Discussion Topic |
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This thread has been locked |
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 2, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
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I think I had one picture here somewhere...now where did that darn thing go?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I think I've only climbed at Camelback in Phoenix.
I'm missing out huh...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Too bad Arizona is so close to California;.....
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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There it is - - Yeah, Todd, if it were Ohio, well...
The Doctor on a recent FA:
HiDesertDJ on a second ascent at Le Petit Verdon:
Dreaded Dresdoom:
Into The Wild, 10 pitch arete:
Cody At The Doctor's Office:
PennsylEnvy at The Doctor's Office:
Clayman on the Mace slackline:
My FA of Sun Dogs:
Ok, now I'm being NAZcentric...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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But it's a dry heat....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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In Arizona, it's illigal for donkeys to sleep in bathtubs....
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Except for the Beardsley boulders, and the Bolus, and that new route I never finished at So mtn, Az bites.
well maybe The forks, and supes, (Esp greater Zonerland/land of Nod),and the mine area, Jaccuzi spire, Pinnacle peak (esp deliverance) And the forks and the Draw, and other parts of the Mcdowells where they still allow climbing, and various hush-hush areas along the Mogollon Rim, and Jacks, and the pit, Canyon Diablo, Walnut canyon, the Granite Dells, Granite Mountain, Mt Lemon, the Stronghold, Sedona, the overlook, the winslow wall, that stuff by stafford(?), all kinds of weird sh!t in the Desert, the Grand Canyon, the rez, and a bunch of places I have forgoten, really, what is there?
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
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Todd,
that's a good laugh. As always great pictures. I think I can add to this thread. Viva Arizona!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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In Arizona, seatbelts make pretty good branding irons....
People put on jackets when it gets below 95 degrees.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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In Arizona, hot water comes out of both taps...
In Arizona;...the trees whistle for the dogs...
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Guidebook prehype detected.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Arizona uniform;...shorts, sandals, and a tank top;....(year round)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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In Arizona;..your car overheats before you start it up....(that was the last one....)
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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If i get the gig in AZ id love to get out and climb some of that!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread has legs...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I wanna see pictures of the Superstitions.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Cilley on Improbability drive, Granite Mtn, attempt;
Richard shoup, native 'zonie (I think) @ the Bolus, Camelback,Phx
Raypole working on something almost near Crown King, or somewhere
Steve Smelser, and some guy who used to have too many portaledges,
@PBC#4
Alobar
at the time of this shot these guys (yo, y Dennis McMahon) were 'Zonies, though this is slightly north of the border, behind the Zion curtain; on top of Moses
Somewhere near the North Rim
Couple of 'Zonies stirring it up in Josh,
Natalie ( A native Pheonician) and Alobar two weeks after moving to Galena Nevada from Tempe;
Zillions more awaiting hosting...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Here ya go Tarbuster... Superstitions...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Granite Mountain - best crag in the US that nearly nobody goes to.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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And don't forget, AZ now has the top sushiman,
Nature again!
Woo hoo!!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Coffeepot Rock, Sedona
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Paradise Forks...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Queen Creek...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mount Lemmon...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Pinnacle Peak...
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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so Jay, was the photo with Alobar w/ frisbee in the mouth the one time he was not barking while awake?
Klondyke is the wall near safford, an ultra steep version of Granite mountain. There is more rock in the range (santa teresas) than Joshua Tree but takes hours to get to any of it.
to all the others, 99% of my stuff is on slides and I have nothing cool to post.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 09:57am PT
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Thanks Mike!
Great pictures, everyone!
Lake Watson Dells:
Elcapinyoazz at Mt Lemmon:
Nature at Mt. Lemmon:
The Crew:
Jacks shots:
Isolation aka Manny's Playground:
Mike and Dave at Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold:
Amazing concentration of excellent climbing at Paradise Forks:
Busy Winter day at The Planetarium:
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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I love the stronghold! wish I had a scanner since my pics are so oldschool. Magnus coloradas
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You got lots of friends Murry.....unless you did something unfortunate with your hairstyle again!!
Great thread! Time to go dig into the old slidebox!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Note 5.11 OW in the shadow on S-monk's Coffeepot rock shot.
Clearly Rick remembers Alobar (first dog in the Labyrinth).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I gotta get out to the Superstitions.
No wait, Granite Mountain first...
This thread needs more pictures.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Tar - A comparison for ya...
Granite Mountain is a world class area, with wonderful rock, awesome cracks and gorgeous natural lines up to around 450 feet. Only open between July 15th and Feb. 1st each year because of falcon nesting bans. It was even named one of the top ten crags in the US in an issue of Mountain Magazine (1985?).
The Superstitions are world class desert beautiful, with roaring silence, questionable rock (most places), 30+ year old bolts, and adventure climbing up to five pitches or so. Open year round. Bolting absolutely prohibited.
Not pimping either place too hard as I love climbing in either for somewhat different reasons. I'd give you the tour of either place. Come on down!
J-brah: I have a much closer shot of that offwidth, although drawing the line at actually having been in it yet.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes nice comparisons, which I fairly well gathered...
'Would love to sort some things out here at home and get on down there with you.
Thanks for the invite!!!
Cheers,
Roy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread needs more pictures...
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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I need to get a scanner. I'll see if I can do some uploading at work.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Arizona is an amazing place.. And you should be totally greatful MisterE...
Great shots, amazing shots!!!
Thank you for taking me there, if only in my mind!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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The Steel Monk speaks truth Roy. Just the supes & GM would be enough, if you're down with heat.
Paradise Forks is your kind of place,
and the wind cried, Tarby...
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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TarBaby asked for it...
My next .11 project:
Chillin' in the constant shade of the Doctor's Office in July
All the "Free Refills" you can handle, The Pharmacy:
Secret Canyon! Don't tell anybody.
Sometimes the approach is an early crux:
Sure makes a cold one taste good at the end of the day:
Amazing hidden walls of rock:
and beautiful views from many climbing areas
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Serious wood, on that third one.
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mottaaa
Trad climber
tucson
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summit Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon
summit Table Dome, Mendoza
Elephant Dome
Potatoe Dome or "the potatoe", the bullet is to the right i believe
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nature
climber
Somewhere else....
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Oh come on E! The place is a choss pile... north, south, east, or west it's all junk.
I giggle when I think about the fact that I'm back in this state. I was up on Mt. Lemmon Sunday.
Come on down and visit and keep me company!
I'll post some picts soon.... I think I have one or two around somewhere...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Isn't that the Ev Mecham state? Why go there?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Nature said:
"Oh come on E! The place is a choss pile... north, south, east, or west it's all junk."
As a friend in the North cascades once said:
"Fine climbing for anyone not offended by loose rock."
Then I came up with "Chossaneering"
Fun, fun, fun!
You got a place yet down there? The Doctor and I, (and maybe Pennsylenvy) may come down for a visit...
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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They let all sorts climb in Arizona.
Crazy
Magical
Mutant Strong
Crimp Masters
Artists
People with Bad Hair
Wildman
Those who can lock off way low
Even former Californians
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Better watch out you dial-uppers!
Buncha stuff all over the place.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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A few more...I owed Tarbuster some Supes shots...
Peralta Canyon
Crying Dinosaur - free hanging rappel
Vertigo Spire
Weavers Needle with clouds
Zebra Agave
Carney Springs Wall
Razor's Edge - The Hand
Barks Canyon Wall
Another shot from Razor's Edge on The Hand - climber on the third pitch.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oh yes! The Superstitions!!!
I am wriggling in ecstasy.
Yes Jay: Paradise Forks is a no-brainer.
But, por moi, that was before "the problem" surfaced.
And shoot, then there's the matter of the Stronghold...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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And lest we forget things of general importance,
Arizona: that's where the Boss be hangin'...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Seems like this thread could use...
some more pictures.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice stuff Todd & Steel! Fine assortment of stone in AZ.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 12:16am PT
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Manny deep-water soloing
and room-mate Mike showing proper descent technique:
Clear Creek, Winslow AZ
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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That last photo looks like preparation for the screaming belly flop from hell!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Fig bouldering in the Cochise Stronghold.
Dave Baker and I at the base of Cripple Creek on the Pharaoh, early seventies.
Sparsely protected bridging on the FA of Devoid which starts from the north end of the Inner Passage and summits on Chay Desa Tsay. This wild route comes out of the notch shown below on the left and climbs the steep headwall to finish.
Photo from Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona, 1991.
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Thanks a lot everyone for all the unreal photos. Makes me proud to be a Zoner. More Grossman shots please (Cripple Creek aint no weenie roast!)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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..must turn away,
before S-monk,
and others,
draw me back in...
left forever (more or less) in '92.
But I've only been to isolation once,
and it was a new century,
It wouldn't hurt just to go back,
a little
would it?
And while I was there, I could...
Whatever happened to Fig?
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JMC
climber
Tucson
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Jaybro flash bump - 10 feet away from finding out how friggin' hard and weird Matricide is (filed away under teh "skeletons in the closet" folder.)
Mark on the Tombstone @ Cochise. Can't remember the name.
Arete on the Tombstone. Stiletto Arete I think? Goes up the right skyline of the previous picture.
Ram V. 5 feet of the ground at Middle Earth (Lemmon). Good lines here, though the rock always felt like it was seeping water. Waited out a monster T-Storm underneath The Breeze one day, then hiked out at warp speed over the lightning-rod ridge (2 people ended up drowning in Sabino Canyon during that storm.)
Pusch Peak. A good route by Jeff Mayhew on the thumb in the middle. Lot of untouched choss in the background.
Best for last - Mendoza Canyon. Meg on pitch 2, realizing that Elephantiasis is as serious as we thought it would be. Outstanding route, probably the best thing I climbed in my 2 years in Tucson. Runners-up would be Brian Benedon's routes in Pima Canyon and Table Mtn.
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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The Superstitions
From Grandfather Hobgoblin (borrowed from Eric Horst)::
Arizona Flyway on Mt. Lemmon:
Cat Scratch, or some "Cat" name 5.11 arete by AZ Flyways:
The Oasis:
Goose Head at Mt. Lemmon:
Knights of the Wrong Tissue at Mt. Lemmon:
Another from Knights (borrowed from Eric Horst):
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 11:20am PT
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Bump:
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dengar
Trad climber
Ottawa, Canada
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That's it I'm moving.....
can't stand the snow anymore :(
Dennis
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nature
climber
Somewhere else....
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dengar.... that's what I'm screaming.... or was!
I get to wear my flip-flops today.... and tomorrow... and next month.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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They have pretty harsh winters in Alb-Q?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Winter is harsh here.
I had to go mountain biking yesterday and it was ONLY 74 degrees!!!
Positively barbarian!!
Anyways... a little bump for the AZ love.
Syzygy, Overlook
Amateur Hour, Overlook
Isaiah, Overlook
5.10 start to Isaiah, Overlook
Terminal Vector, The Pit
Purple Shark, The Pit
Mr. Slate, The Pit
Coyote Tower, Sedona
Coyote Tower, Sedona
Dr. Rubos Wild Ride, Sedona
Al Steck on The Mace (@ the crux)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Last round...
Loafer's Choice, Pinnacle Peak
Brian in SLC on the South Crack, Pinnacle Peak, right before we nearly got "baned" for not getting out by 6pm (see watch).
Hard Drivin', Tom's Thumb
Look But Don't Touch, Tom's Thumb
Some route at The Pond, Queen Creek
Pocket Party, The Pond, Queen Creek
Lower Devil's Canyon
Big pit in the ground... I mean Oak Flat, Queen Creek
Tommy Caldwell at the last PBC, Queen Creek
FA at the Promised Land, Chino Valley
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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All ah Ya'all:
!!! What an outstanding run of SuperPhotos™
I don't have any pictures of Arizona.
But I just snapped this picture looking outside my kitchen window:
... now explain to me again why all you's are in AZ?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Current temp... 4:30.
A little cold, but we'll manage somehow...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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oh oh oh!!!
I climbed... I mean CRUSHED this route with my bare hands:
Will it still be there when I thaw out?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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yeah, we all got troubles, they still allow temps as high as 74º there? Yikes!
Nice stuff Greg, glad to see some purple shark love.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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It's not all fun and games... I think we broke our record for days over 110 degrees this year again. That just gets ridiculous after a while.
Tar - that sucka should be there whenever you're ready to pull down.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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I want to play, Nothing like the above pics but...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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I had the good fortune to live in Sierra Vista for 18 months and the Stronghold was my local area, ony 45 minutes to the Sheepshead parkig lot - Happy days. Once I figure how to upload photos, then I'll do so...........
Steve
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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So lets see if this works,
Here's the finger flake pitch on Abracadver....
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Eureka,
So firstthe crack leading up to the finger flake on Abra, Courtney Phillips leading...
Looking down the first pitch of Peacemaker on the Sheepshead..
The dinner plates on the Wasteland,
The first pitch of Cragaholics Dream...
More to come
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Somewhere on The Wily Javelina..
Looking Down the Long runout 5.6 pitch on the South Face of Whale Dome...
Seconding Pitch 2 on Dem Bones...
Pitch 2ish, on Whats My Line...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Some of Warpaint... Pitch four perhaps
and Looking down pitch five...
The descent into the bowels of the Rockfellows ater Days of Future Past....
High on the Sheepshead is a particulalry fine and exposed slab pitch....
And last a view of the magnificent Rockfellow Group - a hidden gem...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Two of Stampede on The Sheepshead; looking down pitch one...
And pitch two, the San Pedro valley and Huachuca mountains in the distance...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Blakey - love the photos, but can you resize those big thread-buster pictures?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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Bump for the recent:
today, 12/05/08 - a couple of good shots:
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Here are some images from an ascent (we did it two years ago) of the Odyssey on the Acropolis of the Superstitions. Pretty Epic place.... loose, run out, Bushwack.
Enjoy,Mike Esparza
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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From Summit Nov 1968 an account of the first big wall climb in AZ. My first one too, way back in highschool.
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
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This is only a test, if successful more to come....
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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Nice pin...
Nothing to see here..just a lot of loose rock...
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
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O.K. this is like a mini trip report from the last two days. Yesterday, I met up with Elma who was looking for a climbing partner on TOS. She is from Switzerland and was visiting family in Phoenix. I suggested we meet in Sedona.
.
Our first objective 'Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride' a classic Sedona moderate
Always a bit of yucca on a good Sedona climb.
Elma was a great sport and would put up with me pestering her to smile for the camera.
O.K.
so today we climbed another great Sedona climb 'Mars Attacks!'
The first pitch is cool friction
I stoked Elma up for leading the 2nd pitch traverse. A really great pitch!
She did fantastic...
Sedona can be very peaceful also
Ahhh where's a gud beer thread when you need one?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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3rd pitch of "luca and the fishes" 5.9x A.2+, east face babo first ascent fall 1989 (so this is post glass legs) yours leading, waugh at the 4 hour belay (only 66' off deck). You can see how weird the rock type is- I always compared it to french bread. A hook here, a head there, a pin there, couple hooks, a bashie in an eye socket...not straight forward at all.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Shitty shot, great route: First free ascent, Coatamundi Whiteout, Granite Mountain (1978??)
We did another route there called Gunsmoke that was quite a pumper on Hexes. No shots, unfortunately.
JL
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Cochise local...
Species Greenus Poopus Eatus, found only in AZ
Arizona pro
Another AZ local
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bob
climber
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Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Hey Bob. E mail me. Jefe Bret Harte
The Mountain IS special.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A little Prescott mood music from BITD.
Please don't dominate the rap, jack, if youve got nothing new to say.
If you please, don't back up the track this trains got to run today.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
I heard someone say better run away, others say better stand still.
Now I don't know, but I been told its hard to run with the weight of gold,
Other hand I have heard it said, its just as hard with the weight of lead.
Who can deny, who can deny, its not just a change in style?
One step down and another begun and I wonder how many miles.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
Things went down we dont understand, but I think in time we will.
Now, I don't know but I was told in the heat of the sun a man died of cold.
Keep on coming or stand and wait, with the sun so dark and the hour so late.
You can't overlook the lack, jack, of any other highway to ride.
Its got no signs or dividing lines and very few rule to guide.
I saw things getting out of hand, I guess they always will.
Now I don't know but I been told
If the horse dont pull you got to carry the load.
I don't know whose backs that strong, maybe find out before too long.
One way or another, one way or another,
One way or another, this darkness got to give.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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From Jim Waugh's Guide to Granite Mountain, 1982.
What a plum at 5.11-!!!!!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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DAMN, Grossman drops some Dead on us! HEY NOW!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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S.G. should recognize this quote-
"From every street and corner in Tucson we see the mountains...But of all the peaks and ranges that keep their sentinel posts around the Old Pueblo there are none so bold in the outlines of their granite heights and rugged canyons, so exquisitely beautiful in their soft colors of red and blue and purple, or so luring in the call of their remote and hidden fastness, as the Santa Catalinas." Harold Bell Wright, 1923
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Fickeroo™ style bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Where did you come across that HBW quote?
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Grossman- The quote came from the '85 Steiger guide to Mt. Lemmon and Sabino Canyon.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Dave Stephens on Ganja - 12d @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Matt Hulet on Ground Effects - 11c @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Sally on Slow Poke - 11a @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Louie Anderson on Speedy Gonzales - 11d @ The Homestead
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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Man, I SO want to go to the Homestead!
It's one of the undones on my Arizona checklist.
Thanks for the pics - the drive in sounds rough...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
--------
Hi Bob:
No preplacement - how would you do so on that arch, anyhow.
Right after Coatamundi Whiteout, I looked at Jump Back Jack Crack (looked stout) but we went for the new route instead - Gunsmoke.
Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.
Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.
We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker.
Wonder how folks do that thing these days with good shoes and a rack full of cams. Maybe it's only 5.11 after all.
Wish I could have stayed longer and bagged some other plumbs, but we only had the weekend. I thought Coat. Whit. was a fine route and the crag was a gem.
I always thought that Arizona had some of the greatest climbing and summits in America. I've always been jealous of the guys who first bagged all those desert spires and also of Todd Gordon who lived out there and climbed all that cool obscure stuff.
JL
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bob
climber
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Largo, I had five #4 Camalots (5 years ago) and a smaller friend. I believe it was a #4. Just went out across and got pumped. Was doing quite well until the last Camalot proved to have a trigger wire that wanted to break right then and there. I managed to stuff a foot and part of a leg up there, got the damn thing in and gunned it, but surely not like you gunned it. My buddy Jake followed and pulled it off frozen stiff. Hilarious. I thought that just once I might have the chance to see him fall on something I led clean. Nope. Not then, not ever. I'm so bad.
Thanks for the story!
Bob J.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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largo-
Steve Byrne said that Gunsmoke would be 11+ if you ran out the last 35'- he made the first onsight of the route in the mid 1980's- of course he had his own Wired Bliss #5's to protect it.
as for the coati roof, you beat Jim Waugh by only a few weeks- he was very sad about your visit. Thing is, Reveley and Greene were up at the roof their last day on '76 but got too cold in T-shirts and shorts and bailed off then walked out. They certainly were strong enough to do the roof...
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
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Todd: All those pics remind me of Rob Slater...RIP
Thanks for all the great posts and history.
Look for the NEW NORTHERN ARIZONA GUIDEBOOK coming soon (sadly discluding most of Todd's mostly-illegal-now ascents) to you - hopefully may or June if we can get it all together.
Big party at Vertical Relief in Flagstaff!
There, Greg, you have your rightness. It was, ultimately, a plug for our guide.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Bow down......
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bob
climber
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HDDJ,
Yup it was Jake Whittaker and I. (Jensen) To add a bit to this adventure, he arrived at the belay frozen, but with mission in mind he set off on Once Upon a Time's 12a corner. He onsighted it through two (yes 2!) mini snow/ice storms, complete with incsane wind. I'm pretty sure he was on lead for at least 1/2 an hour. So, he became too cold to keep heading up the route and I reached the point of not being able to hold on to a belay device because I was literally frozen. I felt so good after Gunsmoke then all the cold set into my sweaty clothes. OH MAN I have never been that cold at Granite Mountain and I've spent a LOT of time up there cold.
Such great memories.
Bob J. on morning coffee.
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originalpmac
Trad climber
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i learned how to climb in AZ. the Dells in Prescott, upper and lower Sully's, Granite Mountain, Paradise Forks, GTroom Creek Boulders. all good places
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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On the Coatamundi Traverse, only 5.10b but at the time there were only tied-off pins to protect the crux bit off the belay. Don't ping . . .
Anyhow, TODD, where are all those shots of climbing those super slender desert needles? Like Cleopatras and others. Man, those spires look like the shizat. And how about climbing those big arches in Arches Nat. Park. Like Rainbow and Landscape (what a trip walking across that one!) and others.
JL
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bob
climber
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Stiff 10b traverse Mr. Long. Is it like in Jtree where the boulder problem start doesn't show in the rating? Those pins got swiped out and now sports two GIANT bolts. RIght there at the start of the traverse. The head aspect of that climb is lost. Still a hell of a climb. My buddy and I did Sorcerer to that traverse and I fell just at the lip. Damn!!!!!! Such good stuff. Memorieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees.
Great picks of that route have popped up here and there.
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I think that traverse gets 11a in the latest guide.
When I was up there last year climbing Coatimundi-Candyland, these two YSLs (Young Strong Local) were up there. Got to watch their antics from a nice seat below the Great Roof. First guy goes up and leads out to the corner where the crack going up is found. He sets a piece and lowers down to a small ledge directly below where there is a bolt for Once Upon A Time. His partner comes across the traverse, and when he's at the corner, he lowers down as well. Then the first guy goes back up to pull the corner of the roof. Guess they don't like rope drag.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Fortunately I had Manny rope gun it for me, I didn't weight the rope but I was glad to have it coming from above; pretty darn exposed and insecure, if you ask me!
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Cleopatra's, Venus's and a couple of others nearby are actually in New Mexico. They are just a little North of where I-40 crosses over into Arizona.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I can't remember sh#t about that route for some reason so I have the ratings wrong - not trying to sandbag.
Sure didn't know that Cleopatras and all those needles were in New Mex.
JL
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I got to ropegun Manny on Gunsmoke though, full adventure for each of us!
Hats off doing that on hexes, Largo! we had #4 friends, state of the art back then...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I walked across Landscape Arch when I was in high school in 1973? It was not very hard to get on top, I did it with a non-climber friend. We walked over and back and got back down the same way we came up, on the South side. I wouldn't do it now for fear of the law!
edit: also the law of gravity, since that giant chunk fell off of it a few years ago.
edit squared: That traverse looks unbeleivabley thin! It must be gripping to both lead and follow! Yikes!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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As wide as Gunsmoke looks, how did Lynn do following it? Plenty of excitement on both ends of the rope.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Largo;...you can't beat this sort of sh#t for novelty, strangeness, fun, and just earth's oddball freaks;.......some of the best adventures on the planet, aren't they....(yeah;...I left out the pics of Cleo and stuff, as they are in New Mex......but Arizona is awesome and the tits on the bull.....) Soloed across this arch "secretly" at about 6 AM on morning all by myself......it was like walking on a granite sidewalk, suspended in space.....300 feet long, 150 high, and 5 feet thick in the middle.....
NOT IN ARIZONA
Landscape Arch, Utah.......
Also not in Arizona
Ring Arch, Arches, Utah
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Not in Arizona.
Cleopatra's Needle, N.M.
Skinniest spire on Earth
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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But Todd, you can just ride over them...
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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ok, back to Arizona (and Granite Mountain).
Who here has done Sorcerer?
Jason Sands got the first onsight and Suzuki the second.
I've only talked to one other guy who has done it (other than Waugh and Ficker).
