Discussion Topic |
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 19, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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This should smoke out a few trogolodytes.
The Chouinard version of the Whillans included in the question.
In my case, yes, from about 1975 to the mid 1980s.
And if you're STILL using one - get counselling. Soon. And a new harness.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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My partner, Bud, wore one for years. I thought he was crazy. Probably the best argument I've ever seen for a swami.
Aside from the obvious danger they posed to male anatomy, that single strand could really apply serious forces to the pelvis. I met a woman at JTree in an extended cast who had taken a long fall in one, gotten sideways, and had that strap fracture her pelvis right above the hip socket.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
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Yup, the classic Troll in the late 70s. Not as bad as the rumors have it. Wish I still had one for the collection.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Oh, yes. It was a big deal, too, since it wasn't tied. Seem to recall the leg loops snapped on to the waist belt.
Not sure how long I used it but I made the transition to something more modern in the late 80s.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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No, too expensive at the time. Besides, I just wanted to be like Stannard, Barber, Bragg, Dunn, Bein, Robinson, et al, so I used a 2" red tubular swami for years. Which, BTW, is still great for casual low angle cragging [i.e. Whitehorse slabs, Royal Arches, Snake Dike, etc] or long moderate alpine rock climbs.
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DonC
climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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yep, first harness I wore.
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Yeah, I still do...it's great for winter climbing.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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I wore it once.........what a poor design.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
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(I'm thinking that this whole thread is a Classic Troll.)
Nope. Never used one, and no one I ever climbed with ever used one either.
Never took a whipper on one either. And my bacon was never saved (many times) by one...
Never trusted those newfangled buckles... As a precaution, I took some 1" tubular and bar-tacked it around the waist so that I could tie an overhand-followthrough knot.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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I could tell by looking at it that it was just wrong, except maybe for women but probably wrong for them too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
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Is the bear catholic?
Does the pope ßhitin the woods?
of course! Time was when there weren't a lot of options.
I'll dig out a photo of Barrybro using one on Deto in, '06(?)
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Lorenzo
Social climber
Oregon--formerly DC area
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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I used one - once. took a fall and went back to my 2" tube webbing Swami.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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I always thought this was Whillans's cruel joke on lame climbers who would consider falling. Never even tried one on. Know some guys who used 'em and now sing soprano.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:27pm PT
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I started wearing one in the late 70s and used up to the late 80s. Damn fine harness for alpine climbing. I used to skipped putting the crotch loop through the waist strap and use a biner instead. Then I could drop the leg loops when nature called.
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Dec 19, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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On my second big wall my partner untied to do the deed and forgot to tie back in. Almost did a freefall from 1000+. I sewed a new harness with removable leg loops soon after.
Lets face it gear selection was so limited in the 70s
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 19, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Yeah, they look all wrong but ever since I took my second 50-footer in one (then I took it again) I was a believer. The only time I'd put the squeeze on my package was when I'd sink into it nice and slow, like rappelling or easing into a hanging belay. Falling was never a problem. maybe I just got lucky but... Whatever, I'm glad there are alternatives now but I'm glad I had one then.
Mal
BTW, I've spawned two kids since my Whillans days and both are more or less normal.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Dec 19, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Yes,worked fine, still have one.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 20, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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Our caving and climbing club had one. It was quickly scarfed by Pam as she was the only one of us who would dare to wear it.
Anders - check the soprano section in the choir for former users.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2008 - 01:10am PT
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Troll? Moi?
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Dec 20, 2008 - 06:42am PT
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I seem to recall hearing that in the movie The Eiger Sanction, Clint Eastwood was wearing one under his blue jeans during those climbing scenes where he is doing the first ascent(some of it on toprope) of a desert spire.
How kinky!
I never wore one myself. I was a 2 inch swami guy until the early 90's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8N-NRjchKc&feature=related
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 20, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Went from a swami to a white Whillans. My balls still hurt just thinkin' of that middle strap coming tight doing the major squeeze on one or the other!!!! Break yer back with a swami, or bust yer balls in a Whillans....oh dem were the days!. Still have mine tucked away with my Forrest harness that had a death buckle.
Peace
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Dec 20, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Here's a shot from '74 or so. Check it out!
