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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Local, you've got more and better stories than most. Even back in the old days
you did, and now they are all the old days.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Chiloe has an amazing collection.
One photo from that collection, of Roger Briggs in fact, was possibly gonna appear
in Levin's new Eldo guide. I haven't seen the book yet (has anyone?), so I don't
know if that happened.
But as for the collection itself -- that literally sat in my closet for 30 years, with no
place to show, until Al Gore invented the interwebs and stuff.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
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Larry..do you get your guide yet??
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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Hah, I certainly did, Bob. I've been paging through it like a novel (I do that with
guidebooks) and adding sticky tags to pages with stuff that's new to me and looks fun.
It boggles my mind that there is so much more rock in Boulder Canyon than there
used to be.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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Terrific tell there local.
When you look at routes with Reveley's name attached, they tend to be STOUT.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Larry...hope you like it? It is already outdated by about 50 new routes.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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It looks great on the table, but if I get lost I'll blame you!
Climbing a few Boulder routes each year, I'm unlikely to catch up.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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It is a really great book Bob, congratulations.
Now let's get back to the history.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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Forward into the past...LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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Eldo Bump!
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Jan 25, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Roger Briggs was a inspiration to many climbers,not only did he do many first ascents but he also was one of the first climbers to truly perfect a system for rope soloing free climbs. Watched him lead Country club crack all free in one pitch...rope solo,then rappel down to a small ledge at the base of Never a dull moment and lead that all free rope solo. He would also rope solo lots of stuff here in the backyard of Eldo that are pretty stout>
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 27, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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bump
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I'd just love to see those pics of Roger leading Death and Transfiguration..did I miss them?
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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I never tire of this articl and the subsiquent thread line!There are some very heavy hitters mentioned in the article and posting comments here as well.
BTW:That dynamic image on the cover of Climbing of Michael Gilbert on Kloberdanze was taken by BUC TAYLOR. He told me the other day that the slide was never returned to him and that he dosen't even have a copy of it. Also Climbing spelled his name wrong in the credits.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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Boulder Bump...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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May 27, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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Just the title of this thread alone is a misnomer.
The real roots of free climbing in Colorado were in the days
of Cary Huston, Dale Johnson, Baker Armstrong, maybe even
Tom Hornbein and some of those classic figures, and many who
were learning and at the top of the standard of their day.
Then Layton and Northcutt, and Rearick and Kamps, and
the great Bob Culp. Larry Dalke and I stepped into the scene,
but we saw the horizons of our day from the shoulders of
some great individuals who went before. Royal led Final Exam in
'64, a route most think of now as 5.11a, but he did it without
chalk and hung there with one arm to hammer in a piton for
protection. That was a significant, however small, route.
Royal also led the very thin first
pitch of Athlete's Feat virtually unprotected (no bolt, just
a single upsidedown, manky bugaboo under a dubious flake far
below). That single piton he had would not have kept him from
hitting the ground, or that bad flake, had he fallen off the
crux move. That was solid 5.10, in 1964. I led the second
ascent of the route soon after I got back from my trip to
the Valley with Royal. The real renaissance began, though, in
the mid-1960s, when 5.11 became a reality in Eldorado. And
of course John Gill was doing some bouldering.... Layton's
lead of Overhang Rock, Rogue's Arete, in 1963, is still viewed
today as something rather horrifying. Roger Briggs calls it
"futuristic." One could simply change the thread title to:
"The 1970s free climbing Renaissance." But it would be a
better piece to mention those who were the founding climbers
of the '60s and who inspired many of the '70s stars. We never
operate in a vacuum....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Pat- The thread title is an invitation to talk about the very history that I expect YOU to elucidate going as far back as YOU like.
Being inclusive was my intent so the title is no misnomer at all.
Just look at the OP. The majority of routes under discussion are from your crew so I don't get your beef.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
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Bump in search of Eldorado...
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