Drill Sargant pulls bolts on Cathedral Peak and others

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Hawkeye

climber

State of Mine

Sep 10, 2006 - 10:18pm PT

resurrection?

the thread?

the bolts?

bob

climber

Sep 10, 2006 - 10:43pm PT

Hey Martin, good to hear a voice from down South. I'm not going to agree or disagree with you on Bill's actions, but I will say that for the 3 full years of TMeadows SAR and a couple part seasons I've been a part of we never depended on those bolts being there. In fact, during one specific instance I remeber the subject coming up before the team set out and we took the proper gear because we felt we couldn't depend on them being there. Just had to point that out. I'm not on SAR this year and maybe they have changed their ways. No se.
Coming down South soon to that wonderful place you're at. I'll stop in and say hello and we can debate. Tee hee. Hope all is well. Peace.
Bob Jensen
PS not the other Bob who has been posting if there is any confusion

Chefclimber

Trad climber

Northern Nevada

Sep 11, 2006 - 01:03am PT

Remember several years ago when th forest service wanted to ban all fixed climbing anchors in the backcountry? Did they have a point? I can't imagine the mess that would be left by all the bolt/chop/re-bolt jerks. If SAR had anything to do with placing these anchors, I have lost respect for them.

Wonder

climber

Sep 11, 2006 - 02:14am PT

November 13, 2003

NPS EMPLOYEES SAY PARKS ARE IN DANGER
Lieberman Says Heed The Voice Of Those On The Frontlines

WASHINGTON - Governmental Affairs Committee Ranking Member Joe Lieberman, D-Conn., issued the following statement Thursday in reaction to a Campaign to Protect America’s Lands survey of National Park Service employees:

"Two years ago, President Bush told the American public: 'Good stewardship of the environment is not just a personal responsibility, it is a public value.’ He specifically said he was committed to protecting the parks, calling them 'works of God.’

“The President has not lived up to his words. The results of this survey should be like an alarm ringing in our heads, telling us that the National Parks are being seriously endangered by this Administration’s policies. The people on the front lines are saying that conditions at parks are deteriorating, rather than improving. They are telling us that politics trumps science in decision-making. And they report that their work to protect the parks is being devalued by this Administration.

“According to the survey, 76 percent of Park Service employees rate NPS leadership as fair or poor, while 85 percent give a fair to poor rating to the Interior Department. Further, 88 percent expressed concern that Park Service decisions were influenced by politics and special interests rather than professional experience or science.

“The Secretary of the Interior and the Director of the Park Service should listen to park employees, who see on a daily basis, what is actually happening. The Administration must focus attention on the problems the employees have identified rather than catering to special interests that want to drill for oil beneath National Park Service administered lands or win a lucrative contract. The employees are people, who in the words of one survey participant are ‘more interested in the environment than in making a buck. We believe in the sanctity of the place, the need for wilderness as a healing salve for the soul...’ We must heed their voices if we are to insure the preservation and God-given beauty of these parks for future generations.”

God says " no more bolts "

Buddha says " It's all in you mind"

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Sep 11, 2006 - 10:54am PT

As of a couple weeks ago, to anwer that question, there were no bolts on top of Cathedral

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Arid-zona

Sep 11, 2006 - 12:57pm PT

The bolts were placed in late 1998 or early 1999 to replace the summit registry baseplate that had been shoddily bolted to the summit decades previously. People had started to rappel off of it, which was incredibly dumb and unsafe. The bolts were not placed on any SAR mission, though I believe that they WERE placed by a SAR site member on their own time, if I remember correctly, as part of the bolt replacement projects that we were all taking up in the Meadows at that time.

organism

Trad climber

san diego, california

Sep 11, 2006 - 01:04pm PT

Not sure what is better. Two bolt rap stations or ten vintage slings tied together into one big cluster @#ck eyesore. If you have ever bailed off this route for one reason or another you know what I mean.

Mazzystr

Gym climber

Homeless...

Sep 11, 2006 - 03:29pm PT

maybe his nuts should be chopped...

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Sep 11, 2006 - 04:23pm PT

Well Bill gets off the river this afternoon at Hite.
Why don't you take it up with him?

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Arid-zona

Sep 12, 2006 - 12:16pm PT

If you are using the bolts or there cluster on top then you aren't bailing off the route are you...you are finishing it.

Wild Bill

climber

Mar 13, 2007 - 12:25am PT

So what ever happened to the bolts? Did anyone re-bolt?

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Mar 13, 2007 - 03:08am PT

Not unless they did so very recently.

Apocalypsenow

Trad climber

Cali

Mar 13, 2007 - 04:02pm PT

Good job Bill (if it was you).

Rudy Rudotis DLFA

Big Wall climber

Barrington Hills, IL

Jun 30, 2007 - 09:55pm PT

Jackness now, jackness forever. I have rejoined the University in search for truth. I made the first ascent of Cathedral Point in Montana back in the late '70's with both Tom Duechler and Bill Russell. Through Friedrich Nietzsche and the existenialist view one can transcend petty bragging and take part in a "higher good". A good where the "style and the ethic" of the ascent is as important as the ascent itself. If you need bolts, God did not intend for you to climb there.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Jun 30, 2007 - 10:03pm PT

If you need bolts, God did not intend for you to climb there.
Well maybe lightning will strike Woody and I down now..

We were out in the heat today with Tucker and the Mayor.

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Jul 1, 2007 - 12:38am PT

Rudy, Cathedral Peak and Cathedral point (Beartooths-Stillwater drainage) ain't one in the same. I doubt very few here have ever heard of the Montana climb by that name--and now the proverbial cat is out of the bag, thanks for the spray jackness.

prunes

climber

Jul 1, 2007 - 01:27am PT

Would petty bragging to transcend to this so called "higher good" where the "style and ethic" is so important include lying about soloing a new route in the East face of Tewinot? If you need to lie about a route did god intend you to climb it? Get of Billy's back.

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Jul 1, 2007 - 11:03am PT

Mike.--secret classic ? Ever climbed in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness before ? Nearly all of the climbs in the AB described in guidebooks fit this description--not so secret; however, EVERYTHING not mentioned in the guide IS hush hush.

Montana's rock resources are so vast that the few climbers here barely make a noticable visible impact where the wilderness is concerned. I doubt flocks of out-of-staters are going to invade our state and start bagging wilderness FA's--they usually come up and buy a guide and stick to the "classics"--which consumes the rest of their time here.

If YOU are interested in being one of the few daring enough to explore and climb the ABs--come on up and look me up; I'll send you off on the climbing adventure of your lifetime.