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jpin
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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Ok Basilisk This is the cover and the stone house page.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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I climbed at Stonehouse a couple of times in the late '70s. I remember quite a neat little crag directly above the pond but on very private property. Is it still accessible?
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TRo
climber
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Sorry to enter the discussion late but, I'm not in the states right now so I can't access my guidebooks. I have a very old Cannon guide, John Porter comes to mind as the author, bought at the Skimeister ski shop in 72-73??? Maybe 15 routes in it. Rubin was still in his teens then, I think (sorry Al).
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:30am PT
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Hi TRo, You wrote "...in 72-73...Rubin was still in his teens then, I think." I only wish!!!!!---you're too kind. I think it was Peterson not Porter who wrote that first Cannon guide, but I might be wrong. Porter was surely in the area and working at Skimeister in the early '70s, but may already have left for the UK by '72-'73.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Feb 13, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Stonehouse is currently has access issues, but the state is in limbo to buy the land and make it a state park with access for all. Great Cliff.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 13, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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meclimber, I didn't know the state was considering a purchase. IMHO Stonehouse is one of
the prettiest places in southern New Hampshire. We used to visit there often, before access
became such an issue.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 13, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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Just a reminder
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Feb 13, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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A friend of mine got arrested for tresspassing just after the property changed hands a couple years ago. (You used to be able to get a waiver from the old land owner) His father works for the state doing something with land management, and he brought it before the right commitee and as far as I know we should be good in the next year or so.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 13, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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I bought my first perlon rope at Skimeister in 1972. 165 feet for $58 !
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adamiata
Ice climber
Candia, NH
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Feb 17, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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That's good news to hear about Stonehouse Pond. Is there anything those of us that live in the area can do to help the process?
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Feb 17, 2009 - 10:48am PT
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I was with that particular friend this weekend and it came up that it is well in motion. But I can ask him about particulars if you would like me to post up. The ice looked pretty good there this year too!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 17, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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But I can ask him about particulars if you would like me to post up.
Please do.
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Basilisk
Ice climber
New Hampshire
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
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Bonus!
I confess I've triple posted this thread into Mountainproject.com and RC.com. The good news is that Christopher over at MP uploaded the Swain guide as well as a new (I think better) scan of the Base/Saball Pawtuckaway guide.
As before, the guides can be found at http://www.mediafire.com/Basilisk613
Glad everyone's enjoying these. The Cannon guide now has 100 downloads! Remember this isn't just about NH, I'm sure everyone would appreciate history from around the globe. Just send me an email and I'll post it up Basilisk613@gmail.com (The email I gave a few posts up has a typo. Please use this one instead. I can't edit that post anymore)
Please do keep us updated on Stonehouse!
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adamiata
Ice climber
Candia, NH
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Feb 19, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Yes, bump for more information on Stonehouse.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Feb 19, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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Climbed with the guy last night and forgot to ask, I'll be climbing with him this weekend and won't forget. Basilisk, thanks for posting those guidebooks, the swain book has stuff in it that I had no idea about. Anyone ever climbed in south berwick, maine. A couple good cliffs out there. Also, in New Durham there is another Devils Den that had some older development and is now seeing a second phase.
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Basilisk
Ice climber
New Hampshire
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2009 - 12:10am PT
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meclimber, any chance you could let us know where those areas are? Part of the reason I've been going through these old guides is for another project I've been working on. I'd love to include those areas if you don't mind. I just need directions and what type of climbing the area is. Feel free to post here or email me if you'd rather get a better idea of what I'm doing first. Basilisk613@gmail.com
Edit: also worth noting that the 1977 Notes on Joe English Hill has been uploaded
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 22, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
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Hi Basilisk, I'm interested in your comment re: the updating of the 1977 Joe English Notes. I climbed a reasonable amount with Paul's Duval and Niland and various other folks at Joe English in the late '70s into the '80s, and visited occasionally in subsequent years depending on the very varying access situation during that period. I have a set of privately published "notes" by Duval from sometime in that period but not sure of the date, so I'd love to see what you're referring to, and if it's different, send you a copy of what I have. I also know that we subsequently did a bunch of routes not included in those notes. Due to the "no bolt" (or few bolts placed free on the lead) ethic that we were adhering to at the time (how times have changed!!!!)and the absence of natural protection on most of them, these were mostly top-ropes. Some were of very good quality however. Doubt if I'd be able to resurrect where they all went or what we named them. Is Joe English currently accessible or is this just a matter of historic interest (with hope for future developments)?
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Feb 22, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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Meclimber, I currently live in New Durham, and was responsible for a number of unrecorded routes on that Devil's Den in the late 70's. I am a bit disappointed to see the current profusion of bolts, but understand that poop happens. There is another, methinks better, secluded cliff in New Durham as well. Not sure about access, but many stealth runs have proven fruitful.
BTW, I have the two issues of Appalachia from 1971 and 72 with a guide to Cannon routes in them, by Robert Hall, I believe. I can't currently scan anything, but would be willing to pass them on to the right person on loan, or else use the copier at work. I was the person who copied the Base/Saball Manchester guide for Christopher. I also have Duval's "Notes on Joe English," dated 10/20/78. Inside the front cover it states, "If you come to Joe English, we would appreciate your leaving your heinous bolt kit at home!"
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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Hi Edge, As I said in my previous post, that was the ethic of the day, and for a time Paul was a purist---though bolted routes--even rap-placed ones--already existed at Joe. But Paul's opinions changed over time and he eventually placed numerous bolts---yes, even on rap. The reality is that climbing ethics are constantly evolving---partly due to the nature of the rock available for new-routing. For instance, Joe English has lots of areas of very climbable rock with few crack systems or other options for natural protection. We chose the top-rope option---my default option of choice!!!! Another would be the gritstone headpoint approach--or onsight for the talented and bold, both very pure but unlikely to prove popular given Joe English's height and poor landings, and the general 'not put it all on the line for a mere rock climb' approach of most US climbers(myself included). Creating some good sport or mixed routes there in addition to the already existing mostly trad routes(always presuming access is available)would be yet another option. In my opinion it should be up to the local climbers to decide---with them giving due consideration to the area's climbing history.
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