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That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
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My partner and I did an early ascent of the Yuga. Great line, killer pitches, and a no-hands kneebar under the nose on the X-rated Snoopy flake!!!!!!!
PJ
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Lotta shizz comin' off that face, these days.
All over hell.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Damn, that spiced my Thursday night. How, on an FA of Half Dome, do you see something like this above you, looming and horrifying above you all day, and just barrel forward into it the darkness of the moth-f#cker???
I also saw some pics from your Trango expedition - I've had dreams about the 'wormhole' formations you photographed and climbed up there. I can imagine them right now, chilling in the dark and wind at the top of the world.
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wallruss
Trad climber
cali
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John, I still consider the Kali Yuga one of the best and challenging big walls climbs for me. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. RM
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 12, 2009 - 03:52am PT
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bump
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
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May 27, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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So in the second[?] photo, there's some guys on...White Room? and the Jet Stream?
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Jimmy S
climber
Granite State
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May 27, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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Very cool John, Thanks!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 27, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Love the photos.... Couldn't care less about the sequencing or the missing captions... I pieced them together in my mind... and made up anything I felt needed captioning...
Thanks for the photos... Great moments in sports!!!
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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May 27, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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I've been drooling too. Looks like folks on Promised Land and Jet Stream???
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 28, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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I hope it's hot, then.....Half Stone is a cold place.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Good one's! Nice to see Walt.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Here are four of the Deucie/Walt images re-pimped. Some really great historic images.
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wack-N-dangle
Trad climber
sincere condolonces
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Peter, I admire you keeping the memories alive for each other. Thanks for bumping this to the top and posting the pictures. Sometimes the Taco amazes me. It seems like a chance to sit in on conversations between sports stars. Kind of like the ones people pay huge money to see at trading card conventions.
Also,
http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/AMiddendorf.html
An aside: Once, I ran in to a guy at a crag. He put up at least one classic Valley aid line, as well as an A3 in the early 1990s. I laugh, because when I called him an aid climber, he responded abruptly that he was a free climber. I didn't laugh at the time, because I heard in his voice that he was serious.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Thanks for all the kudos.
Say, now that that one pic has been lightened up (thanks Peter), you can see a spot on my nose, reminds me when we racked up for that rig. Before the Kai Yuga, I hadn't touched big stone for many years, having turned snail eye after the south face epic (though I had been groveling up many technical desert spires), and was pretty nervous and excited about getting back into the multi-day steep.
Anyhow, I was taping up my big wall hammer with cloth tape, and at one point the tape broke suddenly as I was pulling it around the handle, and the pick of the hammer slammed into my face, gouging into the top of my nose, right between my eyes. I think Billy Joe Ruskell (the mammy nun), and perhaps Ned Flange Guy were there in addition to Walt.Those guys were laughing their heads off. Blood was everywhere. It was definitely a stitch job in any other life, but we had to start the hike to the base later that day. Still have the scar.
Hmm, thought of a great Walt story the other day that I was going to recount here, but it's slipped the mind. Will write it down next time...
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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FAT roof and sweet couple shots of leader heading into the sun...awesome man! Thanks for the share.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Boy that does bring back some good memories! Did the third ascent with Fred Berman. It stands out as my favorite wall climb. Every pitch was interesting and challenging! There was nothing super scary, but every pitch involved some head scratching.
The maw was a balls out lead! It seemed like Walt intended to climb all the way up into that thing, hoping to find a gear placement, and made it about 50' up in there before giving up and drilling. It starts out a fairly comfortable chimney, but gradually narrows until becoming awkward and painful. I can just imagine how he must have felt - knees and elbows burning - with no end in sight and the gaping bombay below, then fighting to drill a hole without being able to take a full swing with the hammer (probably using it sideways against the drill holder).
After dreading the Snoopy Flake all the way up, I was ecstatic to find that kneebar rest under the thin flake shown in the photos. It was mind blowing!
Thanks for sharing John. I miss Walt!
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Mimi
climber
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Missed this one. Good job Marty.
Glorious thread! Thanks John for the flood of historical pics!
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Chief
climber
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Bump for a great thread. Classic!
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