Roots of the Boulder Free Climbing Renaissance- Briggs 73

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Messages 81 - 99 of total 99 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
Local, you've got more and better stories than most. Even back in the old days
you did, and now they are all the old days.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
Chiloe has an amazing collection.

One photo from that collection, of Roger Briggs in fact, was possibly gonna appear
in Levin's new Eldo guide. I haven't seen the book yet (has anyone?), so I don't
know if that happened.

But as for the collection itself -- that literally sat in my closet for 30 years, with no
place to show, until Al Gore invented the interwebs and stuff.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
Larry..do you get your guide yet??
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
Hah, I certainly did, Bob. I've been paging through it like a novel (I do that with
guidebooks) and adding sticky tags to pages with stuff that's new to me and looks fun.

It boggles my mind that there is so much more rock in Boulder Canyon than there
used to be.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
Terrific tell there local.
When you look at routes with Reveley's name attached, they tend to be STOUT.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Larry...hope you like it? It is already outdated by about 50 new routes.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
It looks great on the table, but if I get lost I'll blame you!
Climbing a few Boulder routes each year, I'm unlikely to catch up.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
It is a really great book Bob, congratulations.
Now let's get back to the history.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
Forward into the past...LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
Eldo Bump!
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Jan 25, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Roger Briggs was a inspiration to many climbers,not only did he do many first ascents but he also was one of the first climbers to truly perfect a system for rope soloing free climbs. Watched him lead Country club crack all free in one pitch...rope solo,then rappel down to a small ledge at the base of Never a dull moment and lead that all free rope solo. He would also rope solo lots of stuff here in the backyard of Eldo that are pretty stout>
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 27, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
bump
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Mar 8, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
I'd just love to see those pics of Roger leading Death and Transfiguration..did I miss them?
o-man

Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 8, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
I never tire of this articl and the subsiquent thread line!There are some very heavy hitters mentioned in the article and posting comments here as well.
BTW:That dynamic image on the cover of Climbing of Michael Gilbert on Kloberdanze was taken by BUC TAYLOR. He told me the other day that the slide was never returned to him and that he dosen't even have a copy of it. Also Climbing spelled his name wrong in the credits.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Boulder Bump...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 27, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Just the title of this thread alone is a misnomer.
The real roots of free climbing in Colorado were in the days
of Cary Huston, Dale Johnson, Baker Armstrong, maybe even
Tom Hornbein and some of those classic figures, and many who
were learning and at the top of the standard of their day.
Then Layton and Northcutt, and Rearick and Kamps, and
the great Bob Culp. Larry Dalke and I stepped into the scene,
but we saw the horizons of our day from the shoulders of
some great individuals who went before. Royal led Final Exam in
'64, a route most think of now as 5.11a, but he did it without
chalk and hung there with one arm to hammer in a piton for
protection. That was a significant, however small, route.
Royal also led the very thin first
pitch of Athlete's Feat virtually unprotected (no bolt, just
a single upsidedown, manky bugaboo under a dubious flake far
below). That single piton he had would not have kept him from
hitting the ground, or that bad flake, had he fallen off the
crux move. That was solid 5.10, in 1964. I led the second
ascent of the route soon after I got back from my trip to
the Valley with Royal. The real renaissance began, though, in
the mid-1960s, when 5.11 became a reality in Eldorado. And
of course John Gill was doing some bouldering.... Layton's
lead of Overhang Rock, Rogue's Arete, in 1963, is still viewed
today as something rather horrifying. Roger Briggs calls it
"futuristic." One could simply change the thread title to:
"The 1970s free climbing Renaissance." But it would be a
better piece to mention those who were the founding climbers
of the '60s and who inspired many of the '70s stars. We never
operate in a vacuum....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Pat- The thread title is an invitation to talk about the very history that I expect YOU to elucidate going as far back as YOU like.

Being inclusive was my intent so the title is no misnomer at all.

Just look at the OP. The majority of routes under discussion are from your crew so I don't get your beef.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 01:14am PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
Bump in search of Eldorado...
Messages 81 - 99 of total 99 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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