Strap on Chouinard Crampons, Wool knickers, Whillians Harnes, Russ Anderson figure 8, Chouinard Tule Pack, Joe Brown Helmet, Chounard wood shafted Piolet, Chouniard Super Rope( kinda hard to tell)Super Guide Boots. Starting the U-Notch, North Palisade, Sierra. Sorry about the poor scan. The slide is long since gone and all I have is a bad photo.
Sumitted for your amusement.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 20, 2008 - 11:16am PT
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First harness I ever wore, thinking it must be an improvement over a swami. It wasn't. After my first fall, I thought: "You know, someday I might like to have kids." And it was back to the swami.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Sorry, family dinner last night.
"Before I get really ornery" - And how, pray tell, will we tell that the birthday gal has so metamorphosed? :-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 20, 2008 - 11:51am PT
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Whillans harnesses were great... Well compared to no harness. No package issues at all. My only problem was that when I hung for very long one of the leg loops would dig into a nerve on my inner thigh.
This is a shot that will eventually get posted in Anders' "Squamish in the Dark Ages" thread. Whillans harness, with me in it, on the Tantalus roof
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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I was top roping with Clance a couple of weeks ago and he STILL uses one.
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OTCGENO
Trad climber
CALIFORNIA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
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NOPE, USED A 2" SWAMI FOR YEARS UNTIL CHOUINARD CAME OUT WITH A HARNESS (JUNK). EVENTUALLY I BOUGHT A ALPINE BOD HARNESS (BETTER, BUT STILL CRAP). NOW I USE A PETZL GURU (COMFORT AT LAST!).
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Dec 20, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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I bought one as a 16 year old in 74' for my first wall. What a mistake. On my first aid lead ever, an over driven pin in an expanding flake spit me out. Ended up upside down staring at the valley floor. Never used it again after that climb.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 20, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Lars are you serious? You still use one?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Absolutely not!! I gave up my Whillans 25 years ago. It would take someone as demented as Chuck Clance to STILL use one.
Cheers
lars
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 20, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Ahh I reread that...my bad. How is Chuck these days? Last I saw him his ankle was pretty f*#ked up.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Dec 20, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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Don’t know what those pictures are of but this is a Whilans harness... On a pair of short shorts
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Maldaly, if you were one of my dirtbag climbing partners and made this statement about your kids, I'd be likely to ask, sure you're the dad?
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
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I can't say I agree with Fattrad on much, but he is right on this point. Skipped the Whillans and went with the Forrest. Still have parts of it around here somewhere.
I remember back in the day stopping at Bill Forrest's shop in Denver. Saw it from the freeway (Big logo painted on a building) and stopped in. I really liked his equipment. In some ways I think he was ahead of his time. Good quality for the day and robust.
Anyone still have a forest hammock?
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 21, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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The summer camp I learned to climb at (1987?) had a few, so I hung in one enough to really appreciate the legloops in my first harness...
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Dec 21, 2008 - 02:35pm PT
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Whillans harness:
Kullaberg, Sweden, 1985. Falling
Kullaberg, Sweden, 1985. Me
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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Chris2-
Chuck Clance is on his way to Josh as we speak. I spoke to him yesterday and upon regarding the weather forecast his reply was, " damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead".
Yes his ankles are FUBAR, but then so are mine. Chuck, to his full credit, climbs better than he can walk on level ground.
Best,
lars
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 22, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Who hasn't? (noobs excluded..)
MP on one of countless teenage waste missions...1975.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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Hi!!!
I'm an italian climber, and i like this kind of harness.
In Italy we has a Zanella that produced this harness but today is closed....
Do you know if it's possible to buy this kind of harness today?
thank you and excuse me for my bad english
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 11:25am PT
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It sure seemed better than a swami
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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oh, snap, I think I just figured out that the old Chouinard white harness was based on or like the Whillans.
crap, does that mean I'm older now?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 13, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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I think the Whillans was the inspiration for many fast wall ascents back in the day. As if you had to hang in that bitch for very long, you just wanted the hell out of there. Oh the pain and the numb legs and bruised kidneys.
and the Italian guy wants one? They were made by Troll I think, but no longer. They should have came with whips and chains. I remember when I got one I was so stoked. Dropped my old handmade harness like a hot potato. Man we were styling with the Rugby shirts, EB's, Whillans harnesses, and bandanas. Damn straight, back in the Day.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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This kind of harness is very easy to use in mountaineering... with ski or crampons... and you haven't the problem of regulation...
