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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 8, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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I spent most of my night tonight working on the presentation to the city council. Myself and the other board of directors including Vic Copland, Brian Poulsen, Gordon Ansleigh, and Suzanne Hurt will be there to try and get the Auburn City Council to support our efforts in getting the Quarry reopened to climbers.
Hope to see you there!
From: Yourcrags.org
Auburn Quarry Needs Your Support
Do you like limestone? Would you like to be able to drive to the foothills and have your pick of at least 150 good climbs?
If your answers are "Yes. Yes. Yes!!," then the quarry at Auburn State Recreation Area needs your help.
CRAGS is pushing ahead on efforts to get climbing legalized in the recreation area. Access to this climbing area has been long sought by climbers. And it'd help boost Auburn's economy with all the money we climbers spend while we're out there on gas, food, Starbucks, microbrews, camping, supplies and other stuff.
The next step is to seek the city of Auburn's assistance with requesting that the California Department of Parks and Recreation speed up lifting the ban that's been in place since 2003.
The state parks' Gold Fields District, which manages the federally (publicly) owned land, is currently developing an updated General Plan/Interim Resource Management Plan for the recreation area that appears to include technical rock climbing as an approved activity.
CRAGS will make a 15-minute presentation to Auburn's City Council at about 6:30 p.m. Monday, April 13. The meeting starts at 6 p.m.
The more climbers who can turn out for the meeting and show their support for this climbing area, the better. It's a drive for some folks -- carpool if you can so that city officials know how much interest there is when they make their decision.
The city will be considering this request until its April 13 meeting, when the resolution is expected to be voted on. Please call, email or write the city manager and mayor requesting their support for an expedited end to the climbing ban.
For directions to city council chambers and map.
The Auburn City Hall is very easy to find. From the west, take the 2nd Auburn exit. It will say Hwy 49 to Grass Valley. At the end of the ramp, go right. The large old 3-story yellow-brick building right in front of you as you drive up the street is City Hall. Get in the left lane. At the signal, go straight across with a slight angle left, into the driveway for City Hall. Park behind the building, and walk to the left rear entrance (downhill side of the back of the building). Inside the door, stairways go up and down. Bear left and go up. When you reach the next level, the City Council chambers will be through the doors on the left.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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AR,
can you throw down a mailing address or email for the city manager's office?
I didn't see it on the CRAGS site. But didn't look too hard.
thx,
M
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 02:14am PT
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Munge, I'll grab the address tomorrow and post it here.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Wow, this is good news. I was just talking about the future of Auburn Quarry with some Sacto locals tonight. I'm glad to see somethings actually progressing with this situation.
Unfortunately the likelihood of me being able to make the meeting is slim. However, perhaps I will show my support by firing off a persuasive letter to the city councils office.
I could use a little help in writing my letter though. What are some key points/benefits to allowing climbing I should add to the letter? I would like to keep it more factual and less opinionated if possible. People tend to pay attention and listen to facts while on the other hand, not give two shits about someones opinion. Then again, that's not always the case.
I really appreciate the effort put forth by the members of CRAGS in the case of Auburn. Aaron, you have been a leading force in this effort from the beginning and most certainly deserve recognition. Though we've not always agreed on things and have exchanged words in the past... still, I admire you.
Keep up the fight!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Thanks for your work off and on the cliff. I can not make the meeting either would letters help?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Can you post any pics of the Quarry?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/3031427187_a1b91401a4.jpg?v=0]
[
For starters :)
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Eric McAuliffe
Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
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i used to climb there alot when i was in high school near sac. The blasting the mining co. is doing still is sorta creepy when the sirens come on, then freekin BOOOOOOOMMMMM!!!! the cliffs rattling and s*it, kinda scary. I've seen some scary rockfall from the choss up high but if your ok with this auburn is really fun climbing.
Last time i was up there there were bolts missing (lead and anchor) on several different routes on the first 2 cliffs you come too, cant remember the names now, but those were most known, so others in horseshoe canyon and others are OK?
