Discussion Topic |
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 27, 2009 - 02:00am PT
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What a place to appreciate. Major historical significance, great rock, and a beautiful location make Idyllwild one of my favorite places to go climb. The Vampire is one of my all time favorite routes. Insomnia is probebly the cleanest splitter I’ve climbed in Socal. The Open Book is the first multi pitch route I’ve ever done; I’ll never forget that awesome corner. And the Green Arch is the most humbling 5.11 I’ve ever been on. Paisano overhang and The Pirate will offer great future challanges. This place has inspired me since day one and it'll contiue to inspire for the future.
Let’s hear your stories and see some photos.
Darshan on Insomnia
Sundance
Sundance
Log ledge
Tahquitz
The Vampire
The Vampire
Darshan having a super fun time on The Mechanics route
Darshan on The Green Arch
Kia being crazy on Open Book
Me and Kia on the Open Book
Unknown climber on The Open Book
being happy
great sunsets
going home but feeling satisfied
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:14am PT
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now here's a new thread I can get behind...
Munge on Sunshine
Munge on dike finish
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MrGneissGuy
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:45am PT
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Great to see this! I just recently moved to SoCal from North Carolina, and Tahquitz has been keeping me sane!!! What a great piece of stone. I can't wait for next season...
The Vampire
Start of Dave's Deviation
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 27, 2009 - 09:27am PT
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Nice pictures Gobi!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2009 - 09:57am PT
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I love Tahquitz! Thanks for this great post!
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gly
Trad climber
Flatlands
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Feb 27, 2009 - 11:21am PT
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Nice pictures. I haven't climbed out there yet, but have always wanted to. Some friends and I are going to be in that area end of March/beginning of April. Curious what are the possibilities of climbing then? Most of what I have read says the real season kicks in in May. If its climbable, what would be some recommended routes that would be approachable?
Cheers.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Early April should be good depending on weather. Areas at Suicide rock like the Sunshine face and Buttress of cracks receive sun for most of the day. The southern end of Tahquitz gets sun at around 12 of 1. The approach to Tahquitz might be a little tough because of the snow.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 27, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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Thanks Gobi,
Great pics!!!
Many memories, it's been a long time.
Jeff
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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Living in San Diego, my wife and I did our honeymoon in Idyllwild (1980). Four days o' bliss! We hardly knew how to spend the $200 we had for the occasion. Talk about livin' large!
Previously posted:
Honeymoon shots at the parking lot:
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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Great pictures - definately inspires me to head down there (never been). One question though - is it mandatory to wear headphones whilst on lead?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Thanks for the great post and excellent pictures.
I can recall with joy what it felt like to sit on top of Lunch Rock (after that wonderful hike up!) and listen to the birds laughing as they flew and dived across that beautiful bald face of the Vampire.
How I envy those of you who could be climbing there now!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
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Master Tahquitz climber, Rick Accomazzo, Flying Circus, circa 1976.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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Nice John
Here's one for you: Paul on the Flakes?
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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BU-MMMMMM-PPPPP!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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That looks more like Super Pooper than The Flakes to me.
This one is called Iron Maiden.
Holden Harris got the shot as I recall...
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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people should resize those photos, this is a great thread but it's virtually unreadable as is...
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Great shot, JuanDeFuca!!
With such detail it says it all.
I can hear my pulse pounding in my ears and feel my hands begin to sweat.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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"I can hear my pulse pounding in my ears and feel my hands begin to sweat."
That's just the Viagra.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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"I can hear my pulse pounding in my ears and feel my hands begin to sweat."
wow.
what happens when you actually get on the rock...?
:-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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more pics...
unknown climber 80s (isn't it obvious by those pink Grahams?)
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40oz2freedom
Social climber
Between depths of despair & heights of folly
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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Had a few too many 40’s over the years and during a recent jaunt up Serpentine I was tripping the scales at 278 Lbs. Do I hold the record for the “Fattest” ascent? Guess I can't term that the FA cause that'd be confusing. Guess I'll stick with HPA for Heaviest Personal Ascent.
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Could we call these climbers "unidentified" rather than
"unknown" please?
With more pictures, of course.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
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Good times, good times!
Long Climb
Brother's friend Danny on his first climb, ever! White Maiden
Brother leading out
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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My third day of climbing ever was an intermediate rock course that took me and some other dude up White Maiden and I've been hooked ever since. 1977 I think.
I love Idyllwild! Been a few years though. I just wish I could get out there more often, like even once or twice a year. I am so glad I earned my face climbing chops at Suicide because it's helped me everwhere I've ever climbed.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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One of the best things about Idyllwild was that because it didn't have destination skiing, and it wasn't on a highway to other places, it didn't get built over in the '60s-'80s by ugly corporate resort condos. As last as the late 1980s-- before they uglified the downtown with that fort--it still really felt like a sort of mid-century California mountain town.
Tons of small, single-family cabins (plenty of them homemade), and real homey-feeling restaurants and bars.
Quality bouldering right in town. Trout fishing almost as close. View of Tahquitz from downtown. In a lot of places, even around town, you could almost imagine it was 1946 again.
One of my favorite places of all time.
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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And don't forget it's winter possibilities!
N. Face Tahquitz
Weeping Wall @ Suicide
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
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Hurrah for Idyllwild, I do miss it so.
Me (leading) and Chris Parker on the Flower, mid-80's
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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My favorite place to climb in SoCal. Really feels like you're in the mountains, and the climbing is awesome. Why don't I go there more often??????
Had some good times there.
Nice that the town has that "out of the way" feel.
Fletch
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Feb 27, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
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Hey 40oz... you're a funny guy
Nice on the Fattest Ascent. At 278 lbs on a face climb, that's got to count for something!
Fletch
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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How do you size down photos?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 27, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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Gobi, when you download to the web service you're using, you can usually select the size you want to save it as. I usually save them as 800x600.
At least that's how I do it with ImageShack.
Cool thread too! I've never been there but know it's a sweet location with quality rock. One of these days...
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 27, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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I plan to be back ropo soling Multipitch trad this spring.
Plans call for the Step and Superpooper.
Rock Exotica Soloist.
Juan
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Hmm. Note to self: don't hang out under Step and Super Pooper this spring...
Anyway, I'll bump this with another insomnia pic, 1994...
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apogee
climber
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Feb 27, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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Bump for pix of recent winter conditions (Valentine's Day) on Tahquitz
Vampire looks chilly!
Closer look at the Trough. Good training for the Eiger!
North face routes
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Copyright violation!!!
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tooth
Mountain climber
Guam
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Feb 28, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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Those winter pics are great!
I first saw the rock on a drive through Idyllwild to get somewhere else. I returned the next weekend and climbed there dozens of times since. The best days were when there was snow covering the first pitch of the climbs around whodunnit.
I had a couple really good climbing partners at the time who would go up every weekend with me and do laps up and down the rock.
Nothing better than finishing your week with a couple thousand vertical feet of granite crack!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 28, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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what's cool is that all the Taquitz cracks look kewl! I haven't even done 'em yet....keep rolling the pics.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 28, 2009 - 10:14am PT
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Idyllwild does contain some of the most compact granite anywhere.
Super high quality in some cases similar to portions of El Capitan.
Galloping about on a Suicide Rock classic, Flower of High Rank, circa 1984:
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 28, 2009 - 11:10am PT
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*MAGIC*
History, excellent rock, classic routes at all grades.
I ALMOST lost an Anasazi from the
"bologne slicer" belay on the Vampire.