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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May 13, 2009 - 11:40am PT
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Actually, I never did use one, and, in fact, I've never seen
one in use except in photographs.
I guess my sort of dropout phase matched up perfectly with the
Whillans window.
When they were introduced I was using a tied 1" harness that
worked great.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I used that harness for 15 years... with some great fall( 1 in pichenibule, verdon... 25 meters...) without problems... now my harness is very tired.. but i like this!!!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 13, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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One time, thought it was ghastly, went back to swami...
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Mattq331
Mountain climber
Boulder
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May 13, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Of course - there really wasn't much choice (at least in the UK) in the 70's.
And Mal is right on - they only became nut crushers when you rapped or hung from it without checking the package first. I never noticed it during falls.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Mungeman: Yes, I think the design of the Chouinard harness was derived from that of the Whillans. The Whillans appeared (commercially) in 1972 or 1973, the Chouinard a year or two later. The designs were fairly similar, apart from the crotch strap bit.
I used the Whillans harness through the 1970s and early 1980s, took a fair number of falls, and didn't have any problems. It was helpful to have a belay seat for hanging belays, though.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 13, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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I had one in the late 70's and early 80's and survived a few small falls in it. Even managed to have children after using said contraption.
Cheers,
Doug
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matisse
climber
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May 13, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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my first harness. it is still out in the garage somewhere.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 13, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Bought one, put it on, noted the route taken by the central strap, and went back to my good ol' swami. But my gf liked it:
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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May 13, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Whillians..1975
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 13, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Bought one in Australia around 1970. Took about an 80-100 foot fall ripping a long A4 pitch in the valley a year later. Guess I was lucky since I later had 2 kids! I eventually wore it out.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 02:58am PT
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My first harness was also a Whillans. As others have noted, the design wasn't as bad as some assume--assuming you lean back and don't fall standing straight up.
Curt
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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May 14, 2009 - 08:49am PT
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Big improvement over the swami for rapping. I never took a lead fall in one, I didn't want to join the Vienna Boys. Racking on the harness was way ahead of it's time.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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HI!!
yesterday I have bought a "alpine bod" harness(black diamond).
It's an evolution of a donwhillans harness.
The first impression is good! Very light, easy to wear, not very expensive(but that is'nt very important for a climbing harness!!)
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clemay
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I did once and my left nut still hasn't forgiven me for it.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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(With voice at a high pitch shrill) "YES!"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Are some of you implying that the designer, otherwise known as the creator of cross-training, didn't have the qualities to 'sack it up'?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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It was my harness on the Nose in '83
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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BBBBST.
BB bumpin' for a better ST
Tami, are you ornery yet? :0)
I'm 49 now. You got one more year of starting troll threads before I get really ornery.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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I got one in '74 or so. I traded a bunch of beer to Chouinard rep Tex Bossier (the late he) for a shopworn tradeshow demo model he was bringing back from a trade show in Chicago or somewhere. It was a little grimy from trade show fingering, but it looked like hot stuff to me. I used it for a decade or so, maybe longer, taking the odd flyer and sitting in it for lots of rappels. I don't recall any particular genital damage, and I seem to have managed to spawn a child since then. But I do remember that it felt pretty awful during rappels, like I wanted to rotate briskly backwards when hanging free in the Whillians. A disturbing feeling. The worst time was when I was on the gaily free-hanging last rappel out of Behunin Canyon in Zion, when my shirt-tail got stuffed into my rap brake big time, and I was air-beached there 120 feet above the Emerald Pools, panicking trying to stay upright while I labored on the fused glob in the brake. Ick. I still don't like rappelling, but my newer harnesses seem to be less rotationally wacky.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Yep. They work.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yep....Joe Brown helmet to, I'm glad that technology has moved to better (MUCH BETTER) gear. I've never had the slightest bit of nostalgia about old gear....mystifies me that so many do.
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soaring_bird
Trad climber
Oregon
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Had friends who used the Whillans harness in the late 70's, but I bought the Forrest harness instead.... very glad I did as it was very comfortable. I think the Forrest was a much better design.
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carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
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1977/80... Whillans harness and terrordactyl hammer (Sierra de Gredos. Spain)
1990 ..... Whillans harness (Alps. Droites Ginat)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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We were all good friends with Rich Lake in that era and he sewed us all swamis that were like the waist of a harness with loops on each end to tie the rope into. Saved us all the horror of using a Whillans.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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My friend Brent Ash and his brother were climbing on the Mt Baker glacier , they crossed a snow bridge then simultaneously fell in crevasses on opposite sides of the bridge. They hung there for a considerable time before being rescued, Brent in his Willans harness .
