentum. With budgets/budget cuts, personnel changes, and SRA issues, who knows if tomorrow would bring a new manager and reset the whole thing back to Ban status? Counting on failure of enforcement is not an option nor a smart move, ever.
As for the, "I still climb here illegally therefore I don't like this" sentiment, I told Brian and the rest of CRAGS that this would surface quickly. Yes, it is known by the SRA that people continue to climb here under the radar. This was a fact that had to be mitigated to the ASRA not put us in any better position to get it re-opened. So pat yourself on the back if you would like, but the reality is poachers were a hurdle and part of the reason why this deal took so long.
We are moving into a 2 month trial period, climbers as a whole need to put on our bestest smiley faces and show the ASRA that climbers are the ideal user group. Whether you like it or not, if climbing fails legally, you can bet your @$$ that the enforcement of the "resumed" climbing ban will be intense.
To Recap:
 Yes, we are being singled out.
Yes, we are being put under unfair and unequitable conditions compared to other user groups.
Yes, the toilets are mostly for other user groups, though honestly I have seen many climbers scratching holes, so it can't hurt to have it there.
Yes, the risk of once you pay, you always will is there.
But the bottom line is starting in a few weeks you will be able to legally walk into the quarry and climb. Its been since April 15, 2003 since you could say that:
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STATE OF CALIFORNIA
DEPARTMENT OF PARKS AND RECREATION
GOLD FIELDS DISTRICT
AUBURN SECTOR
ORDER NO. 03-691-02
April 15, 2003
Technical climbing is prohibited on any geological feature within the Auburn State Recreation Area. Technical climbing is defined as climbing up or down a geological feature using some type of apparatus to assist with the accent or decent. Apparatus includes, but is not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, active or passive protection, (cams, nuts, etc.), carabineers, chains, and/or harnesses.
Exceptions to this order may only be granted in writing by the District Superintendent, Gold Fields District, 7806 Folsom-Auburn Road, Folsom, CA 95630.
Nothing herein shall be construed in derogation of other provisions of law.
Jacqueline Ball (signature)
JACQUELINE BALL
District Superintendent
AUTHORITY:
State of California; Public Resources Code , Section 5003 and 5008.
California Code of Regulations, Title 14, Division 3, sections 4307, 4319, & 4326.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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We are getting there guys. Instead of TALKING about access, let's all step up and do something as easy as donating a few bucks. No amount is too small. Hit the submit button, pat yourself on the back and know that you just didn't talk about climbing access, you really DID SOMETHING ABOUT IT.
http://tinyurl.com/9rw94j5
Open Auburn Quarry
We need your help to open Auburn Quarry outside of Sacramento, CA!
Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento (CRAGS) and the Access Fund are excited to announce the successful negotiation of an agreement with California’s Auburn State Recreation Area to lift a 9-year ban on rock climbing at the Cave Valley Climbing Area (the “Auburn Quarry”).
Climbing access is now contingent on CRAGS providing critical services in the area to offset climber impacts. CRAGS and the Access Fund are working to raise $9,520 to provide these services and restore climbing access early next month! Please make a tax-deductible contribution today!
I'm already into the Quarry for thousands related to development and I just donated another $200. You can probably find a $10/$20 spot in your couch if you look hard enough.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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OK guys we are getting there. Under $2K to go. Even if you don't live in this area, chances are if you live in California at some point you will find yourself in the greater Sacramento area and only have a single day to get out and climb with limited gear. Auburn is less than 40 miles from downtown, has an awesome river to swim in right by the climbing, and has cool hikes / geological features to check out.
**
Link to donate @ Accessfund**
http://tinyurl.com/9rw94j5
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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Just donated a c-note........
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks! I saw your old post about having a specific line in mind for development. I am really looking forward to resuming development as well as getting other local developers excited about the area. There is SO MUCH potential out here! This could easily be the top sport climbing destination on the west side of the Sierras for Northern California without even coming close to its potential.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Nick work Roughster!
I'm in.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 21, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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A certain exiled, ex cop, just mentioned to me that he paid the last $500!
I gotta go there sometime.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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Sweet, I'm in for a few bucks.
Well, I guess a victory under strict negotiated terms is better than total failure. Been a long time coming, congrats to those who have worked so hard.
Aaron, I know this place is like your long lost baby, the crown and jewel for a motivated developer. I'm stoked for you!
I'm sure I'll see you out there, just save something for me. I'd like to put maybe one route up out there, perhaps a punishing difficult slab route that no one will ever climb. That's about right up my alley ;)
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