That would not have been good.
Absolutely love Tahquitz.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Feb 28, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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Out at a local crag a few years ago a young climbing asked me what my favorite climbing place was. Having been to so many places I pondered it for a seconds. Then my son Ian piped up and said wouldn’t it be Suicide and Tahquitz Rock. I agreed pretty quick.
Today I think of what a great time I had there last year repeating routes I hadn’t done in years and even doing some new ones for the first time. Rekindling old friendships and climbing with a number of partners that go back over thirty years we all realized how much we appreciate Idyllwild.
Here’s a shot of Ian and Darrell on Erik Eriksson’s “Disco Jesus”
Man I can’t wait to get back up there this spring!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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I must agree with Graham 30 year of climbing. T&S is still best crag I have ever climbed at. With over 200 routes led I still never tire of climbing there.
Bruce
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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A couple more pictures to go along with the one John posted of the rarely done Tahquitz classic, Flying Circus. FA: Rick Accomazzo and Robs Muir.
Ricky "Rockamazzo" displays his typical go for it attitude while figuring out the free crux on the first pitch.
Robs finally decides to drill the first bolt on pitch two at the end of the "Muir Trail".
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mike said:
"Today I think of what a great time I had there last year repeating routes I hadn’t done in years and even doing some new ones for the first time. Rekindling old friendships and climbing with a number of partners that go back over thirty years we all realized how much we appreciate Idyllwild."
How true.
Mike repeating the historical New Generations last spring. (FA: Graham/Sorenson)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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"unidentified" climber ;) on Rebolting Development 11b R. Other climber on the Escalator Descent
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Arcy Farcy 10c... unidentified climber
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Weeping Wall, The classic 10 Karat Gold
Caliente's brother in arms, Someone You're Not
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Henny;
Graham said you have a good story about your FA of Someone You're Not.
Would you like to share?
Bruce
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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The Sunshine Buttress, Long's and Erickson's Voodoo Child
South Face of Suicide, Picante FA (aka, Dinosaur Rumble)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Two more, then no more thread bloat.
Eagle Pinnacle, The Untickable
And finally, it would be remiss to not post this picture. For those of us lucky enough to have climbed there on those magical late fall afternoons, or with this brilliant shooting star, this old black and white captures something that can't quite be put into words.
Tobin Sorenson on the FA of Season's End
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Love that shot! and that route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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solid Henny. pics are stellar.
thx for posting those up.
edit- especially the Robs shot. we should all have such a solid lead mindset.
there was rumor posts, as mentioned above, about that story.
would dig hearing about it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I'll consider. Glad the pics are liked.
The efforts put into the Flying Circus by both Robs and Ricky were quite impressive. I'm not sure how familiar some people are with the Muir Trail. The crux 10d moves are right at the end of the runout. There's a slight bulge and the rock is super polished as it's the runoff funnel for that part of the South Face. On the FA Robs popped just below that stance (I believe) and whistled past Ricky. He immediately went back out, went for it again, and did it.
That there is still only one known repeat says something for the route, and the guys that put it up.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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just looked at the book. ... shows a bolt starting off the belay, but unless that belay was a perfected dynamic belay, any new skoolers belaying would get tossed good if the leader biffed.
good stuff man!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there graham and all... say, nice pictures and info...
thanks for the share...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I'd be curious if anyone knows who originally named the Weeping Wall, or did it sort of grow organically from the water runoffs?
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Great pics everyone. Most of mine kinda suck in comparison, but here's a couple more:
Me following Todd Gordon up Open Book.
Pyro on Pirate Crack.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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A bolt was added to the Flying Circus belay on the second ascent. It's now a triangle configuration with the third bolt a couple of feet higher than the originals. I can tell you that it doesn't do anything to make the seriousness feel any less. It does however make it feel like you can afford to come off since you won't be putting that high fall factor straight onto the the lower two. The first ascent party concurred that it was acceptable.
I don't have a guide handy, but I think I remember that the topo makes the third belay bolt look like it's a protection bolt a ways above the belay. Probably due to the scale of the topo and a little ambiguity when providing update info prior to the guide being published. The additional bolt is part of the belay, so as I said, mentally it still feels like you're pretty much going to go straight onto the belay.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Check out the Edge arete in the picture of the Open Book. Pretty cool. I wish there were some good pictures around of people doing that.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Thanks for all the great photos Henny!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Earlier I failed to mention Gobi’s awesome shots of him and Darshan powering off some great climbs. Warms the heart to see the young enthusiasm out there.
Justthemaid, those are great shots! I love the smiles that the Open Book generates. Here is one of my son Ian in about the same spot as you on the Robbin’s classic.
I wish this next Shot of Robs Muir was in better condition but it was taken with an old instamatic type camera with no flash. The sun had gone down we were all at the base of the Sunshine Face, I believe all of the players from back then were there. It was Spring 1973
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Whoa... Check out that long haired hippie!
And those carabiners. He still has 'em. In fact, I think those are the same ones he tried to get us to use last year.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Someone Your Not...
One of the most impressive sends at T&S ever. So hard, the rating given (5.13a) is meaningless. In real terms, probably 5.14 something. No repeats ever.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Yea that thing looks tough. I think it's the hardest climb in the area.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Climbing "Alpine Style" on Serpentine ~1978, 5 or 6 on one rope.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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"Climbing "Alpine Style" on Serpentine ~1978, 5 or 6 on one rope..."
Nice! Like Whymper on the Matterhorn :-)
That route of Darryl's mentioned above is truly amazing. Those super hard routes add a lot to the place even if no one else but Hensel can do them...
And now for some more shameless spray
Photo Bruce Bourassa, August 1992.
As I recall, Sketchy was there that day, no?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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unidentified gal following Arcy Farcy same day
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nice. Is that rope tied around her neck? That is an Idyllwild tradition, right?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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thread bloat be damned, here's another pic...
unidentified bad ass working the moves on this hard arete. name of the route escapes me. I don't think there were bolts on it at this time. mid to late 80s???
I don't think the finger is mine.
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apogee
climber
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Looks like Blade Runner, right of Warm Up.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I think that's right Apogee. thx!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Munge;
That unidentified bad ass working the moves on this hard arête. Name of the route escapes me.
thats right, route is Blade runner. 5.12b FA (TR) Bob Gaines 1986 First lead Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs 1991.
Bruce.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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thx Dogtown. I wonder if that's Bob? Timing is about right.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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OK, Hensel. That's enough of the slander! BITD, we were all hippies (and proud of it). Though, I must admit there were a few of you still in diapers—not men enough to let your freak flags fly.
Need proof? Here's a shot of mine from Ten Karat Gold, with Big Al, Gunnar Swanson, and a young lady who was living in Idyllwild at the time. (Anyone remember her name?)
Just a little bit of tilt-foolery. You can straighten it yourself...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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'E' on 'The Pirate'. Eppi photo from an old BD catalog. Proud!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Good one there
You know Al is contemplating how far it is to the next bolt
ya bunch of hippies!
Hey, bet you could sell those old Alcoa biners on Ebay or maybe Ken wants them for the museum?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Didn't quite make it....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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dogtown, ya you're prolly right. Bob is a burlfest; I had seen him and Largo at the same location once. Veritable fortress of burl.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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nice!
anyone going to be on it in April?
gotta get back
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Depends if I have a job or not, if I do then no. If I don't then yes. Will keep you informed I would love to spend a week or so there. (Lots of memories)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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no doubt a week would be about right. same here, if job, then prolly not, if not, they prolly so.
i need to do some basics I haven't done...