He actually severed his urethra! The worst pain he had ever endured, only bested by the first time he had to pee.
I threw mine away in 1975 after climbing Red Shirt on Yamnuska. I was stoked after freeing the 5.8 bolt ladder only to be terrified on the next overhanging pitch after my partner took great glee in telling me" just last week, a climber on lead, slipped out of his Willans harness on an upside fall, and plummeted 600 ft to his death! " Probably an exaggerated story, but believable enough to scare the hell out of me.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Apr 15, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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Rolfr's story is pretty horrible, I never thought that would happen...
Liked mine well enough, sure beat a harness made of webbing. Easy on and off was nice.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Apr 15, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
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yes, still got it
also got two sets of Joe Brown nuts and gave one set to Royal for our second ascent of the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinel
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Apr 16, 2016 - 04:31am PT
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Bought one in 76. Went from the rope just being tied around my waist to one of these bad boys.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 16, 2016 - 05:49am PT
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I was wearing a Whillans Harness in 1971, when I took a 100ft+ fall on Washington Column. I zippered an entire A4 pitch.
I was lucky in many ways, since when the rope came tight, I was partly upside down. I remember a pretty violent jerk, as the rope caught me, whipping me around upright. My back hurt for a while, but I wasn't hurt.
I was lucky I didn't lose any crucial gear, or my private parts, and was able to finish the climb. I discarded the harness a few years ago. I was amazed how small my waist must of been back then, since I couldn't even get the harness half way around my waist, when I tried it on a few years ago, just before I threw it away.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 16, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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Steve, I don't recall you having any parts back then that could be called private......seems to me you shared said parts with many a comely lass.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 16, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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Anybody have a picture that actually shows the thing? Mr. Fielding I think your hexes are slung too short
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Apr 16, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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They were ubiquitous back in the day.
1975 Somewhere opposite Asgard.
Steve
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 16, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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Oh, just bight me, Dwain.
Ab just seilin'.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 16, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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I know I had one for a while. I'm not sure if this is it. Right color, but it might be some Chouinard rig from back then too.
I'm sure someone here can set me straight.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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A new old Whillans harness.
There's surely someone out there who knows who Elaine, AS and EB (see the third photo) are...
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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ONCE ! The swami was better..
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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My partner, Bud, wore one for years. I thought he was crazy. Probably the best argument I've ever seen for a swami.
Aside from the obvious danger they posed to male anatomy, that single strand could really apply serious forces to the pelvis. I met a woman at JTree in an extended cast who had taken a long fall in one, gotten sideways, and had that strap fracture her pelvis right above the hip socket.
Yep, never wore one because of horror stories like the above.
First harness I had was a Forrest sewn swami with leg loops; wore a swami until then.
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Al Barkamps
Social climber
Red Stick
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Had a Whillans "special ops" harness....all black webbing. It all added to that special fear of falling off those Clogwyn foxheads. Wearing a Joe Brown bucket made no sense back then....why would you want to be conscious of such pain after falling?
Probably the only instance of safety gear that made soloing sensible.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Yes, I was a proud Whillans user, particularly for Alpine at the time. I just poked thru some slides and see myself rock climbing in 2" tube swamis, easy snow and glacier bowline on a coil, but Whillans was my go to for early Alaskan expeds and winter Teton climbing. They were easy on w' crampons, had this very slick hip flap that allowed you to strap Dolt holsters on either side to hold tools for hammer and mixed climbing. They also jugged Alpine terrain quite well, in my opinion, not so much vert rock. Key to the Whillans was it's 3 point tie in backing up the buckle closure. First buckle harness I ever trusted.
I'd add a pic of my Whillans in action on Mt Hunter South 73' but it's just a Kodak slide for the moment...I do recall taking 2 rather long falls due to fixed line/iced rappel misshaps, flying upside down 60-80' before being snapped back upright, luckily each time on icefields. Weren't the most comfortable but did the job!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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One interesting aspect of the tag that Marlow posted above is the "Whillans Whammer" multi-use hammer in Don's hand on Annapurna South Face the expedition for which the Whillans Sit Harness was designed by the man himself.