I am not able to attend the meeting but will spread the word elsewhere and try to boost attendance. Im stoked to hear the possability that technical climbing be allowed once again in the ASRA. Lots of climbers from the SAC area and beyond will be very pleased.
E
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Great job and nice pics. Thanks!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Eric,
Active mining in the lower 2 Tracts (now fenced off) is done, they are only "restoring" the area. And by restoring, I mean they are bulldozing millions of tons of earth into the area. The only sirens you hear nowadays is the ambulance heading down into the ORV area @ Mammoth Bar...
Thanks for the kudos guys and I don't want to take all the credit for our recent progress. The CRAGS board of directors have played a key role in getting CRAGS up and running and helping us better represent climbers in this process.
When Auburn reopens (must have faith), Sac and Bay Area climbers will finally have a true sport climbing destination area. The potential at Auburn includes 200-300 routes many of them multipitch.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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The address for City hall is:
Auburn City Offices
(530) 823-4211
1225 Lincoln Way
Auburn, CA
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john hansen
climber
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Hey roughster,, I knew a Gordon Ainsliegh in the mid 80's when I lived in Auburn. Must be the same guy.
He was one of the first to run the western states endurance run.
Good luck with the quarry.
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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"Can you post any pics of the Quarry?"
Haha, that's like asking a crack addict "can you help me finish off this crack?"
Thank Aaron and Crags. I'll be there.
-Steve
Here's email addresses and the start of the letter I sent.
njrhs@inreach.com; bridgetpowers@sbcglobal.net; mr.auburn@sbcglobal.net; hanleykh@jps.net; flyingsurgeon210@yahoo.com; rrichardson@auburn.ca.gov
Subject: Please re-open the Auburn Mountain Quarry for rock climbing
Dear Auburn City Council Members and Manager,
I would like to express my support to re-open the Auburn Mountain Quarry for rock climbing...
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
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John, That's the Gordy! He will also be at the meeting if you want to swing by and say hi!
Steve, thanks for providing email addys for people. We'll see you guys there hopefully!
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Bump.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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good area for kids too....
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
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Agreed!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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I'll be there.
Just moved to Auburn about a year ago.....was psyched to hear about the quarry.....was then super bummed to hear about the closure.
I'll try to get the local gym owner and some of the members to show up.
Steve Montesanto
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 10, 2009 - 08:54am PT
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nudge
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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euro-brief-guy: That sounds great. Thanks!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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The meeting is tomorrow. Please come if you can. The more climbers we can get in there, the better!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Ok last bump I promise. If you can make it, that would be great!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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Well done Aaron and co! It was great seeing Vic after so long after the old West Coast Pimp days.
Let's hope things move along a little faster with respect to the quarry. It's clear that the bottle neck isn't in Auburn.
I'm kinda bummed that there was a pathetic turn out from Auburn locals (even after I told many of them).
Please let us know if Jenn and I can help in any way.
Steve Montesanto
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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Thanks for coming Steve. I was also a little disappointed by the turn out, but have come to expect it. Most climbers like to talk about fighting the good fight, my dog isn't the one, and I do everything I can to help, but the reality is that a very small minority of climbers out the actually care enough to do something. I'm glad to see you are one of them!
Sorry for us kind of bailing out of there right after the meeting. We went upstairs to a conference room to strategize next steps. We all agree with your assessment. We got a very positive response from the City Council and it looks like a formality next meeting to get the official endorsement.
This should really help put some pressure on the SRA for sure. In addition, we are getting close to our proposed Interim Climbing plan which can be leveraged by the SRA to allow climbing until the General Plan is done.