White Maidens
Traitor Horn
the list goes on...
a repost of an old one of me... sorry they are big but next one down was only so so
i don't think this is me, so we'll say unidentified...
scanner is working again.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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So, who did the second assent of Muir Trail ? Not both of those 'dime' guys ?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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you're on Mike
Gordo, which route is that crack? Hernia?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Bart -
Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, and a bird.
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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@Mungeclimber
> Gordo, which route is that crack? Hernia?
Looks like _The Shadow_ (5.8, just right of the Rebolting face).
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Next time I’m up there I'm going to try and get some good photos of The Edge. That thing is defiantly aesthetic, especially with Suicide in the back ground. It seems like you could get some really good angles of the that climb while rapping the green arch. I’d like to climb it too!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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The Edge - better yet the Turbo Flange (5.11a/b, follows the edge from the ground up instead of traversing in the 80 foot level), is possibly the last word in Tahquitz climbing. What with new wave sticky shoes and vastly better skillz, I'd have figured the modern climber would be all over this route, done over 30 years ago.
Go figure why it remains so unpopular.
JL
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Its the number of climbers, not the percentage. There are just as many crazy sons of bitches now that there were before, but a lot more people who don't get their jollies that far above bolts. As cutting edge as Turbo Flange is, the 5.14 R/X climber isn't going to travel all the way out to Tahquitz to prove himself on it, that won't get his face on the mah-guh-zine.
The guys who respect the route and aspire to attain its lofty heights? Not the kind that self promote, I would think. No small wonder we don't hear of it...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Largo,
On a fine day about 12 years ago Mark Wagner was on a tear and led both pitches of the Flange. Ian Katz and I tagged along for the ride. It was a hot day, less than optimal for that route (which was my excuse for not doing some of the leading) and Mark was fully desperate at the bulge getting to Sorensons famous bolt way up there. I was belaying, watching his feet sketching as he fought for it. I was genuinely concerned but he did it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Froodish, kewl thx.
another of our unidentified blue lycra clad lady (sans noose)
intrepid leader taking photos
guided trip back then???
just random photos we were taking of climbers then.
edit - routes in this area are Nawab and Spatula and I think a third.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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You never know what you might find there.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Gdavis raises an interesting point. Tahquitz and Suicide have fallen out of flavor with the 5.14RX crowd, but this all happened in the strangest way.
At most "old" areas, the antique testpieces are eventually dashed up by everyone with a harness, then the place slowly fades into oblivion. Funny thing about Idyllwild is that the hardest routes at both areas have never seen much traffic. Routes like The Untickable, Hades, Someone You're Not, Calente, The Hangover, etc. might have equivocal ratings since they have so rarely been climbed. Seems folks moved on before actually mastering the local fare.
I'll bet those hard Hensel routes are done once a year or not at all. Weird. . .
JL
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Don't forget all the great bouldering in the area
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Hell Largo. Some of those hard Hensel routes were done once or twice year or not at all. Back then. (Because their f*#king hard )
Bruce.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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John,
You pose an interesting observation and question. I also found Randy's post about the SYN rating interesting. I'll see if I can post up a few of my thoughts on it a little later this evening.
BTW - if you have any Stairway to Heaven or Hades pictures hanging around, post them up, we'd all like to see them. I'm thinking Stairway may be another route that still doesn't have a repeat. At least not that I know of. That would be a plum to try and do.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Bruce - your email...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Henny;...I did Stairway to Heaven;...so it HAS had a repeat;....oh;..you mean a repeat FREE ascent......never mind.........we aided the sucka.....
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Gordo - if you have pictures of it... don't hold out on me man. And I don't care if it was aid.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mari, Vampire:
Mike, El Camino:
Doug, Flakes:
Roy, Le Toit:
Russ, Sundance:
Doug, Green Arch:
Dave, New Gen:
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Thanks Darrell.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I'll try and dig out some pics of Stairway to Heaven. Dean's got a couple of the crux pitch that are going into the new Stonemaster book (plus several pics of Hades), but I don't have those.
It seems impossible that someone hasn't repeated that route. What the heck are people doing who go up there? Stairway to Heaven is like 30 years old, and must be readily doable by modern standards.
JL
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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John -
People just plain aren't going up there to do the harder routes. I was there a bit last year and rarely saw anyone on anything.
Man, we make good parrots. I also can't believe the routes up there don't get done. They just can't be that hard. If some of us old dudes can still get up 'em, I mean sheesh, give me a break. It has to be other reasons like popularity.
I know someone who recently expressed an interest in checking out the Stairway. It would be great to see anything at all from the route.
Gordo - you're making me dizzy. Reorient that picture. You're as bad as Muir.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Here's one for Hensel...
Open Book...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sport climber LIEBACKING a jam crack.......Piasano Crack
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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..Sunshine Face
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Frank "Beebop" Bentwood.........author of many a FA in Idyllwild......fingers of steel....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sunshine face traffic jams....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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The Man in Idyllwild;....Mr. Troll, sir.....
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Everybody is making me crazy with the great pictures.
So, why the downturn in the popularity of Idyllwild? Some of these are pretty obvious but here's some possibilities:
Sport Climbing. It's steeper and physically more challenging. As rap bolting became mainstream the availability of sport choices exploded. Rock types that would be hard to bolt on lead were suddenly wide open. Most people would rather do steep limestone or something similar, and for some pretty good reasons. People are attracted to the spectacular, steep, powerful options that sport offers.
Bouldering. It's now a complete end to itself. There's a lot of very talented people who just don't have that much interest in doing routes. The envelope can be pushed without ever putting a rope on.
Granite. Hard slabs have a lower ceiling for high end grades. It doesn't take much for something to become virtually impossible when it's almost featureless by nature in the first place. It's really hard to imagine what .13 slab at Idyllwild would even look like, much less .14 slab. Plenty of 12-, some mid 12, few 12+ and up. That's what Idyllwild granite usually gives you. If there are no holds and it's too steep for friction; it doesn't matter how strong you are, you can't pull on air nor can you stand on it.
Skill Set. Pretty hard to be a gym product and do well. Even though it's mainly bolts you still need to be able to place gear. It helps to know how to fall, sometimes big. How about pure edging skills? They're needed.
Sand. The ratings sometimes tend to be off by a grain or two. Although people like Randy have done a pretty good job of making the area be at least self consistent. For some reason slab seems to have suffered perhaps a bit more compression in it's grades than other types of climbing. Almost everything has been compressed into 12-. If standards get pushed what will they be? 13- would be the logical extension. (see Granite above)
Recognition/Visibility. Yeap. If that's the game you're not going to get there from here. (see Granite, Bouldering, and Sport Climbing above, plus the comments made by others earlier) Too little payoff for the effort that may be required.
Familiarity. As John said, people move on. And that's even more true now with all the options. Most people excell when at their home crag. But Idyllwild is actually fairly limited in size, and with not much obvious potential left (Granite). So they move on before they've made it their home crag by climbing there enough.
I'll bet people can come up with other good reasons as well. With the deck stacked against it, it's kind of understandable why it's no longer as popular. Which is fine. More solitude when we can get up there. Their loss, our gain.
Looking down Sundike.
How about the Double Exposure arete in the background.
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apogee
climber
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"So, why the downturn in the popularity of Idyllwild?"