...The Granite Mountain test piece- 3 cruxes, rope stretcher pitch w/ all gear and all techniques needed.
and other photos
an arizona tower
climbin it
at the forks
babo once more
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Someone's been on Sorcerer this year... there was a rope left on it the last couple times I was up there. Bad form.
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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What an awesome thread!
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bob
climber
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I've done it. Hard 11+ or was it the bird sh#t factor through fairly hard climbing that made it so stiff? Really though, my bud and I got beat a bit on it until we reached the stance. Then............we were scared. I guess technically we did the "yo-yo" thing. We sat on the ledge contemplating gunning it above on the stems. We both wanted to do, but my bud wanted it more. (whew!) He punched it and I followed clean.
I talked to quite a few people who have done it or at least given it a go. I'm pretty sure I heard a story from Rusty of Steve Deickoff (sp) taking some screamers off that thing back in the day.
Incredible line for sure.
Another absolutely kick-ass free climb up there is The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. That is big wall free climbing on a little ol' crag in AZ. The moves are so good along with the positioning out on wall left of the Flying Buttress. I recommend this route to anyone...........aiding or freeing it.
Bob J. on morning coffee
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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A little off topic but . . . that Landscape Arch is one of the freakiest and most outrageous rock formations I have ever seen. We walked in along the ridge to the right, did a short rap to a ledge and from there we could walk right out onto the arch. Walking out along that skinny dude is easy but super weird and spooky. We (Brother Bob Gaines) and I snuck our way onto a stack of those arches. I had a baseball with parachuted cord attached and tried hucking that over a few of the arches but it never worked (I was going to drag a bigger line over via the parachute cord).
Back to Granite Mountain, I looked at the Sorcerer when we were thre and thought it looked probable but would be real stiff. Hey, has anyone recently led Jump Back Jack Crack? That looks serious.
JL
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Haven't heard of, or seen, anyone leading Jump Back lately. Amazing accomplishment for 1972. Sometime in the last five years, I was doing the descent hike down off the east end and came on a couple of guys giving it a go on toprope. The poor sod tied in at the time was bloody from knees to elbows, but game to give it another go and switching from the left side option over to the right side. Don't know how he fared after that...
Not totally sure, but I think this pic of Jump Back Jack Crack came from the '73 Lovejoy guide:
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nuts
climber
az
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Also a nice shot of another classic Easy Chair to the right of Jumpback Crack
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Easy Chair... another candidate for hardest "5.8" on the planet. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Okay, we've faded off the front page... lets get this party re-started.
Guy on the second pitch of Waterstreak Delight (10b), approaching the crux moves.
Guy leading out to the corner on Coatimundi Whiteout. Got a cam in the roof but he's about the lower off it to a bolt below.
Climber seconding the traverse on Coatimundi. Not much to stand on.
Still working on it...
And nearly out to the end (where he lowers down to his buddy).
Looking up into a business on Coatimundi from nearby Kingpin.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Rick D, and I 'jumped back' circa '90, maybe he remembers the date. It was the day we did Improbability Drive. A single nine mil, minimal gear, epic (falling didn't seem an option) was involved. I removed a biner I'd left on a bolt when Raypole and I had been rained off maybe 4 years earlier. I don't think it gets much traffic.
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bob
climber
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I've spent a lot of time up at Granite Mountain when a lot of people didn't know I was there. In that time I've seen two parties on Jump Back Jack. One time it was one of the Coats brothers as I talked with Scott Baxter on the front porch. Scott Baxter! That guy, in one conversation, allowed me the vision that there is tons to do no matter what, everywhere. You just have to look. I think that was 95 or 96. Not certain at all. So, the next time I see Scott Baxter I'm walking up road from Mars attacks with a class of rock climbers and here comes the famous Sedona Pink Jeep. The jeep pulls up and the driver says,"Hi Bob." What? I don't know any pink jeep drivers. Well, its Scott Baxter and he friggin remembers me. I felt stupid for not recognizing him!
Also, in 93, I was climbing at Upper Sullivan's Canyon and my buddy and I did some great TRing with Baxter and buddies. Pretty sure I didn't really know who he was at the time. My buddy and I get back to the car and start it up only to realize that we had, in no way, enough gas to get back to town. We rifled the car with no success. With our heads down and our egos gone for the day we went back into the canyon to ask the boys if they had any spare change. I can't quite remember how we got all the change,b ut we did. I do remember Scott and his friends acting like the position we got ourselves into was not by any means unheard of in the climbing world. They seemed thoroughly amused.
I have no idea what Scott's real impression of us was. Hilarious.
Oh yeah! The second time I saw people on Jump Back Jack was 2003 or 4. Some unknowns as far as I was concerned and they floated like it was 5.9. Maybe it was the guys I saw a few days earlier who floatillad Gunsmoke and then floated Sorcerer. They were both wearing helmets and both REALLY knew how to climb.
I've done the first Var. pitch on JBJ and it was pretty easy for what I thought it was going to be.
We didn't do the upper part cuz we were chicken sh#t. 1996.
I will climb that crack before the Mountain closes in Feb. I'll post up.
Bob J.
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Well, I guess I'll know where to find you Jensen. Contact me, fuker, I'm back in AZ and want to climb. THIS IS JEFE.
Back in the early 90's(whenever Croft's NIAD record was 4:20) a buddy and I had the idea to climb at all of Prescott's crags in a day.
Promised Land- Burning Bosches 11a
Sullivan's Canyon- nameless 5.9
Granite Dells- Co-Op Crack 5.10
Thumb Butte- The Koran 5.10
Granite Mountain- Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.8
Good times.
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bob
climber
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I think we can up that a bit Jefe! Look forward to climbing with you bro. Check your email. I'm in transit to the mighty state we love.
Bob J.
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Sullivan's Canyon is a nice small crag that I hadn't visited until recently. A quick look at our clothing will show that it isn't always sunny and warm in Arizona.
Nice warm-up at the Nursery:
Teddy Bear:
What is more fun that a roof crack with a sit down start? 911:
Sullies basalt is much more coarse than the Overlook or the Forks:
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Cochise Bump:
(pictures stolen from internet)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Lower Sullivan Canyon...
The Promised Land...
Nothing like a good spot when you're strung out on a boulder problem...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Arizona has it all with respect to rock types to sample. The Sedona red rock classic, The Mace.
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Dec 23, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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I'm a little late in responding, but I'm sittin in the BisbeeAZ library whiling away a gloomy rest day with MisterE. Climbed at Lemmon 2 days, Lizard Marmalade Direct Rocks!, like a harder version of Illusion Dweller(CCTFSLB, for you old dudes). Checked out Dry Canyon yesterday in the Whetstone Mts. Quality steep limestone facing south. It was almost too hot yesterday! Back to the thread though, for some reason I decided to do Jump Back Jack Crack about 10 years ago. One of my favorite wide things anywhere. Kind of stout but it's all there. Onsight! The Dr.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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I wrestled with the direct start and got past the crux bolted bulge only to regrettably cluck and despair at the long runout on squeeze above. My cluster of Tubechocks offered no comfort past 6". These days all that would take pro easily.
Great fat fest and one of the most striking lines at the Mountain.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
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Merry Christmas! The first major survey of Granite Mountain by Matt Warfield from Climbing 49 July-August 1978.
Da bizness!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 30, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
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A bump near Prescott....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I found two snapshots of the second ascent of Helm's Deep (5.10)on Rappel Rock from back in the 70's. I did the route with Rich Thompson.
Rounding the chickenheaded roof on the first pitch.
Easy climbing leaving the stance on the second pitch before the difficulties ensue.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Steve, did helms deep with jay way back when. what a great route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Talk about clean stone Murry....
And, if not, how's your slapshot???
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Sitting in rainy snowy Oregon, I can really really REALLY appreciate Arizona.
I can't seem to find most of my pics... but her's a couple fun ones to keep this going.
Mace Leap!
PatO on Sound of One Hand Thrashing, beanfest
I especially like the historic photos... keep 'em coming!
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 10, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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the 'ol standby never really gets old
Colin Cox
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Paul and I were debate partners in highschool in Tucson. I introduced him to climbing around 1972. Coming from a wrestling background, he took to it readily and we became a very strong team. Paul used to be able to do multiple one finger/one arm pullups on a loop of 7mm cord!
This shot of rapping down Hitchcock Rock appeared in my 74 Tucsonian yearbook. My sister Barbara was the editor.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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A little local color from the posin' 80's! The Brad Smith hard crank tour from Climbing 101 April 1987.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 10, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Gotta love that cover shot of Jim and the 80's lycra!
Also the use of code acronyms for the people in the article. JS, EZ, HS...
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 10, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Thanks SG!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 11, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Nice thread that keeps on crankin'
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Mr. E in some interesting pants. Cochise Stronghold with Mike from Phoenix.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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Sooze at Cochise
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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Jaybro, 1965
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 02:01am PT
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Gear - check.
Guts - check.
Glory - oh yeah
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Fry Canyon, UT
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Jan 11, 2009 - 02:10am PT
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Holy shmoly I was just thinking about this thread and it's right on top of the page as I look. I need to get some pics together. Thanks for the pretty durn gud pictures. Pennslenvy
Edit: hey that cam in the last picture looks pretty darn new(oob) to me. And the flying chalk....Did that guy get any higher than that picture before he had to come down and get a beer.
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Fry Canyon, UT
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Jan 11, 2009 - 02:33am PT
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This also is Arizona. This picture is from last spring. But my house sits in a little north facing pocket........and boy do I have snowbanks! I also know what a @#uck!n shovel is this year.
ooops wrong state
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Pensyl: That guy in the pic so floated that thing that even straight guys with no prison record were lining up to blow him after the ascent.
As for the new cam, he carries them like the astronauts used to carry dimes.... to sell later with the pedigree of "this cam went up Shak N Bake,
and now you can own it".
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Shake and Bake, Half Ass, Abracadaver, Greasy Gizzards, Knead Me????? What's your fat fav in the Stronghold, Russ? Thus far....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Steve: only done one. The Shake and Bake. I think....
Got many more on the new list. Anything that starts in the guide book as, "this rarely done...." will get my attention.
Supposedly there are tons of them up there, all probably too far for me to walk, some even undone, and all a big secret..... shhhhhhh!
What would you put on a list of the best 5 or 10? I'll file a full photo spraydown report after I try your list.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Abra is still the crown jewel...
Right next door is Knead Me, the original big route on Rockfellow Dome. Lots of chimneying, little real OW.
I haven't done Half Ass but it is striking as hell and you won't be able to keep your nose out of it.
Bar Exam at 5.11 on Hawk Pinnacle also looks promising.
Here is the Kerry 97 adventure guide description of the area.
Lower down, Greasy Gizzards has a nasty face move after some fun wide stuff so not your cup of tea without a TR or bail piece.
Not much comes to mind off hand that is quality fat but there are a lot of routes in the west Stronghold that I haven't checked out.
You have to check out The Thing. Look for it on a large boulder right near the on ramp toward Tucson as you get back on I-10.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 11, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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DB sold me my first pair of shoes in '87. Gratitude, dude.
Plenty of trippy times on, beneath, and inside the Rockfellow Group.
HERE HERE!
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Went to Granite Mountain this weekend to get my ass into climbing shape. I friggen love G. Mtn!!!!!!!!!!!! Always brings back so many memories because it is where I really learned to climb.
I had the camera and never gave it up. I want to be the only one to bust it. Control thing I guess.
1. Ahh, heading up in the morning.
2. Buddy following 1st pitch of King Pin.
3. Buddy leading crux corner. Sorry, but butt shot was unavoidable.
4. Fella linking cracks on Coat. Candyland.
5. Buddy following 3rd pitch of King Pin the way that we linked some pitches.
6. Buddy finishing 3rd pitch with fella in back ground at the belay for Coat. Candyland
7. Buddy leading last pitch to summit. Some more ass shots. Overall, a horrible climb for sure! j/k.
8. Boys next door on C.C. just before I followed up the last pitch of King Pin.
9. We returned to the Front Porch to relax and found ourselves on another route we know as the "Hotline" in minutes. It links 1st of the Nose, 2nd of Cats Pajamas, 3rd of Reunion. Great crack line for sure right up the Flying Buttress. Left the camera at the base, but the boys on Coatimundi Candyland snapped a few when they got down. This is of me leading the last bit of Reunion's splitter finger crack.
All in all a great ending to the weekend. The weather doesn't get much better, the friends, great climbing, and the most beautiful setting did wonders for me getting back into climbing shape both physically and most important, mentally.
Yeah, I'm back in AZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob J.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:01am PT
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"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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BOB-
That's it. I'm on my way!
How good does Slammer Jam look in the background....
Nice work!
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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Give a shout Jefe. I've got a schedule these days so..............
Definitely thought about you up there. I remember the 1st route I ever did there was Magnolia and we all met at the top. I even have some pics (unscanned) of you chilling with Scott? was his name?
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Nice shots Bob! Sounds like you had a great run!
The Buddy must be pretty solid to be up there in the crux corner of Kingpin with just that one piece in there. Sweet!
Dang...might have to brave the cold.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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Anyone have that R&I article about Sedona from around 1987? I remember buying it at Scott Baxter's little shop in Flag, the Inner Basin.
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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steelmnkey, not to say that my buddy isn't solid, but he's got 4 pieces in the crux photo.
Glad y'all are enjoying the pics. Thanks.
Gotta pack some days in up there before shut down. season!
Bob J.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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I'm jonesin'
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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I hear ya Bob... missed those two up under him. Dark monitor. My buddy had about six or eight visible by that point...didn't trust one of 'em... :-)
Here's some shots from just after New Years. Route just right of Stampede on Sheepshead.
Russ nearing the top of 2...
Sooze launching...Russ at the top of 2...
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
That's on the east side. Entrance dome? Out-of-towners dome? I can never keep those straight. Anyway, I did the first 3 of the 5 pitches a few years back. The rock gets pretty chossy above that, but the pitches we did were verynice.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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Another one from just after New Years.
Climb Too Tough to Die (10a/b), Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold
Pitch 2
Working on the last pitch (6). Airy, and spectacular.
Goes left, then up the arete above.
In the heavy wind that day, nearly fell off grabbing for my hat.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Jan 12, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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Folks,
A few years ago I did a line between Ides of Middlemarch and Stampede. A line of bolts led up to a stance, followed by a second significantly more poorly protected pitch up a shallow groove, over an overlap and a traverse right to a stance. The third pitch was quite bouldery directly above the stance and then it fizzled out somewhat, we finished up some stuff I'd done before over to the left.
I never got a name or grade, it was good climbing, but an odd mix of super safe and bold.
Anyone know what it was?
Best,
Steve
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Haven't seen much mention of this route, but I always thought it was one of the coolest moderates I ever did in the Stronghold.
Days of Future Passed (5.8 A? or 5.10), End Pinnacle
Full on shot of End Pinnacle with climber at the first belay and one at the top of the second pitch.
George working on the first pitch...
George nearing the top of the second pitch.
George on the rim of the big tinajas atop End Pinnacle.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jan 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Lovely photos, gotta give it up for the stronghold. But, as you may know, Pine, AZ has some great rock too!
Lisa Apprill on The Proposal:
Megan on Peacenik:
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jan 13, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Those are good Manny. Especially that of April, WOW!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
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Nice fins in the next to last shot! Coconino?
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Yup, the good old Coke!
That's the Doctor's Office, Steve - where we found your webbing for the descent off of Lucky Goes to the Creamery.
There's an unclimbed 200 foot over-hanging splitter on that wall with the brown stripe, gonna be wicked hard when it goes.
Erik
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 13, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Where's the Dr.s office in relation to Dresdoom and Book of Friends? Sure is pretty in that area, but oh so soft!
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Buju
Trad climber
A Sandbar
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Jan 13, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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my buddy and i doing the mace jump
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bfKhpuiWLw
he sprained both is ankles...the walk out took a LONG time. then i got a flat tire while driving out of the parking lot on our way to the ER.
i love sedona!
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 13, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Arizona is SO hot right now....
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 13, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Some more shots of Iso...
Mr. Iso (aka Manny) next two shots:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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The tale of the FA of Days of Future Passed is a classic and I will tell it on the Abra thread with full photo documentation when I have the time.
Nice shots of Kingpin, Bob! I did an early ascent of that beautiful and surprisingly friendly line. I absolutely ate the first pitch up only to have a wierd little bout of vertigo belaying higher on the route. Too much time spent looking down the steepness!
Killer wires and edges and you're feelin' like a Kingpin up there! Great route.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
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Great stuff, all! I gotta get back to Isolation, among other places.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
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A shot starting out on Days from the 97 Kerry Backcountry guide.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 15, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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"Superboulder", Prescott
This boulder is now either gravel, or in someone's backyard.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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FYI Esteban:
Those coke fins, the one on the right, is Lucky Goes to the Creamery...
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Finally bothered with the Photobucket approach so here's some stolen shots of Az daze.
Lets not forget the Big Ditch. My vote for best climb there goes to Pegasus but South Face of Zoro is also highly rated.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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How about from the Forks, thanks to Larry for his work scanning (and to Haisley's and others for sharing)
FA of the classic East of Eden, by the man we all owe the Forks to: Scott the Man Baxter
Actually, we owe the find of the Forks to Jim Whitfield, troubled artiste extraordinaire, RIP old friend. He took Scott out there and told him
he'd thought he'd found a place with some pretty good looking climbs. :-)
Tim Coats on second ascent of Sail Away
(might be first ascent, but I was pretty sure I led it first and Tim repeated it. Maybe he did it before me and never had the heart to tell me ?)
FA of Pillowing (aka Davidson Dihedral)
FA of King Fissure (2 pitch climb at the Forks ? Kinda a hard second pitch. Named for the King Fisher flying around and croaking at us) - Davidson and Baxter
FFA of the Gold Finger Exit - Larry had led the lower pitch and used a move of aid on this exit (as I recall anyway) and dared us to free these moves. King Fissure is two corners right. Davidson, Haisley
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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In honor of the Man of Flagstaff:
Scott Baxter.... Find the Beanie.
This was from one of his Syndicato Banquets,
which started the whole Beanfest thing.
I believe this was the second year he'd had a bouldering contest at Parks Wall
That's Scott's dad in the right foreground, Davidson on the wall and Hernando Coates waiting to pounce.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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And is any Az Appreciation thread complete with a pic of this guy:
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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Or how about this guy hiding behind his hat in the background:
Edit: Guess a hint is in order since you can hardly see the short dude.... He's carrying a camera.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Or the Barefoot Man himself:
Sorry for the theft Mr. D. Too good a shot not to be in this thread.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
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And the list goes on....
(someday I'll actually scan my own slides)
I'm obviously missing some of my most important partners, these images are all just from borrowed scans...
Larry on the first day on Dresdoom, leading the second pitch:
(first time, he went way right, second time, I went way left, much later I did the blue ribbon exit going straight up.) Larry and I put a fair amount of work into doing this climb in what we felt was a safe manner (we'd come back with different gear to make slots and slings.) Nowdays, I'd say it probably needs about 3 bolts to make it more of classic. 3 bolts would probably still leave some good shrivel factor.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Closing the day out with just a so so shot but of one my all time favorite climbs, The Prow (no, not that one), this is at the Overlook. This may be in the closed off area but it's far enough away from the Monkey Cages that it shouldn't be verboten.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 22, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Ah... saw this one and just had to continue.
That guy above with the camera my sue me for this but it's just too beautiful not to share. I'll post first and ask later... So look now before it's gone.
Northern Catalinas by Peter Noebels
FWIW, I do have an even better framed shot of this by Peter the master. It shares the wall with my two Adams.
Woo hoo, Peter has approved the posting.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 22, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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Nice posting, Pablo! Might be time to root around in the old slide box. Does Timmy or Larry have any other shots from Lucky Goes to the Creamery?
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bob
climber
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Jan 23, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Is that shot above of the overhanging bouldering from Rainbow rock in between Salida and Buena Vista, CO? Looks really familiar.
Bob J.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 23, 2009 - 12:13am PT
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Thanks, Paul'n'all!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 23, 2009 - 11:36am PT
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Steve, I have to think if there's one pic of the Creamery, there's more. But, I sure thought Larry was in on it.
I thought he'd done the first pitch then come down
and found us and drug us down there to finish it.
Maybe he went up the first pitch then rapped off ?
That rings a vague bell. Like he had a class or something.
Bob J - yes, I suspect that pic is from that area because I stole it from D'Antonio. I have a few other great pics of the man on slides I'll have to dig up. While that shot is not Az (I don't think, it is of the man himself so belongs here since pics of him are really quite rare.)
Steve, now just need to get that nikon scanner working again.
Certainly have a few more that are postable !
Thanks J, long time no see. Awahnee with Serena as newborn I think was the last time I saw you..... Just to show how time flies....
sorry images are a bit big, but on my large monitor they seem to fit in ok. on my laptop they're crunched...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Was it a party of four or five up there on LGTTC? I recall Haisley and Timmy but not Larry for some reason. I thought Timmy took those shots.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 23, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
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You are correct. You, Tim, Jim and me.
But for some reason, I thought Larry had done the first pitch previously and went there with us to do it then rapped off after one. I recall leading a first pitch of 5.10 or so, slightly run out, mantly move onto a belay ledge ? Or, I could be confusing it with just some other climb.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 23, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Thanks so much guys for posting these amazing photos.
Proud to be a Zoner.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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Would love to use some of the historic pics for the NAZ guides, let us know. Thanks for posting them up.
Erik
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 23, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 23, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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Can't let Jim be dissin a slag heap and get away with it:
At a Syndicato Banquet, I think Jim had just gotten back from possibly his first big trip to Cerro ?
Great slide show, had to "borrow and liberate" some Prescott College gear
for an outdoor show and then use the gym when the weather turned.
(L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey
And yes, that Walkup (President of NAU's daughter) and that is what it looks like on Phil's left hand.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 24, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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FRONT PORCH *BUMP*
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 24, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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Bumpity bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Nice shot Paul!
Scott Baxter's friend Philipo in Paul's shot above lost all of both hands but a wrist on one to a Civil War re-enactment accident. Despite the handicap he was able to manage many 5.7 routes and enjoyed himself fully battling away! Great guy!
It was inspiring to watch him work a set of moves all his own on every route with a wrist and a hook.
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10b4me
Ice climber
the sads
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Jan 24, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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To round off Steve's story of Phil's accident: it happened as he was tamping down a canon. (Steve, the ole VW bus came from Phil.)
Some of the old gang:
We can thank Larry Coats for most (all?) of the recent images I've posted. If he didn't shoot it, he at least scanned them in.
(yeah, some are lousy and dark, but some might say that's a reflection of the soul...)
Larry on Witblitz
Jim Haisley on Witblitz
et moi on Witblitz
et moi, top of first pitch, FA of the Dong.
Jim Haisley on the first ascent of Bleak Streak
(what's wrong with this picture ?)
Wrong ? I'm lying like a rug,
FA was Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom and Dave Kolpin, 1971,5.8
From the Lovejoy Guide:
This is a classic in thin face climbing which ascends the seemingly flawless wall called "The Face."
A face climbing specialist with stiff shoes will find this climb a breeze, but the man not accustomed to this sort of climbing may get caught in a Hurricane.
Care should be used in checking the security of the Holds.
PARAPHERNALIA: A small selection of small pitons and nuts is adequate to protect the final pitch and belay points on this route.
Please do not add or chop bolts.
Many a climber has been caught in a hurricane trying to lead GM 5.8s and 5.9s. This one is probably really only 5.8 ? Maybe 5.9 ?
But there did used to be that 20 ft grounder into a flake that the FA ran out and then stopped and drilled.
Last time I did this, I recall actually getting some possibly decent pro (slider, ball nut and/or TCU ?)