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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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Apr 14, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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Thanks guys, sorry I couldnt make the meeting, damn work. But I really do appreciate you guys' work trying to get Auburn reopened, keep us updated.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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Thanks for your efforts- I do not think most people have any idea of the potential of the area. Great area for moutain biking too.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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I agree MrT. If people knew what Auburn "could be" they would be a little more excited about the possibility of getting it open, though I don't know if it would do much related to getting people to show up and support events that ultimately could lead to access being restored. Sorry, I have been at this a long time and getting a little pessimistic, but the good news is there was nothing but good news from the City Council meeting. So Yeah!
There is a AR Cleanup on Sat April 25th that CRAGS is participating in with other local clubs. We plan on cleaning up areas near the confluence including potentially some of the quarry (or least that's what I am hoping to do! :)
Saturday, April 25 8am to 1pm
Meet at the old Auburn-Foresthill curved bridge near the Confluence 3 miles below Auburn near the Highway 49 American River crossing.
Check in at the Protect American River Canyons information booth to register and receive your free map of the American River Confluence Parkway, trash collection bags water and snacks. Historic Bridges of the Confluence hike @ 11:30 am. Wear sturdy shoes, Bring gloves, and a lunch.
For more information contact the Auburn State Recreation Area office @ 530-885-4527 or PARC @ 530-885-8878.
Sponsored by the California State Parks Foundation, Auburn State Recreation Area, Protect American River Canyons, ASRA Canyon Keepers, and Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento.
A very special thanks to clean-up donors, Keep California Beautiful, Auburn Placer Disposal, CHP, PG&E, Raley’s Markets, Grocery Outlet and the Auburn Journal and Auburn Sentinel.
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 14, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
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Thanks Crags board of directors!!
You gave a very professional, effective presentation.
The talk about getting this done before the end of the recession to help the business owners was great. The Auburn council will be a great ally to push the state to action.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
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Thanks Fet. Sorry I didn't get a chance to meet you. I was very happy with how the presentation turned out though I wish we had a little more time. By the time I got up there, I had about 1 minute to cover 5 mins worth of material. Oh well :)
Overall I think this means very positive things for access at Auburn!
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Godsclimber87
Sport climber
Citrus Heights, CA
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Nov 16, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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I know that there was a meeting about Auburn SRA, Auburn Quarry earlier this year I think it was, but I was just wondering if there were any more recent developments?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
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CRAGS will be meeting with the SRA tomorrow to review the proposed interim climbing plan and promote the allowing climbing access in the interim while the GP is finished for the entire SRA by mapping to the already existing Rock Climbing Policy for State Park Units.
I'll try to send out an update on how it went as soon as I can.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 16, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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Sweet!!!
Wheels a turnin...
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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A quick summary of how it went (from Brian's notes):
Brian P. (chairman and local attorney extraordinaire - my words not his :) met with Mike Lynch, Superintendent and Jim Michaels, lead planner for the Auburn State recreation Area (ASRA) to discuss climbing access and the potential for lifting the climbing ban in the ASRA. Overall, he felt like the meeting went well. Both Mike and Jim affirmed that climbing should be recognized and allowed in the Park. Because of a unique relationship with the Federal Bureau of Reclamation (BOR), however, ASRA is not willing to unilaterally lift the climbing ban, without the approval of BOR. Both men affirmed the possibility that with BOR’s consent, they would be willing to begin the process for lifting the climbing ban. Consequently, CRAGS will be working on setting up a meeting with BOR officials to discuss this matter. We think today’s meeting was a step in the right direction, even if a small one.
While note the "haymaker" ban lift, it is heading in the right direction and I feel we have more momentum then we have ever had in the past. The verbal acceptance of allowing climbing again is a 1st from the ASRA. Now we just need to get the BoRec on board!
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Nov 18, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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Thanks you much for your continued work on getting access!!
Erik
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 18, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Jesus, what a whirlwind clusterfukk of bureaucratic bullsh#t. Just goes to further show there isn't anyone anywhere in any state or federal government job who is willing to actually make a decision about anything without the full ability to blame someone else should something not go in their favor.