I dunno, but it's all good to me...!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sideshow area
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Needs no explaination
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Henny wrote; I'll bet people can come up with other good reasons as well. With the deck stacked against it, it's kind of understandable why it's no longer as popular. Which is fine. More solitude when we can get up there. Their loss, our gain.
That's the way I see it !
Wish I could go back there more.
But I have a new home crag now ( Vedauwoo ) which will hav-ta-do ! ( sh#t )
Bruce.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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More like, Can't be explained.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Time to go on a diet;..I pulled a piece...oops...
Forest Lawn
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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What a great thread, I had no idea the place was becoming unpopular, I'll have to make a trip back down there. I'll throw down some old pics too, though I suspect I've posted these here before a couple years ago:
John McManus leading El Camino
Mike Palm following El Camino, John's feet showing
Stitching routes together, headed for Traitor Horn eventually
Largo working on The Hangover (I think)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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nice Offwhite!
yeah, i think some of mine are repeats too, I'll try and find that thread...
maybe we can repost some more. hahaha
worthwhile for sure
edit - found it...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=406102&msg=419687#msg419687
Mimi posted a Summit 1960 article that is worth the link and Reddirt has a shot of Weeping Wall
the other thread was mine that only went to 18 posts, and all images are dupes.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Late April could happen Munge !
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I was going to debate Randy's comment on the current SYN rating being meaningless. Then I realized he would just go all lawyer like on me and turn anything I said into something that supported his position instead of mine. (joking, well, sort of)
It doesn't matter much what it's rated. It's superb rock, great climbing, a somewhat perplexing crux, and hard enough. That's what matters.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Anybody done routes they thought were sandbags? I've always found The Man That Fell to Earth hard for the grade.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I've always found The Man That Fell to Earth hard for the grade."
I thought that one was way harder than the other stuff of its grade. And I followed-- Gilje took a nasty whipper on the lead, but went back up and finished.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"So, why the downturn in the popularity of Idyllwild? Some of these are pretty obvious but here's some possibilities:
Sport Climbing. It's steeper and physically more challenging. As rap bolting became mainstream the availability of sport choices exploded. Rock types that would be hard to bolt on lead were suddenly wide open. Most people would rather do steep limestone or something similar, and for some pretty good reasons. People are attracted to the spectacular, steep, powerful options that sport offers.
Bouldering. It's now a complete end to itself. There's a lot of very talented people who just don't have that much interest in doing routes. The envelope can be pushed without ever putting a rope on.
Granite. Hard slabs have a lower ceiling for high end grades. It doesn't take much for something to become virtually impossible when it's almost featureless by nature in the first place. It's really hard to imagine what .13 slab at Idyllwild would even look like, much less .14 slab. Plenty of 12-, some mid 12, few 12+ and up. That's what Idyllwild granite usually gives you. If there are no holds and it's too steep for friction; it doesn't matter how strong you are, you can't pull on air nor can you stand on it.
Skill Set. Pretty hard to be a gym product and do well. Even though it's mainly bolts you still need to be able to place gear. It helps to know how to fall, sometimes big. How about pure edging skills? They're needed.
Sand. The ratings sometimes tend to be off by a grain or two. Although people like Randy have done a pretty good job of making the area be at least self consistent. For some reason slab seems to have suffered perhaps a bit more compression in it's grades than other types of climbing. Almost everything has been compressed into 12-. If standards get pushed what will they be? 13- would be the logical extension. (see Granite above)
Recognition/Visibility. Yeap. If that's the game you're not going to get there from here. (see Granite, Bouldering, and Sport Climbing above, plus the comments made by others earlier) Too little payoff for the effort that may be required.
Familiarity. As John said, people move on. And that's even more true now with all the options. Most people excell when at their home crag. But Idyllwild is actually fairly limited in size, and with not much obvious potential left (Granite). So they move on before they've made it their home crag by climbing there enough."
Plus most folks now learn to climb in the gym, and that means that a lower percentage of all the n00bs will be at the crag on any given day, getting familiar with approaches and descents, the weather, the rock and all those unquantifiable things that go into useful experience even before you start reaching for bigger numbers. That also makes Tahquitz less obvious as a destination crag once they've started edging into intermediate skill levels.
So far as the top end is concerned, I think that a lot more talent has gone into bouldering. Certainly way more than when I was living there. Black Mt., Tram, a jillion other local areas-- Idyllwild has world-class, destination bouldering. It isn't even close to being climbed out, and the quantity of high quality, elite level untapped rock is mind boggling.
I don't know of a jillion new lines awaiting development on Tahquitz.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I also think bouldering is a major player in the reasons. And the highballs prove they've got heads and are more than one or two move wonder climbers. If some of that bouldering talent wanted to do hard routes, they'd do them.
Oh yeah, that Man That Fell to Earth is one funky deal. I mean, what's with that?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Henny and KLK make some great points to explain why Tahquitz and Suicide are not the centers of the So Cal climbing scene they once were.
The skill set needed to succeed in climbing even moderate routes at these areas involve a lot more than whether you can avoid back-clipping a draw or not. There is a steeper and much more time consuming learning curve in climbing trad routes (be they bolted or not).
Last year I lead Man Who Fell to Earth again. The bottom section was more difficult than I remembered. And although the "crux" up high was hard and all, it was the long run out from the first bolt to the second that had me thinking a long time before committing.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Whoever says there is not much unclimbed rock in Idyllwild, is mistaken;...there are hundreds of new lines to be climbed....sure, Bob Gaines has snagged most of the unclimbed rock left on the established rock on Tahquitz and Suicide....but go to 1 hour rock, beyond the N. Face of Tahquitz, or South of the South face of Tahquitz....or up on the high ridges N. of San Jacinto, or hell...all over the place;...there is rock up the butt all over the mountains......and guys like Dave and Kendall Vaught and Frank Bentwood and some by Bob Gaines.......it's more than you could ever climb in a lifetime.........but it's mostly all a hike to .....there lies the crux of the biscuit.......Check out these few tasty tidbits for a sampling......
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/Otherareas/newidyllwild.htm
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apogee
climber
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Todd, ssshhhhh!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Believe me;...it's the same at Joshua Tree...or most places on planet earth.......climbers are lazy;......I can't get anyone to go climbing with me besides Tucker and Resa because I climb more than 20 min. from the road........it's really no big secret;...you can see rock from the parking lot all over the place.......but hiking up to it.....maybe through some manzanita.....well;.......probably as safe as a lock box on the bottom of the ocean....................
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"but go to 1 hour rock, beyond the N. Face of Tahquitz, or South of the South face of Tahquitz....or up on the high ridges N. of San Jacinto"
Yeah, I've been over some of those ridges. Scott and Rob did stacks before they left Idyllwild. And I left a number of projs unfinished when I left.
But it's nothing like the ease with which a top-end boulderer can still find and establish classics at Black Mt or Tram, let alone the jillion other obscure areas.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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flag 'em, tag 'em, & bag 'em.
Then post up the pictures: we want results.
I want my TacoTime™
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Long time ago, we used to head over there couple times a year. Then just sorta stopped going for some reason. Love the place, need to get back.
Remember the annual "wine & cheese party"? Ran across these guys up on top in June of '93.
Doing a little bouldering at the City Park/Campground
As I recall, this was called the "Tits Boulder", for uh...obvious reasons. My buddy Fred standing on the "tits."
Wonderful moderate on Suicide, Flower Of High Rank.