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
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Some of that old gang in their dotage:
L/R
Tim Coats, Mimi deGravelle, Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, John Steiger, Larry Coats
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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I wonder if anyone ever repeated Depthcharge 5.10+ on Submarine Rock down in Sedona?
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 28, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
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FYI- Granite Mountain closing soon!
Falcon closures go into effect monday Feb. 2nd.
This is the last weekend to climb at The Mountain 'til July.
Gotta go!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Hey Jefe...or anyone? Ever do the Guillotine Flake route way over on the right end? If so, what are the chimneys like? Squeeze, or foot and back? or mixed?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Giucco Piano is fun over there too. Paul, Randy Mettler and I came very close to getting fried by lightening on top of that one!
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bob
climber
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Jan 28, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Yes, I've done that route. I had a chalk bag and my clothes and nothing else and it was just chimney as I recall. I went out on some crack at the end that was way harder than the rest, but still moderate. Fun.
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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Thanks Bob... just wondering. Last bit of unfinished business for me up there that's easier than 5.10.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
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Mt. Elden needs some love:
--photos by Colin Cox, etc off Mountain Project
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Here's some... think people generally go other places than the Deception cracks, but I always liked 'em...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Anybody have pictures of Twilight Zone at Elden?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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That's a great line!
This one is from John Burcham of Chris Tatum on John's Jugs, and the cover page for West Elden in the new guide:
Looks like some rough rings, there
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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West Elden! Haven't thought of that place for a long time. One of my first leads as as an NAU freshman was Right Deception.
Any pics of the other side of Mt. Elden- Elysian Buttress?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 29, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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Elden, what a fun place. I always really liked the Deception Cracks.
Steve, I have some slides somewhere of 2nd ascent of The Zone. I'll have to dig them up. Seems like I saw them just recently....
One of those photos was of the Eleysian buttress, wasn't it ?
John's Jugs is wicked hard and even more painful.
We use to call that Tenure crack (it was next to Retirement crack), except we could never get up it. Something about those wires just didn't inspire much trust. I think the FA was via TR and then later led? It's an impressive thing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I thought that you had a camera that day on the Zone! Is that thing still 5.11?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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If I lived in Flag I could go to Elden every day when school lets out @ 3.
And I would!
I'd maybe even go there on my Bike.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Just got an e-mail from Chris on John's Jugs - he sent. Said it was the most painful "5.12" he has ever done. Crap feet, painful locks & bad gear - good stuff!
:^}
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DJMac
Big Wall climber
Bonedale, CO
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Awesome thread ... great photos! Wish I had more of my time in AZ. I guess I didn't hang out with the photographer types (except Hatcher), and I'm not in any of the photos, lol.
Thanks for sharing all the photos ... brought back some really great memories and kept me from getting a lot of work done today.
AZ climbing rocks!
BTW ... who ever mentioned "secret canyon" ... YOUR FIRED. ;)
Remember the cover photo from Mountain Tools by B Hatcher, BW of a guy climbing a pointed flake? That's me, at Secret.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Gotta get on Megadeath! It's my favorite route and my favorite band! Not...
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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So Russ, what did you think?
You have more wide gear than I have ever seen any leader with on that pitch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Clearly Mutant Weight Training or voices from the depths!
FA went with a rusty buttonhead and a #10 Hex!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Just the standard quads to 16" ;) Had the doubles on #5 and #6, and singles in the #4's on down. The fixed head still looks nice for a 1938 placement..... bolt is fat and shiny now.
Climbing was fairly continuous and strenuous in my condition. No real crux, but all about the same. Probably 5.8+ in Josh or 5.14c in the Gym. Calling it 5.9 seems like a pretty good sandbag. Does that place ever see sun? Did the first pitch in a down jacket.... Susan was a Soozesickle™™™ at the belay. We were going to bail right there at the top of #1, but I decided to at least do the wide pitch since I humped all that gear up there. She reminded me that there were no anchors at the top of #2.... oops.... Set out knowing I would need to cut a few favorite children loose from the stopper rack to get back down. Good stuff! Free gear at the belay! b00ty!!!111
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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...and remember all those who hate the hard wide. Dean Brault and Dave Des Champs did a 2 bolt (10+) face variation into the top of pitch 2 on Abra from Knead Me (so a little 5.7 chimney on first pitch).
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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What a great pic of DB on the classic grunt pitch.
I think I once led pitches one and two together on Abra w/ JJ.
He did not want to lead anything and I wanted to get it over with.
As I recall, I regretted it up there where the second starts to pinch down and kick you out right.
I'm wondering if you can really do them together or if it's just an old man's fading memory. (I did lead everything that day but maybe it's a fantasy of 1 and 2 as one.)
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Steve:
I'd been hearing that Twilight Zone was considered 5.10c or d but it shows up on Mountain Project still as 11- (with only one consensus.)
Sure is steep though and because of that and the rock type, somewhat painful. I'd be sure and be wearing my jammies these days
(gad's what an admission, but as I saw Baxter once justify it, 30 years of crack scar tissue prefers those cheater gloves.)
More theft from of Larry Coats images:
Baxter did the FA with aid.
Larry was w/ Ed Webster when they did the FFA.
Ed on the FFA
And Larry was there the day Steve did the 2nd FFA with me as belay slave (circa spring 77):
Check out that special nut on Steve's left side !
Actually, this thing absolutely sews up with trad nuts because the crack is so pocketed. I personally think passive pro is way better on a climb like this than cams. It won't walk, it won't get in the way of the jam, and you can hang a truck off a 9 hex buried in a pocket.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
The first pitch of Abra, right?
Modern pro is real good. The seam takes small to med cams pretty good and then there is the 1854 rusted bolt. I thought the first pitch was harder than it looks (looks about 5.7) and kinda funky. I just did it like a salmon going upstream, using a flat left leg and an heel toe on the outside of the shallow flare, upper body stuffed in as deep as possible. The crux is pretty short at about a body length or so. Top of the pitch has some fat rap anchors. It sure looks like pitches one and two will go together, for sure with a 70m since both raps (from top of two, and top of one) can be done easily with one rope.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Thnx for the update Russ.
That's how I remember that first pitch.
Nothing like knowing OW climbing for getting up seamy grooves.
Man, if it's got nice rap anchors, why didn't they replace that POS bolt at the same time.
As I recall, it's a 1/4" in a freaking water groove.
It was rusted out back in the 70's.
And what AZ thread would be complete with out a picture of Tim Coats
(one of the most unheralded crack climbers most of you've never heard of):
Once again, another theft from Larry, Tim on 2nd ascent of Ultimate Finger Crack:
Pic by Dougald Bremner, RIP...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ed Webster won the humor category in a Climbing photo contest (#62 Sept-Oct 1980) with this classic shot of Scott clowning around at his own personal basalt bouldering clifflet minutes from his old haunts at Forks.
Meanwhile back at the house...the goat is in the pit and its bottle walking and caber tossing out back!
Many a later Syndicato Granitica Banquet was hosted by Scott at Parks.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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I need a miracle
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Great Pic of Scotty. Same contest as the picture I posted earlier.
Steve, I have some good slides of us at Parks Wall years ago.
I'll have to dig them up and scan them one of these days...
Pretty fun place...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Especially for right out back!
Any Cwm photos?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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It's the 21st century, already, do people still climb in that obscure state?
Brutus told me today that he mugged some punk ( I may have the odd detail off,) for a brand new Sedona guide. It Bloomed on me, that that wasn't very likely. Is it?
How do I get mine? I don't think I can successfully mug Brutus....
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supesclimber
Boulder climber
mesa
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Feb 11, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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hey jaybro, can you do Zonerland ni March?
MC
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 11, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
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Yeah J-brah... c'mon out here and do Zonerland!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:18am PT
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Bees and spiders, they may poke your eyes out! Wait til your father gets home.....
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 10:32am PT
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Here's the list of natural hazards for the new guidebooks - thought some of you might enjoy it:
Natural Hazards
There are a multitude of natural hazards in Northern Arizona, and due care should be taken to stay alert of your surroundings and watch the weather. Hazards include, but may not limited to:
Lightning, heavy downpours, high winds, loose rock, dangerous scree slopes, flash floods, radical temperature changes, relentless sun, freezing canyons, abandoned mine shafts, yucca, cactus and other plant hazards, range cattle, coyotes, mountain lions, bears, falcons, rattlesnakes, bats, spiders, scorpions, bees and wasps.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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lions and tigers and bears - oh my!!
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Don't forget stray bullets during elk season.
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Feb 12, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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I was stung the other day by bees here in Az. I got an excellent workout running downhill with the full pack, trying (a) to get the max distance between myself and the unseen hive, and (b) to do so in a casual, nonchalant manner, so as not to unduly upset the bees. I got away with a few stings, but was waiting for the full awarm to descend on me at any moment. I've seen giant swarms of Africanized bees blow across the cliff -- pretty spooky.
Erik, are you going to add Phonecian beta spewers to the list of objective hazards?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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A few tasty shots from Climbing May-June 77.
Scott Baxter and Ross Hardwick on the FA of the Marble Tower in the Grand Canyon. Jim Whitfield photos.
The classic tyrolean return to the rim!
Some other sweet shots of Granite Mountain.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 13, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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FARKIN' SWEET!!!
I'm gonna go appreciate some Arizona climbin'!
Thanks so much S.G.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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Workin' hard here to keep quality threads goin'...
Not knowin' much of Arizona climbing I was wondering if anybody worked this stuff down by Cave Creek.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 16, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
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We need to Upgrade Steve Grossman to Pro!
WTF "Bandwidth Exceeded"?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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All better now.....
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 18, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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come on scotty , I know you are lurking out there, it's ARIZONA, "FOR CHRIST SAKE CAMERA MURRY, POST UP!!!" ok just a photo. thankyou, low angle murry out
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Was checking out Zonerland over on Mountain project:
and found this (Kelly Bell drilling "The Stand")
Straight sexy!
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Ok, you sucked me in- here are a few you might like:
Old Alpineer brochure
Syndicato Banquet -Fig bottle walking
Three views of techniques for the caber toss: Grossman, Paul Davidson, and the victor, Karl Karlstrom (J. Haisley photos)
Grossman leading the Trafalmador roof at the Cwm
The Skyline pitch on the Elysian Buttress (East Elden)
Bouldering at West Elden with Gordie Douglass, Donini, Baxter, and Dugald Bremner
Baxter on the one-finger undercling on Tunnel Boulder (W Elden)
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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Some Granite Mountain shots:
(Here you go, Largo)- First ascent of Gunsmoke (J. Haisley pic)
Candyland and Coatimundi traverses
Coatimundi Whiteout roof traverse
Heather turning the Coatimundi roof
Dreamweaver crux pitch
Two views of Jump Back Jack Crack
Slammer Jam
Tom's Thumb wide pitch
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Some Forks pics:
Crowsnest (a P Davidson classic)
Mutiny on the Bounty
2nd ascent of the Prow
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Sedona:
Blow Job Rock (no imagination necessary)
Book of Friends second pitch
Coffeepot Rock Spout Rt first attempt (Karl Karlstrom leading)
Grossman freeing the bubble pitch on the Dong
Firecat first pitch
Grossman leading King Crimson first pitch
The Mace- 2 views of the crux
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Some more Sedona:
Paul Davidson doing who knows what
Baxter on Macita second pitch
Jump across on Oak Creek Spire
Secret Spire
T Rex
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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Last batch- random shots around AZ
Promised Land (2 photos)
Baxter on granite pinnacle near Bagdad, AZ
The hanging belay on Coatimundi Whiteout (Michael Phelps got nothing on me!)
Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle (look Ma, no hands!)
The summit of the Mace a long, long, long time ago.
Ad from an old Patagonia catalog.
Summit of Lily Flower Tower, Sedona (Bob Goforth, LC, Ed Webster)
Following on first ascent of Adam's Rib second pitch, Granite Mt
Alpineer ad
An exciting night at the Alpineer
Pamphlet from the Five-Ten Rock Drills
Three photos from Christmas Tree Pass Summit Magazine article
Baxter defends another secret climbing area
Four views of Comanche Point Pinnacle, Grand Canyon
High on Zoroaster Temple, Grand Canyon
Grossman on and off the Windy Point route April Fool
Hitchcock Rock
The late Dugald Bremner on What's My Line
Cochise Stronghold Warpaint upper pitch
Weavers Needle in the Superstitions
Baxter rappelling off Weavers Needle
Eagletail Feathers west of Phoenix
Summit of Crying Dinosaur, Superstitions
Two shots of the Hand in the Superstions
Toms Thumb in the McDowell Mts
Beeline in the eastern Cochise Stronghold
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feb 20, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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How about some Alpineer history? That store was gone by the time I arrived in Flag.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 20, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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On Beaver and Cherry right? I used to giggle at that as a kid!
This thread RULES! Thanks everyone.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Holy moly, coplateau! That collection you posted is magnificent! Thanks for taking the time.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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fricken awesome slideshow- keep on it rolling,please
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Ok- here are some more I forgot about. Ice climbing at West Elden on one remarkable winter. The color shots are all on Baxter Cracker and the slab below it, and the B&W is somewhere on the far right end, almost to Twilight Zone.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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A few more random ones I ran across.
Golden Valley, near Kingman- Bax climbing
The main man himself- Scott Baxter
Dali Dome at the Syndicate Stronghold (Christmas Tree Pass)
Hosebub Whiteout on the Hackberry Wall
Bax on the Walnut Creek Wall first ascent
Nice light on King Crimson, Sedona
Second to last pitch of Dresdoom on the first ascent
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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Bad Ass!
Thanks for the contributions, coplateau
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Freakin A, about time you chimed in Bud !
Nice shots, and btw, I was doing a roof mantle.
In case you're trying to keep your anonymity....
Here's a little story about ice climbing at Elden, names changed to protect the anonymous.
So, Elden forms (late '70s) and my good buddy Hernando starts trying to drag out me there. I don't know man, that stuff looks sharp and pointy, I say.
Hernando continues to rave (I guess it had formed the year before or so and he'd done a bit then.) So, he talks me into it, lends me some gear (I think I had my own axe and crampoons.)
We drive out to Elden and get out of the car (duh...)
Hernando hands me some gear, gives me a 30 second lesson in strapping this sh#t on and pops on his crampons.
He's excited to be out and quickly ditches me to run up to the ice. Pigout the wonder dog is quickly on his tail; that animal could smell blood long before it even happens.
Meantime, I'm back at the parking lot being a total dweeb and trying to figure out how all this weird, dangerous crap goes on my feet. I mean, you used to have lace this stuff on to your Galibiers. At least I could still touch my toes back then but other than that, it was pretty humorous watching me trying to get this stuff strapped on. Kinda like a noob trying to get into a harness that's been all twisted up.
I look up just in time to see Hernando jump on the ice and do two moves up. He's raving about how good the ice is, plastic fantastic stuff, when suddenly his Humingbird comes ripping out and there's a hellacious noise of metal jingling and crashing and ice breaking and Pigdog starts jumping and barking and it's freakin bedlam.
I notice that there appears to be some redness to the white ice and Hernando is sitting on the ground holding his head. I do the limp dash over there with one crampon on and one off to find blood everywhere !
Hernando is holding his hand over his eye and blood is streaming down his fingers. Pigdog the wonder dog is going apesh#t.
I mean totally whack. This dog is running around everywhere licking up the bloody ice. He's barking, whining and eating and just having the time of his life.
In the meantime, I'm thinking Hernando has just lost an eye to this evil sport.
He uncovers his face and says that he thinks he's allright.
I look and there's this perfect circle cut into his face that totally rings his eye. The backside of his Humingbird had a sharp open circle about an inch in diameter that had kicked back and whacked the f*#k out of his head. A tool designed to take a chunk out of ice makes pretty quick work of facial flesh.
We scoop up snow and plaster it onto his face and pretty soon the bleeding stops and Hernando says he's feeling ok. So... we do some really shaky ice bouldering and then head home.
I gotta admit, I used to be a pretty sick fxxx because on the way home, I look over and see this perfect circle cut around Hernando's eye and just start laughing uncontrollably.
I'm sure it was just nervous release and not really rude dark climbing humor.
The next day a sign appears at the Alpineer:
For Sale:
1 Set of Salewa Rigid Crampons
1 Chouinard Ice Axe
Naw, I made that last bit up. I kept my gear but I do have to say that with that being my intro to ice climbing, it never became my most favorite climbing activity.
In the meantime, Hernando has to walk around Flagstaff with one of the most bizarre black eyes you've ever seen. And as it started to turn colors, it had the look of the raccoon from hell.
And that's the story of my first time on ice, in AZ no less.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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This seems like as good a place as any for the sneak peeks on the cover pages for the two new guides (obviously there's still some adjustments to be done):
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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Wow, in my next life I'm gonna give Arizona a try!
It was the scene of one of my first attempts at peak bagging. On the way from Chicago to LA in '62 we stopped at a rest area for lunch. While Grannie and Mom kicked it in the shade the bros (both 8) and me (12) headed for some 'peak'. We never made it to the base. We all came back within about 15 minutes festooned with chollas. We were particularly perplexed by the ones adorning our Keds. How to get them off? I swear this is true. I came up with the idea of burning them off! We waited until the heat was unbearable and then knocked them off. That was the only way we could shed the Keds! Then we could work on the stubs with pliers. The twins had it the worst. Despite some serious lip trembling I don't recall either of them really losing it.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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Impressive Reilly. Them jumpin' chollas were still ruthless 20 years later with Nike waffle bottoms. Had spikes embedded almost throughout my college days. Got used to em. They always managed to fester out on their own, didn't they?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Mimi,
Being young and tender, us that is, they seemed to come out fairly easily. Being OCD I made damn sure they were all out before we got back in the car!
It never happened again until I was demonstrating their jumping prowess to my wife who had never seen them. Of course, I then got to demonstrate my extraction prowess; DOH!
Reilly
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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I heard tell of Ice like that in Elden but never saw it, even when there was snow on the ground. Prolly bad timing on my part...
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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No Jay, another bit of evidence of global warming.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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MC, (MC?! MPC?) and steelmonk, just came across your posts from the 11th, It's not likely, March is a 22 day work month for me, this year, I'll be lucky to get out alive, as it is. but it won't always be like that, and I'm jonseing the supes and Zonerland!
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:16am PT
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Granite Mt. Future SushiFest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Now That, would be a venue!
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 21, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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Thanks for the little trip down memory lane, Pablo- I had forgotten all about that little incident until now. I do remember that it bled quite a bit..
But I resent your reference to the "pigdog"- Pika always held you in the highest respect (as he did for anyone who might kill him). Does he look like a pigdog?
And BTW- I found the youthful shot of you that Grossman posted adorable- you were such a cutey! Sorry that I only met you once you were old and crusty..
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 21, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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And Jaybro- it probably wasn't your lack of persistence that kept you from finding ice at Elden (or pretty much anywhere in Arizona). What made that year remarkable was the sequence of events: 1) heavy snowfall on an El Nino year, followed by 2) a really wet rain event, and then 3)super cold temps setting in for a few days. The result was an ice-sheathed Elden, that stayed around for several weeks, even though temps warmed back up to normal, mild Flag conditions. I looked for it again and again over the years, but never saw anything like that one winter.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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Damn Larry!!!
You keep showing up like that and I'm gonna have to start carrying an avalanche beacon and shovel around the house!
A warm ST welcome to the illustrious Don Bosco Moraini, haute alpine sleuth, enforcer for the Syndicato Granitica and desert demi-god. The guidebook is in the house and so is the man's extensive slide collection as adventure's Eye of the North!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 21, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Damn, little Pikie, I gotta shed a tear for the dog that wouldn't die.
First, he's gets run over by a Jeep. Was it twice as you backed up to see what you'd hit ?
Then, while doing the Silver Pond down climb at the Forks, I'm standing down on the rock below the third class (what, 15 feet of 5.7 or something like that ?) when Pika decides he's going to come down without his normal rope. He's coming down head first and slams onto the ledge right next to me.
Now to this day, I'm falsely accused of trying to drown that dog. I just did what any good physicist would.
I tried to help conserve his momentum so that he wouldn't expend it all on the splat onto the ledge.
I just gave him a little Tai Chi move towards the water.
It's really amazing how long a dog can stay under water when he's jumped down a 20 feet problem and then sailed another 15 feet through the air.
He was under for what seemed like a very long time.
I was starting think I'd finally done the impossible and killed Pika when bubbles started showing up and finally up pops Pika, snorting and wiggling.
For some reason, that dog avoided me for the rest of the day.
But I'm convinced I saved his life or at the very least, kept him from breaking his legs.
Here's a toast to Pika the wonder dog.
The Alpineer mascot, he'd jump out of the back of a moving pick up, with a chain on in order to go after another dog.
We should all be so lucky to have his adventures and then die of old age.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 22, 2009 - 10:46am PT
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pika, what a cool dog , reminds me of another amazing climbing dog, the famous knocko- " c'mon knocko!!"
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ericz
climber
Ogden, UT
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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One fond recollection of AZ,.. circa early 1980's. Departing Tucson, after a winter of walking the streets, and sleeping on friend's patios,.. I headed out west of town. Hitching across the Pima reservation,.. it took all day, with a heavy spring rain quenching/drenching the cacti and adobes. Finally, around nightfall I took shelter in an abandoned gas station, just north of Organ Pipes NM.
The next morning,.. sweeping back the sands of sleep, I was greeted with an amazing sunrise. Brilliant and warm. The day was stretched forth, with my footfalls carried across a soft carpet of desert wildflowers. The vastness of the land juxtaposed with the myraid of small plant forms radiant and alive with their blooms,.. was beautiful. The aroma of the blossoms and wet earth,.. truely a living thing.
To all the oldtimers and the newcomers, happy trails.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
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I'm hearing that southern drawl echoing down forgotten neural pathways.
Zeiche stretches
With sun a smile arises
The day moves on
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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Anyone have any photos of that climb Red Planet at Sedona?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 24, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Red Planet bump. MisterE?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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and again
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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OK, I DID find a picture of it -
Credit to the Munky of Steel:
There are others, but i can't post them.
I've already gotten myself in trouble.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Feb 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Interesting place this arid zona, after a snow out in cochise the three weary canucks and their Nevada bretheren head to organ pipe,purported to be the "warmest place in Arizona". The chosen route, an amazing choss pile called montezuma's head.
All goes well on this New year's eve ascent, the crux being the swarming border patrol. Loose rock and route finding aside It'ol lets us pass. Sonoyta has an after route blowout, complete with machine gun fire(new years and all)and the campsite in organ pipe(barely heard of climbers)provides awesome camping(1000yr old pack rat nest in saguaro).The two events that mark it as exceptional, occur during meals on the road. First is breakfast in Sells. After silencing the place by coming in(not too many whiteys in here) we get food. The wobbling table and sloping floors are cool but the lack of silverware is disconcerting. A request for some, is met with the response "out here on the res. we use our fingers" Huh? The second interesting situation is after our climb (New years day) we eat breakfast in Why, don't ask.
The restraunt, surrounded by trailers, is an abandoned DQ occupied by locals. The walls were decorated with very large longerie, the waitress was toting a two year old and the cook was wearing a side arm(WTF). Any how seems trivial in the read but it was all better than wilcox. cheers
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Pika the dog was pretty sharp. Once at a party in Flag, I made an offhand joke about giving him a lobotomy. Pika strolled over, put one paw on my knee and set his head squarely atop it. He looked me right in the eye until I apologized and went back across the room and laid down. Uncanny incident for a smart dog!
All bets were off if you happened to be below on a dog friendly downclimb and Pika got the urge!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Colin Cox
Dr. Rubo's
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Just got back from seven days in Sedona- fantastic. Five days on sandstone and two on basalt and never saw another climber. Want to have fun- go do Arch Enemies.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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What's the scoop with Arch Enemy?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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"from the guide":
Description
Located on the formation up the ridge from The Flying Buttress. This classic route climbs over a large V-forming arch for six pitches.
