Idyllwild Appreciation thread

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 242 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 02:58am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:06am PT


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:20am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:24am PT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:58am PT
nice!

anyone going to be on it in April?


gotta get back

dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:28am PT
Depends if I have a job or not, if I do then no. If I don't then yes. Will keep you informed I would love to spend a week or so there. (Lots of memories)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:45am PT
no doubt a week would be about right. same here, if job, then prolly not, if not, they prolly so.

i need to do some basics I haven't done...

White Maidens

Traitor Horn

the list goes on...

a repost of an old one of me... sorry they are big but next one down was only so so


i don't think this is me, so we'll say unidentified...


scanner is working again.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 09:30am PT

Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Mar 3, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
So, who did the second assent of Muir Trail ? Not both of those 'dime' guys ?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 3, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
you're on Mike



Gordo, which route is that crack? Hernia?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Mar 3, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Bart -

Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, and a bird.
froodish

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
@Mungeclimber
> Gordo, which route is that crack? Hernia?

Looks like _The Shadow_ (5.8, just right of the Rebolting face).
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
Next time I’m up there I'm going to try and get some good photos of The Edge. That thing is defiantly aesthetic, especially with Suicide in the back ground. It seems like you could get some really good angles of the that climb while rapping the green arch. I’d like to climb it too!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
The Edge - better yet the Turbo Flange (5.11a/b, follows the edge from the ground up instead of traversing in the 80 foot level), is possibly the last word in Tahquitz climbing. What with new wave sticky shoes and vastly better skillz, I'd have figured the modern climber would be all over this route, done over 30 years ago.

Go figure why it remains so unpopular.

JL
GDavis

Trad climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Its the number of climbers, not the percentage. There are just as many crazy sons of bitches now that there were before, but a lot more people who don't get their jollies that far above bolts. As cutting edge as Turbo Flange is, the 5.14 R/X climber isn't going to travel all the way out to Tahquitz to prove himself on it, that won't get his face on the mah-guh-zine.

The guys who respect the route and aspire to attain its lofty heights? Not the kind that self promote, I would think. No small wonder we don't hear of it...
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 3, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Largo,

On a fine day about 12 years ago Mark Wagner was on a tear and led both pitches of the Flange. Ian Katz and I tagged along for the ride. It was a hot day, less than optimal for that route (which was my excuse for not doing some of the leading) and Mark was fully desperate at the bulge getting to Sorensons famous bolt way up there. I was belaying, watching his feet sketching as he fought for it. I was genuinely concerned but he did it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 3, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
Froodish, kewl thx.


another of our unidentified blue lycra clad lady (sans noose)


intrepid leader taking photos

guided trip back then???

just random photos we were taking of climbers then.



edit - routes in this area are Nawab and Spatula and I think a third.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 3, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
You never know what you might find there.

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 3, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
Gdavis raises an interesting point. Tahquitz and Suicide have fallen out of flavor with the 5.14RX crowd, but this all happened in the strangest way.

At most "old" areas, the antique testpieces are eventually dashed up by everyone with a harness, then the place slowly fades into oblivion. Funny thing about Idyllwild is that the hardest routes at both areas have never seen much traffic. Routes like The Untickable, Hades, Someone You're Not, Calente, The Hangover, etc. might have equivocal ratings since they have so rarely been climbed. Seems folks moved on before actually mastering the local fare.

I'll bet those hard Hensel routes are done once a year or not at all. Weird. . .

JL
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Mar 3, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
Don't forget all the great bouldering in the area



















Messages 81 - 100 of total 242 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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