In the middle of Whodunnit, Tahquitz
At the top of Whodunnit, Tahquitz
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Paisano Jam Crack BF (before friends)
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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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So I will chime in on the story about the first ascent of Someone You're Not. Big Chicken and I are up replacing bolts on the Caliente. Henny raps and pulls the old bolts and then I rap and replace them with new bigger ones. When I get to the ground I ask him, "did you see em'" He mumbles "ya I saw them". What we saw were a perfect set of orange edges going right up the steepest part of the headwall 20' or so right of Caliente. There was no mystery that we would be back next weekend to give the thing a go. It was just to alluring to pass up. The 5.10 slab below the headwall went quickly. The headwall was just as cool as it had looked-perfect sharp granite edges that lead to the top of the headwall and then stopped. We got the headwall bolts in off hooks. I gave it the first go and quickly realized that this was going to be as hard or harder than anything we had done bouldering at Rubidoux. After falling off after my first attempt I started barking like a dog and Henny held the rope tight, instead of lowering me as was customary before another try. For our first time ever we started hangdogging, letting go of some of our traditional roots and hence the name-Someone You're Not. Over the course of 5-6 days spread out over several months we would come back for a day of "aeriel bouldering" attempting to solve the baffling crux and the hardest set of moves that probably either one of us had ever tried or done.
Henny finally solved the mystery, climbed his way up to the "perfect pair" two knobs similar to a set of breasts, one even with a nipple like protrusion. An incredible sequence that really kind of "just happened". I think in all, 8 days were spent before the whole thing went down as a single lead. No known second ascent and another one of those Henny routes I wish I could say that I have done.
"I respected him as the master and he respected me as the student and that is the way that it will always be" and really still is. Thanks man for letting me share a rope with you all these years and teaching me through your quiet introspective ways how to stand on the "ultra extreme".
Powell
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dimes, nothing wrong with the modified ground up approach. still not a pre-determined out come, especially at that grade.
F10, nice pics.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nice Kevin!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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There were no fixed pins on the corner section (there was one one below the face cruz though) of the Green Arch the couple times we did it in the late 70'. Many, many small wired stoppers were required. Stout and calf pumpy to the max!
And Randy, I did the first lead of The Man Who Fell to Earth back then, after Eric and Fred "equipped" it....and I don't remember a thing about other than quite "funky."
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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yeah that photo of the green arch up thread did seem pretty "equipped" I too remember only a pin at the face traverse.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Speaking of 'Whodunit'....
Mrs. Mooch exits the chimney on Pitch #3
Some fun exposure on pitch #5
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I did The Man That Fell to Earth as a warm down immediately after the SYN FA. Almost wished I hadn't as it came really close to blowing my buzz. Funny how we all seem to come back to the word "funky" when we talk about it.
"the perfect pair", ah yes, quite the alluring feature(s). I was pysched to finally get to see them up close and personal. (hehe)
Since KP talked about the name I'll add a little more. It also had multiple meanings.
Mainly for the reasons mentioned by KP.
Second, the crux had shut us down dead cold even though it looked doable. That became frustrating. All I had to do was a couple more moves and I couldn't even keep it together long enough to do that. If I couldn't do a couple of moves, I wasn't anybody (proving this false became a good motivator).
And last, this was around the time of the "Hades in an easy afternoon" episode as well as shortly after a good French climber failed miserably on Caliente. Well... SYN on Idyllwild slab. This seems pretty d#mn territorial/vain/arrogant in retrospect. Even kind of embarrassing now. But at the time the Hades episode was still annoying.
Most people probably think the name was given based primarily on the last reason, which it wasn't. It was really about us poking fun at ourselves, and for more than one reason.
Thanks Kevin. The people around us help make us what we are. You have certainly done that.
Thanks Randy. Your comment about SYN's significance at T&S was quite a compliment.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Well, if that vert section on SYN is harder than the hardest period comps at Rubidoux or wherever, then it has to be at least V8 and probably harder. That would certainly crank the route grade up higher than 13a, so LST's judgment is probably reasonable.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I love granite!!!
Look at mooch's first pic where you see the salt/pepper of the granite.
I need to check that sh#t out!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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I'm offically jonesing now.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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When I did Green Arch it had several pins and I liked it like that.
I would also like to request that someone compliment Henny again so I can post-up the
Super Chicken cartoon intro to slag him a bit.
tnx
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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The pins have come and gone on green arch as long as I have been doing it. Last summer it was like a sport climb with so much fixed gear.
I recall an ascent back in about 1990. I led, and clipped a few pins which were there then. Brent came up next, and whe he got to the bealy I was astonished to see a couple of those pins jangling on his sling. So he says to me "I am supposed to clean the gear as second, am I not?" They had been easlily removed by hand.
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Has anyone here repeated TM's Jewel?
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72hw
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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As a relatively new climber, I have just begun to discover the wonders of the Idyllwild area, but already it has become a part of my being and I simply cannot wait to get back up there this season.
On my list of hits for this summer are Whodunit, Open Book, El Camino Real and Traitor Horn. All look like awesome routes!
Here are a few pics, nothing spectacular like the ones posted earlier, but fun none the less...
My boss David leading up the first pitch of Fingertrip.
Me casting off onto P3 of the same.
David and Victor chillaxing on Lunch Ledge, watching an unknown soloist cruise the upper pitches above. This was Victors second time climbing, first multi pitch and first real climb. He is now hooked and is as anxious to get back to Idyllwild as I am!
Me clowning around atop the exit slab.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Great pix of Fingertrip. And for the whining or semi-whining I've done in this thread about folks not climbing the testpieces at Tahquitz and Suicide, when I think about what I'd like to do if I get back for a trip, I'm always thinking about running a ton of mileage on easy classics.
The last time I was there, in 2001, it was an easy solo loop: Up North Rib, down the gully, up White Maiden's, down Friction, up Fingertip and back over the top and down North Rib.
I don't know anywhere else I can do that sort of quick easy high-granite fix w/o epic approaches or fighting the gumby clusters on Tenaya Buttress or Cathedral.
If I were a local again, doubtless I'd start wanting to get more ambitious.
But I have a sneaking suspicion that each gym in SoCal must harbor at least a few young talented groms who'd actually really love to have one of the old guys drag them up some of the harder classics to help them get started. If having some continuity matters a lot, those of you still in residence should consider just picking out a few new gen types to mentor.
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72hw
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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But I have a sneaking suspicion that each gym in SoCal must harbor at least a few young talented groms who'd actually really love to have one of the old guys drag them up some of the harder classics to help them get started. If having some continuity matters a lot, those of you still in residence should consider just picking out a few new gen types to mentor.
I totally agree - though I am not an old timer, I do spend a lot of time in the gym (I happen to work right across the street from one) and have taken more than a few gym rats out for their first real rock experiences. Right now I am helping a very strong and talented boulderer with his interest in placing gear on crack climbs and he is no doubt gonna be a fantastic ropegun once the process is done... Hooray for me!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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klk,
I totally agree. The place is just so much fun that I used to drive up there just to solo Fingertrip Traverse, etc. Lots of mileage, lots of quality granite, lots of fun.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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These have appeared previously on the Taco but.......I need to do some more scanning.
Clark Jacobs on the Pirate, mid 70's.
Rubideaux Jim Wilson on Valhalla P.1, 1975. We may have still been in high school.
Ricky and Tobin during the FFA of Green Arch, sorry about the blurriness.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Ricky on some splitter up there. Waaaaay before friends were invented.
DE on Suicide S. Face. Waaay before it was freed.
DE and Jim Angione on Ski Tracks, high school years. Well, all these shots are from the high school years.
