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This thread has been locked |
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 08:08pm PT
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"afraid" to actually read the thread, apparently
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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are yu thinking there is a bad Yosemite 5.12? hahaha at my own joke. LP
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Tales of Power is "THE" classic 5.12 to do. Plus you get the bonus offwidth finish.
Crimson cringe is also stellar...
And for the record, cookie monster was done ground up, no dogging, and i placed both pins on the lead.. sucks the bolts are there because it is no harder to protect or sketchier than crack a go go...
ks
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Gosh Kurt, are you joshin' or trying to troll us? Do I need to repost Werner's version of how the pins got there? It's one thing to tell tales of livin' large but FA ethics are another story.
Tales of Power is reputed to be a great 5.12 for folks with pretty small hands. I've heard of petite women walking it. Of course, maybe it's not 5.12 then but that's another argument.
Peace
Karl
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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i stand by my post and my pins...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I have small hands and thought it was stellar
Pins?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Kurt and Werner's stories on this one don't match up.
I'll reserve judgement because, hey, I wasn't there. The forum search function doesn't work well enough at this time to dredge up Werner's story posted here in the past.
I'll bump the thread when it's fixed and ya'll can work out any differences (unless Werner would like to share again)
peace
Karl
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 11, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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Hate to stir up smack but it would be great to have a consensus on the history here.
Here's what Werner posted about the FA here
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=19928&msg=20129#msg20129
"To all you obsessive folks with your bolt problems;
Dave Shultz first bolted it...ask him why, not me. For your info Kurt Smith almost died trying this route on the first ascent. He had his friend aid it with pitons and nuts and cams. (Friend was very inexperienced with placing pitons) At the crux he placed two Lost arrows. When Kurt tried to lead it he fell at this crux. As I was lowering him the pins shifted and if they had come out he would have hit the deck.(they came out by hand). The consciousness at the time was not about bolts or pins or clean but in doing this line free. The rock is fairly crumbly in various places and several KEY holds have broken in the past years making some of the moves harder. Nuts and cams can rip out easily on this cimb and you know the scenario that can result. Most of you haven't seen enough of the people we've picked up at the base after one of these hit the deck missions. Get a life folks and go climbing stop worrying about all this bolt sh#t. Werner Braun"
peace
Karl
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Nate Furman
climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 14, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
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bump
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Dec 15, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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Wow and I thought that I dug for old posts but 5 years wow.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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This is one of the more amusing reads I have had in a while. Back on the first page FS had the best suggestion: Twilight Zone. Please Mr. SuperStar, tell us when you will be here to do it so we can all gather around with popcorn and watch a real 5.12 climber cry.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:53am PT
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I always loved "The Crimson Cringe," Beautiful thing it is!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Oct 10, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
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Doesn't seem like there was any resolution to the discrepancy over the origin of the bolts on Cookie Monster.... Just curious if anything ever came of this and what the real (true) history is? Karl? Werner?
Also, was pretty psyched to see someone else who sees Fish Crack as .11c/d (either hard.11c or maybe softer .11d) it really is. It's just not .12a.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 10, 2008 - 07:25pm PT
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The first pitch of Hotline is fully awesome. The next few pitches aren't bad either. In fact, the second pitch is probably the best 2" hand crack in the whole Valley.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 10, 2008 - 07:54pm PT
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"Doesn't seem like there was any resolution to the discrepancy over the origin of the bolts on Cookie Monster.... Just curious if anything ever came of this and what the real (true) history is? Karl? Werner? "
I only know what I read. Werner may know. Kurt has stated his case.
PEace
Karl
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Oct 10, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
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Thanks, Karl. Just curious if this ended up being discussed somewhere else and I missed it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 10, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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'Tales', you win!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 24, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
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Bump. Reading this something like 8 years after the fact, I'd lay even money that the OP was Mike Anderson and he wasn't trolling.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Bump, interesting read after 16 years.
I'd lay even money that the OP was Mike Anderson and he wasn't trolling. I am reading now Mike Anderson's "Rock climbing manual" why do you think that he is OP Super-Star?
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Will is long gone from Supertopo.
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