Directions
Drive 3.5 miles up Schnebly Hill Road to large gravel lot on the right. Cross the road and head South on the Cowpies Trail over large patches of slickrock. Traverse left and under the formation on single-track trail.
Past Archenemy, one can head further West for the Flying Buttress routes, Technicolor and Epitaph.
Route beta
Double 0.5"- 3", (1)-3.5", (1)-4". P1: fingers to O/W (5.9), p2: Left past thin crack to exposed bolted face (5.11-), P3: Hands thru roof traverse Left at bolt (5.10), p4: many bolts to bombay squeeze p5: bolted traverse to right, p.6: Short 5.10 crner to O/W, then 4th class. Two-rope rappel.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Still no takers for Depthcharge on Submarine Rock??? Great route, easy approach and no mistaking the formation! LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Drljefe- The description sent by Mr.E looks good. The 11- on pitch 2 is short and well protected. Pitch 4 is the business- sustained 5.10 bolted face to the 5.11+ crack followed by some 11- into a flare. The crux has a bolt at face level. Enjoy!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Just looked at my description of Arch Enemies- coffee must not have kicked in. The crux is a face move not crack climbing.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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Thanks guys, sounds good. Erik have you done it? Bob J?
I must admit, I'm kinda sweatin' the coin toss...
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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An assortment of crags from the most recent download of my digital.
Mt. Lemmon -- unknown cliff, unknown route (we were lost):
Sullivan's Canyon
Racking up for Sword of Damoclese, 11a OW
Adam plugging away
Distant Vision -- 10b with lots of small gear
Jack's Canyon -- Lydia on Six Shooter, 12a
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bob
climber
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Mar 10, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Jefe, haven't done it, but Trout and I have been keen!(sp?) The line looks fantastic. Evan and I went out there to do Miami once and had some weather issues. Next time we went to do it it was gone. GONE! Why don't Trout, myself and yoself do it together? Move discussion to phone or email.
West Ridge homey. Cuando? You stay at my village. You no pay.
Bob J.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Thanks for the info update, Jim. Duly noted
Hey, I wanna play! Err...not on Depthcharge, Steve...LOL! :^]
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Adam Mayhem
Trad climber
LHC, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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"Too bad Arizona is so close to California;..... "
Being a native Zonie, I have this thought everyday.
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Here is a cool one from several weeks ago in Sedona (Mars Attacks). Mike Esparza (me) gripped out leading on two 8mm ropes and my bro Dan Cohen belaying.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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MisterE- you can do the second pitch of Depth Charge at 10a or so and a nice crack to the top of the conning tower! The first pitch is 10+ and exciting with a classic limestone overhang problem to pull above the waterline onto easier ground.
A Peter Noebels photo of Paul Davidson powering up New Wave 12a on an early repeat. As the name implies, a wave of airy clip and go testpieces were not long in coming. This is one of the most striking lines at Windy Point.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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Bump it it's gud!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mar 31, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Damn, that Donini guy sure puts all us young punks to shame.
I'm happy to be out pulling off run out 5.8 (ok, 8+) and bolted 10s... And he's out warming up on 11s so he can do the real stuff way down south.
Here's a bit I recall from Depth Charge...
Steve and Tim (??) were putting up the route. I was doing something over on the west end of Submarine with John Fleming (Up Periscope rings a bell, decent climb up that west nose) when Steve starts yelling about clearing the area. I'm lazing as the belay slave on our climb when suddenly the whole damn rock vibrates as a good sized trundle cuts loose and crashes off the base of the rock.
I mean seriously, it wasn't earthquake magnitude but Submarine is a big rock and we were on the west end, what, 100 yards away from Depth Charge, when Steve, on the lead and confronting some rather big nasties, releases the first charge. It caused that whole submarine to vibrate but good.
I think it took 10 years off Timmy's life to have that shrapnel hit so close and be so loud. It was safe, or as safe as any block down toward a belayer can be. I seem to recall a few more barrels went off that day, cleaning up the lead for the second ascent (still waiting....) but damn, if my nap wasn't ruined.
It's a pretty impressive lead, right up the middle of the big south face. Old skool pro, I don't think there's anything fixed ?
Edit:
It's looking like I have my routes confused. Musta been the shrapnel, PTSD kicking in.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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There was a beautiful handcrack up a corner and out a big roof about thirty feet up. A rickety blade of rock about ten feet tall guarded the start. After screwing around trying to stem past it, it became obvious that it was over the side for the pup! I crawled up behind it after yelling down every sort of warning and employed a power armbar!
Slowly the blade began to lean into space and head into the void. One loud klack and the thousand pounds separated into suitcase-sized blocks and disappeared over the edge sucking the rock dust along.
A three count and the charge went off at 200'! About the same and a wild shock wave came flying through the entire formation! The folks nearby definitely were not expecting that big a depth charge! Great pitch once the way was clear.
I don't recall that first pitch being too harrowing besides the block chucking at the horizontal breaks. No fixed pro anywhere on that route that I can recall
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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I believe this is the rock in question... I distinctly recall hiking around it to look at the routes on there, but apparently didn't take any other pics.
I think the route Down Periscope is on this south face...maybe about where the yellow arrow points is the start? According to Toula guide, Depth Charge is on the left side (blue arrow).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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No mistaking Submarine Rock and that is the right spot for Depth Charge. The first pitch goes up a steep wall hidden behind the formation as shown and below the limestone break.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Something or other at Windy Point, maybe over by Question of Balance?
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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OK- so Depth Charge is in the shadowed chimney on the northwest corner- I'm leading Down Periscope.
Heather Songster at the crux mantle on Down Periscope- sorry Steve, but it ain't too great of a route (better in our memories than reality!)
The rappel off Submarine Rock- Depth Charge on the left.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Since you asked about Pointed Dome- here are a couple shots.
Pointed Dome on the left, Heather and I on top of Queen Victoria to the right.
Some old-timey dudes on the summit of Pointed Dome (late '70's)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Larry- who was Kamps partner on Pointed Dome?
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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TM Herbert and Don Wilson (1959). Pretty proud runout, although I later found a pin scar 2/3's of the way up above the bolt. Did you know that when we replaced the original nail drives that the last bolt was placed improperly- with the nail through the hanger and not the whole sheath!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think those old nail drives had enough resistance that they figured they were good for the strength of the nail! I sure would rather clip into the whole show. I wonder if TM remembers that one? Did those guys do anything else on that visit?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump for climbers!!!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A climbing thread up front- thank Zeus!!!! Who is the guy with the lycra- circa?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Those were great stories, Paul and Steve! Thanks!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Zonerland bump...
Nice shot Rick.
That's one of the routes I have not located yet...
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Apr 11, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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With all the discussion about Submarine Rock, I forgot to mention the most interesting story. When Tim and I did the second ascent, we climbed a crack system alongside an old bolt ladder (self-drills with the hangers and caps removed). So when we got on top, we expected a drilled rappel anchor to simply re-rig and rap off. Instead, when we reached the NW corner of the formation (where the rap anchors are now), there was one partially drilled hole, and a second with a self-drill hanging halfway out- no bolts, hangers, etc. Fortunately we had brought up the drill and established the current anchor. But our bafflement continues (cue the scary music)- just how did the first ascent party get off? Were they picked up by a UFO? (Further inspection of the summit yielded no other natural anchors or hint of descent possibilities. I suppose a Needle's rappel would work, but wasn't very common knowledge in the '70's)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Nice mystery! Any possibility that the projecting shield would have been in the position to act as a stop for a Needles rappel? Sounds like a case of hammer failure...or rapture...or ?!?
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supesclimber
Boulder climber
mesa
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Apr 11, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Nice shot Dickbob........F-you Scotty.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 11, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Anyone out there done Vertigo Spire?
Cool spire in great location.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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How many routes on that formation?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 12, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Steve, there are two routes on the formation. One pitch 5.7 (guy in the pics is on it) and a two pitch 5.5 called The Grope that goes up the face to the right. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I heard someone's story once about it having some pretty classic Supes manky rock over there. Probably have a line on it in the Canadian Rockies. :-)
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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"...Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them..."
If you like to boulder, it sure is.
Curt
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Apr 13, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Queen Creek, much maligned by some that don't know much of it. It has decent bouldering, ask the thousands that partied there at the PBC and other times. Long routes on good rock, sans piranha teeth even. This shot is Smoking the Toad, 5.8, mixed bolts/pro, 150' long and mucho fun Donna leading, Charles belaying:
Here's Pensylenvy (following) and Dan Z on Easy Street, a cool sport route at the end of Hackberry Creek in Lower Devil's Canyon with Pinal Peak in the background. Only a few routes in the photo, some pinnacles await FAs:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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Nice shots Manny!
Lots of reasons to love Queen Creek and many people do!
Falls in Lower Devils Canyon
Bouldering prep for one of the PBCs
Bunch o' folks who think Queen Creek is pretty okay!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Here's a bit of minor history regarding Queen Creek:
Not sure when the first of anything was done in that area, being Tucson and Flag boys, but sometime around 83/84 I'd been popped for a speeding ticket near Globe while coming back from Sunrise to Tucson.
I talked Steve into going up into that area with me on the day of my "court appearance." I'd been bouldering on some of the limestone and quartzite and thought we might find something bigger.
Very odd, ticket dismissed by the Judge's secretary. "Just call next time and we can take care of it over the phone." Not your typical small town AZ traffic court, let me tell you.
We headed west out of Globe and after coming out the far west side of queen creek we turn around and head back toward the creek. We hadn't seen much appealing to a couple of tradsters but there was one thing so we and parked close to where the road starts to enter the canyon. We humped up the hill to the N towards the most obvious square "tower" where Steve proceeds to lead some 10ish (R?) bit of face/crack which pretty much rained pieces of rock the whole time. Some of them tossed off, some of them skittered off every time Steve put a foot down.
I remember we talked about the place might make for some good sport climbing (just coming into AZ at the time) if you were willing to climb right by the road and clean, clean, clean.
Don't recall if we walked off, rapped off, if it was only one pitch or two or even what Steve named it. Something to do with the ticket I think...
Other than the PBC, I haven't climbed there again. I suppose someday. Naw... If I'm coming back to AZ, I'm heading elsewhere. No offense, but Queen Creek vs Granite Mnt, Flag, Tucson, Stronghold, Sedona, etc... Not much of a decision there. Maybe stuck in Phnx for a weekend ?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Dang Mike... I didn't think I was that boring...
At least the beer was good, eh? :-)
Paul, climbing was going on in the canyon proper back in 1973 with this route (Legal Dihedral). A nice climb, but no so legal anymore as I think it's basically considered off limits by the gummint these days because it's located smack on the side of higway 60.
First climbed by Larry Treiber and partners with a second pitch done by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock. That was probably some of the earliest (recorded) climbing in the canyon.
Next up were probably most of the lines on the Little England Wall (this is on the south side of the canyon just past the tunnel) were done in 1977 by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Queen Creek is fun. I don't know what Globe is like these days, but I don't remember it as being a place to show off your lycra tights!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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There has been some climber ass kicked in Superior.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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Greg:
Tx for the history info.
Larry Treiber, now there's a name that should have come up in this thread a long time ago.
That big guy could really face climb. At Gnt Mnt: Slide Action Traction is one of his routes I believe. Also Slammer Jam, Beaver Cleaver, Green Dagger, Dislocation Buttress, The Nose, Deep Yogurt, Falling Ross, Granite Jungle, Walk Soft, Once in a Blue Moon, Delphina Lightning Ass, and ...
What's the story on him spending the night on the GM Nose (rather than just rapping down ?)
For you Mnt afficianados, Deep Yogurt is one rarely done and obscure climb that is really quite good. Two pitches up and right of Coke Bottle. Might go as one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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You talkin' about this guy?
Having never met Larry, always figured this was a picture of him... can anyone confirm? This shot looks like jugging up Coatimundi.
From the first ascent of the Nose at Granite Mountain.
Check the shot of Treiber the morning after the bivy in question...
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Sure looks like him to me.
And good GOD, those look like Kronehoffers (sp?)
Sorry I ever got rid of mine, they'd make a great pair of bowling shoes.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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I'm guessing that's Bill Sewery all fetal style in rain suit.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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That's Larry alright. I recall him looking a bit more like Jimmy Buffet meets Commander Cody!
Larry also did a bunch of routes at the 10 to 4 Wall on Kitt Peak up the road from Aquagomy. An obscure couple of areas that are open from 10 to 4 on the gated road to Kitt Peak.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Apr 14, 2009 - 09:44am PT
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from my phoenix rock copy
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bob
climber
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Apr 14, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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pk davidson, I climbed Deep Yogurt for the first time this year! It was an absolute blast. Tricky gear for sure for some parts. I just couldn't believe I hadn't done that one yet. Just sitting there getting looked at for years.
Great stuff.
Bob J.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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"I'm guessing that's Bill Sewery all fetal style in rain suit.'
Too bad there's not something, like maybe a pen, for scale.
I miss my Kronhoffers every day. if I had a new pair I would learn to yodel.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 14, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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The man...
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Tipping one to Bill, Larry and DMS
And to Bill's Hoffers (there they are again !)
Was it the late '90s when Bill moved on ?
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
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Apr 28, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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It was windy this Saturday, so we had to resort to deviant tactics..
Pumphouse Wash, right in my backyard, nothing but trees and a dirt road separates this Arizona appreciation beauty, 5 miles of them...
We came a little ill prepared. This crack was longer than we thought. Too bad. We had to set our sites upon something else.
the ultimate dihedral
now here's a bit of some unfortunate truth. I told my buddy Doug that I onsighted this route (I lied). But I did clip the first three pitons off the ground (which is a feat in itself!!). Poor Doug, sandbagged again. The moss/slab crux was pretty gruesome.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 28, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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Why, I believe that's White Wedding in Pumphouse Wash.
(the first corner)
On West Side of Canyon ?
Look like it to you Steve ?
Is there a belay in now at the top of the first pitch ?
(Take a bolt kit, it needs a belay and bolts on 2nd pitch.
see mountain project)
And Ultimate Dihedral below that.
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
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Apr 28, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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So Paul, you call that white wedding? We didn't make it up yet!!!!
Hopefully will be better prepared next time. Next attempt I am gonna bring the right gear. Looked like an anchor below the bush would make sense. I will try to find what the local knowledge base knows about this.
Edit I looked on Mtn Project and this is the crack.It's so nice I can't believe it hasn't had a few ascents. We certainly did not have triples...been there before but it's easy to forget how long these climbs are. With the right amount of gear I think we certainly could have topped the first pitch. The second looked to be a deep recessed chimney. Do you recollect?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 29, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Our first pitch belayed up in the chimney to which you refer. Which sort of reminds me that pulling out of the crack and into the bombay was pretty exciting, especially since at that point, I could see what the belay was.
The base of the bombay is where Steve had the butt/foot belay and a #3 hex sideways on maybe 2 points.
For the 2nd pitch, I went out onto the face right of the chimney. I think I remember the chimney pinching out not too far up and I seem to recall getting some gear in there and at the occasional overlap. As I mentioned on MP, I believe we had to simul for about 15 ft of the second pitch in order to make the rim and the big jack pines. But those were 50m daze.
You will definitely want a bolt kit to put in a belay if you go to the chimney and I think the second pitch can use a couple bolts.
Good luck with it and enjoy. Certainly seems odd if it's never seen a second. There is that ultimate frisbee route which might be this climb but that description makes it sound like it's in the UFC alcove. I don't know how else you could be a west facing wall and be on same canyon side as UFC.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 29, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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White Wedding for sure!
Who did the Ultimate Dihedral FA? Pins?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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Tim Coats and Stan Mish...
I think they're drilled baby angles.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Apr 29, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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White Wedding, huh?
The Doctor always told me that thing had been done before. I stumbled upon it in '96. I went up there the next time I could get a willing partner. Thinking I had done the first ascent, I called it The Beauty, a name that made it in to Bloom's "Castles in the Sand" guidebook. I don't think he gave me credit for the first ascent, however.
Anyway, I just got off the phone with Pencilenvy and told him about the two bolt anchor I put on a sloping ledge out right. Its about a 130' pitch and I used triple #1, #2, & #3 camalots (wished I had brought a #4). I called Pencilenvy a wuss for not getting to my anchors. But I take it back, you don't run it out on this rock like you do on granite.
pk & Grossman, you guys are psycho, I'm not sure what lies up above the first pitch even qualifies as "rock". Nice route, a real beauty . . .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 30, 2009 - 09:50am PT
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So's Billy!
Take me back home
There is nothin fair in this world
There is nothin safe in this world
And theres nothin sure in this world
And theres nothin pure in this world
Look for something left in this world
Start again
Come on
Its a nice day for a white wedding
Its a nice day to start again.
Its a nice day for a white wedding
Its a nice day to start again
5.10++ or so on the grade for White Wedding?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 10:22am PT
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Ultimate Frisbee (picture by M. GeikenJoyner):
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 30, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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Larry Coats came up with the name Cocoweap for the Pumphouse Wash rock.
Much sandier than Coconino, not as well bonded and certainly not limestone.
When Steve started to simul the 2nd pitch with only a few pieces between him and me and a full rope, I remember thinking,
"Great, I'm gonna die on some POS pitch the day before I get married."
I was damn glad it was Steve down on the other end and even happier when I hit the rim and ran around a big old Jack Pine.
Here's the story of the first ascent:
http://mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/pumphouse_wash/106230149
That's the beauty of a lot of the Sedona routes, no fixed gear means you can find yourself having a first ascent adventure.
I recall running into Dave Houchin at a bean fest once and him telling me about the time they did Sand Castle. They thought they were bagging a classic first ascent until they topped out on the OW of pitch 2 and came upon a fixed baby at the belay ledge. He was bummed. I told him the great thing was that he'd gotten to do the climb as if it were a first ascent. I'll have to scan slides of that climb. It's truly memorable and safe. There are other climbs in Castles in the Sand that have erroneous names and FA parties. I suspect it'll all get cleaned up with the new guide.
Glad to know WW now has a belay. Certainly a worthy one pitch climb and if one is feeling a bit psycho, there's the second pitch to lead. We pretty much had no choice but to go for the rim.
Thnx for the pic Sr. E. Clears up my confusion.
Definitely some very distinctive routes in Pumphouse.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nothing jogs the memory like a good photo.
Any beaver still living in the wash?
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Pennsylenvy
Big Wall climber
The climbing Capital of the Galaxy
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No beaver sightings.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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You have to go during swimming season to see any beaver ;)
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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tcoats
Trad climber
Utah
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Actually Paul, here’s the history of the Ultimate Dihedral:
Jim Haisley and I put in the baby angles on the mossy traverse and climbed the first pitch not too long after we stole the Ultimate Finger Crack from you. Back in those days we considered it an uncompleted climb if you didn’t go to the top, so we came back with Stan Mish and added 2 more pitches to the rim. I remember Stan leading a super sketchy pitch with bad pro and worse rock. It didn’t seem to faze him in the least. I’m sure those pitched have never been repeated.
We didn’t name it the Ultimate Dihedral either; John Madsen and Dow Davis called it that after finding it later that summer. I’m can’t remember what its real name is, probably Dyno Honers from Outerspace.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Why there's Tim....
Ya know, now I remember you and haze climbing that stuff.
Not much ever fazed Mr. Mish. However, he could certainly phase others.
Sure you didn't call it Dyno Whores from Innerspace ?
Oh yeah, I'm starting to think I might finally forgive you if you'd ever show up to any of the fall outings.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tim- Did you belay me on Shot In The Dark on the Sine Wall at the Forks?
I recall a nasty, RP protected 5.10+ R/X route in the tightest of columns.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Some more route info fishing.....
At one of the banquets early on, a bunch of us went climbing in Sedona. Herb North and I picked out a striking offwidth route and Fig and Dave Baker started up a line to the left and got stopped. I went over and finished that one too. The right one was named True Grit, if I recall, and I can't remember the left one.
DB and Fig didn't make very many gatherings so the timeframe is pretty narrow. I can't even recall the area location!?!
Another vagary...Larry, what did that one drilled angle route near the Mace finally get named. You were reading a book about the Hell's Angels at the time so I proposed Kickstart Spire?!?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Tower of Boodle was the formation ?
Dreams Come True was the Climb ?
I believe you led 1 pitch, Herb led another and Dave, Fig and I took a rope to the top.
True Grit was the climb on the next formation East
All behind Dr. Rubo's
All remembrances are sketchy...
I believe Toula's guide has True Grit and Dreams come True reversed.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Funny that you asked about that- I just finished scanning some of these. Below- you are correct that Toula has them reversed: True Grit climbs the main corner a ways, then swings boldly around the arete and into the bottomless dihedral to the left.
[img]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3K2U0FRaarU/SgDVlWGoJ0I/AAAAAAAABUU/8l-UOAKKZa8/s800/Sedona%20Dreams%20Come%20True.jpg
[/img]
And I like the name Kickstart Spire (summit of Dodger below)- it's boringly named the Coats-Grossman route in the guide. Note the chunk missing from my hammer handle- I believe you blew it up drilling the rappel bolts in your typical three blows!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Who are we fightin', who are we fightin???
Memorable line from that biker insider tell all, if I recall correctly? Right about the time that the author gets his ass kicked to end the study! LOL
My old favorite offwidthing football jersey after a bout of right side in! And Contacts!
How large was the summit of Kickstart? I remember a fairly slender formation?!?
Dreams Come True was really good as I recall. All nasty looking from below and full of good holds once you suck it up and go! That route should have seen a few repeats by now.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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How's this for a topout??!!
And there are enough stinky dudes represented in this thread.
Hows about a chick cranking B1 and smelling good doing it??!!
Thanks again SG,PD,Coats- you guys have provided a sh!tload of inspiration, past and present.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Is that top-out on "The Mother of All Boulderproblems"?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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A lot of AZ climbing is stinky dude type stuff. I remember things improving in Flag when the Pit got developed.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Riotch- not M.O.A.B. Twister.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath- lots of stinky chick type stuff too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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Well, I chatted with Jim Haisley recently and he was the mystery belayer on A Shot in the Dark on the Sine wall. His recollections about the route matched mine. Notning but a few RPs and some thin, hard face climbing on a flat portion of the wall. Jim recalls 5.11ish difficulty. Left side of the Sine Wall if I recall correctly and it likely hasn't been lead again.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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steve, how many routes have you done that haven't seen a second?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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Not very many Murry since I usually came back for a repeat myself unless the climbing was just horrid!
Topo of the Sine Wall anyone? Is A Shot anywhere on it?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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steve- that's cheating!hahaha we know you can send em' it's when others are not willing to venture up that truely makes a statment!! ( not that your trying to prove anything- just your inherantly bold style!!)cheers! edit- cool got to be the 420 post!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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No mention of A Shot In The Dark on any topo I have. Bloom is working on a new book for that area, so now's a good time to identify it and get it in there.
Where's it located?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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May 10, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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gregory-
that would be the sine wall-
also helps if you change the image name.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
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Yup... just curious where the Shot in the Dark route is located.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Just checked - it's not in our sheets...
Edit: We have Sine language: Broken face crack to triangle flake
Who did you do that one with, Steve?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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It goes up the flat area left of center. Post a current topo and if there is a blank space in that area , that's it.
I did a route called Sine Language in there that takes the jagged column bottom on the right side. I think A Shot goes up the flatness just left. Might be one and the same?
Sine Language had good deep cracks and steep jamming at 5.10+ or so.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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May 10, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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I miss the
forks...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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Here's a scan of the Toula topo... so i'm guessing it's out there to the right of #5 - Sine Language (love that route!).