Gordo, what is that arete up thread with Tucker ?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dee ee.....it's over at Owl Rock, across from the N. Face of Tahquitz up on the hillside.....we did 3 routes on it.....one 5.10+ and two 5.10 - routes.....they were cool.....Troll and Beebop Frankie Lee routes.....
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Todd Gordon wrote: ""Whoever says there is not much unclimbed rock in Idyllwild, is mistaken;...there are hundreds of new lines to be climbed....sure, Bob Gaines has snagged most of the unclimbed rock left on the established rock on Tahquitz and Suicide....but go to 1 hour rock, beyond the N. Face of Tahquitz, or South of the South face of Tahquitz....or up on the high ridges N. of San Jacinto, or hell...all over the place;...there is rock up the butt all over the mountains...""
To wit; what are these guys? (pics taken from the Palm Springs tram area a couple weeks back):
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72hw
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Nice pics from the tram, indeed when I go up to boulder I am struck by the tons of quality looking rock disappearing beneath the car as we ride up the wires.
I always wonder if access might be an issue, it being so close to the tram pathway. Any thoughts on that?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Your first pic is Kaufman crag. It is south of the tram up at the top?
The south face, away from the tram is nice. I did a great route with Guy keesee there I called “It’s Always Something” ( my heroine Gilda Radner had just died) in about 1991. Descend the gully to where the face turns and really faces south. Begin at a bouldery overhang to a little ledge, go up right on a weird dicey ramp past a bolt and then climb up left over a bulging nose onto a thin face with a couple bolts. 1 pitch, 11c. Bridwell did another route sharing the start and going up left on a thin face with a couple of bolts at about the same grade. There is another one uphill a bit I did with Brent Ingram (in Desperate Hot Springs back then) we called Corners Report – the obvious clean corner – 10d. Take a few ball nuts, there is one perfect ball nut placement, a dream placement for that piece.
Another Palm Springs local, Steve Simpson, and I mentioned Bridwell, were up there then too. Guy Keesee did the Radner thing with me. Brent and I had seasons passes to the tram for two summers and did a few other things up there too.
The State Park rangers got word we were putting in bolts and turned us back as we got off the tram with our huge climbing packs. It was stupid, we were climbing in a very traditional style and only put in a few bolts. I heard later from Steve that they had removed bolts up there, but I cannot imagine how they could get to the ones on my “It’s Always Something,” which is one of the best new routes I have done. Seeing your picture has motivated me to go back up there and see if it is still in place. As I recall there is not one easy move on the entire pitch, and you need to be good at everything but wide to do it.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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What was supposed to be my 1st trip to YV for spring break-1974 ended up at Idyllwild. I never regretted it. Two more trips in the late 70's and one more trip a few years back made me appreciate how good climbing is there. Everything I've ever done at either Suicide or Tahquitz seems to be a classic!
During my last visit, a comment was made on how few cars there were in Humber Park, and a local remarked that "everyone goes to JT where the sport climbs are, no one's doing trad anymore." So is this still the case or is Idyllwild making a comeback?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Damn. What a great thread this has become! Great photos, all.
Somewhere way up-thread, Bart said, "I would also like to request that someone compliment Henny again so I can post-up the Super Chicken cartoon intro to slag him a bit."
Darrell deserves every compliment, and then some. Kevin's post really says a lot, and I know that it's heartfelt. Over the years, I've been kept continually in awe of the commitment, motivation, tenacity, and skill that The Chicken has shown. To my mind, he's pushed to the absolute limit what a sharp edge and steel claws can do on the thinnest of faces. And Henny's exploits and accomplishments always seem to come second-hand—it's left to someone else to brag about Darrell's latest horror-fest.
While some may disagree (perhaps because of a reputation to maintain), Darrell Hensel OWNs Rubidoux, Suicide, and Tahquitz. We've already alluded to some of his test-pieces there... More recently, take a look at some of the work that he and Woodward have established in the Whitney Portal! Just wow.
There, Bart Fay. I've done my bit. Carry on...
And while we're waiting, here's one I know Darrell likes:
(Sorry, Darrell, Bolton made me do it.)
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Doesn't get any better in Iddy!
(l to r): Jack McBroom (dear climbing partner and the preacher that day), "Mrs. Mooch" (Deb Castro...life and climbing partner) and yours truly.
Wedding performed at Jeff Salz home (beauty view of Tahquitz)
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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My first trip to Tahquitz found me guiding for a college climbing class. The trip was the finale for the students who had learned basic rockcraft over the course of a few months.
What made the class so cool was the female to male ratio- dead even, 7-7! Hello!
My first route was Angels Fright. What a great route it was, and even more memorable because I was paired up with this hottie from Denmark. From below, that roof seemed pretty improbable at 5.4! My stoke level was so high guiding on sight- it was contagious and the student(s) couldn't help but to have a blast. I formed a bond with the Denmark hottie on that route, on Lunch Ledge, that would blossom... in the County Park Campground...in the moonlight...atop a boulder...
For the next few days it was classic after classic with different cuties. Fingertrip, Jensens, Traitor Horn, Left Ski Track- all so good and loaded with history.
I celebrated my birhtday there on that trip, too. The class surprised me with a cake adorned with a rendition of Tahquitz!
All the while the West Face Bulge loomed in my periferal vision.
The class ended a week later and without hesitation my partner and I hopped right back in the truck, drove the six hours to Idyllwild, bivvied in Humber, did the grunt, and roped up on Vampire Ledge.
The Vampire had a magnetic pull on me from the first time I saw it with the class a week earlier.
It exceeded all expectations. One of my all time favorite routes ever, anywhere!!! The Vampire Rules!!!
Two things happened at the bologne slicer belay- I almost dropped a shoe(can't look at Anasazis the same since)
and a glider came over the top of the cliff- WOW! Very cool.
After doing the friction descent for the umpteenth time that week,
we got right back in the truck and drove back to Arizona.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 10, 2009 - 02:44am PT
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bump, because I know others have some trip reports they should link to or post pics from.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 10, 2009 - 02:48am PT
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Since we're celebrating Idy I don't think I've seen a mention of the annual jazz festival. I've been almost every year for the past 7 or 8. It is a seriously good time.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 10, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Though I've posted it elsewhere and earlier, Mike Graham, Rick A (and maybe Richard Harrison?) saved our butts during a wild and sudden snowstorm on Tahquitz back in '75. We'd had an accident bailing off of Left Ski Track (leaving one in our party with an ankle literally snapped sideways after a pretty hideous cartwheeling fall), and the aforementioned compadres--who'd also just gotten stormed off of their attempts at doing the FFA of Green Arch--did an awesome job of rigging the rap with the litter. Top notch!
Another time, I'd taken my wife to be on a route somewhere over on the NE face, and got a bit off route. She, being a little afraid of heights, became even more so after she began following my runout meander across a blank face. She ended up falling, swinging about 40 feet, and slamming into a dead tree snag. I couldn't see a thing, but from my "sitting hip belay" sure felt it. There was tension there for a long time, and I think I might have even perceived a little shaking. Another climber nearby coaxed her into some doable moves, and she eventually made it up to my belay--shaken and cured of large rocks. But hey...she still married me! 29 years, this April! I love Tahquitz!!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 11, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
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Ksolem wrote: "Largo,
On a fine day about 12 years ago Mark Wagner was on a tear and led both pitches of the Flange. Ian Katz and I tagged along for the ride. It was a hot day, less than optimal for that route (which was my excuse for not doing some of the leading) and Mark was fully desperate at the bulge getting to Sorensons famous bolt way up there. I was belaying, watching his feet sketching as he fought for it. I was genuinely concerned but he did it. "
Sorry I missed this one. Gives me the creeps just thinking about ripping below Tobin's "famous" bolt on the Edge - that would be about a 70 footer at least.
