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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Jan 18, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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Bring a helmet and wear it always while below or on route.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jan 18, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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is there really that much rock fall?
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Jan 18, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Ive been there a few times and always stayed at Homero's. Great bunch of people for sure! And eat at Checkos! I have to advertise for him for life because he and my girlfriend surprised me with a Carrot Cake on my birthday.
If you want to save money and take it easy, although driving isn't that bad. Take a bus from Laredo to Monterrey and take the bus from there to Hidalgo. You really don't need a car while you are there since you can hitchhike into town if its necessary and all the climbs are within walking distance. If you drive and don't want to take your car into Mexico you can leave it at the border. There is a place in Laredo where you can leave your car for about $8 a day. Its policed and well lit. We didn't have any issues.
As far as a helmet goes I would say bring one as well. Although its not because the rock is super loose but because there is bound to be someone above you. There are lots of routes and the popular ones get busy quick.
All you need is draws and a rope. Its true. If you buy the guidebook just for out for the nice one, its much easier to follow. Although it is still easier to follow while cross referencing with the other book.
Susan, there are some nice places at Homeros to stay. The house has a good kitchen and the Palapa is fun if there are more then one. Call down or email and chat with Milton, he'll hook you up. If you do tell him Kelsey from Alaska says hello!
Heres some photos if anyone needs a stoke:
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/North-America/Mexico
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TLloyd-Davies
Trad climber
Santa Clara, ca
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Jan 19, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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Helmet for sure, as other posters have said you will deal with rocks, cacti, and the occasional gear dropped on you. But always a good time.
I stayed at Posados, although barely slept a night as I posted my tent up next to what seemed to be a dog/rooster farm. By the time the dogs finally stopped barking at night the roosters would start. (Although my friends at Pagoda dealt with goats, so I guess you can pick your poison)
I only brought about 14 draws, but double that is nice for cragging so you can leave some on another route if you have a group, just be nice and share, don't hog the good routes.
Be careful rapping, it feels like every plant there is designed as a perfect rope snagger. Practice rapping while you let out coils one at a time, rather than throwing them all at once. This will help you avoid getting snagged.
Either way you'll have lots of fun!
Oh I forgot! Go to the hot springs. It was 200MEX for the ride (organize it with the people from Posada on a rest day, you can easily fill up a bus) and 130MEX to get in, but the facilities are fantastic, a big underground bathhouse that was really nice/fun. Plus the ride there has lots of cool scenery.
Oh, and just my 2 cents, I had a 60m and really didn't have much trouble on raps. Although is you have 70m, bring it.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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nice photos tlloyd and kelsey.
especially seeing the snakes and shrubbery on the routes.
so I'm thinking a 70, maybe 15 draws, bars, granola, coffee, helmet, ear plugs, no cell service but internet is available, tunage
am I missing anything? maybe an anti-venom kit? tweezers for the cacti?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 21, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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whats the cheapest airline to fly? and what does airfare run, around 500?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Jan 21, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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Joe, you'll need to buy about a dozen matching hand-tied ratty-ass yellow shoulder slings...
oh, wait.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 22, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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WooHoo ... SJC -> MTY, $283... 3 weeks comin' up 3/9!
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KitKat
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Feb 22, 2010 - 03:20am PT
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70m rope a must.
Bring extra climbing shoes- sharp limestone eats your shoes.
Get your tips ready- you dont wanna ruin your trip with blown out pads.
You do not need a car if you are only climbing at Potrero.
Yes, 25 quickdraws if you plan on doing the longer routes, as you will want to link pitches on the way up.
There is cell service there if you are willing to pay- AT&T charges $.50 a minute if you pay an extra $5/month.
Tami's is closed :(
Bring your own coffee unless you enjoy instant Nescafe.
Bring earplugs for the random late-night mariachi music.
Bring a helmet.
Both La Posada and La Pagoda have internet.
Fruits and vegetables are AWESOME- markets are Tues and Fri (the Friday market is a little further)
Eat at Delphina's in Hidalgo
Go to the hamburguesa house around the corner from Delphinas (Fri-Sun).
BUY SALSA FROM THE CHICHARRONE GUY AT THE TUESDAY MARKET. (He yells "Chicharrones!") Buy his salsa....
Eat the street food at the Hidalgo market...
Eat avocadoes, mangoes and papayas...
Rescue a dog...
Eat any candy coated in chilis..
Try to speak some Spanish- even if your Spanish sucks, at least try! It's common courtesy.
Enjoy the Mexican hospitality! The people there are SO WONDERFUL....
PS- Buy a Lucha Dore mask across the street from the Monterrey bus station and wear it while climbing. HAVE FUN!!!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 22, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
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gee whizz sounds like a nice place.
maybe i should visit some day..
kurt
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KitKat
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Feb 22, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
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Thanks for all the great routes Kurt! You need to come back and finish your project on the Outrage Wall!
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Feb 23, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
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good stuff
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