Jaybrah - come on over, we'll hit the Forks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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Well, I went looking for the Forks but found these classic shots in the old slide box.
The unflappable Randy Mettler on the second pitch of Thin Slice at Granite Mountain. I listed this route as an area classic on Cmac's 100+ classics thread.
The Tim and Paul show on some fingery affair. Mount Eldon, Gloria's Rocks???
The ever fashionable and commercially sponsored Pablo Cruz on the FA of Let's Make a Deal on What's My Line Dome in the Stronghold!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 10, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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SG- you're pretty damn good at changing the subject now that we're all fixated on "Shot"!!!
Left or right of Sine Language?
Who knew?!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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Which route is #5? I have photos of that one someplace.
The line of A Shot in the Dark shown above looks correct. It is a pretty obvious line, just no pro.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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Cool, #5 is Sine Language as Steel pointed out above. Man that was a fun one!
Somebody throw a toprope on that pup and let's see if it is reasonable which would confirm where the Shot came from.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 13, 2009 - 09:37am PT
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Mystery bump!
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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Bump for another email from Bonnie:
Hi,
I just returned from a trip to find your email waiting. My apologies, apparently I gave you incorrect information. When I made the database from Bob's climbing diaries we checked and rechecked to look for errors. We didn't find them all. After reading the note on ST about the 30th being a Wednesday I checked the original diary entry. Bob had written 12-26. That wasn't a Sunday either. The actual date must have been December 27th as that WAS a Sunday. He gives the date for their Shiprock North Summit as 12-30. His early climbing diaries were put together from memory, a few records and some correspondence. There were many ommisions and dates were nearly impossible to reconstruct. But it is possible to pinpoint this one because we know Yvon missed the climb because he went to Mass. I thought you might enjoy seeing Bob's diary entry for an earlier trip to Oak Creek with Don Wilson, his climbing mentor.
Bonnie Kamps
Pretty cool stuff all around!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 22, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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Thanks for posting that up E. Very cool.
Done that East Chimneys route... 5.8... those guys were hard as nails.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 23, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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While you are talking old school, here's a little Kamps tidbit from Summit April 1960.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Bump for three weeks gone and missing my buds and FA good times.
Cheers to PE and The Doctor - may we find many more adventures together soon, my friends.
The Doctor on "Side Effects" during the FA:
Tim and I receiving our birthday gift at Cochise:
Erik
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 28, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Anyone toprope A Shot in the Dark yet?
My previous post mentions Bob Kamps next route which presumably is The Mace?!? It certainly overhangs on all sides...LOL
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Chinchen
climber
Flagstaff?
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Jun 30, 2009 - 03:36am PT
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I dont want this thread to end!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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Arizona climbing is endless...
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Pennsylenvy
Social climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:10am PT
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It was hot in Winslow. My friend had lost a dog for way to long for that sweet pup. We didn't rope climb at all. A little water soloing and there's this new crazy gizmo at the reservoir.
from past photos.... Winslow a place full of beauty
I know there was a thread about this but I'm just going to do it here........0
shameless bump
]
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Pennsylenvy
Social climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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O.K. shameless bump ( because it's me in the photos ) someone took some good photos on my camera..
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 02:42am PT
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Scanning topos, la-la-la are you down with the sickness?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Damn nice topos.....
for a city slicker!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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Dresdoom...
New scanner, trying to figure it out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Where is that Shot in the Dark?!? Bump
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MisterE
Trad climber
Meeteetse, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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I'll just post one "after".
3 hours of Photoshop manip to get it better - doing this with over 200 topos, not all take this much time:
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 20, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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kwit
climber
california
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Aug 20, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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drljefe:
is that ^ 'what's my line' in cochise?
k
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 20, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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kwit-
no. west stronghold, sheepshead, ewephoria, bolted 5.7, fun
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richross
Trad climber
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Aug 20, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Being hatched at the Grand Canyon,1975.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 20, 2009 - 02:40pm PT
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BlackGeorge
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 20, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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Hey, Where is that??
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 20, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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Photos I posted above are from Granite Mountain near Prescott.
Here's some pics of an ascent of Bill Williams Spire near Williams from when we climbed it 15 years ago. Posted in the BWS thread as well.
The spire from the approach... we climbed the side facing the camera.
Approximate line we climbed... I thought it was sorta stiff for only 5.9, but then it was thin hands, so I was disadvantaged. :-)
My buddy Tim on the first pitch of what we climbed...
Tim's girlfriend (wife now), Karen coming up the second belay.
Karen rapping off the north face.
My guess at the line of the North Face route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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I don't recall that episode Pablo?!? Do tell...
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 21, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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sword of damocles
i remember that one now
was originally rated 11c
11a is more accurate
not sure how much of an ow it is, the biggest piece i placed was a 4 camalot
thanks for the trip down memory lane
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BlackGeorge
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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How ever can a 20 foot boulder be rated V13??
Just a hunk of junk sitting on the ground.
Pate is not to be trusted and should stop spraying.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Coke Bottle Chimney?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Top pics were Karl's Korner (5.9)
Other (chimney) pics were Guillotine Flake (5.7) over on the right side just past Grody Coyote area. Did that a couple weekends ago just to knock it off. Last route I had left to do up there easier than 9+. Was sort of interesting in a chimneyish sort of a way. Personally, I think a true 5.7 leader would see God on that route, but that's the Mountain. :-)
I always thought Coke Bottle was a really good route too. Gotta love those 50 foot runouts if you don't have a #23 Friend.
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bob
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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Pate, do you mean the Hump Crack? 5.10 fist over bulge to ow. Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals. Short, but full of the goods. Like the last bit of Cinnamon Girl. Inconspicuous little corner after the perfect handcrack at the top of Sorcerer/Kingpin. Step (way big) left and start crankin. I did it yesterday for the first time in a long while. PUMPER especially greasing in the sun. The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet.
Ahh the Mountain.
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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"Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals."
Ha ha. Story of my life at the Mountain. :-)
"The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet."
We were just noticing Camptown Races the other day. Knew it was there, and have looked out there before, but kinda put two and two together. Looked nice. You done that one Bob?
You can see Webster's (?) pin sticking out of the wall on the Thin Ice there as well... yikes.
"Ahh the Mountain."
You said it brother.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:59am PT
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What sort of shape is Cinnamon Girl in these days? Top of my to do list still!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Been looking at knocking that one off myself. Not sure whether the bolts got replaced or not... anyone know?
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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I seriously doubt the bolts on Cinnamon Girl have been replaced. There hasn't been a lot of bolt replacing going on up there that I know of. I was thinking I'd try to get up there to fix up a few routes this season and CG was on the list. What other routes besides this would you consider next on any list of routes to be rebolted?
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bob
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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Cinnamon Girl has bad bolts but c'mon folks your gonna die anyways. Just don't fall on that thing. Its easy 9. The top crack is not 10. Harder, but then again, its 10.
Most of the routes on the right side either have new bolts, or were put up recent enough to have good enough bolts.
A big justice would be Cinnamon Girl I guess for the head, also the last pitch of Tom Thumb would be service for sure. Don't know about Ed W's route Thin Ice. Not Thin Slice, that's got new bolts. Thin Ice I believe only had pins and only has one BAD one now.
Pate, from the sounds of it I think maybe you are thinking of the top pitch of Granite Jungle. Its rad OW and pretty burly if done wrong. Not wrong, just done a certain way. That corner system is one giant one over from the coke Bottle corner. Delphinia Lightening Ass, Dream Weaver start there as well. What a great pitch that Granite Jungle. 9+++++++++ or 5.8.
The Girdle has been all rebolted............Rusty B. rap anchor after the traverse on Once in a Blue Moon to get down to the ledge below the 9 face pitch of Kingpin, but if you want to free it in the rating range ya gotta down climb that pitch of Kingpin to the ledge then head over to Candyland. My bud and I did it that way. Boy the seconder has quite a lead on their hands. The high route goes for sure, but @ 11. It will go. It will go. Go Go.
Lotta nice bolts on those old routes now. Not all, but quite a few. Sheet, Dream Weaver has a new bolt on the last pitch. Still have to crux out with barely any gear before you get to it, but........I think its a bit lower than it used to be, but heads up!
No more pins on Whiteout. Just two bolts at the beginning. Those went in along time ago. Way changed the nature of those first moves. Once in a Blue Moon sprouted a bolt on the 10 traverse pitch. Sometimes I clip it, sometimes I don't. Depends on the day.
Anything else?
bob j. on lunch.
ps. Bill I'd like to do some of that stuff with ya if you have time.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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I'd contribute time, effort and hardware to swap out some of the remaining old junk if you need some help.
Would be nice to meet you guys as well, put names to faces.
Granite Jungle offwidth...shudder....
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fluffy
Trad climber
chainsaw city
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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"I want to know how a line like Sword Of Damocles can be rated anywhere near 5.11. it's a 35 foot climb in a choss-heap canyon that is best top-roped. rusty baillie ratings are not to be trusted, or sprayed about."
you sound angry
angry and confused
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
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Pate - don't think Dreamweaver is offwidth.
Second pitch is a hand crack (starts out 4" and gets smaller), then third is dihedral with a bolt as I recall.
I think Bob was talking about the last pitch on Granite Jungle.
About 6"-9" wide pitch black maw of torture.
It's over there near Cheiu Hoi (in fact, the OW is just left of the last pitch of CH).
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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Right here dude...
It looks so innocent.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Anybody know anything about a Leo Henson route at Granite Mountain out on the arete between Candyland and Good, Bad, & Ugly called Rattle and Hum? Just curious if it had been completed or was just a rumor, or whatever.
Photo to keep things on topic...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Shot from the top of the buttress to the right of The Face.
Damn...gotta post another shot now...
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Aug 28, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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That's funny Bob, and you're probably right. Actually it doesn't look any worse than many runout Sierra slab climbs, but those bolts are pretty suspect. You in town? I'll be looking to get some time up there this fall. Give me a call, there's new things happening... Thanks for the offer Steelmnkey! Nice photos, too. Lizard Head, woo hoo! I always seem to run into rattlers when I'm out there! I've heard of Rattle and Hum, but don't know much about it either. Isn't there a bolt or pin or something that leads out there? I'll let you all know when things come together for any rebolting efforts.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Thanks bc. Anytime. Might be looking for partners this fall as well if you're interested. I'm pretty much down to one remaining that's willing to hike up there.
Made it up to Lizard Head once. New Years Day, can't recall the year, but do recall that the wife wasn't particularly amused by the bushwhacking we did. :-)
Another angle on Lizard Head, shot from the top of the right side.
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
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steelmnky- I climbed parts of Rattle and hum with Leo during his putting the thing up. I recall (barely independent?) climbing along side candyland at the bottom, then a cool pitch up a slabby crack into and out of some sentry box looking feature ( maybe a bolt or pin here ). Dont' recall how he finshed it , but he did climb the whole thing. The name had to do with rock quality down low.TM
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Dang Bob, never heard of anyone else doing the Girdle.
Not sure but I suspect Tim Coats and I bagged the FFA of it over to the Kingpin ledge.
While the traversing pitch onto the ledge was wild, crispy critter 5.11 I thought and much worse for Tim on the second, I thought it was free climbing the Blue Moon pitch that was out there.
Where's the bolt on it ? Shiixx looking at the Cramer "guide", it shows a belay at the bottom, 2 bolts in the corner and one over the top of the corner !? WTF, what I recall is one manky ole Rusty bolt in that area. Also Cramer shows the Altar of the Sun pitch 8 as being A1, we free climbed that bit in '82.
Retro bolting at GM, wow, what have things come to?
I guess folks have to know about the route to avoid over bolting it.
The way we did it, the rope went around a nasty corner to the base of the dihedral (think we were belayed in or near witblitz), then some moves up that I recall were not all that well protected, flared stemming?, then some 5.10 at the top of the corner. Is that about right ? As I recall, somewhere in there I got to clip a bolt and it felt pretty good to do that even though it was manky old. I don't recall if it was at the base of the corner (I think maybe it was) or higher up.
The belay at the top of that Blue Moon dihedral has to be one of the more spectacular ones at GM. Hanging out in space fur sure.
I see AofS shows a belay over on the face ?
As long as we're on The Mnt, anyone ever repeat Brimstone ?
If nothing else, as I recall the first pitch was actually some good 5.10 crack climbing hiding out right of Granite Jungle and left of Cheu Hoi.
Steve, I'll have to think about that biner unclipping and write it up.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
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When I saw this clipping up thread I thought the story needed a little fleshing out. Like many news stories it’s got some basic facts but lacks the finer detail necessary to really appreciate it. Here’s the way I remember it.
I had come to Flagstaff to climb with Tim Coats, Larry’s younger brother. We had begun climbing together as kids in Farmington. By the time we were in college Tim had far outstripped me in both ability and courage, so I was hoping to get dragged up some good stuff on this trip. Tim didn’t disappoint me and we did some great climbs.
One of the routes we did was Firecat, a really fun adventure for me. I’m pretty sure Tim had done the first ascent not too much earlier. We had taken Larry’s dog, Pika with us. Pika had quite a reputation, he had survived being run over, and among his other attributes he would (did) fight any male dog he encountered. He could really be a handful.
We got back to town late in the day and sacked out at Tim’s apartment. He lived next to The Alpineer, the store Larry partly owned. Tim’s place was close to the back door of the store.
Larry had been barhopping and came by to get his dog. He woke us up and we talked about our climb for a few minutes and then he left. We went back to bed only to hear Larry screaming at the top of his lungs a few moments later. We barreled outside sure that Pika was ripping up some other dog, but no.
Instead we see Larry, running backwards down the street, dragging a big Indian guy by his hair. This guy is on his back, flailing away at Larry trying to break free.
The chain of events went something like this: after leaving us Larry got into his car and pulled into the street, glancing at the front of his store as he went. He sees that the front door is smashed in and boy is he pissed! Having endured a couple of break-ins before, combined with being a little liquored up, he was ready for action. So he quickly pulls back into the parking lot and sends Pika the terror dog in through the back door of the shop.
Pika runs in and takes his normal position in the store, just another day at the office. Larry follows him in, thinking it was cool since Pika wasn’t acting up. He walks in and heads to the front to check the damage, only to come face to face with the robber, who was trying on some boots. The dude immediately breaks for it, out the door and running down the street with Larry in hot pursuit.
Larry can easily outrun this guy, but soon realizes all he’s doing is getting farther from help, so he grabs a handful of this guys hair, jerks him over backwards and starts dragging him back to the store.
About the time he gets to the store Tim and I make the scene. I help Larry sit on the guy while Tim sprints barefoot through the broken glass from the door to call the cops.
When they showed I remember Larry having to convince them that the aforementioned boots were indeed his property, as they were so scuffed up from being dragged for half a block.
All in all, it was quite a day.
Michael Smith
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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Thanks nickd that was killer!
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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pk, The girdle in the "guide" is from info I recieved from Rusty. He called it Alter of the Sun, with a FA of the complete line in 1973. Not certain where or when the bolts showed up in the dihedral. The A1 pitch on the topo is not for Alter. At that point Rusty has it as 50' rap from the belay at 7 down to the ledge, not the A1 shown out right of 7. I don't exactly recall where the A1 description for this section came from. How hard was the climbing at that point? bc
Edit: Rusty did not have any FFA info on this and I failed to find out anymore about it. Your ascent is probably the FFA.
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bob
climber
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Aug 29, 2009 - 09:21am PT
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I led Brimstone in its entirety last year. Finished on Cracknup. If I could have had a brain to think with upon reaching he crux of Briimstone I would have sh#t my pants, but no room for thought. Just get r done. That is by and far the most dangerous lead I've done up there. Brilliant hidden gem really, but one will hit the ledge if you blow the last, crux, move on Brimstone. Last pitch of Cheu Hoi up to cracknup is one hell of a stellar pitch. One of the best at the Mt. Kinda like all the rest!!!
My ride is coming! Off to the waterfall!!!!!!
Bill I work at the PC warehouse now. Around full time these days.
Bob j.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 29, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 29, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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A little blast from the past... from the '73 Lovejoy guide:
THE GIRDLE (incomplete), 5.9, A?
FA: (1973). The climbing on this route, so far, has been done by Rusty Baillie, Roy Smith, and David Lovejoy.
Pro (1973): Most of the pitons needed to climb this route are already fixed. Carry a small selection of angle pitons and blades, plus lots of nuts.
On British crags, when most of the vertical lines have been completed, it is traditional to establish a route that horizontally traverses a large portion of the cliff. This sort of route is called a girdle. On Granite Mountain a girdle route is gradually being pieced together. After completion it will be the longest route in the area and probably the first Yankee Girdle. It will be characterized by the lack of easy pitches, comfortable belay ledges, and fast means of escape. THE GIRDLE will be an almost totally free route, which will cover many previously unclimbed sections of the cliff, far above the ground. THE GIRDLE is presented in this guide in order to make the publication as complete as possible.
Start from the top section of MAGICIAN move right to the top of The Grid.
Use a high fixed piton to safeguard a descent down the obivious crack in the left hand side of The Grid. Down-climb the crack (5.8) until it is possible to traverse out right (5.9) towards some obvious ledges which lead right, to a good belay stance in the CHIM CHIMNEY crack. Protection using the upper belay will probably suffice, although there are some good nut placements on the traverse.
Continue out right and up a sloping ramp to a fixed piton. Follow a handrail right to another fixed piton (5.9). Move down a sloping crack and then up over a bulge (5.9). Belay on a stance on CHARLES WELLINGTON HICKS.
Continue along a moderate handrail leading right. Halfway along there is a resting spot and good pin placement. Continue (5.8) to a belay on MAGNOLIA THUNDER PUSSY.
Note: From this point you can easily escape upward to the top off the cliff. This is the only place on the remainder of the route where you can exit upward without encountering at least 5.8 climbing.
Move right, across a broken area to a good ledge. Continue right, pass blocks, and slide into a crawlway (5.6). Crawl to an awkward crack belay on GREEN SAVIOR.
Crawl right a few feet to a fixed piton. A0 on this piton and the two bolts which follow it. Then climb free, right, to a good-sized platform on WITBLITZ.
The next pitch has not been completely climbed but it will probably traverse right to the base of a hanging dihedral. Move over a bulge to a sloping ledge at the base of the dihedral. Climb the dihedral and belay on a sloping ledge at its top on the left (at least 5.9).
This pitch is also unclimbed. Move right to a grassy ledge on SORCERER.
Climb 25 feet up SORCERER to a small ledge (5.6). From there make a short rappel to a sloping ledge with a bolt anchor.
Move right along the top of several cracks, using one pin and one good nut for protection. Move up and clip into a bolt and make a hard move (5.8) to the junction of COATAMUNDI WHITEOUT. Swing right to a semi-hanging belay on two bolts.
Climb the fourth class crack above to broken blocks and ledges beneath The Roof.
The next pitch is the same as the fourth pitch on CANDYLAND. Make an extremely delicate move up to the roof (bolt for protection). Hand-traverse out right, around a blind corner, and awkwardly throw your body into a crawlway. Crawl to a belay by the junction of a vertical crack. (3 fixed pitons, 1 bolt, and 1 nut for protection).
Continue right along a ledge as far as possible and then set up a long pendulum rappel to a two-bush ramp on THE CLASSIC.
Climb the remainder of THE CLASSIC to the top of the Flying Buttress.
Finish, thankfully, up the HIGH EXPOSURE EXIT.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 30, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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*BUMP*
Hey, BC- I saw you mentioned in this months Sunset Magazine as a top up and coming artist. Congrats. Post a link to your amazing paintings please. Jefe
Thanks to all you Mtn Afficionados!
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Aug 30, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Jefe, yeah I heard about that. I'm not sure how they heard about me. My website (blog really) is www.billcramerpaintings.com. Thanks for asking. Cool GM photo!
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Aug 30, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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GBU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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bob
climber
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Aug 30, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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GBU is one of the best free climbs I've done. Felt like big wall climbing.
So good.
Bob J.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 31, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
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SO many nuggity sections up there, right?!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
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Great write up Mike. I well remember Larry still being pumped the next day, and the next, and the next....
Bob, well done. That's exactly how I remember it. Zip up to the move and then do it without considering the consequences. But I do recall it being a nice little gem. Probably deserves a bolt or two to make it repeatable. If someone wants to do it in the first style, they could just no clip the bolts...
Greg: Thanks for posting that up from Lovejoy's guide (one of my prized books!)
The free climbing on Altar of the Sun never got above 5.11 but there was some testy 5.10 and crispy 5.11. I've always really liked girdles but they are not for everyone. You don't really get a rest on the second.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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500 posts, how many other States could garner that many?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Five hundred and we ain't even getting going. Whole lotta hot rock in AZ!
Shot in the Dark?!?
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Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
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Well I'm never one to miss out on a picture thread. Arizona has been good to me.
John Borland and Mt. Hayden
Mace Descent
In deep on the Mace
Mars Attacks Traverse
More Mars Attacks
Windows Route Fun, Sedona
The formation that holds Mars Attacks and some other great cracks.
(that is a big pano, click here for a larger version http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/425271134_coxgh-X3.jpg )
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Sa-weeeeet!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Excellent shots, PW!
And who hasn't enjoyed the flared grovelfest of "The Pirate" (5.10d) at The Cathedrals? Tom Grundy leading:
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Here's The Dr. on the Labor Day weekend's trip to Winslow. We spent a day out of the storm in the canyon. David jumped on Slap My Fro after I did Dark Star, a lovely OW.
I'm just getting into the wider part:
David Bloom on another great AZ climb:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:26am PT
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"Slap my fro"? Manny, you're speakin' my language, tell me more!
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kwit
climber
california
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Sep 13, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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hey all,
this girl is headed to paradise forks for 4 days end of september. maybe winslow wall. so excited--haven't been AZ climbing in years.
any beta on camping near PF (official CG or dispersed better? i can't remember what that little campground like or how close it is to the crag)?
good warmups (5.8/9) and must-do routes (i'll be scared sh*tless leading the low 10s there, but partner will be cruising hard 10s/easy 11s and he loves o/w)...?
and how far is winslow wall from PF?
thanks everyone. all beta appreciated. k
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 13, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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You can camp in any one of a few sites found in the forest just pas t the turnoff for the Forks on the opposite side of the road.
Can't miss it, first right turn after passing the Forks lot. Just in case...camping in the parking lot for the Forks is strictly not allowed!
Not that many routes in the 5.8 to 5.9 range... try the Pillow Wall, Black Rose, Mayflower and Fool's Game on the Prow.
Lots of info here:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/paradise_forks/105787813
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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Some more Sedona maps I have been working on:
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 17, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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Arizona has really great climbing, ESPECIALLY, if you avoid Queen Creek- Yuk!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 17, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Wonder where you went climbing in Queen Creek?
There are some pretty good routes there... and we're trying to save the place from being caved in by a copper mine, so have a little respect!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice, Rox!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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ROX!!!
Well, you are definitely older than me! Whether you're more American, well...... ;^}
Core shots dude.
Edit-
ROX, the Beanfest still happens, though I have a feeling it's a bit different these days.
I was first beaned in 87 at the East Stronghold. Restrained, and intimidated by the Beanmaster and his henchmen, a bottle of tequila held to my mouth, I was inducted. Those were wild times for a grom just starting to climb, made even more intense by the fungus amongus.
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 10, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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FFA photo of The Unicorn at G.M.; Circa. 1985. James Gaun of Flagstaff, leading the ultra sharp, perfectly parallel fingertip crack ... Route is between Falling Ross, 2nd Pitch -- and -- Dream Weaver on the Right side of the mountain, seconded and thirded by Tim Toula, Rand Black.
