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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 27, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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Oh Deucey, you old skool, lo-tek, Ektachrome(?) shooter.....
that stuff is priceless!!!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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The Snoopy made Wheat Thin look like 5.4. I think Walt rated it 5.10+, but I could be wrong. Steep up there, and that flake is thin! There was a point or two where if Walt fell, the rope would have been cut like butter.
Kali Yuga: the fourth age of the Hari Krishna story, the age of "hypocrisy and quarrel". A name to depict the world as Walt was seeing it at the time.
I don't know much about the added bolts on the second ascent, I have heard a bit about it, but its all hypocrisy and quarrel anyway, so why add more? Though I must say I was amused at how the 5.13 climber BWP drilled on my 5.9 move after the scary "A2+" hook traverse. Both were pretty sandbag ratings. It wasn't a reach move, it was a scary mantle on a small ledge to avoid a rivet and spice things up during the creative process of establishing an aid pitch. (And me, only a lowly 5.11 yosemite climber at the time.)
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 27, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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Kali Yuga
During the present age, Kali-yuga, practically all desirable qualities will gradually diminish. For example, dharma, which indicates a respect for higher authority that leads one to obey religious principles, will diminish.
In the Western world, theologians have been unable to scientifically present the laws of God or, indeed, God Himself, and thus in Western intellectual history a rigid dichotomy has arisen between theology and science. In an attempt to resolve this conflict, some theologians have agreed to modify their doctrines so that they conform not only to proven scientific facts but even to pseudo scientific speculations and hypotheses, which, though unproven, are hypocritically included within the realm of "science." On the other hand, some fanatical theologians disregard the scientific method altogether and insist on the veracity of their antiquated, sectarian dogmas.
Thus bereft of systematic Vedic theology, material science has moved into the destructive realm of gross materialism, while speculative Western philosophy has drifted into the superficiality of relativistic ethics and inconclusive linguistic analysis. With so many of the best Western minds dedicated to materialistic analysis, naturally much of Western religious life, separated from the intellectual mainstream, is dominated by irrational fanaticism and unauthorized mystic and mystery cults. People have become so ignorant of the science of God that they often lump the Krsna consciousness movement in with this odd assortment of fanciful attempts at theology and religion. Thus dharma, or true religion, which is strict and conscious obedience to God’s law, is diminishing.
Satyam, truthfulness, is also diminishing, simply because people do not know what the truth is. Without knowing the Absolute Truth, one cannot clearly understand the real significance or purpose of life merely by amassing huge quantities of relative or hypothetical truths.
Ksama, tolerance or forgiveness, is diminishing as well, because there is no practical method by which people can purify themselves and thus become free of envy. Unless one is purified by chanting the holy names of the Lord in an authorized program of spiritual improvement, the mind will be overwhelmed by anger, envy and all sorts of small-mindedness. Thus daya, mercy, is also decreasing. All living beings are eternally connected by their common participation in the divine existence of God. When this existential oneness is obscured through atheism and agnosticism, people are not inclined to be merciful to one another; they cannot recognize their self-interest in promoting the welfare of other living beings. In fact, people are no longer even merciful to themselves: they systematically destroy themselves through liquor, drugs, tobacco, meat-eating, sexual promiscuity and whatever other cheap gratificatory processes are available to them.
Because of all these self-destructive practices and the powerful influence of time, the average life span (ayur) is decreasing. Modern scientists, seeking to gain credibility among the mass of people, often publish statistics supposedly showing that science has increased the average duration of life. But these statistics do not take into account the number of people killed through the cruel practice of abortion. When we figure aborted children into the life expectancy of the total population, we find that the average duration of life has not at all increased in the age of Kali but is rather decreasing drastically.
Balam, bodily strength, is also decreasing. The Vedic literature states that five thousand years ago, in the previous age, human beings—and even animals and plants—were larger and stronger. With the progress of the age of Kali, physical stature and strength will gradually diminish.
Certainly smrti, memory, is weakening. In former ages human beings possessed superior memory, and they also did not encumber themselves with a terrible bureaucratic and technical society, as we have done. Thus essential information and abiding wisdom were preserved without recourse to writing.
Of course, in the age of Kali things are dramatically different.
In the age of Kali brute strength (balam eva) will determine law and "justice."
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 27, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
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the sequence of walt in the "maw" is unreal!!thanks for sharing your memories. very cool
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jan 27, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Now, that's a Big Wall......The Fabled Half Stone....A Place fo' sho'....Magical, Deucey.
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Bruce Perschbacher
climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Hey John,
Thanks for even more superb photos, and climbing history.
Cheers,
Bruce.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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Favorite: The ol' leader was cluster effed, can't move, just dump the aider [on the yellow piece] and run for it shot!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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Yowza....That's when you gotta pull them bloomers up right now!
Get on it time.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
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Man;
That's the coolest.
Thanks
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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John: thanks for adding the commentary. Knew it was wildly overhanging Half Dome, but otherwise was clueless.
1974 or 75 seconded Leaning Tower and was gripped the whole way on my first big wall. Seldom led overhanging aid after that.
Way cool for us old farts to see the photos of stuff we could not comprehend leading. Fritz
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 12:29pm PT
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KaliYuga:
That one always had a rep as
being sketchy!
Thor
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 30, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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Bitchin' John....just bitchin'!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 30, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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Bonga bonga! An amazing journey up the big onion.
I crossed that thing once- it looked pretty thin, made me glad to be on the route I was on.
Half Dome kinda holds a lodestone power over people- interesting to hear of the intensity that it held for you and Walter as well. I can totally picture obsessing over the White Room, over and over...it makes a lot of sense up there.
Thanks Deucey!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Half Stone....The Great South Dome.
Crazy Place.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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any more?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Mike......Half Stone.
Hmmmmm.
Any thoughts that way?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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I must say that I keep looking at these "stellar"pictures of you and Walt on the Dome.
my favorite one is when he disappears inside the fangs.
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