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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Clearly we have to start a program to get Stannard clothed for God's sake. He can't continue like this.
One pointer, since he and I are in fact quite old, he being more so than of course, I hasten to add---I suggest really brightly colored fuzzy fabrics and plastics. Old people love them; they feel good and are cheery to say the least. That should open up the field here for those photoshop maniacs, descendants of the Great Ouch, to post in their concoctions.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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Perhaps a velour track suit would be appropriate, in a suitably lurid hue for safety. jstan spends a lot of time near roads, and can be rather focused.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 22, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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I can't tell you how much I appreciate the well deserved attention. I would, however, prefer to be in Philly.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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For those of you who knew or know Bill Z, the donor of the Gropp print and my old friend and client, here is a nice shot of him. Taken during the time we had his house completely in shambles. He liked the photo so much he sent it to his sister.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 22, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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Hey Mastadon, you remember the road trip to Z-man's place via UC Davis? I was infected and you were playing chauffeur? Between trying to figure the angle of repose was for books and scientific journals stacked on Bill's dining room table and the continuous fever I was sporting at the time, I'm lucky to have survived. Oh, and your speed descent of the Priest grade in your VW.... by comparison, it seemed to make climbing seem like a relatively safe activity.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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An earlier photo of Zaumen of Arabia. Apparently physicists like Arabia.
On GPA, too.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 22, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Mr Mazamadick,
Of course i remember the trip to Z's from The Trench in the late 70's. If I remember correctly, we left The Pit to escape bad weather. No, I don't remember flying down the Priest Grade. I was probably trying to save gas by going the steep way with the engine off. You were so sick, I'm surprised you noticed or remembered.
Climbing IS a relatively safe activity.
How's the snow up your way this winter?
How come you never answer your phone??
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 23, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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BAT shirts should arrive from the printer tomorrow. So maybe it's time to take on another project.....
errr... or wait... it only took 4 months to get the BAT shirts done... maybe someone else should grab the torch on this one. I pulled a hamstring.
but I want one.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks Tami, now I know why we have border crossings! Did you know yesterday was Hockey Day in Canada? I didn't think so......
Masta, xc skiing has been good/great even with the marginal base, it ain't gonna last long though. Ice climbing has been great, but that'll go fast too if it warms up much.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 12:41am PT
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So Steve Gropp reports back that, with artist's credit, he would thrill to having his image used for Facelift t-shirts. Cool. We can get some Magenta, bright yellow and chartreuse once for John Stannard. Probably a small or medium, which do you think?
Steve went on in his email to describe how for a couple of hours, he was wedged in the squeeze chimney just below Hollow Flake Ledge. Not just his boots. Steve Swenson, his partner, had to figure how to pass him, since Gropp was on lead, and set up a system by which they could get Gropp out of there. Steve G. did go on to do two El Cap ascents that year however and eventually got over the hideousness of that situation on the Salathe. He is up on the Orcas Islands now.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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That drawing looks like the hapless climber believes he is halfway into the Jaws of Hell, which is how that situation can feel.
Great.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Peter, et.al.
I agree this is a fine piece of artwork for a climbing-related shirt. Now that the artist has given permission, are we only looking for someone to step in and take the project on?
If so, I nominate... me.
I have already designed/produced a Camp 4 sign shirt that has been seen within the pages of this fine site and I work in the fashion industry so getting this done with little time wasted/hassle is easier than Basket Case. Unless there are other arrangements being made, give me the go-ahead and I'll start the arrangements (who wants what/pricing/styles/colors/delivery/etc.)
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jstan
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Damn! I swore I would never fall in with a crowd like this. I know all of you always sat in the back of the class. And being Canadian I know Tami is deadly with a spitball at forty feet. You have so much room up there in Canada you have to be accurate at a distance.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
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Yeah. That was pretty awful.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Cosmic
You need to open the collar on Jstan of Arabia. . .
he's much more relaxed than that. . .
Mastadon
I know that feeling--I was hiking in Rocky mountain NP
about 15 years ago and though I had rain gear, a similar
storm hit where I was, and by the time I got to my car
I was in similar conditions--I couldn't use my hands they
were so cold. I finally had to ask a guy to open the
snap/button on my jeans so I could take them off
to warm up--nothing like cotten in a downpour. . .
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
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There's one thing missing from the drawing. The tears of fear pouring out his eyes. We only got two pitches above the Hollow Flake on my only attempt. I lead that pitch. It was worth it.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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This is quite interesting to find ones artwork, name and story being bandied about on the internet.
I did the image as a lithograph on stone in 1977. I gave an artists proof to Bill Zaumen. The image is reversed from the real setting because of the printing process.
I never thought of it as a cartoon, being a depiction of an absolutely terrifying climbing accident that happened while attempting the Salathe Wall in 1976. It seems I was given the assignment by "The Captain" of living out what must be every crack climbers worst nightmare; being badly stuck in a squeeze chimney with the potential for a certain long fatal leader fall if I suddenly became unstuck.
It was only through the truly extraordinary climbing and rescue efforts of my partner, Steve Swenson that I got out at all, although very much the worse for wear. This little epic lasted the entire length of a very long and brutally painful day.
I did manage to climb two El Cap routes back to back later that month, although I tended to avoid leading chimneys and offwidths for some time afterwards.
I would be happy to donate the artwork for the cause although I would like some kind artistic credit for it. It's so easy in this information age to rip off others work ,intentionally or not. Whoever is in charge of this project can contact me via my website: salamanderforge.com
I believe I have an original copy of the artwork if that is needed, although the posted photoshopped version is not too bad. I also have several other original prints in a similar vein.
I still have a number of scars from that accident, even after 33 years.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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I remember Bill Z used to tell stories about some Wacky physicist and one in particular about how he talked his way out of a speeding my explaining how he could not be "accelerating at 75mph," or something.
Yes, thats-a story he told us. Ciao.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 23, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Good one! I wonder how the cop and the judge felt about being schooled in basic Newtonian physics - the difference between speed, velocity, and acceleration? With maybe a few vectors and some basic relativity thrown in, for fun?
I suspect most speed-limit laws use the word "speed", e.g. "exceeded a rate of speed of ### kph" or "exceeded a speed of ### kph". It wouldn't take much knowledge of physics to expose that sort of thing, and at least have some fun.
I once knew a cop who regularly referred in court to people as "driving with undue care and attention". (The statute says "without due care and attention"). He wasn't amused when he was called on it. The defendant's lawyer rightly observed that there was no offence of "driving with undue care and attention", and indeed, if someone was driving in that manner, why was it a problem?
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Steve,
It's curious how one gets reacquainted with the past through something like this. As soon as I read the post, saw the drawing, heard the names, it brought back a vivid memory loud and clear. Kit and I did the climb later that season and I was terrified of doing the same thing after hearing your story. Do you have any more prints? I'd love to hang one in our store just terrify sport climbers! Send me PM if you get a chance.
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