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Oct 10, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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Nice one RB! I lost lots of blood on that thing.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Those Flag guys killed it....still do!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
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You got Tequila? Allls I got was beans!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Yeah Bro, and your hair would get smeared in to the dollop. We were told if we removed the beans "They" would find us and....
Here Here!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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In the right light, I can still see it in the mirror it was either '86 or '87...
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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1982 FA photo of "Secret Journey, 5.9, A3+, Rand Black, Dave Houchin" a 150 foot free standing sandstone pinnacle aid climb at 34.9315º N; 111.6798º W; 5,266 msl. near Secret Canyon, Arizona.
First Ascent took over 5 hours to lead, because R.B. was too scared to climb past the hibernating hornets in the thin crack. Finally found the courage and drilled a baby angle to runout a coupla free moves or two to the top. Then got to Rap off two tied off brittle bushes all the way back down. Much Fun!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 16, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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Nice shot of the Unicorn FFA. Thanks for posting!
That crack has a few bats in it these days. Heard them
squeaking it up in there a couple of weeks ago.
More!!!
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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Love this one at the Mountain ... my favorite way to the base of Slammer Jam
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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Mike Long Leading Rhythm and Blues - 5.10b, at the top of Troon Mountain, Windy Walks, Scottsdale McDowell Mtns.; Circa. 1982
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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I believe I have the first onsight free solo of that one...
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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RB leads on 30º overhanging sandstone of formation Todd Applewhite and myself called "The Cape." An overhanging sandstone junction upstream from the Ultimate Finger Crack/Dihedrals, etc. in Oak Creek Canyon/Pumphouse Wash Junction ... For the Record, I was so scared after drilling and hooking on the lithified sand dunes of the Coconino Sandstone of the 30º overhanging sandstone ... I was 70 feet up on the hypoteneuse and was looking at only maybe falling 25 feet onto jagged talus sharp sandstone blocks ... needless to say ... drilled a baby angle at the high point and BAILED with my tail between my legs! (on a side note) the crack to the right of this I did with Todd in 1986 (or so) and was awesomely excellent ... a route called "Saved by Zero, A3" (don't have any pics of it) .. RB
PS - The angle is actually pretty close ... it's way steep!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2009 - 07:51am PT
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RB: just down from Jungle Wall? By the old Middendorf Aid lines?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Oct 26, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Where's Houchin these days ?
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Pate -- Thanks for the Bump
Mister E -- not sure where duecy did his lines but I am sure it is upstream from there the Lat/Long/Elev I estimate the area of the "Cape" to be:
35.0354ºN; 111.7148ºW; 6130 MSL (it's a major drainage junction)
PK Davidson -- The last time I hung with Dave H. was back in about 2002, when he came up from AZ to visit me where I live now, in Enumclaw, WA.
If you want to contact him contact Jim Gaun in Flagstaff ... he can hook you up with Dave.
 Great to hear from you all -- I am sure there is more to this thread to be discovered.
RB
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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Oh, Mister E, I wish you wouldn't refer to those aid routes as "Mddendorf" lines. That one was Todd's project, he had drilled the ladder on first pitch, I only came along at some later date and led the second pitch with him. The second pitch was more natural, and fairly spooky if I recall correctly, but it was still a pretty vague line going nowhere. Steep wall, though, Todd was pretty bold in that respect.
I like to think of myself of more of a free climber, outside of Yosemite and Zion. Aid climbing in Sedona was more of a sideline--of the 100's of routes I climbed in Sedona, only three were aid: the first pitch of "the Tooth" (solo), the Mushroom (with Stan Mish), and the second pitch of Todd's project.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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RB, I have a battered old copy of your G. Mtn. topo that I hate to lose, and which is rapidly fading away. Any chance you have additional copies? I would gladly pay replacement/shipping/beer... Thanks for the awesome topo and routes, Atch
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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I used to run into Dave H. here and there around Phoenix, but haven't in a long time.
RB: I asked this a long time back, but do you know if the free version of the Nose at Granite Mountain has had a repeat? Thx.
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bob
climber
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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I'll pay for that too!! Seriously.
Bob J.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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I have the Waugh (red), and Lovejoy guides. The RB topo was awesome as it showed lines not in the Waugh and Lovejoy guide and was the same size as the El Cap topo posters. Unfortunately, it didn't survive well in the pack...
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Sorry, Deucey - That's what Bloom calls 'em. I'll pass the word along.
BTW, there is only one aid line in the new Sedona guide, and it's in the Church area.
Thanks for the clarification, Erik
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Hey deuce4, FYI, Jim Scott and I freed (Jim led) the first pitch of aid on the Mushroom and looked for a way to avoid the last aid pitch (a corner out left- no go.) DDC and I did a route on the other side, but it also has some aid. Free the Mushroom!
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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For those who want a pdf copy of RB's Granite Mountain Topo
just email: elcapmap@hotmail.com
I will arrange to get it scanned into a pdf format to transmit.
Deucy ... you know how much you helped me with it all ... thanks .. I really enjoyed the ride!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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So ,did any of you folks ever throw a toprope on A Shot in the Dark after all my badgering?!?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 16, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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hey there all, say, just stepping in and enjoying this arizona climbing appreciation thread....
i always loved arizon, we traveled through it as kids, when we all moved from ohio, to california (hee hee, so chappy coule be a rock climber in yosmite--well--he was about 3? then???)....
well, then last, after i was married, we took whatever regular souther highway and always (during the ex's national guard trek to san diego, from texas) SAW the neatest ROCKS! AND wished i could scamper all over them!...
most likely some of you all have seen them... ?
huge accumilations of bolders, along one stretch of the highway... wonderful to see...
i have a small pic of my kids posing by some---will scan it later, just can't remember which highway it was...
ROCKS ! everwhere for that long stretch... :)
*reckon they could have been full of snakes, though, so good i never took the kids too close...
very nice climbing shares, here... thanks so much... :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 16, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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hey there say, could not find any info on what highway we were on, and the picture did not scan (it was sealed in the frame)...
but:
i DID find this odd-neat-find:
OLD VINTAGE postcards from arizona... :O
*i suspect, that we had traveld the old route 66 or highway, 66 though, now that i think about it...
here is the post card links (they take awhile for all to download)
http://www.thepostcard.com/walt/state/az/az.htm
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Another classic shot of Bob Kamps from Summit July/August 1963.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I have posted this early Grand Canyon article elsewhere but it certainly fits here. Pat Littlejohn and John Mothersele did a sweep through the desert in 1979 and put up a couple of routes in the Stronghold and wrote this account in Mountain. I had the pleasure of watching Pat float up Butterballs the same season.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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"While the Grand Canyon's social scene is not fantastic, it is many times better than Yosemite's"
Classic!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It all depends on the company you keep.
More of the asses in the canyon have four legs.
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hooblie
climber
sounding out stuff , in the manner of crickets
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i blew a coupon on the kaibab...
alpine start from phanton ranch, trudging solo up the trail with a tall frame pack, christmas break '69. a wrangler led a train of mules downhill,
each with a pair of railroad ties much longer than the animal, and no other riders.
i mindlessly stepped to the right and continued walking on top of a retaining wall/curb thing as the train passed. the drop below would not have been survivable.
the last two mules were less constrained than the others, "fishtailing" one might say. sure enough i got smacked in the chest with the extended rail
behind the caboose and bladed out over the abyss for an instant, momentarily clinging to my creosoted assailant,
finally thrusting my center of gravity back onto the trail as it passed.
at this point my stupor had cleared, abject indignation prevailed, and to top it off i was being berated in a very western way
from the front of the string by a seriously rude cowboy
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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MACE STORIES
For years driving through Sedona I would stare at the Mace as we were off to climb at the Overlook. How could you not! The formation is every climbers inspiration. every artists inspiration, besides a vortex. My friend Rich and I decided to take a vacation spending 4 days at Paradise Forks. Rich didn't lead much so I cranked out everything I could. We were new climbers at the time just barely cranking through the 5.9 routes. Wow were my muscles spent! Paradise Forks totally rocks! I ended the trip with sending an onsite lead of Davidson Dihedral. I was dumb, not knowing what I was doing and nobody told me it was .11+. Wow was I jazzed. Then we went over to Standard Forks 5.9, which totally wigged me out. People were screaming jumping 50' off of the cliff into the pond below Waterslip Down, the cracks turned into flakes and I pulled out every Royal Robbins trick to pro the route, and Jimmy Symans kept yelling at me from across the cliff "Good Job Marty Good Job." I went from being a hero to totally mentally defeated. Jimmy was climbing (leading) Aqualung with Deidre Burton with a broken ankle fresh from doing the jump across on the Mace the week before. I mean big wrapped ankle in a brace doing the jams. Jimmy suggested to Rich and I to do the Mace on our way home and Rich agreed lead the crux pitches since I was spent. Sounded like a great adventure to us. Before we left Jimmy warned us not to pro the limestone band at the top of pitch one. A bird otherwise will hit you in the face.
We arrived early at the Mace and I got first lead. At the pitch one limestone band there is a nice crack so I stuck a nut in it and got hit in the forehead by a swift. Damn near knocked me off of the ledge! Rich died laughing as I regained my senses. Unbelievable!!! The crux pitch 4 is awesome. Pillars all around which slowly disappear leaving you with an angled crack leading to a distant piton bolt. Of course the bolt is loose and can be pushed in and out 3/4" or so. Scarry but you gotta clip it! The jump across was totally awesome, what a great route!!!
The rappel off of the formation is from the lower pillar not the top of the Mace, that's why you have to jump back. There were two chains so we fed the chains with the rope and both rappelled into the notch. There still is one more 100' rappel to go. We tried to pull the rope but the rope was totally jammed. We tried the flick and pull tactics, both pulling on one line, and nothing was working. Besides it was getting dark and cold. I decided to jug the line via figure 8 belay and one arm lock offs. One end of the rope was tied down. I would pull up on my prusik which was looped around by wrist and then pull the slack out of my figure 8 device with the other arm and yell to Rich "lock off." He would pull the rope into a firemans belay. Repeat the process for 120' in overhanging chimney. Let's just say I was bleeding pretty good around the wrist by the time I reached the top. More survival and had no choice type of situation. The rope appeared to run freely through the chains but since the chains were small ovals, and the chains did not lay completely over the edge, it would trap the rope more and more as you pulled down onto it. That sucked! I added two 4' gold slings to the chain links then me and Rich were back at the car before you knew it.
A few days later another team of climbers (I can't remember their names but mom and dad) did the Mace and saw the two gold slings and laughingly removed them, fed their ropes in the chains and fell into the same trap as me and Rich. They tugged, and tried everything but nothing was working, their ropes were jammed. So they decided to chew through the rope tails on each end, tying the remaining rope segments together to get down the remaining rappel. It took them 1 1/2 hours to tear with their teeth through a 10.2 diameter rope, and they both finished at the same time.
A few days later my friend Doug climbed the route with a few Boy Scouts and came across the chewed ropes. He decided when seeing this that it was time to rebolt the route. A few years later I went to Jacks Canyon for a one night camp climb and dash home trip. I just started the campfire and suddenly my friend Doug appeared. He was up there to meet the Scouts for a next day climb. Soon afterwards a mom dad and two kids came to the fire and we decided to share the one fire. We got into the conversation about the Mace and without even knowing each other, we all shared the same adventure that single week on the Mace. They still had my gold slings, and Doug still had their chewed rope.
Doug eventually returned to the Mace and rebolted it but he never told me. I ran into him shortly after at a store or something and he told me he had just threw out those junk hangers that morning in the trash. I was like "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Doug is more engineer than pro climber so a mangled bolt to him is trash. I rushed him to his house and the large city trash can was still sitting on the curb. I tipped it over and shuffled through the trash finding two hangers. I kept searching for the third then he mentioned he didn't get the last one (step across). On this day the trash never smelled so good my friends! I looked at him and said "This is history my friend, HISTORY!!! I tipped the trash can back and right then the garbage truck turned the corner and he is the first house on the street. One minute more and these bolts would have been lost forever. The pitch 4 crux piton bolt was even more exciting when I noticed it had TM stamped on the side. Amazingly the Star Dryvin nail bolt was only 1 1/2" long, and it moved to the point you could pull it out with your fingers, but it just would not come out. Doug said it came out with one small tug. Scary! The other hanger was homemade angled aluminum (airy crossover pitch two).
That just meant that there was one more original hanger on the route, the step across on pitch five. The following weekend I dragged my Bosch and friend up the mace to retrieve the major historical item. As I climbed I was totally filled with excitement to have the whole set of original bolts from the Mace. When I topped out on pitch four I was instantly put into shock. The step across hanger was replaced and the homemade aluminum hanger was gone! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I mean I was almost in tears! We did the step across and on the main summit I got to see Dougs new summit register. He said he spent a big coin to have it created but it should last forever. He inscribed all of his kids names onto it which are written at the base of the register. I noticed that the last people up on the Mace was Jeff Achey from Climbing Magazine. Climbing was filming for their next Mag #186 June 1999 Flagstaff issue and had just climbed the Mace. I called Jeff, who bumped me back to John Burcham, which led to Albert Newman, who had the Historical Relic in his tool box. The set was once again back together.
A year later I visited Tom Taber and looked at his great collection of climbing gear. I was able to borrow only a few pieces of his gear even though I gave him my best begging performance. Doug suddenly whipped out two pitons which were the original pitons used on the second rappel out of the notch on the Mace. This was an amazing find. Now all 5 original climbing anchors which were used to climb the Mace, and were left behind in 1958 are back together.
Arizona Rocks!
Marty
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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Thanks so much for your contribution to this thread, Marty!
Heal soon, and Rock On! Erik
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Yeah, what MisterE said.
Just got a before the storm circuit in at Glorias.
Ever done "multi pitch bouldering"?
Amazing adhesion.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Montezuma's head, cool adventure
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Ripped from Salmon
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Big AZ history bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That was one of the late states, right?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Har har! but you know, that was one of the things i really liked about living in Zonieland. no time change! I had family in Cal and in wyo, and I knew I was in sync with one or the other branch at all times. Not that helped my dyslexic mind waddle through it... Now living in Cali with the time shifts, what a colossal pain in the Ass! "spring forward, fall back" from a certain perspective aren't those phrases, interchangible? either could mean anything!
I like the idea that it's darker earlier etc some times of the year, it keeps you more connected with the planet you're part of. like watching the full moon. should we average that? like always have a quarter moon? Artificial time manipulation is so un-gaia!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Yeah man, AZ sux.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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The weather sux too. We just did Grandfather Hobgoblin this January. It has a reputation of sorts. It was great climbing and a great big spire. Mike K climbing while Andrew Burr shoots him coming up the final scary runout to the summit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hey Manny, I may be doing something photgenic in the SW in April. i'm interested in upgrading my photo rig. What model Nikon DLR are you running? which lenses? quanto megapixels? There are a couple of options at Costco I'm looking at...
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Pate, I'll have to ask Andrew, never did ask him. He's fast at changing lenses for sure. Jaybro, I'll email ya. It is a stellar route. Does anyone know of another finish other than right up the middle?
Blessedly, the noise factor was non-existent. It was a weekday and maybe the tourists have gone the way of the economy!
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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where about's is the hobgoblin thing?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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There are at least four different finishes that have been done over the years.
A sketch of the options looks like a football playbook...
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Superstition Mtns at the east edge of Phoenix is home to the Hobgoblins and many more big outings on volcanic rock. The Hobgoblin Spires are in Suction Gully, Spiderwalk is at the start of the gully, Grandfather Hobgoblin is in the back. Suction Gully is found off the Siphon Draw trail just as you reach the west face walls.
Pate: that's a 15mm lens
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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thanks manny and sac, definately on the Feb agenda. Ive done weavers needle in the Supes and have been looking for other adventure climbs in the warmer parts of the state.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Take a helmet and watch out for loose rock and old bolts.
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Ripped from Salmon
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My father, Doug Black, did the FA of Spider Walk, with Floyd Theobald and Jon Beimer (I think) in the late '60's or early 70's. All I know is that he said it was sum pretty "loose" stuff ... but you know the sups! They rock and roll!
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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If you climb in the right area the Sups have some of the best rock in the state.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2010 - 02:58am PT
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Tamo bump
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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dickbob.
barry dude with el mullet- classic!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That guy belongs in a ward!
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Ripped from Salmon
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How about this one
This one is worth a week in the WARD! (ha ha ... Barry)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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We called that rock, Mr Potato head.
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Feb 10, 2010 - 04:09am PT
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KNKNK.+ CRSTY
AZ DREAMIN'
Love you.
Have a good trip
A.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 13, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Spider Walk Day - Superstitions
Crying Dinosaur in highlight...
First pitch overhang...
Second pitch runout face...
Third pitch chimney...
Fourth pitch - 5.7 direct var
Coming down...
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Feb 15, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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Beautiful rock, you can take home all you want. The route is only mentally demanding. The position is awesome, as usual for the Supes' west face.
Oh and the first pitch overhang must be missing a bolt. Second scariest part of the route for me. Missing the second pitch anchors and climbing too high then downclimbing maxed out my fun meter.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Feb 15, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
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The only hot springs near Sedona are on the Verde River east of Camp Verde. Should be easy to google. Campgrounds abound in the area, the safest would be the pay type. Have fun and email if you want more specifics.
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Feb 15, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Limestone in the Huachuca's and near Bisbee. I miss southern AZ.
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Feb 15, 2010 - 09:09pm PT
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Mark,
Spent some time scouting around those bands of limestone near Bisbee myself,
Did you ever come across any "quality"
Or hear of any?
A.
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Feb 15, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
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sac,
no, not the best of quality but the band that I pictured I never made it up to and it looks ok?, at least from the road, its off the west side going north out of Bisbee after the tunnel. The Huachuca band is taken from Carr towards the Fort property.
Mark
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Feb 15, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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You can drive down some roads like Dry Creek Road and others in the area that will put you near the sandstone but camping on sandstone would require a bivy. Maybe the 4wd road near Japhead parking may be close enough to the car and far enough out of town. That would put you in the center of lotta sandstone.
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Feb 16, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Hey T*R,
There are a few of us from Flag on here.
"aka safe for 2 girls traveling solo" Hmmm 2 does not equal solo.
You should just find a nice spot out on a FS road. They might not be open in April though. Lots of snow this year. I think that would be safer than being around people.
There is a few nice CG down Oak Creek Canyon.
Verde Hot Springs is a good spot.
Verde Hot Springs has a lot of regulars and "long term" campers. I don't camp there. But there is nudity there :)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 16, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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Spider Walk continued...
Manny said: Oh and the first pitch overhang must be missing a bolt. Second scariest part of the route for me. Missing the second pitch anchors and climbing too high then downclimbing maxed out my fun meter.
Just saw that comment...I don't know where you got the idea that the overhang had a bolt at any time. The topo and info from Waugh's guide in Jan. '87 doesn't mention or show one, there wasn't one when I originally did the route in '93, and there is no broken off bolt hole/sleeve at the overhang indicating one was there. Just wondering??
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Feb 17, 2010 - 09:39am PT
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As for "missing" I should have said "wished for" a bolt cause I didn't see any signs of a missing bolt either. Might be the wrong spot; Greg, is that the spot with the loose block I didn't use for pro? It may be further up the route and not on the photo shown.
Spider Walk is a long uncomplicated route where routefinding is the main concern. Still, it was protected at key moments, except for this one. Maybe I was just feeling soft, but I don't remember finding squat and feeling very exposed.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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Found this on Mountain Project - photo credit Pernell:
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 25, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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t*r:
"i wish we could xc ski at the north rim of the GC! it would SO COOL. unless we fell off :P
i should start researching that. bet we could rent some and go on an FS road up there.
"
From the Jacobs Lake turnoff (end of any plowed road or at least used to be) it's 40 miles to the rim. 20 to park boundary and then another 20 to the rim.
It has been skied in a day if you skate it in good condition, but then you're biving on the N Rim and either walking to the S Rim or skiing out.
If walking, take ice gear for the one formation you have to cross.
It's also been skied in over a week with -20F conditions and blizzards everyday, this was by a strong party (Baxter/Karlstrom and others) so it depends a lot on the conditions.
The North Rim Tour, it's absolutely classic but it's not an afternoon outing.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 09:09pm PT
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Was there less than two months ago, and everything seems the same. Even drove down the road and looked for closures.
Don't forget your boulder pad!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
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if you look really really really close you can see me and The Doctor on top of End Pinnacle after we did End Game two weeks ago.
AZ climbing blows.... why... just look at that choss pile!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
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Locker - access at QC has not changed.
Bill made it out of the committee in the Senate, largely via being ridden and whipped through personally by John McCain. Not sure when it would go up for vote there.
Still stalled out in the House thanks to Raul Grijalva.
That's the nutshell view. Climb on!
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Feb 25, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
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Hey Locker,
Look me up when you're over here. I'll be happy to give you a personalized tour of Oak Flat.
Curt
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Locker, I went to Lower Devil's Canyon to climb the newest additions at the east side of the canyon. The road in had been recently graded again, making the drive in possible with a high clearance vehicle. Rains since then may have cause erosion; haven't been since two storms (one today too). That has turned out to be a lot of good rock, including some pinnacles. Have fun.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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gcclimbing - we did have it all to ourselves. no chickens or people there the entire day.
Two weeks ago on a Saturday on a beautiful/perfect day and nobody else climbing on them. The Rockfellers close Monday. Hmmm... word must be out about that choss pile.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Closer shot of someone on the top of the End Pinnacle...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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Here's one from the Arizona way back machine...
The Kachinas on their first outing to climb Weaver's Needle in the Supes in the late 1940's.
L to R: Dale Walser, Ben Pedrick, Ed George, Roy Gray. The photo was taken by Ray Garner.
Ed Goerge was one of the two climbers who did the first ascent of Pinnacle Peak near Phoenix as well.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Feb 27, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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Nice!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The photo from Weaver's Needle above was taken on or about November 30, 1946. According to the Kachina records, this was the third time the Needle had been climbed. They climbed both summits.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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We had a great day bouldering in Superior. There is a lot to do in this part of AZ. Mike, Angelina and I pulled on conglomerate quartzite John Sherman turned me onto:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Was it a topless bouldering day? :-)
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Mushroom, can't remember if this from the original route or south face.
Klondyke Wall..
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
State of Insanity
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:58am PT
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Let us not forget one of Arizona's most classic Traditions,
Camelback's Praying Monk ... on Christmas Day!
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Keep it coming! I may have to dig some more...
tr: Did you do Secret Canyon? That is a great 2-day slot-canyoneering trip through 3 or 4 different riparian zones...
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dave Sparrows
Trad climber
AZ
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Apr 23, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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Bong Tokes on the Wheel!
one of the many Kingmon area gems.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 23, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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Dave, what route is that?
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R.B.
climber
..
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Apr 24, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
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Is that on Hualapai Peak, SSE from KingmAn?
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R.B.
climber
..
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Apr 24, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Do you have your browser set for larger text size?
Edit: me too, Klondyke is on the right, I don't remember that being that way a few days back
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R.B.
climber
..
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Apr 24, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
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The problem appears to be when looking at a thread with SHOW ALL loaded, that the banner ads freeze up the browser. That's what just happened; so I did a reboot and only looked at it normally, problem solved, however, the Klondyke photo is on the far right. ... hope this helps.
Edit: Some funky stuff going on, not sure why.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 24, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Photos have a bunch of white space (included in the actual picture file) around them as far as I can tell. That's what's messing the alignment up.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 25, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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Sorry about the blown out walls, I deleted the shots so the problem looks fixed. I'll repost corrected pics when I get home. I'll add a few to make up for my transgression.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 14, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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Bump
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
|
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May 14, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
|
Nice Sedona shot
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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May 14, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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You guys are kicking Wyoming's ass. Super cool thread. Oh yeah climbed at the Beardsly Boulders once. Is ther pics of those.