Sounds like the ASRA is a quite incompetent organization. What's their purpose anyway? A waste of taxpayers money IMO. As for the BOR, now I know their a disorganized, incompetent waste of federal tax dollars. I hope CRAGS has some tricks up their sleeves to force the BOR into a corner, or y'all ain't getting nowhere with them.
Great work CRAGS!!!
I know it doesn't seem like there's an overwhelming amount of enthusiasm pouring from the climbing community in support of these efforts. I think everyone stopped holding their breath a while ago, especially as this is an area few people know about let alone have climbed at. But there sure is a lot of buzz and chatter going on behind the scenes. I think a little increased exposure for the efforts wouldn't hurt. Ya know, beyond the Internet forums.
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Godsclimber87
Sport climber
Citrus Heights, CA
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Mar 27, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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So any new developments?
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Dec 25, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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I would like to ask the same question: Any new developments? I recently had a conversation with Mike Lynch (Superintendent of the Auburn State Recreation Area) and he said the planning process is on a possible permanent hold. He told me that the decision to reopen Auburn Quarry to climbing is now in Bureau of Reclamation's hands. He told me that Crags had a meeting with BOR recently but I don't know what came out of the meeting. I recently sent an email to one of the members of the CRAGS board but, so far, have heard nothing. I would like to help the cause and would like someone who is familiar with the latest info regarding this issue to contact me. Thanks, John Robinson, johnr9q@yahoo.com
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ShibbyShane
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Bump. Didn't know Auburn quarry had the potential for 200-300 routes! I guess I haven't really been very far in there though.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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200-300 may be a bit much but there is certainly potential for more good climbing
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Godsclimber87
Sport climber
Citrus Heights, CA
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Apr 19, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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It has been over a year since my last post, so I was just wondering again if any progress has been made on Auburn Quarry and BOR or whatever they are called?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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anything?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 19, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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Are you kidding?
We're talking about working with the Bureau of Reclamation here, a dysfunctional, mismanaged and under funded waste of tax dollars. Nothing will ever just "get done" with this waste of an organization.
On the other foot we have the ASRA management. A savvy crack squad of highly motivated personnel I'm sure. They're probably working with a skeleton budget and the last thing they need or want to be doing is encouraging people to use "their" land. Besides, with their pathetic budget I doubt they have any means to enforce such a ban anyway. California's broke and getting broker every day. Until that changes I doubt any progress on the issue will be made.
Anyway, like I say, I doubt their is anyone around to enforce a ban and I know people have been climbing there for the past year or two quite regularly with no problems. You make the call.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 10, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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I got an email from The Access Fund....
http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=12103565
The meat of the link...
//The park managers have now agreed to allow rock climbing at the Quarry, but due to budget cuts the park will require CRAGS to establish and maintain basic services there.
//
It sounds like the park will only be open on weekends and holidays, but I'm not sure how that will work.
They need a measly $9,200 to get 'er done.
I'll pitch in $50.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Aug 10, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
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Auburn is pretty sick for a local crag. Worth supporting.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Anyway, like I say, I doubt their is anyone around to enforce a ban and I know people have been climbing there for the past year or two quite regularly with no problems. You make the call.
Interesting... we have a similar deal going on down south, I don't wish to be specific.
If you want to climb there just go climb there and take your lumps if you get rousted. Don't hold back on account of delicate negotiations. There aren't any.
DMT
I have the same feelings to.
The place I am referring to is so forgotten that the "NO No No No No NO" signs have weathered away.... haven't been replaced, in two years.
The "save the deal" committee isn't doing squat and has not done anything in like 5 years, except put out some FORUM posts.
So whats a climber to do????
Anyway it a good thing that you folks might get one of your spots back.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 11, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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There's already a porta potty on the trail by the river.
I think it's a small price to pay. Make sure any new excrement and trash is taken care of no big deal.
It's seems kind of unfair, but the state recreation area is already hurting for cash. You will now have to buy a parking pass to park along any of the roads down there or get a ticket. So it's not just climbers that are having to start paying.
