Overhang Overpass- bar dips and a hangover


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Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 10, 2009 - 09:20am PT

Thanks for adding to the legend and the mystery of Chuck Ostin. You knew him in the flatlands and saw his roots on the farm; that means a lot and adds dimension.

Glad you mentioned the night descents. They were so typical too, what with all the coffee hang time and leisurely starts and big party mass assaults.

Never a light in the whole party. It was like he was teaching us to epic, too, not freak out but just -- as got said for us in Apollo 13 -- "work the problem, gentlemen."

That's some of the darkest talus anywhere, that side of the Valley. Rock dark to begin with, add darker lichen and once you get out of the gullies where it might get easier you're on a north slope further shaded by oaks and the blocks get bigger and all you can do is crab walk feet first feeling for the dropoffs. Sometimes it would be way, way too late for the Four Seasons.

North Dome Gully was far easier with whiter sand and bleached slabs reflecting starlight and somehow the long slides possible down there were mercifully obscured.

Chuck was like a minor angel, maybe lonely but also full of self-sufficiency and kindness and showed a lot of us parts of the way toward being climbers.

East of Seattle
Apr 10, 2009 - 11:05am PT
Excellent! To the best of the Taco.


Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 10, 2009 - 11:22am PT
Nice story, Jim, thanks for that!


Trad climber
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
this read got my hands sweating, even though that climb will likely never see me, I got to go look at it now, with these stories swiming in my head.

Thank you, thank you, thank you, all.

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Apr 17, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
Were you L-sitting the bar dips ?

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Feb 8, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
Bump for great climbing tail.
Jim, any story to tell us about FA of Leanie Meanie and Anticipation on Arch Rock with Mark?

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Bump for Coz.
The Larry

Moab, UT
Jan 31, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Thanks Jim. I missed this one the first time around too. Great story, great comments.

Jan 31, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
GUD bump

Jan 31, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
This thread has it all. Could use a few more photos, someone shake Phil Bard awake and then it will be complete. Wow, good stuff.
old toad

Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
Jan 31, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Great post! And a climbing post!! I went up to do this with Don Reid in the early 80's. I led the first pitch (5.9 not) with some effort and Don proceeded to fire the 5.11d second with what looked like ease. I thought just like you that after the bulge it went back into a high angle ramp. Boy was I mistaken, dead vertical and off fingers as well! I just made the belay totally pumped. I don't think I could have climbed another two feet. Never forget that day with Don, the master of the thin crack.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 10:27am PT
Old geezer story as per instructed. Hell, nobody would climb if they couldn't talk about. I may revisit this puppy this spring fully armed with cams.

Reminds me of Charlie.

Mar 22, 2014 - 11:03am PT
Great story Mr. Donini. Thats the stuff keeps me coming back.

Per Mr. Aments' post:
I knew Dr. F back in the 70's and saw him do multiple one finger one arms off of webbing with both arms after I asked him to show me. He had complete control and I have never seen anything like it since. I don't know how many he did, I couldn't fathom it. He dropped down and asked me "is that enough?" Blew me away.

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Mar 22, 2014 - 11:58am PT
Credit: Walleye

Mar 22, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
Thanks for bumping this Jim. If never seen it, what a great thread. So many awesome testimonials here. Great vision & I was laughing at this paragraph for sure:

Bulging with new muscle (thanks to the bar dips) I climbed to the fixed bong and surmounted the bulge with something approximating ease only to encounter the REAL problem. There I was 10 feet above the bong staring up at a seemingly endless, parallel sided, vertical, off fingers crack. Was I bold- no, dumb- yes, but not so much so that I didnt immediately realize that there was no way I could possibly hold on with rattly fingers and at the same time manipulate a nut into a useful placement in a parallel sided crack. Where were the cams I needed? Oh, I remember, about five years in the future.

Solid gold.

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
Great thread, so many voices creating a collective memory! Walter, great photo.

Bad Climber

Mar 23, 2014 - 09:25am PT
Let's keep this one floating a bit. Does, however, shock me a bit to see one of these older thread surface and see a Bachar post.

Way to go, Jim.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 23, 2014 - 10:49am PT
This thread is real family fun, isn't it?

Enforced clean climbing, gotta love it.

And DR's accurate description of late-starting parties who pay the price, that's priceless.

Nice photo, Walleye.

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Mar 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
You said you had the right equipment, but it was '74 so you must have been missing the belay (a blue camalot!!!!)

Great story.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 23, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Glory Days of the Seventies.
Glory Days of the Seventies.
Credit: GI

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