JL
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 12, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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Just a little aside. Yes, TMs Jewel is not an aesthetic climb. Neither Powell nor I liked it on the first ascent. That's why Powell named it TMs Jewel. Not a good bet!
TMs Jewel was the name of a dog running at the dogtrack in Rapid City when Kamps and Powell were taking time off from climbing in the Needles. Mark figured he couldn't go wrong with a name like TM's Jewel. He laid some big bucks on TMs Jewel to win. The Jewel came in last!
By the way, the first time I climbed Tahquitz Rock was in the early spring of 1952. I told this to Robbins last fall and he doubted my honesty. I explained that I was up in Idylwild with my college buddy to visit our girlfriends who were on a spring break outing. When we spotted that beautiful rock outcrop we just had to climb it. Neither of us knew anything about rock climbing. We just plowed through the snow straight up to the rock. Tried every which way until we finally worked all the way around to the south face and then finally up to the notch above the Friction Route and walked to the summit.
I didn't return to Tahquitz Rock until 1961 when my life on the rock began.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 12, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
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I suspect surprising Royal with a climbing tale is a good day. :)
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Idyllwild was a great place to live! All these pix's make Robyn and I home sick. KLK is right, we were always able to find new crags. An climb in solitude, Our favorate way to climb!
CHEERS:
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Like this place just above town? Scenic Rock, AKA Club Rock
Robyn Erler on scenic arete
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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??
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rdh
climber
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May 12, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Henny and Largo,
Just for the record, Stairway to Heaven has definitely been repeated free. Frank and Troll and I did it back in 2000. It is way easier than something like the Pirate, so I would assume it has been repeated at least a number of times. Great route. Several photos of first pitch here from Frank/Troll.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 14, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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GO TROLL & FRANK'o !!!!!!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 15, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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SEEEE YAAA!!!
WAREN: looks like he just got laid!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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never a bad idea to bump an Idee Wildee threadee
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Aug 21, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Even though I've only only climbed in Idyllwild for a few seasons, I sometimes feel as though I have a lifetime of great memories.
Cracks and slabs abound, and there's always something harder to aspire to.
The hard-charging bravado that characterized the Stonemaster era may be long gone, with relatively few people venturing onto the hard face climbs as well as diminished FA potential on Suicide Rocks and Tahquitz (as noted in previous posts), but the area still feels like a little slice of paradise to me.
a few random photos:
at the start of Freelance
starting up Hot Buttered Rump, with the gaping chimney looming above
Sonja cruising Johnny Quest
A fun jaunt up the Chatsworth Chimney
on Y-Crack (doesn't seem like this gets climbed very frequently, which I find strange given the reasonable grade, high quality of rock, abundant pro, and pretty awesome exposure for a single pitch)
-Nick
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
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Idyllwild has lost its popularity its because the skills you need to be successful are not easily learned in a gym the amount of foot work you need for the hard face climbing takes a while to learn. And I've noticed alot of really strong climbers only trad climb easy routes like 5.6 even though they can boulder V8 which is really stupid. and as far as the 5.14R/X crowd Idyllwild probably seems like a low rent yosemite to them. and when the really strong climbers do come up to Idyllwild Sharma, Rands, and such they only go to Black Mountain to climb. I work at Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild during the summer so i keep hoping Tommy Caldwell or someone of his caliber will come up and crush all the super hard problems and put up some other hard climbs just like the young guns did to Idyllwild in the past. Darrel said about Some One Your Not in an interview he did with Bruce the manager at Nomad Ventures that he rated it 5.12+ so hopefully it will be repeated, he put it up almost twenty years ago. Also Kelly Kendall and Frank have been putting up dozens of new lines in the hinterlands and other such areas. Idyllwild is my favorite place to climb and has some of the coolest locals and i hope to be seeing more people up their. Did any one hear that Scott Cosgrove Freed part of happy hooker is it true? can't wait to get back.
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gonzo chemist
climber
a crucible
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SUPER-PSYCHED IDY BUMP! The season is upon us! wish I could be up there today!
and I'm renaming this thing the Buttress of Chutes! Anybody who's climbed Frustration, Sword of Damocles, or Captain Hook will understand
...damn those things can be funky...
edit: what the hell? why did ST rotate my picture?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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can't wait to go climbing at Suicide!
RM
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 21, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Great photos and stories everyone. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of climbing in rock shoes but I can share some snapshots from February.
Tdoughty, that Weeping Wall picture is insane!
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Apr 21, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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HEY! Doughty STOLE that photo! (He's a buddy, we were in Josh last weekend)
I posted that pic, among others, here...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=511917
Photo credit goes to Galen Kirkwood. He was on top of pitch 1 of Surprise, looking for bolts. I stayed right, around Duck Soup, following the edge of the ice. I finally found some bolts near the edge that I could clip, that was our rope up point, halfway up the Weeping Wall.
A rare day, to be sure.
BH
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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That one picture sums it up. Best time of my life spent climbing thouse routes.
I love the place goals for this summer rope solo the step and Sooper.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
if anybody can a republican
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Apr 22, 2010 - 05:47am PT
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Idyllwild has always been my favorite place to climb. Arch Angel, Untickable and Man Who Fell To Earth took full attention to send. Darrell taught me a lot about climbing there. Picante is really good with that blank section. Damn, I miss that place.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 23, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Beehay, cool photos on the other forum. Even though I'm stoked for spring/summer in Idyllwild, I definitely miss the winter climbing adventures. It seems like there was serious potential this year but I can't even imagine the weeping wall. That must have felt pretty surreal.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
not very much, recently.
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I just read this through and realized about halfway that this was my second time through this thread... worth a second read for sure! Idyllwild is one of my favorite places too.
Eric
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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From '67 Summit - FA of Jonah by Michael Cohen
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 31, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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BUMP!
Did El Whampo on friday, great 2nd pitch. Crux was the 150 foot 50 degree snowslope leading up the gulley!
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microcam
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano. California
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May 31, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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Did Angel's Fright with my buddy Dave this past Saturday. We had a blast!!! Check out the BITD display at the Historical Society building. It's pretty cool and pick up the dvd of the reunion of climbers this past November. Its a must have!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Spent a leisurely time walking around the south face (rather than descending the snowy north gulley), stopping to take it all in and people watch. A lot of people, but not what I would call crowded, and I got the chance to talk to some as well. Everyone was so stoked, just enjoying themselves... it was a nice vibe. Just a happy group of climbers, playing on the rocks.
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Bruce Nyberg
Trad climber
Sheridan, Wyoming
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I have slides of Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo and Gibb Lewis freeing the Vampire for the first time. I fixed a rope just next to them and was close. I also have slides of Clark Jacobs on Insomnia. The only problem is I do not have a scanner. If there is anyone who can convert these slides so they can be posted, e-mail me at b5craig2n@yahoo.com and I can send them to you. Cheers, Bruce Nyberg.
P.S. I may have some others but I need to go through 17 years of them and it will take some time.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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4 on a Lark. 4 climbers 3 ropes and The Lark. 5-30-10
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Yipee! Now if Kelly would let me surf his "driveway" I'd be set!!!