It's better to pay now and get climbing legal. Then it will be harder to ban again in the future even if they can't raise the money every year.
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bp
Trad climber
Placerville, Ca
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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All,
I have been involved in the negotiations with the Auburn State Recreation Area and the Bureau of Reclamation to reopen the Quarry. I would like to share some thoughts.
First, thanks for your patience. Since forming CRAGS in 2008, we have worked really hard to get this place reopened. It has not been easy, and it has taken way longer than we hoped. I personally spent probably hundreds of hours doing research; drafting letters; making phone calls; meting with attorneys, the Access Fund, and community leaders; meeting with the ASRA and the BOR; reviewing, drafting, and redrafting the agreement; and driving - lots of driving. I don't say that to pat myself on the back, but rather, to explain why it has taken so long. Again, thanks for your patience.
Second, the negotiated agreement we have with the BOR and ASRA is not perfect, and by no means is it the solution we have hoped for all these years. Additionally, it still has to be signed by the state parks headquarters office, but all indications look like that will happen.
Third, I share the sentiment of frustration expressed over the fact that there was never a legitimate reason for the ban in the first place. I also understand, and anticipated, the frustration over climbers having to pay for services that many climbers don't want, and/or don't feel are necessary. I understand the feeling that climbers are being singled out or treated unfairly compared to other user groups. I dislike, as much as anyone else, the fact that climbing will be allowed only on weekends and holidays. And I, perhaps more than most, share the concern that climbing access is now conditioned upon meeting commitments that will require a lot of volunteer and donation support.
These are legitimate concerns, and i share them.
And while I realize that nothing I can say on this forum will put all of these concerns to rest, I offer the following:
First, the agreement is for a one-year term. The long-term goal of both CRAGS and the land managers, is to have the land managers take over all responsibilities in the Quarry, but if and when this will really happen is anyone's guess. At a minimum, the ASRA must complete the update to its general management plan that it begun many years ago, and that depends on funding, among other things. Although we don't particularly like being in the business of providing waste services, we are prepared to be in this for the long run.
Second, providing garbage and toilet services in the Quarry (notwithstanding that there are already garbage cans and toilets along the river on the approach trail) was an absolute tenet of the negotiated agreement that the ASRA and BOR would not back off of. Simply put, if there was going to be a deal, it absolutely had to include those services. The land managers were convinced (and probably rightly so) that climbers would not walk down from the Quarry to use these facilities once they were up there and climbing.
Third, although we tried very hard, they would not agree to reopen the Quarry more than on weekends and holidays. It's difficult for me to explain, but I believe the land managers are just very naive about climbing, and frankly, very nervous. They want to proceed slowly by feeling it out as they go. I am confident that if all goes well initially, we may be able to convince them to extend the days of operation. To that end, we built in a mandatory evaluation at the end of two, and six months of the agreement in order to reopen discussions on this and other issues. Let's keep our fingers crossed.
Fourth, the agreement is going to require a lot of volunteer help. While there are a few locals that have expressed the desire to help out, we really need those that want to climb here to step up and participate, either by volunteering their time or money.
Again, I know this is not the ideal solution, but after almost ten years, we felt like something was better than nothing.
Brian Poulsen
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all in jim
climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Brian -
Thanks so much for all your work on this! I look forward to the days when climbing there will be simpler again. It will hopefully happen if we keep pushing for it.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 13, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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Lots of thanks Brian. Crags has been working hard on this for years now and it is really appreciated.
I understand that compromises have to made and something is far far better that nothing in terms of legal access.
I agree with the approach of crags, get it legal and then work from there for more days, and less direct support from climbers.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Given the length of the ban and the ASRAs unwillingness to make any progress over MANY years of intense effort, this is, and most likely will be, our only chance of getting this place open legally. The time to open the doors, even if only partially, and slowly build the trust to lead to an open access situation is now or never. I told Brian during this development that we need to keep the momentum. With budgets/budget cuts, personnel changes, and SRA issues, who knows if tomorrow would bring a new manager and reset the whole thing back to Ban status? Counting on failure of enforcement is not an option nor a smart move, ever.
