Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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Messages 961 - 980 of total 1125 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Dugald's Route Right deserves an image of the man:

Dugald Bremner following a LC lead at the CWM. <br/>
Dugald was such a tal...
Dugald Bremner following a LC lead at the CWM.
Dugald was such a talented climber, skier & boater.
Pushed the envelope in all three sports.
RIP amigo.
Credit: pk_davidson

One sad day...
One sad day...
Credit: pk_davidson
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 20, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Great shots there Davidson.

The kid at Baxter's Banquet looks an awful lot like me, the age and year look about right too.
Unfortunately I was not born into such esteemed climbing bloodlines.




Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon
Credit: drljefe
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 10:33am PT
Thanks for the history, pk_d!

What? No love for Winslow Wall?

Winslow Wall on Clear Creek
Winslow Wall on Clear Creek
Credit: MisterE
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.

Nice nostalgia shots!

Winslow was dreamy back when only a dozen folks knew about. If you saw something, it would be there waiting next visit. LOL
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Paul, Great shots. Thanks for sharing. Are you climbing in a 1" swami? You are burly!

Dugald was amazing athlete, a thinker of breadth and depth, and a fine heart. He and people of his ilk inspire us to be more.
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
Murry , is that you hucking that large pole? Nice! cheers!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:50am PT
Supposed to be upper 70's this weekend.

Credit: drljefe
Gonna go climb and replace some bolts on The Big Sleep.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:59am PT
Saw a REAL nice waterfall ice formation just above the Dairy Queen in Oak Creek Canyon this morning. It looks bad ass!!! Need to find an interested party. It really passed the looks test today....but it IS Arizona and things change. Any info appreciated from all you old crumbs hanging around this thread or anyone interested in checking it out next Wednesday.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 4, 2013 - 12:22am PT
Credit: drljefe

new belay bolt
new belay bolt
Credit: drljefe

bolt replacement on pitch 3
bolt replacement on pitch 3
Credit: drljefe

Hopefully some folks climb this old, semi-obscure, wandering KR route.
There was old bail tat all over the place.
The oak that provided the belay at the top of pitch one is dead and loose.
We added one bolt(pictured) at that ledge.
The belay at the top of the second pitch is in an exposed alcove with marginal gear and a missing pin. We added a bolt.
The third pitch starts with an exposed traverse with crap gear(another reason that belay should be safe), and continues to a spinning 1/4 in buttonhead. This was replaced.
It should be noted that my partner was friends, and climbed this route, with KR before his untimely death.
bob

climber
Mar 4, 2013 - 01:07am PT
RAD Jefe. Nice one.
Pete Hill

Social climber
cal
Mar 4, 2013 - 04:00am PT
Back in the 80's. Which is far enough back that I don't remember the exact year. A strange piece of metal got plugged into the top of Pinnacle Peak's main summit. At the time there were a bunch of bolts and chains. Plenty of anchors for getting seconds up and rapping back off.

The hunk of metal was marked, as I remember, "Omni directional belay and repel device". This was a pie plate of metal 6 or 8 inches in diameter with holes drilled all the way around the rim, welded to a 1" steel rod that had been drilled into the summit rock.

A friend and I thought this was just an outrage. If outrage can be capitalize, I supposed this was a small o outrage. We decided that this just had to go. So early one morning I went over to my friends house with an expedition pack and we loaded up two gas tanks and all the stuff that a cutting torch requires. As I remember the tanks were big enough that the regulators stuck out the top of the pack and heavy enough to buckle my knees.

As we climbed the pitches up to the top of the peak I distinctly remember a a silence around the vulnerability of the regulators poking out of the top of the pack. As I was the one carrying the pack I was acutely aware, OK later I became acutely aware, that there was no conversation around the fact that a good bump to the top of the pack could have sent me on a rocket ride to the bottom of the peak. Such is the beauty of youth that the important details you only find out later.

It didn't take long to cut off the offending, though probably very convinient repel anchor off the top of the peak.

For year after the "Omni directional repel device" with a bunch of angle pitons was part of the door bell in a local Phx climbing shop. Till the day the shop closed no one ever raise a complaint about the anchor being torched off of the summit of Pinnacle Peak.

The sins of youth.

Pete
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Mar 4, 2013 - 10:29am PT
A world class crag is quickly developing in Arizona as The Waterfall continues to get 5-star new cracks and bolted aretes put up. That place is absolutely amazing and keeps getting better. It's like the forks on steriods. Lots of 30 or 35 meter pitches, hard climbing, and great friction. It also has it's share of bold leads. What will one day be the hardest trad climb in Arizona is there, someone just needs to get it done.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Ah Steve, one can never fool you!
Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.

Except, that was Haisley. Not sure how we talked him onto that route!

E - I'll have to find some Winslow pics. I don't think they were scanned yet.

Speaking of Haisley and Duggie, from Jim's wedding.
The lovely Jane Bremner (at the time)
Only time I've seen Scotty in a suit!
Jane and Scott.
Jane and Scott.
Credit: pk_davidson

And Jimmy hisself:
3rd or fourth ascent of Earth Angel. <br/>
Jim Haisley wearing the Grossma...
3rd or fourth ascent of Earth Angel.
Jim Haisley wearing the Grossman 1" swami.
Credit: pk_davidson

Frank's Wall:
Early gym daze
Early gym daze
Credit: pk_davidson

2nd ascent of Mooses Butte:
No fall zoning here...
No fall zoning here...
Credit: pk_davidson

FA of Pegasus:
Talked Haisley into leading through the junk so I had a TR up to the s...
Talked Haisley into leading through the junk so I had a TR up to the steeps :0
Credit: pk_davidson
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Too much good stuff:

Credit: MisterE
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Paradise Lost, from the day of the FA:
Credit: pk_davidson

Credit: pk_davidson

Reloading....
Up over the crux, lowered to pull the rope and do a quasi-clean ascent...
Up over the crux, lowered to pull the rope and do a quasi-clean ascent. Tim Coats gave it shot and pulled through to the top...
Credit: pk_davidson

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
From the FA (Davidson/Fleming) of Magical Mystery Tour at the Overlook.
I think this might have been Flag's first 5.11
(at least on the lead)

This was the last climb John and I did together at the end of a climbing trip circa summer 77 or 78.
ohn then moved off to Albuquerque, where we climbed together a fair bit
for a few years before he left for the Seattle area.

He returned to Flag for one awesome day when we did the Overlook Gridle.
I'll post something downstream.

Wasps and questionable flake keep the ascents down. <br/>
I would never re...
Wasps and questionable flake keep the ascents down.
I would never repeat this. To an old fart, that flake looks too dangerous, even though it's been hanging in space for a very long.
Credit: pk_davidson

Phil Gleason's Right Elephant at Elden had been TR'd much earlier and it's at least 5.11.
When led as Red Asphalt in '77, it comes very close to being 5.12, if not 5.12
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
The Grand Master of Flag

Scott Baxter rapping off Bill Williams Monument.
Scott Baxter rapping off Bill Williams Monument.
Credit: pk_davidson
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Second or third ascent of Tralfamador at the CWM

Davidson...
Davidson...
Credit: pk_davidson

Grossman pulling the roof, circa '76
Grossman pulling the roof, circa '76
Credit: pk_davidson

Young Mr. Steve finishing it up. <br/>
 <br/>
FYI - I believe these are Larry ...
Young Mr. Steve finishing it up.

FYI - I believe these are Larry Coats (LC above) photos.
Credit: pk_davidson
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Thanks everyone for getting this to 1000!
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