The space age Whammer is surely one of the rarest hammers ever made as it never caught on commercially. I've never seen one beyond this photo.
The funny thing is that the Whillans harness was really designed for expedition use while jumaring with loaded packs and wearing heavy clothing and wasn't really designed for technical rock climbing and long roped falls.
It was one hell of a good nutcracker though! LOL
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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No problem with the Whillans' center strap--if you were bouldering...
Curt
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Steve- didn't whillans design a lot of the stuff for Annapurna in 1970 ? I know he did stuff before as well....The box tent was for patagonia i believe??
i climbed in a swami, sometimes with leg loops for quite a few years..first actual harness was a Fish "Sham Pelt" awesome 'cause it didn't have buckles
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Yes, Don designed the Whillans Box shelter too along with the Whammer and Sit Harness. Those are the only three gear items that I am aware of.
I think that you are right about the Whillans Box being tested in Patagonia ahead of Annapurna. The Box got used on the International Everest Expedition too and then it seems like it faded from use as wand tents got better.
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kief
Trad climber
east side
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Steve — There were "refinements" of the Whillans Box being used as late as the 1975 Everest SW Face expedition though. I lent a hand at Base Camp for a while (due to speaking Nepali and knowing Annie Haston) and I helped divvy up the guts of those behemoths into Sherpa loads. Each one weighed around 250 pounds. Hamish MacInnes had bulked up the original design to better withstand rockfall and there were kevlar shields meant to deflect avalanches. By all accounts they were devilishly difficult to assemble and I imagine that was their last hurrah in the Himalaya.
As far as the harness goes I'd join in the "Didn't everyone?" response. I know we moved a lot of them at the Curry Mountain Shop when I worked there in 1977. Mine was one of the Troll iterations but we might have been selling the Chouinard branded ones at the shop.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yes, I climbed in a Whillans harness, and so did a lot of us in the 70s. You want proof?
The full story is here: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Climbers-save-their-country-Yes-this-is-damn-on-topic/t11830n.html but these pictures tell at least part of the Whillans story.
Peter Croft in a Whillans. He's at the top, and below him are John, Peder, and Ryan. All in Whillans,
Me taking repeated falls for the camera in a Whillans. Laugh if you want, but it saved our country.
Tami Knight in a Whillans
John Howe in a Whillans
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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May have been said already but the tie in point on the "W" rig is way way too low.
Caught my partner wearing one of those things on a first pitch 30 footer and he flipped upside down. I caught him with his head about 7 inches off the deck and his shoulder gear sling rack was on the ground.
BTW I had anchored to the ground for the belay and was suspended in the air after taking in 1.5 lengths on his way down on my hip belay.
It took me many years to switch from my swami to an actual harness. Even though swamis are really painful to fall on and suck, at least you fall right side up.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 14, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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Troll two piece sit harness
From the instruction below:
This superlative and very strong two piece sit harness has been developed by Troll to give the last word in comfort and versatility. Its design is a natural progression from the original Troll MK1 and MK2 harnesses, which were broad waist belts with attachments for leg loops, and date back to 1964/5 - The first Harnesses in the UK.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 14, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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Last time I used mine, I was hanging upside down two feef from the ground. When I was able to stop shaking, I took it off and that was it. Still got it though.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 14, 2018 - 02:01pm PT
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So the comfort was a bit overstated... ^^^^
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 14, 2018 - 02:10pm PT
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Don’t feed the troll!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 14, 2018 - 04:41pm PT
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Yes...the harnesses available today are light years ahead in nearly every way.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Mar 14, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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It ain't the harness on the climber. It's the climber in the harness.
Used a whillans many a time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
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Yes! I wore out three of them! In three seasons! In Vedauwoo!
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Mar 19, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 19, 2018 - 07:19pm PT
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Young uns don't know how good they got it.
Can you imagine wearing a Joe Brown helmet again?
Or one piece itchy wool long underwear and wool knickers for alpine?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 19, 2018 - 10:52pm PT
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Joe Brown helmet was essential, for the little appreeshiated Swedish head lock...
“Arne, the akvavit is going bad, could ya get a move on?’
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Robb
Social climber
Aloft on the wings of grace
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Mar 19, 2018 - 11:26pm PT
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Prolly been said, but it taught me not to fall :(
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Mar 20, 2018 - 02:09am PT
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We all used them...
Even Jimmy Jewell - when he actually used a rope, that is:
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