As for the, "I still climb here illegally therefore I don't like this" sentiment, I told Brian and the rest of CRAGS that this would surface quickly. Yes, it is known by the SRA that people continue to climb here under the radar. This was a fact that had to be mitigated to the ASRA not put us in any better position to get it re-opened. So pat yourself on the back if you would like, but the reality is poachers were a hurdle and part of the reason why this deal took so long.
We are moving into a 2 month trial period, climbers as a whole need to put on our bestest smiley faces and show the ASRA that climbers are the ideal user group. Whether you like it or not, if climbing fails legally, you can bet your @$$ that the enforcement of the "resumed" climbing ban will be intense.
To Recap:
Yes, we are being singled out.
Yes, we are being put under unfair and unequitable conditions compared to other user groups.
Yes, the toilets are mostly for other user groups, though honestly I have seen many climbers scratching holes, so it can't hurt to have it there.
Yes, the risk of once you pay, you always will is there.
But the bottom line is starting in a few weeks you will be able to legally walk into the quarry and climb. Its been since April 15, 2003 since you could say that:
------------- STATE OF CALIFORNIA
DEPARTMENT OF PARKS AND RECREATION
GOLD FIELDS DISTRICT
AUBURN SECTOR
ORDER NO. 03-691-02
April 15, 2003
Technical climbing is prohibited on any geological feature within the Auburn State Recreation Area. Technical climbing is defined as climbing up or down a geological feature using some type of apparatus to assist with the accent or decent. Apparatus includes, but is not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, active or passive protection, (cams, nuts, etc.), carabineers, chains, and/or harnesses.
Exceptions to this order may only be granted in writing by the District Superintendent, Gold Fields District, 7806 Folsom-Auburn Road, Folsom, CA 95630.
Nothing herein shall be construed in derogation of other provisions of law.
Jacqueline Ball (signature)
JACQUELINE BALL
District Superintendent
AUTHORITY:
State of California; Public Resources Code , Section 5003 and 5008.
California Code of Regulations, Title 14, Division 3, sections 4307, 4319, & 4326.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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We are getting there guys. Instead of TALKING about access, let's all step up and do something as easy as donating a few bucks. No amount is too small. Hit the submit button, pat yourself on the back and know that you just didn't talk about climbing access, you really DID SOMETHING ABOUT IT.
http://tinyurl.com/9rw94j5
Open Auburn Quarry
We need your help to open Auburn Quarry outside of Sacramento, CA!
Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento (CRAGS) and the Access Fund are excited to announce the successful negotiation of an agreement with California’s Auburn State Recreation Area to lift a 9-year ban on rock climbing at the Cave Valley Climbing Area (the “Auburn Quarry”).
Climbing access is now contingent on CRAGS providing critical services in the area to offset climber impacts. CRAGS and the Access Fund are working to raise $9,520 to provide these services and restore climbing access early next month! Please make a tax-deductible contribution today!
I'm already into the Quarry for thousands related to development and I just donated another $200. You can probably find a $10/$20 spot in your couch if you look hard enough.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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OK guys we are getting there. Under $2K to go. Even if you don't live in this area, chances are if you live in California at some point you will find yourself in the greater Sacramento area and only have a single day to get out and climb with limited gear. Auburn is less than 40 miles from downtown, has an awesome river to swim in right by the climbing, and has cool hikes / geological features to check out.
**
Link to donate @ Accessfund**
http://tinyurl.com/9rw94j5
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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Just donated a c-note........
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks! I saw your old post about having a specific line in mind for development. I am really looking forward to resuming development as well as getting other local developers excited about the area. There is SO MUCH potential out here! This could easily be the top sport climbing destination on the west side of the Sierras for Northern California without even coming close to its potential.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Nick work Roughster!