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romand
climber
|
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Jun 21, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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Some more Sedona love...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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Season's in full swing for a lot of it, now, too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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We got Fools Schwingin' all over the place!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Sep 19, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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Look at all those Bumps! Just begging to be climbed...
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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Ultra vires!
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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See if I can add something tonight.
Dave B. and I went up to west elden the other day. Had heard some pretty old school names associated with this place. Not alot of trip reports out of me but I'm keeping the faith getting out a good bit. Only three pictures taken that day. Here's one to keep this forum on topic. I'm gonna see if I can add some more as I go.......
cheers to our friends who broght this good idea to Winslow.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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Storytime?
The Book of Friends is open...Rich Thompson photo.
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scott baxter
Gym climber
sedona, arizona
|
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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Steve, Storytime. I've got a good Rich Thompson story to tell you. In person.
Scott
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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I was trying to remember how that route got it's name?!? It was pre-gizmos...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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Nice route...not so nice when we got rained, sleeted and snowed off it.
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romand
climber
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
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Some more pictures from Book of Friends
Starting into the crux, glad to have "friends"!
higher up in the corner
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scott baxter
Gym climber
sedona, arizona
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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No, it was the first time I used those gizmos, and I was glad to have them! Rigid stems. That's how it got its name. And Steelmnkey, nice wired stopper pro-ing the first pitch?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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The Dawn of the Gizmos!!! That's right!
Nothing "critically easy" (as Robbins once said about Friends) on that one! LOL
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Yikes! 666!!!!!
Those pictures of the 'book of friends' look so good. Shamefully I have not done this route....after riding up and down oak crek canyon for years.
Hit list .... check.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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Gotta get yer nose into the dirt son, if'n ya want some gold!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 15, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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Book of Friends is rad!!
On the second pitch, DL got his foot stuck and I had to climb up from the belay, untie his shoe and wrassle everything loose. Classic Sedona shennanigans.
Then we topped out in a raging thunderstorm. No rap anchors then (now?), we ended up doing this major canyoneering descent, rapping off logs wedged between walls and what not. Took longer to get off than to do the climb!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2010 - 09:09pm PT
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That "canyon" you descended down is now a sport climbing area called "The Doctor's Office", with 40 routes - mostly 5.11 and harder.
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LittleAddict
climber
The Ibm stellarsphere
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Oct 15, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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Manny used to have a dog named Gizmo.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 16, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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mmmmmm crack lovers.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:01am PT
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Catherine Connor on Symetry 5.10+
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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Dave Bloom on Differntial Equations 5.10
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Is that some new stuff? Very nice shots, Tim!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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North Rim, June 5 (?) 1996
the next day,
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 21, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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gcclimbing,
Nice picture. I live close and would like to climb in the canyon. Getting stoked to go to Granite Mountain on Saturday. This is a great guidebook.
Lucky to have a ropegun here, but they just give you the 'easy' pitches ..........
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 21, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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Doug Daniel on The Watchtower
Sedona
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 21, 2010 - 02:50am PT
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didn't want to leave this gem out...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Technicolor Bump! Momma don't take my Kodachrome away!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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The Seven Gorges, Sedona. Plenty of FA's for the intrepid!
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Dec 22, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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Just so I can get away from the politards tonight, spamming the taco with another Arizona Climbing picture: Nicole having fun at Queen Creek
and at Mt Lemmon ... she really tore it up. Laughing her way through cruxes....wish I could do that...
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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For Arizona climbing, one should have Arizona-made equipment:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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Damn Straight!!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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so is the campground at the Pit permanently closed or is that seasonal?
I was there in October, and it was closed.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
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AZ swimming holes are stellar
I think this is 5.9... wrong! Paradise Forks
this wolf hybrid came from AZ.
The desolation of the landscape in NE AZ is pretty freaking pretty
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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Speaking of desolation, who's been out to the Klondyke Wall??...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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not the Klondyke.
never been.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 27, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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Endgame P4.
Endgame, part of P3,4&5 visible.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hankster- Did you Walk Soft On Cloud to complete the Slice?
This is Too Tall Randy Mettler on that alternate finish.
GOT EDGES?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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What else did you throw yourself at?
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jan 11, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
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Arizona isn't all fun and games, serious stuff too!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 11, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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bat roof, the draw
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
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Thanks Hank! Did you ever go back?
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 11, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
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Thanks Manny-that was such a fun weekend! Hiking into Isolation Canyon with 8+ inches of snow was so cool!
-C
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Prolly but the LZ could be problematic.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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Sedona season is in full swing!
Nice stuff everyone!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 12, 2011 - 09:50am PT
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Pate said
"fyi that's jefe leading a stout 5.5. notice that he didn't name the route........"
Thanks Pate, I forgot. The route's called Debut 5.5. LOVE that route.
BTW the crux move on Debut is harder than anything you ever did at Groom Creek. I tried, marc, I tried, you just weren't cut out for bouldering, or Arizona.
OK back to appreciating Arizona.
Nice Mendoza shots!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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How about that Sedona article in Alpinist #33? Made me start twitching...LOL
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 20, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
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Made me start shaking...
naw, just wish there were more of Burcham's great shots.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 12, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
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Get a piece in Paul!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 26, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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Or not...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 26, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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Speaking of Sedona...how 'bout that Epitaph?
That thing is pretty nice! Bummer the upper pitches aren't as good all the way to the top. It would be a total classic.
Midgley Bridge
The route...what a cool roof.
Roof looking a smidge bigger from below... very cool!
First pitch... nice splitters.
Second pitch... even better jamming!
Getting up into the roof...amazing pitch!
Climbers topping out on Queen Vic
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MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
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Great shots, SteelM! I can't wait to get back out there this spring - that one is on the list!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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Nice mini-TR Steel!
5.10-ish?
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mottaaa
Trad climber
tucson
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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mottaaa
Trad climber
tucson
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:19am PT
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mottaaa
Trad climber
tucson
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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mottaaa
Trad climber
tucson
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Mar 29, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 29, 2011 - 09:37am PT
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S.G. - Epitaph gets a 9+ rating... the roof is the interesting pitch. Some tricky friction sandstone slab for the feet while the hands are jammed up into the crack above.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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Looks tasty and fun at that grade!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 30, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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someday I'm going to go back to Sedona.....
Steelmunk, got any wide roofs stashed away?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 30, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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Jaybrah - they gotta be out there. Lemme take another look...
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 30, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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jaybro-
there is a thing I did with ddc around the left end of what's my line call "the bet" (If i can free it and not curse once). 8-12" roof crack (but has a wall on one side).
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Apr 10, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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Next upon the list.......Tooth Rock. My job will have me driving by it many times this summer. Talked with the doctor about it and he's game! Biggest Spire in the Desert Southwest!!!??? Longest route in AZ? Sounds good. We better get at it before it get's too hot though.
Paging radical...................
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nature
climber
Kovalum Kerala India
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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^^^^^^__^^^^^^ WOW!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Apr 16, 2011 - 11:34am PT
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Hope you guys looove sand in your teeth! That formation is super soft and crumbly. The whole excarpment is full of walls and towers. Be sure to hit the Vermillion Cliffs Lodge when you're done as they make a nice Mixed Grill.
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MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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Wild and wonderful:
See the baby head?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 23, 2011 - 10:33am PT
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Bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 23, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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Hey Erik, I heard about this book coming out... hallucinated that I had once held a proof copy in my hands....
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MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 01:16am PT
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A nice shot from a couple weeks ago:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Marty is one of the grand old men of Tucson climbing and a good climber! He taught me some aid technique and was very helpful giving advice way back when I really needed it.
Did you know him back when he put up Duck Soup on the Sunshine Wall at Suicide? No partner listed in my older guides. Do you remember anything about that climb?
I have done it and recall the clipping stances being a bit dicey but it was put in on rappel, at least in part, if I recall correctly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That is hilarious and right in character!
Marty had that mojo working when I was hanging out with him also. I need to find him next time in Tucson.
No recollections from Duck Soup?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Just interrupting to say that Warbler, you
were post 777, which means you're the
"Neighbor of the Beast".
And...
¡Viva Tucson!
Continue gentlemen.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Did he ever pop his front tooth out for you just for fun?
He hit himself with a wrench right in the front teeth and had a bridge that he would sometimes let drop out of position for effect with a grin.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Bump for the Dez...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 10, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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How bout some Mt Lemmon recollections there, Steve...
The mountain is open again...been getting some good monsoons.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 22, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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C'mon bump
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 21, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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Heart Cave
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 28, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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Damn, I need my Granite Mtn fix.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Mt. Senyala or Señala in Arizona
Here’s an Arizona story, the first ascent of Mt. Señala on April 11, 1960. The project was the brainchild of Don Myers, a PhD candidate in Chemistry at UCLA. Don had seen Mt. Señala from afar on an earlier trip to Havasu Falls. The peak sits on a bench of the Kaibab plateau out of Havasu Canyon. Three earlier attempts had been made by Bruin (UCLA) Mountaineers, but none had reached the peak itself. The land is cut by canyons, steep and difficult to navigate. Leaving nothing to chance, Don had aerial photographs of the area and we planned our route using a desk top stereoscope. We found out that it was nothing like being on the ground. At the final hour four of us from UCLA were in the project, Don, Mike Sherrick of the first ascent of Half Dome, Jim Wilkerson and me.
We drove out to Arizona and parked on the rim. It’s downhill into the Havasu village near the falls, and in those days only accessible by foot and hoof, so we backpacked down. It was known that a store existed in the village, so I didn’t over pack on food. That was a bad idea as things were expensive and of low quality. I got a can of tuna and it had a lot of bones in it. That never happened to me before or since. Life on the res.
To reach Mt. Señala we had to get out of the canyon. Don knew the way from previous attempts, up a steep area of broken cliffs. The crux was a section made by the Indians with holds chipped out of the sandstone. We went out of the canyon thinking it would be a one day trip to get to the peak and back, so we only carried climbing gear, water and a little food.
The rest is more or less on the following pages of the Bruin Mountaineers sheets.
One item needs explanation, Mike Sherrick’s injured finger. Being intelligent young men at a good university, of course we acted like yahoos when we found no trace of anyone having been on the summit before us. The yahoo instinct is, of course, to build a cairn. Mike still had his hand on the rock he was placing when Jim plopped one on top. Mike’s finger looked pretty bad, but in those days all you could do was hike it out and drive to the University for your Free Medical Care. Apparently we were so concerned about Mike that we stayed a day and went swimming.
Bill Amborn
The goal
On the final slopes to the top
Yahoos. L-R Wilkerson, Myers, Amborn. Sherrick is the photographer.
The original writeup
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Outstanding historical TR Bill!
I can't wait to see if anyone else has ventured up this obscure temple...by any route.
What was up with the prior UCLA attempts?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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This is about the time of the year when one really starts to appreciate Arizona.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Always sort of cracked me up that we would pack up all our stuff and go running over to Joshua Tree for Thanksgiving, only to freeze our asses off and climb very little (at least before this global warming thing got going good). The warmest climbing in the country was back home in AZ. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha.
Shot from yesterday...
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BBA
climber
OF
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Steve - The Bruin Mountaineers were more a peak bagging group until Bob Kamps arrived on scene joined by Dave Harvey, an older friend of mine from East Bakersfield High. Then I came along and was gung ho for the sport, too. Dave faded, but we did a lot of things together.
The other attempts at Senyala may have faltered in crossing the terrain to get to the peak, or it was just more enjoyable to sit in the warm waters of the Havasu Creek than wander in a snake and cactus infested landscape.
Wilkerson had an encounter with what was called "jumping cactus". It had such thin spines with little hooks on the end that you didn't think you would get stuck, then you feel it and involuntarily pull your hand away and it seems like the cactus jumps at you. Of course Jim was the one who asked why it was called jumping cactus after we warned him, and with a recoil and exclamation said "It jumped!" Now you know why...
I sometimes wonder what happened to some of the characters I encountered. On the web I see a James A. Wilkerson became a mountaineering health expert after being an Emergency Room doctor at UCLA. He wrote a lot of books. Was that the same Jim who squashed Sherrick's finger?
The next photo is of the gods of the indians (at least that's why they said we oughtn't climb them).
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 22, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 22, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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Location, location, location...
Where you boys (and girls) shootin' these?
Bill- Did you and Bob get out very often BITD?
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Bump
Location, location, location...
Where you boys (and girls) shootin' these?
Wouldn't you like to know . . .
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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[photo[photo[photoid=227924]id=227923]id=227922]
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nice shots people!
Location location location!
Adventure awaits, Santa Catalinas
Anvils, Sedona
Az DRL
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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In Arizona right now!
Strangers on Pocket Puzzle yesterday.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Dec 10, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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I'd always heard it named Mt. Sinyala (or even Sinala or something like that.)
I believe Bain and Rink have been out and done it and that I have to imagine Ohlman went out there (seems like he had the second, aka the 1st, see below).
I seem to recall in the late '70s Baxter kept trying to get us to mount an expedition out there. It sounded like a total hump just to get out there and then dealing with the tribes, etc.... At the time, I don't think anyone in Flag was aware of the '60s ascent because Scott kept raving about it being the last major unclimbed summit.
Gotta luv the state where you can do the 3rd and 4th ascent of something and on occasion think you're doing the first.
Great Canyon history report. Thanks for the post Bill.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Dec 10, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
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Couple of FAs from last spring.
Sorry, had forgot the camera and so my son bought one of those cheap shoot and develop models.
Cactus Thieves was Derek's first trad lead. Not a bad way to start.
Helter might be 11. I thought the lower very thin dihedral had a couple of very hard moves and thin fingers but I'm not climbing at that level anymore so ...
There is a bit of runout at the top of the thin corner to move right into the hand crack. You first reach the crack where there's a bit of less than stellar corner but sinker hands.
If you do it, don't miss the fun face at the top out right, avoids the broken shixstacks out left...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tear it up Derek! Runs in the family!
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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No pix but getting to the Pit this time of year is certainly more difficult than anything I climb.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nah
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Man, without crampons I ate sh#t a good half dozen times on the way down. Way harder than that rig. There's a good 10m section that may as well be WI5. Fun times once you're at the thing though. Perfect weather.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 23, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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Go team Davidson!
Edit, team pit 2!
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pleasantOs
Trad climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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granite mountain is sick...i thought the needles approach was a bit long. AZ's got cacti and all sorts of extra GNARL!
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AZ-OW
Trad climber
Granite Mountain Wilderness
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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This is where I learned how to climb and where I learned how to live. Much love for The Mt, The Forks, and Sedona. Thanks Zona!
Thanks for a great thread. This place saved my life.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:10am PT
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Great shots there AZOW.
I can relate.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:00am PT
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+1 AZOW
Nice shots!!!
('specially that first one! Bwa-ha-ha-ha).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Nice shots OW man.
I can't wait until the bird closures are over to climb there peak season. Granite Mountain is the best crag in AZ hands down!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Man, some of those photo models is hot!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 24, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Granite Mountain looks very, very, very cool!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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Be there ...or settle for less!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 25, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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It is, Mike, it really is.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 26, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Bump!
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 26, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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Hooray for all that's good in Arizona!
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dmons
climber
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Jan 26, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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here here!!!!!
which one of you was it again, who got around to finding john rosholts body after he layed for years 20 feet after from where he fell off a trad route?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 28, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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D(u)m(b)ons:
Roshalt died in Red Rocks...
Nevada
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Jan 28, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Just want to make sure the Grand Canyon gets some love...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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Nice Canyon Shots!
Ok Grossman, how's your memory?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Back before gyms, this is where Tucsonans learned or practiced climbing.
Still a great spot to get a quick pump and watch the sunset.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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My memory is...Obscured By Clouds...$$$$LOL
Before the land was developed and we lost access, the Campbell Cliffs were the heart of the Tucson bouldering training scene. Perfect little spot.
Bob Murray and Frank Abel were out seeking boulders but they didn't have much company BITD.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Ding ding ding!
Obscure Rock.
Pretty sharp for an old fakka!
Base of that crag a bit krispy now post-fire.
Yeah, did my first tr's at Campbell cliffs...
Photos in the 85 hs yearbook!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Gates Pass boulders, yeah! Any pictures of the glue-on "gym" in the culverts underneath Father Kino??
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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John on Mission to Mars 12d ! Great send!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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One of the most amazing things about climbing in Arizona is the solitude. I was at a tremendous sport climbing area on Saturday with not a soul in sight. Supposedly this is normal for this area. I also get to climb world-class cracks at The Waterfall while rarely seeing other parties. Over a hundred classic cracks all to ourselves.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Feb 16, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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bump...can't wait to get back to the Stronghold , one of my
favorite places ....too good a thread to die...and so tired
of seein' that fe#&kin political thread
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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What is the situation out at the Cwm these days? Anyone climbed there recently?
The best 5.8 handcrack in a corner in AZ is out there. It's A Beautiful Day!
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Hey Steve, after 25 years of nobody going there one of our local developers added maybe 10 new quality routes to the south side last year. I believe they are on mtn proj under Volunteer Canyon. No new action on the sunny side but It's a Beautiful Day and Trafalmador stand the test of time for sure, especially at their respective grades, 5.8 and 9+.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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Mar 10, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Sorry I missed the sushifest; thailand was a nice alternative. When I returned I found a lot of old photos. This is me leading the big roof on Granite Mtn with Jay Anderson belaying; unfortunately, due to four 90 degree turns, I fell all over the final moves.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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Damn, that got my hands sweating Manny.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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That was a good day. Except for the rope drag.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Here's how they roll all new-style... climb out of the corner under the roof, do the traverse out to the crux, stick a couple pieces in, then lower down to a single bolt below (actually a protection bolt on the section connecting Once Upon A Time to Coatimundi). Then your buddy comes over, lowers off, and you launch from that belay to turn the roof.
Rope drag schmope drag.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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...and to think Reveley and Greene would have fired that in March 1976 if they had brought more than t-shirts. Their last day they made it to the base of the roof and got frozen off after that week freeing "Sly's idea", "witblitz", "adam's rib" and a few others....
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Damn Greg...
That looks like one bolt (how old) and one piece and a jam between the leader and the deck a few hundred below ? brrrrrrr....
But I always did think that would be a really cool way to turn the roof. Stemp Kingpin and on up to the roof. But from what I've been told, a lot of the challenge of turning the roof is the traverse over and dealing with the rope drag.
For shore, that was a proud week by Reevely and Greene back in '76
Didn't they also free the Dreamweaver crux, using Crack'N Ups ?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Yeah, I think it's just one bolt.
If I had to guess, I'd say they considered the one or two cams in the roof above to be part of the anchor. Maybe not too bad, if they're solid and the belayer is lashed to them as well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Coatimundi Whiteout Roof is definitely the one that got away for me in all of Arizona.
I still kick myself for not taking a look out there at 5.11a!
Everything at GM isn't as hard as it looks as the face holds just keep showing up...usually!
Anyone rebolted Cinnamon Girl?
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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That roof is hard! I have climbed many a modern 12a trad climb that felt easier then that thing. The traverse getting there is a kick in the pants too. I couldn't understand why my leader was breathing so hard on the traverse. Then I got on it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Paul and I did the second ascent of Sly's Idea thinking that it was an FA.
We were going to name it After Bathing at Baxter's keying off the Jefferson Airplane song.
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bob
climber
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Cinnamon Girl has been replaced, but does it matter? Its easy, but man one would crush hard on that pitch in certain places.
Good stuff.
Bob J.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks for the great stories and pics, everyone!
v.2 coming soon:
photo: J.Burcham.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Big sandy bumps...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 22, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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Centerpiece on Chimney Rock, I believe. One route left of Single Lens Reflex.
You may be amused to know that the third pitch headwall on Days originally had only a single bolt...But that is another story!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 22, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Steve,
Would that be this one, not many on this I recall, one or two maybe (in 2003)
Or the next, which was about 5.8?
The architecture on the descent was awesome, the rap followed the line of a wicked looking off width thingy - very scary to contemplate climbing it.
With timezones and all, are you up early, or late, it's 2130 here?
Best,
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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The third pitch is the first photo and has three bolts these days after we added a couple when we completed the route.
Late my friend...and early!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
|
Bump
Steve
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
|
Blakey cleanin up!
Nice tick list you got there in the Stronghold.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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There's more yet...but this thread's like a poker game - yer don't wanna show all yer hand too early ;-)
It is a fantastic place. I had the privilege of living for 18 months in Sierra Vista, only 50 min from the Stronghold.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 27, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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C'mon folks......post up!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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Apr 28, 2012 - 03:49am PT
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Hi Steve,
I was on Abra with Courtney, who was a 'recovering crack climber'!
He linked pitch one and two
I remember the first pitch as very straightforward, the 5.9 second pitch (5.9 ho, ho) was the work of the devil. I at least had pants on. Court wore shorts. Somwhere half way up I recall an old bolt, out on the right edge. How that was drilled was beyond me. The fabulous finger flake was a romp by comparison. A funky move out left at the top to the belay was spicy.
At that point we bailed - it was bitterly cold, early Feb I think and in the shade
So we called in on What's my Line on the way out which I managed to do free.
I did most of my climbing out there with Courtney, a very fit bloke who I've sadly lost contact with. I think he's out in SLC now. If anyone knows him tell him to drop me a line.
never had a bad day in the Stronghold - an absolutely magical place - and virtually unknown in the
UK.
You and your buds were the cats who got the cream!
Steve
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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I think this thread still needs some shots of Leviathan Dome-- anyone? Alas, I didn't take any.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Actually a couple of cool cats of the Empire by the names of Littlejohn and Motherseal visited the Stronghold back in 1979.
They did Echoes, the first route on "Dappled Dome" as they called it at the time.
The name should have stuck but somehow the much less colorful Entrance Dome did.
The also did Wishbone on Cochise Dome.
I had the pleasure later in their visit of watching Pat stroll up Butterfingers in Yosemite like it was a VS!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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I had the pleasure of sport climbing (gasp!)with D Baker on Mt Lemmon this weekend.
Great guy!
I had to tell him he ruined my life.
Why?
He sold me my first pair of climbing shoes in '88.
Maybe my teeth would be in better shape, maybe I'd have some savings, a college education, more brain cells, less crows feet...
Nah.
Actually, Dave, you saved my life.
No regrets.
And thanks for all the stellar routes and for running Tucson's only climbing shop.
I love rockclimbing.
Love my home state, my local mountain, fellow natives.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
|
Great shots, Blake - thanks for keeping the stoke alive.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Just for you then, some of Warpaint .........
Next bit is a little messy, but takes you to the base of the main event...
Which I got, woohoo!
Courtney got the steepening above, here's looking back down at the belay from above the bulge.
Coming up the slab below the pitch five belay.
And the last pitch, I think this may have been an alternate finish - anyone know?
All the while enjoying the unique stronghold ambiance......
I never had bad day in the Stronghold, and regardless of when I was there, mid week or weekend, usually we had the place to ourselves.
It was really busy that day - there was a party on Moby Dick!
Steve
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
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Warpaint is a fun one. Top it off with Cotamundi Corner on the hike out!
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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The initial moves on Warpaint will wake you up!
And I love the view of Elsie the Cow as you get higher.
Da Animal Guy messin' with Da Doctor on Sheepshead:
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
|
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As Rod !!!Stewart says, ...some guys have all the luck: like Mr E cherry picking 'Arizona Appreciation Thread'. This thing will get to one bazzillion posts and make every Californian and even Roxjox moving to AZ! So here's some more fodder:
starting with the classic radical on the classic mace!
Saturday got on Elysian butress for the first time (wow I've lived here for 14 years and hadn't done this !!!!!) Met a new and great climbing partner this day
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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I found this lurking in my digital library. I can't recall the name of the park, but I'm sure it was East of the Stronghold, and that someone said these slender pinnacles had routes on them.