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Stephen B
Mountain climber
Pasadena
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The unknown climber on Open Book is Wayne Baumgartner. He and I were climbing next to you guys that day. Green Arch is still rad -- it takes balls to get on that one.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Once again x15x15, we do the "hit and miss" meeting. Jealous your house is just below (could throw a rock from LL and hit it...haha!). We climbed 'Dave's Deviation' and then headed over to 'The Swallow' (damn, that route is one SOB!). Came back on Memorial Day and met up with Pat Brennan (Mr. SB) and did 'The Jam Crack' and linked it to 'Piton Pooper'. Pat wanted to check out Harry Daley Direct but we ended up climbing the short lived 'The Climb With No Beginning' (5.6 R/X).
Love your backyard, X-Man!
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David Snyder
Trad climber
California
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Just up at Tahquitz on 5/23/10 and it snow/hailed 4 inches on the approach. Way cool,no climbing that day, but great hiking to the base.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i'm a climber who has never gotten around to climbing everywhere. rather, i've fallen in love with my favorite places, and one of them is idyllwild.
every climbing area has what you might call a platzgeist, a certain spirit about it. idyllwild is incomparable in that department. i never took to josh much--i go skiing that time of year. there are great places, like red rocks, i've never even been to in 30 years of climbing. i don't have to be a rock tourist and see them all. i'd rather get in deeper with those i know and get to know them better.
i've had a different sort of climbing career. i actually got better after i turned 50. go figure that. so i'm back at idyllwild looking at climbs i thought were over my head in the 1980s. i'd put off chingadera for years, and then surprised myself by acquitting myself on it fairly well. and, having climbed with bob kamps shortly before he passed on, it opened a whole door to appreciation of his contributions.
idyllwild is wonderful. if people are missing that, maybe it's the zeitgeist. i wouldn't worry. times change.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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In repentance for my off topic (Alien) debates with Klimmer I've put together some pictures (on topic) of last weekend at Suicide.
My Friend Adam on Valhalla
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Mass
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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x15x15
This must be you guys on The Vampire on 5/30. Sorry it's a crappy photo, one of you is behind the branch, but it was my first time up Tahquitz, on Angels Fright, and I wasn't too focused on photos. What an amazing place.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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I'm currently finalizing a new edition of the Tahquitz and Suicide guidebook with Randy Vogel. Any new route info, topos, corrections, rating changes, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Much Obliged to anyone who has info,
Bob Gaines
to email info:
BGvertical@aol.com
To mail topos:
Bob Gaines
P.O. Box 7548
Newport Beach, CA 92658
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apogee
climber
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Bob-
Who's gonna publish it? I heard that Falcon said they weren't interested.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Eliot,
is that you climbing Fred? That route's high on my list for this season!
how is it?
-Nick
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Fred is an intense climb, but completely manageable. The bolts are really far apart at the top, however you are able to hangout for long periods of time before committing to cruxes. I waited 15 before making the final moves to the anchors. The 11- section is bolt protected, the real crux is keeping your sh*t together for the 10c sections 10-15 feet above your bolts. 11a/b is close to the limit for my climbing ability at Tahquitz,.....go get it!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Hey Nick, you definitely should get on it. I don't think it'd be a problem for you especially compared to other stuff I know you've done.
That's my buddy Phil in the shot and as you can see he barely made it to the top before the sun went down.
As far as the route goes, Port is right, you can hang out for a while on the edges before committing to any of the spicy moves.
However, I thought getting to the first bolt was a little heads up. Phil whipped on a 00 TCU equalized with a small stopper before the first bolt. When he jugged back up to his gear one of the lobes of the TCU wasn't even engaged anymore!
He said it didn't quite fit (too small) but he didn't have anything else. I think I remember placing a #1 metolius master cam at that spot and it fit well. Don't quote me on that though.
Sorry if that is too much info...
In all honesty though Fred is one of my favorite routes at Tahquitz. It's got it all.
Eliot
Btw, I'm heading to Suicide on Friday if either of you are interested.
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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absolutely amazing place to climb. was up there 09.10.2010 met a group from san diego who have been climbing there for years talking about how it wasnt that far of a drive for them. and here i am less then an hour away....a truely lucky man. the weather was amazing all day. as was the flower. my partner took his 1st and 5th lead falls off pitch one of flower of high rank.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 18, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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Thread bump, and a newly unearthed hero-shot photo of Rick Accomazzo working the steepness of Flying Circus (5.11 A4) during Day Two of the project:
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
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Good times
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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awesome jump photo!
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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^^ Indeed, really nice shot. Don't think I've ever seen a picture of Superfly being executed before.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 11, 2011 - 02:56am PT
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Come to the event this saturday!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 10, 2011 - 03:43am PT
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Too classic a thread to ignore bump.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 12, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Bruce Nyberg, long time dude, how goes it? I have a scanner and will convert any you desire. However it is slow so be selective. email me.
David Evans
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Sickler
Trad climber
Missouri
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Sep 13, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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Great thread. I'm headed up there this Sunday, and I'm psyched to get out of the LA madness. Hopefully I'll see some of you guys up there.
Cheers.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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BUMP !!!
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ryno
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 13, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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I had the opportunity to climb here in july. it was spectacular to be in this little mountain town for independence day. definitly going back. i have a pic on that same honeymooners rock as shown a few posts back. and it looks like paul may be on Piton Pooper, but i could be wrong. im def not an expert on this area.
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Michael Lecky
Mountain climber
Harvard, MA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Never climbed on Taquitz, being obsessed with the Weeping Wall on Suicide. Managed to get up Surprise, Serphentine, and Revelation (barely), in that order. Saw Tobin Sorenson ply his craft. How one could smear one's brains out on hot California granite! The fashion was white painter's pants. Did the first two aforementioned routes in my PA's, then got a pair of secondhand EB's. Even with my newfound 60-durometer soles, I was in over my head on Revelation. The old term "treading air" comes to mind. Shouldn't have gotten up it, but did, which still baffles me. From what I read, Revelation is probably now regarded as a hiking route. Anyway, beautiful photos. Thank you.
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Sep 13, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Cheers!
Kia
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Cooker
Mountain climber
LA, CA
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Sep 15, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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Awesome weather 9/10 & 9/11, sunny and windy. Met Clark Jacobs. He was coming off a two week rest, and how does he get back into it?--By free soloing Hernia and Captain Hook. I snapped a few photos below. Unreal, it was like he strolled up.
That's our TR on the side, a little practice before leading.
Todd
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BigNick
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Sep 15, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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apogee
climber
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Sep 16, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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White Maiden's.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Sep 19, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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Hey, Bob
I may have a few old school photos that may be of interest or not who knows? 80’s
Bruce.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Bump !!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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Feeling the pull bump
I'd love to climb up there this Friday...
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apogee
climber
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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NOAA is predicting mid/high 70's by mid-week. Much of the white stuff will quickly disappear with that forecast. Could be good if you pick the right spot.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
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Short sleeves on the Vampire yesterday.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jan 22, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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It's scary dry right now...quite likely we won't see a drop of rain this month.
I was walking through County Park a few weeks ago, and walked past a campsite around dusk with a big 4x4 truck, and a bunch of dudes drinking & yukkin it up. They had a campfire, and were throwing around a burning baton immediately adjacent to the dry grass meadow.
Stupidity knows no bounds. I asked them to refrain from a careful distance...they said ok, then returned to yukking it up as I walked off with Max.
Please....please be careful with fire out there.
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| Messages 1 - 242 of total 242 in this topic |
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