I'm in.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 21, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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A certain exiled, ex cop, just mentioned to me that he paid the last $500!
I gotta go there sometime.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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Sweet, I'm in for a few bucks.
Well, I guess a victory under strict negotiated terms is better than total failure. Been a long time coming, congrats to those who have worked so hard.
Aaron, I know this place is like your long lost baby, the crown and jewel for a motivated developer. I'm stoked for you!
I'm sure I'll see you out there, just save something for me. I'd like to put maybe one route up out there, perhaps a punishing difficult slab route that no one will ever climb. That's about right up my alley ;)
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2012 - 10:18am PT
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Thanks Chad! Plenty of potential to go around. I would think that difficult slab routes would get traffic provided protection is reasonable. And there is definitely potential for that type of route, along with many more including multipitch.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Jaybro,
Please tell Fattrad thank you from CRAGS, me, and the rest of the Sac/Bay Area Climbers!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 22, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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I'll bet he saw this before I did. But I'll mention it to him.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Donated
Moving to Auburn in the near future!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Woot! Thanks Lab! Given your screen name I would bet we have a lot more in common than just Auburn ;) Hopefully the thermometer will update soon and we can see where we are at. I can tell you that the CRAGS BOD is starting to work on purchases, signage, and supporting materials to get everything in place for opening within the next few weeks!
Also as an update and note: As Brian mentioned earlier in this thread, we will be looking for people to become "official" volunteers when they can to help meet the ASRA commitments. We will share more information soon about what that would entail and what it means for the area. Nothing too crazy, about a 4 hour commitment on the day(s) of your choosing that will put you in the Quarry.
Thanks again to all that have contributed so far! Even if we have reached our goal, which we haven't been able to confirm yet, I can tell you that CRAGS puts 100% of any donated $$ back into access issue impacting NorCal climbers. Once Auburn is open, we will be looking for other local areas that need access help and putting our focus on what gives NorCal climbers the biggest bang for their $.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Aug 22, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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30 Minute drive up the hill, ahhh.
Any chance there'll be a clean up soon? Or route cleaning?
I have a bone to pick with some dihedral that spit a basketball size rock at me, almost killing me.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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You found loose rock in a quarry? Weird!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 22, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Haha!
Yeah, when standing in the piles of talus below, looking up, it all looks so solid. Hard to believe there's anything loose around them parts ;)
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Hey Guys! It is confirmed that we have reached our goal for raising funds to get Auburn open, WOOHOO!! Awesome job and huge thanks to everyone involved with the access fight and/or who donated money!
The CRAGS bod will be meeting soon where we will try to lay out the plan for the reopening. I'll post up the info as soon as it is available.
Once again, HUGE thanks to the NorCal Climbing Community coming through as well as the Access Fund for the grant and assistance with this process. I also want to recognize Brian Poulsen and Ellen Trecott for their efforts over the last 5 years. I will be the 1st to admit I was running out steam and hope, and first Brian, then Ellen really stepped up and helped carry this fight on. The rest of the CRAGS BoD also put a ton of time into this and should be recognized.
So! Here's to spending more quality time in the Quarry and enjoying a great local crag!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Aug 24, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Great news!
I remember enjoying the area and being impressed with the potential of some of the walls.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 24, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Very cool.
Congrats.
Hope to get over there some time.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 24, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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A big thanks to everyone who helped. Especially those at Crags that did SO much.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=12155425
(Many of you will get an email today from the AF concerning the above.)
Unbelievable! Thank you to everyone who stepped up and donated $ to help CRAGS cover the trash, toilet, signage, & agreement costs. While it is not a 100% open kind of thing (climbing only on Friday, Saturday, Sundays, and Holidays), it is the first step to restoring complete access.
This issue started a long time ago for me, over a decade ago. I have experienced the full gambit of emotions over the years, sometimes optimistic, sometimes pessimistic related to our chances of getting this place back opened. As of today, the emotion is pure satisfaction.
While the Quarry isn't a world class destination, it does have a lot to offer, tons of potential, and is very close to the Greater Sacramento Area. This is a huge victory for climbers in general too as it sets a great precedent for other state park units that have previously closed their doors to climbing and now can see a workable pathway to reopening climbing in their park.
I wrote a piece a few years ago about Auburn for the AF Newsletter (Winter 2008). I'll finish my thoughts off with a quote I provided about Auburn which ultimately became the lead off quote for the article "Backyard Crags":
“A ROCK PILE CEASES TO BE A ROCK PILE THE MOMENT A SINGLE MAN CONTEMPLATES
IT, BEARING WITHIN HIM THE IMAGE OF A CATHEDRAL.”
~ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY, FLIGHT TO ARRAS, 1942
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Aug 29, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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What date does the new route free-for-all start?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Friday Sept 7th :) I am going to start with maintenance 1st though. I know the Memorial and Scale walls needs some work. After that I'll look at putting in some new stuff :)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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Roughster can you post your article? I never got saw it or got a chance to read it previously.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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Sweet! Been a long time coming.
Rough, what kind of bolts (length, diameter, material etc...) have you found to work best out there. Maybe I'll buy a box or two to help out with some maintenance to get everything in working order and save a few just in case something catches my eye ;)
I think the first major route to go up there should be called, "Images of a Cathedral". Appropriate me thinks.
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 30, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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I am stoked about this! Close to work for me...
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Sep 24, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Went out there yesterday....didn't see another climber....WTF
had a great time though.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 10:27am PT
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Hello!
We ran into a few problems at the end of the process but it can now be said, Auburn if officially open as of Friday! Woot!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Sep 27, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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Ummm, does that mean I was poaching last Sunday?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Not really, it was more of a technicality that all signatures were not there and the permit wasn't "officially" issued. The agreement was clear and path forward was clerical. It's all good :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Sep 27, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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Really nice job!!!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Sep 27, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Damn, I'm going to miss the kickoff Sat night at the outdoor center....and I live like 200 yards away from it!
See you at the crag Aaron!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Sep 28, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Nice work! Looking forward to going there again.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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ahhh man!
It sure was muddy.. ;)
not a bad place, some cool looking rock fer sure, and as usual, all the cool looking rock was at least 20 ft off the ground.
I'll say, never thought to use off toes crack technique acquired in granite, here in a quarry
Never climbed on this kind of thing, nor expected to find crack...how fun.
Especially when I remember the flask...mmmmm!
Cheers
LS
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Was out there yesterday (Friday) and a group of climbers, maybe 15, were looking like they were having fun on the lower wall. The trail is now improved from the lower area (Scale and Memorial walls) to the higher area (Wreckage Wall etc) Steps were added. So go out and enjoy. Need to improve some of the top anchors especially on the scale wall. When my back heals, I will go there and add some better bolts with Mussy hooks at the top.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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I have a stash of bolts and mussy hooks to contribute. My Fridays are also free to anyone who wants to climb and/or replace said anchors. I've already added a few mussy where ones didn't exist before.
Steve Montesanto
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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This is great! Hope to get up there at some point.
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acmissteen
climber
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Mar 19, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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For everyone who wants to keep Auburn open, CRAGS (the org that keeps it going) needs your help:
http://norcalcrags.org/auburn/
WHY? For the time being, CRAGS’s permit to keep the quarry open is conditional and requires that CRAGS provide “volunteers” who are present to supervise, climb, remind people that the quarry closes at sundown, and report dangerous activity.
If you were planning on climbing at the quarry one of these weekends, please consider signing up as a volunteer for CRAGS. If we do not have volunteers like you, we will lose our permit to climb at Auburn!
HOW YOU CAN HELP: Please spread the word that we need help. If you already climb at Auburn anyway, being a volunteer is as simple as climbing and keeping an eye out, then emailing the coordinator after you get home. note – you can climb while you volunteer!
http://norcalcrags.org/auburn/
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