The guide would make for an interesting read.... Climb pinnacle 236 to it's summit 140' 5.11. Next, climb pinnacle 237 to it's summit 130' 5.10, next climb........
Can anyone shed any light.........
Steve
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Chiricahua
|
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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That's it, cheers.
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Yup and climbing isn't allowed on those slender spires though some folks including Bob Kamps did some routes there early on.
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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That's an amazing and intriguing shot - reminds me of The Needles in South Dakota. Some of those pinnacles are so skinny!
Thanks for that. Who knew?
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romand
climber
|
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A few more spires... plenty of adventure left out here.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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A party enjoying Endgame, West side of the East Pinnacle...
And pausing at the second stance...
Slabness high on the Sheepshead - Peacemaker perhaps?
Hell in a Handbasket (perhaps) The Isle of You.
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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May 13, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
|
No climbing allowed in the Chiricahua National Monument folks and please don't push it.
But there is a bit of history here and Bonnie sent me a couple of shots from the Kamps collection.
Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell on top of what they called Big Balanced Rock circa 1958.
Tom Higgins on Pinnacle Balanced Rock circa 1967.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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May 13, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
|
Heck Steve,
I have to 'fess up'. On one walk with the family I did solo up pinnacle 2594, that was the 176th on the left side of the main circular trail, somewhere around about, approximately circa mile 2.7. It was right next to another distinctive pinnacle, and there was another just beside it, it was kinda green coloured- you will know it for sure!'
I will retrospectively name it for the historical record, (these things are important, and I know you are a history geek) .... 'Tis a little known fact that the Union Jack is still part of Hawaii's State Flag'. 10' 5.3b (ish)
Sadly, we did not have a camera that day so the high standard of proof required of contemporary new routers cannot be met.
But dammit dude you just gotta believe me - or not......
More seriously, for everyone other than Steve, for he will know the answer. What do you see here?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 13, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
|
Yup the Chiricahuas. We (ex wife Michele and dawg Alobar) spent thanksgiving
There once. Great hiking, would be cool trailruning as well. We went there because Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman used to winter there when she was a seasonal ranger, and they told us about it.
"you want to climb, but since you cant,i t's still spectacular and worth it just to be there"
I don't think she ever steered anyone wrong!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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May 15, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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And to bump the climbing theme;
P1 of Cragaholics Dream
More of pitch 1,
P3
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 19, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
|
No takers for Blakey's query???
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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May 19, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
|
Looks like you're going to have to go for it Steve..........
But, does your encylopeadic knowledge extend to this?
Where is it? ;-)
Steve
|
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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May 19, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
|
Cochise's Head.
I don't recognize the last shot.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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May 19, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
|
Yes! You get the Cigar for the first (of course).
The second are a series of Limestone crags high in the Huachucas, on Montezuma's Peak.
There were some sizeable chunks of Granite thereabouts as well, geologically is was a seriously muddled up spot.
Regards,
Steve
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
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May 19, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
|
Mt. Lemon is covered with good routes, and you can go higher or lower depending on the climate in which you wish to climb.
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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Been in touch with the AZ Crew lately - there's some new, exciting climbing going in some of the above-the-rim canyons east of Flagstaff recently.
Also, from Manny's FB page:
Exhausted after finishing new 4 pitch route in West Clear Creek! A short walk, rappel 4 times and climb up!
Unlike ·
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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May 22, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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Looks like I need to get on Elysian Buttress soon.
We are still getting new routes in Isolation Canyon.
Tim was climbing well. Started with The Proposal and finished with Bear Claw
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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May 22, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
|
Perf up on the Lemmon right now.
Love my local mountain!
100 down here
70 up there.
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Nice, Manny! Looks great - man, I love the climbing at Iso.
Since Manny is much too humble to toot his own horn, I will say it:
Manny just self-published a climbing guide to Manny's Playhous...err..I mean Isolation, available through this website:
http://isolationcanyon.com/
Congrats, Buddy. Skip says Hi!
Erik
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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May 22, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
|
Howdy Mr n Mrs E!
West Clear Creek is perfect. Nice long routes. Lot of wide as it seems all good long sandstone routes require it.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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We enjoyed stellar weather and daylight. Walking along West Clear Creek we found some great lines. Cmon out Mister E!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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Didn't see no lines on this last week. Wassup?
I'm kinda thinking this could use some traffic too...
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
|
Lisa S onsights Panza Roja at Paradise Forks
Mike B walks up On The Edge
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Coming out on the 28th, Manny! Can't wait to check it out!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Jun 14, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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MisterE
Social climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 11:05am PT
|
Putting together some pictures for the slideshow.
Jump monkeys, jump:
(photo credits: L. Coats, W. Hugus)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:23am PT
|
Done both of those jumps!
Once.
Just another random, killer, easily accessible, 400 ft chunk that never gets climbed.
There is so much f*#king rock in the Catalinas
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Something on the left hand side of The isle of You.
Something somewhere on Lemmon....
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Jun 29, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
|
Birdy closures lift tomorrow
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
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Jun 30, 2012 - 01:19am PT
|
Nothing compares to the Isle of Ewe.
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
|
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Jun 30, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
|
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Jun 30, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Jul 12, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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secret spot
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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morning
noon
night
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bob
climber
|
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Reunion at Granite Mountain.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Man, great thread! Climbed a couple of days there but looks like I missed some.
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bob
climber
|
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Looking forward to visiting this place again!
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KevinK
climber
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Surprised there hasn't been any love for the waterfall!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Great shot of Waterfall Wall!
JJ is THE MAN for his work re-inventing the place with his hard mixed lines.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 16, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Backcountry Catalinas in December
Eric on Psycho Man
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 16, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Look closely...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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The waterfall is nothing short of world class.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Here's one from the vault!
Paul Davidson powering up New Wave (5.12) during an early repeat of this modern Tucson classic! Peter Noebels photo.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Jan 13, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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Arizona is pretty incredible. I just got back from a fun trip checking out the sights. The Superstitions were incredible.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 19, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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The supes are amazing.
When I was a freshman or sophomore in college at NAU in Flagstaff I was in this outdoor adventure class. The teacher knew I climbed and asked if I would help out the guy who was going to teach the rock climbing segment. I said sure and headed out to Elden on one fine Saturday. Turns out the rock climbing teacher was Stan Mish, an awesome guy and a bandito. Anyone ever clip a "No Gud" bolt in the south west?
I helped Stan with the class and he showed me some of the classic boulder problems. I fired "The Egg" first try in my converse high tops (rated B 1 lol!!-- and cut me some slack it was the 80s) and had climbed in the Tetons, a place that Stan had climbed extensively, and Stan took me under his wing a bit and invited me to a Thursday night at Alpine Pizza. Dunno if people still go there but at that time Thursday nights were a major beer drinking throw down for the climber / mountain biking crowd.
So I'm hanging out the table at Alpine, swilling beer (I had a fake Alaska driver's license made by some criminal in my dorm!) with the who's who of Northern AZ climbing. Stan started chiding the crew how the Mushroom had not seen a second ascent. He and John Middendorf had done the first ascent a year or two prior, and it was one of the last if not the last major unclimbed Sedona spires. I hadn't even done the Mace at that point, had never even been to Sedona, and was an unlikely suitor for the second ascent, but the thought of the spire stuck with me. Here is pic:
At that time there was no guidebook, but here is the topo from "A Cheap Way To Die:"
Apparently John and Stan finished and came down from the spire in a massive lightning storm!
to be continued....
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R.B.
Trad climber
47N 122W
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Jan 19, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
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Stan, John, even TnT, I love that Sedona Coconino & Redwall Sandstone ... sporty would be an understatement! -- Just as the Toula Guidebook says "a cheap (or cheaper) way to Die!"
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 19, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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I settled in to college life, got a great college girl friend and continued to climb. I worked through the stuff at Elden, then the Overlook and finally the Forks. Flag was highly traditional at that time--the Pit would come later (or was being developed with me being oblivious)--I don't think I clipped a single bolt prior to being able to lead 5.10. People were still questioning the use of chalk!
Maybe my junior year or so we started to head down to Sedona, taking on the entry level stuff like the Mace, Oak Creek Spire, Dr. Rubo's and Streaker Spire.
Here are shots of Summit Block Rock, my partner from that time Chris and me somewhere in Sedona:
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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By my senior year or so me and girlfriend were drifting apart (she is awesome and we still keep in touch) and I got an internship in Tucson, which led to a forest service job back up in northern AZ. I climbed a ton in Tucson--it was quite eye opening in terms of opportunity and standards--but don't have a single picture from that time.
I migrated back north for my forest service jobs and reconnected with Doug L. We climbed together some while I was in school but really got after it after college. We did Sedona stuff like Earth Angel, Dresdoom, Book of Friends, etc. Later, we also did Mescalito and went on an expedition to Pakistan. I climbed with Doug this summer in Yosemite and probably will do so again next season!
Here is picture from the 5th or 6th pitch of Dresdoom. By then, you could traverse off but if you stay on the arete the runout and scary climbing continues! Dresdoom was a somewhat feared route at that time and had seen some significant falls and some broken bones.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Around the same time I met Hollie V. We climbed a ton together, and she got me more on a grades pushing track. Hollie was (is??) an excellent and motivated climber. We climbed at the Pit, the Forks and also did stuff in Zion, Hueco, Tucson and Yosemite.
Here she is at the forks:
Also around that time, I figured I had the experience and ability to take a crack at the Mushroom.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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I would be remiss not to mention meeting taco poster rick d one evening in the Forks parking lot. Either I or Hollie had dropped a cam one evening- it was about to get dark and I said I would come back for it (the forks is a rap in style place). So I go back a few days later to get the cam and hear these guys screaming at each other--total road trip / partner / have had enough of each other style meltdown. They of course work it out and we start b-sing and having a few swigs from a bottle by our rigs.
One thing leads to another and later that night we are headed for REDACTED to climb REDACTED. Full on epic desert spire climbing ensues. Let's just say I thought I might see a man die... any pictures rick d?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 20, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Too much choss. Flag limestone reprezent.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jan 21, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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The only AZ climbing I have had so far is Sedona, and it scared the sh!t outta me. Still, cool photos and tales.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Dresdoom was a somewhat feared route at that time
Still is - thanks for the retrospective, OTEASTD.
Be cool to see this thread hit 1000!
BRB.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 22, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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D.L. and finally tried to give the Mushroom ago. We hiked in (later realizing we missed a major drainage, thereby inflicting on ourselves a horrific approach even by backcountry AZ standards) and started climbing.
We were doing fine until we got to the 5.8 A2 "scary" section. It was also getting late and so we retreated.
We came back later, got the approach right and made it to the top! We found the summit register--only Mish and Middendorf's names were in it--saying that lightening was blasting all around them- Yikes! We had no lightening but finished rapping the dark.
Doug on the ledge before the last aid pitches
Me at the roof leading to the last pitch and a half or so..
Doug cleaning the last or second to last pitch..
Summit....
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 22, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 22, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 22, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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The Wasteland
Steve
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 22, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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Whale Dome and Moby Dick
Steve
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 22, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Nice contributions there ontheedge!
Summit of the Fortress.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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The Dry, west of Cochise:
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:45am PT
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I had a few trips to 'The Dry' it was a tad loose I recall?
Back in 2002 there was a prominant lump above the road between Sierra Vista and Patagonia that I explored - found a hanging fixed line and some bolts and a very large and active bees nest which discouraged any close attention.
Does anyone know if that was that 'developed'and recorded?
Steve
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:48am PT
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Blakey, it is known as The Mustang.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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The Mustang is/was being developed by, among others, Jim Scott. I met Jim after returning from Pakistan; he had just relocated with his wife to Tucson. He was getting established in Tucson work wise and lots of time to climb. I was a seasonal forest service worker and similarly had time on my hands. We met through the bulletin board at summit hut. Jim is super funny, climbs hard and bold and is very motivated.
Not near a scanner but here is Jim on Forest Lawn:
Neither of us had climbed much around Tucson so it was all new. Jim rope gunned me up all kinds of classics- Cripple Creek, Mean Mistreater, Lizard Marmalade, Valhalla, etc. I found the climbing on Lemmon tricky at first, and the pro is much more fussy than, say, Paradise Forks. After a couple of months of climbing Jim suggested Leviathan Dome.
Here is a picture and description lifted from Mountain Project:
Description:
""This climb is a serious undertaking with some big runnouts in places. Most notably the 4th pitch with 60 feet of unprotected 5.7, the fifth pitch which has a 110 foot traverse with widely spaced pro so the second can enjoy it too, and the 8th pitch where falling could lead to a big swing into a corner.""
I was daunted but agreed to give it a go. The approach was brutal- steep, tons of cactus, full on AZ back country conditions. I was horrified at the light rack Jim arranged (old school!!) and secretly put some extras on my harness. The first pitch was mine, a .10c slab. I'd never really been on a true slab and took a long slider onto an old Leeper- yikes!! Jim took over and sent the pitch.
We swung leads, Jim led the mental crux pitch-- a steep sort of boulder problemish crux--mid 5.10 or so-- with serious consequences in the event of a fall. I reckon the chances of a timely technical rescue in back country AZ at that time (and probably still) were about zero. Jim sussed it out and sent.
We topped out had a pretty epic hike back to the car- full night thrash through the desert, getting cliffed out, etc. You all know the deal. Then off to Z's pizza for food and beer!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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A selection from Warpaint, a route that lives up to it's reputation for quality.....
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Nice job on the Mushroom!
I started up the second-to-last pitch in a light rain, and very quickly dark clouds moved in and the lightning began. Huge booms and blinding flashes crept closer and closer--my rack was buzzing and I could swear the pitons were vibrating like something out of a science fiction movie. I didn't think I could retreat back to the belay very easily, as the pitch had started by traversing over a void to the final headwall and I had no trail rope, so I removed the rack from my shoulders, clipped it into the bottom of my aider, and hung it as far as possible below me, two aider lengths down.
I could swear the rack was crackling and popping sparks. I crouched as low as I could, hanging on a rivet on the steep wall, getting drenched by the rain and buffeted by the wind, and waited for the lightning to pass. What seemed for hours--with lightning hitting the rim several times--finally it mellowed, and we continued. There was no where to go but up at that point.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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While I was living in Sierra Vista a friend came out to visit and do some climbing, mostly in the Western Stronghold.
Pretty much straight off the plane we went up to the Rockfellows - a bird ban was about to come into force and we wanted to do at least one route on the formation. We opted for 'Days'. It was very cold, the first pitch went free avoiding some weaping ice. Cold!
We did a couple of routes on the Sheepshead, at the top of Peacemaker there's a number of options. We took a steep slab to the right on the normal finish. This was Loz's first experience of this type of slab - once he realised he couldn't slip off he giggled his way up!
Dem Bones was one to do...
A few things on the Isle of You
We did a couple of routes on Stronghold Dome, Beeline and Big Time.
The trickiest thing we did though was Serenity Slab, this seemed much harder than the other slabs I did in my time there. Hard and exciting but great fun!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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Holy crap deuce4! I didn't realize you had to hang on the top pitches during all of that! FYI, Jim Scott and I went back and tried to do a free variation. We freed the first aid pitch and at the bottom of the final pitches traversed left and tried to get into a corner that goes to the top- no go. Later DDC (a Tucson local) and I did a new route on the other side where I had my own experience of going out over the same abyss to the point of no return-- I'll post pictures and description some time when I have time to scan.
Blakey- Warpaint and Days of Future Past are great routes. Did you do Cotamundi Corner on the way down from Warpaint? Another good one.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 25, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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^^
No and sadly never got backup there to do it. So much rock, so many routes, never enough time.....
I remember it all with great fondness - a fantastic place to climb - rarely saw anyone else!
Steve
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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Are you back in the UK now? So awesome you got to climb in the stronghold as much as you did. Totally agree about the crowds-- it was almost surprising to see another party in the area and it always has a sort of desert quiet about it. Special place for sure.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 01:06am PT
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Days of Future Past is a Stronghold classic!
I will post a long version of this story with images on the Abracadaver FA thread when I have time.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=329103&msg=1812287#msg1812287
When Dave Baker and I arrived at the base and began dumping out our packs we had a #4 Hexentric and the next smallest piece a #8 and a passle of Bongs!
The next surprise was only three 1/4" Rawl split shafts for a clearly substantially blank tower! And for dessert, one rope!
Dave owned and operated the Summit Hut and had NO excuse.
The End Pinnacle had been climbed via Cap'm Pissgums only once but Dave reasoned that we could leave some gear and get down the descent with one rope.
Dave drilled the bolt to protect the challenging opening traverse with me below making sure his heel toe jams didn't budge.
I lead the traverse with the bolt in and was happy to find lots of good large placements to suit our rack. Dave lead the second pitch and belayed off bongs about thirty feet short of the obvious end of the crack system.
With two bolts left I headed up the third pitch and placed a bolt right at the current belay point and headed left. Three bolts protect the face above as the route is now. I stopped in the second bolt is now and placed my last.
Once I got to the belay ledge I had to wind well around to the left until I was able to find an ear that would hold a couple of bongs. With no small hardware it could easily been a belay from footholds!
We took a good look at the final headwall and escaped right into the Son of Gums chimney.
The next time we came back with Rich Thompson who also worked at the Summit Hut. We reclimbed the first three pitches and added bolts to make a station at the cracks end of pitch 2. I added two more bolts to the now shorter third pitch and placed a two bolt station at our highpoint.
So Rich comes up and then Dave and we take stock of the situation. We need two to three bolts to go directly up as the route goes now. Dave has been tasked with the bolts and starts fishing around in his pockets for them.
No sooner does Dave suggest the escape hatch than Rich with a wry smile pulls a single 1/4" spiral drill bit and Leeper-hangered bolt out of his pocket and carefully but firmly places them into Dave's still-gesturing hand with a solemn "Your lead Dave."
Peer pressure at its finest sent Dave over into the chimney and out onto the gravelly stone above until he finally placed the precious bolt, now the third and last one!
Days of Future Past
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 26, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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^^^
Steve,
On the first rap from the summit you follow the line of a shallow sort of off width runnel, not very deep, which had (I think) a solitary old bolt near the top. It looked neither protectable, or deep enough to wedge into. I assumed it was part of Capt Pissgums?
It looked really nasty and insecure......and way harder than 5.10
Was it Pissgums or something else?
Edit:
So looking at my Kerry guide what we rapped down was way to the left of Pissgums....Any ideas what it was?
Steve
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 26, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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Missing Cochise Stronghold badly.
Thanks for the great pics.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Blakey- The original rap route goes down Son of Gums which is a variation of Cap'm Pissgums which heads left after the crux opening pitch.
An unrepeated tower tour called the Tour du Jour takes in all the summits in the main Rockfellow group and accesses the End Pinnacle with a rappel and clever giant hexentric throw to gain the final summit. Son of Gums is the finishing line once you can get to it.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 26, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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Hmmm,
It looked really scary, my recollection is of a shallow U shaped runnel, quite smooth, about 18 inches deep and not much wider. A lonely old bolt really high up it (the runnel). Not far below a tree. I couldn't for the life of me figure how that was placed.
I see a tree is mentioned in the guidebook description. SO that must have been it. It looked a real horror show! 5.10 Hah! Much respect ;-)
Steve
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Great story, Steve!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
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I like this thread.
Mt Lemmon, mid 80's. Check out all that hair on Mr. Grossman. Question of Balance maybe?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 26, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 26, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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Isolation:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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Off- Seventh Sojourn I think. Right in the same area.
Edge of Delight second choice.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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I should go back to Cocheese.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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One fine spring I was leading Waterslip Down, barely visible in Jefe's picture if you know where to look. I grabbed a biner with three TCUs on it and plugged one in. I gave it a tug and it pulled right out.
I wasn't expecting that and the yanking motion made me whip right off. Making matters worse I dropped the TCUs, which landed in the pond and sank to the bottom.
Here is a picture from above lifted from Mountain Project (i'll remove if anyone cares).
I finished the route and then rapped back down. I could see the TCUs- luckily they had a pink sling. I could also see from the melting snow that the water was about 34 degrees. Nevertheless it had to be done. I stripped down nekid and made the free dive for the cams. Burr!!!111.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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"THERE WAS SHRINKAGE!!!"
good story.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Looks like the weather is going to be good in the Stronghold the first week in March. Keep an eye out for a guy with grey hair and a 20 year old white Sportsmobile.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Feb 15, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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Sooo jealous. :-(
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Feb 15, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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on site at night!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
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Dougald's Right at The Overlook.
The Overlook is hands-down my favorite place to climb with the wife. Tons of moderate trad climbs.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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Beggars Banquet or Table for Two...hmmmmm
I'm hungry!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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"on site at night!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "
+1, I was there
Waterslip Down, one my favorite routes at the forks for some odd reason.
Overlook, always has had a special place in my climbing heart.
Although the last few trips, I've found the old moderates to not be quite so moderate. Guess it's a lot about what you're used to being on.
Some Overlook stuff:
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Some more memory lane tripping
(Credit to Larry Coats, Jim Haisley, Scott Baxter, Paul Davidson for the images. It's not clear who took what. I know some are mine. But most of the older images that look good are due to Larry's tireless editting skills. No faded, dusty images for that lad! The rest of us are too lazy to work that hard.)
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Dugald's Route Right deserves an image of the man:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 20, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Great shots there Davidson.
The kid at Baxter's Banquet looks an awful lot like me, the age and year look about right too.
Unfortunately I was not born into such esteemed climbing bloodlines.
Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Thanks for the history, pk_d!
What? No love for Winslow Wall?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.
Nice nostalgia shots!
Winslow was dreamy back when only a dozen folks knew about. If you saw something, it would be there waiting next visit. LOL
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Feb 24, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Paul, Great shots. Thanks for sharing. Are you climbing in a 1" swami? You are burly!
Dugald was amazing athlete, a thinker of breadth and depth, and a fine heart. He and people of his ilk inspire us to be more.
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Murry , is that you hucking that large pole? Nice! cheers!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Supposed to be upper 70's this weekend.
Gonna go climb and replace some bolts on The Big Sleep.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Saw a REAL nice waterfall ice formation just above the Dairy Queen in Oak Creek Canyon this morning. It looks bad ass!!! Need to find an interested party. It really passed the looks test today....but it IS Arizona and things change. Any info appreciated from all you old crumbs hanging around this thread or anyone interested in checking it out next Wednesday.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Hopefully some folks climb this old, semi-obscure, wandering KR route.
There was old bail tat all over the place.
The oak that provided the belay at the top of pitch one is dead and loose.
We added one bolt(pictured) at that ledge.
The belay at the top of the second pitch is in an exposed alcove with marginal gear and a missing pin. We added a bolt.
The third pitch starts with an exposed traverse with crap gear(another reason that belay should be safe), and continues to a spinning 1/4 in buttonhead. This was replaced.
It should be noted that my partner was friends, and climbed this route, with KR before his untimely death.
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bob
climber
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RAD Jefe. Nice one.
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Pete Hill
Social climber
cal
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Back in the 80's. Which is far enough back that I don't remember the exact year. A strange piece of metal got plugged into the top of Pinnacle Peak's main summit. At the time there were a bunch of bolts and chains. Plenty of anchors for getting seconds up and rapping back off.
The hunk of metal was marked, as I remember, "Omni directional belay and repel device". This was a pie plate of metal 6 or 8 inches in diameter with holes drilled all the way around the rim, welded to a 1" steel rod that had been drilled into the summit rock.
A friend and I thought this was just an outrage. If outrage can be capitalize, I supposed this was a small o outrage. We decided that this just had to go. So early one morning I went over to my friends house with an expedition pack and we loaded up two gas tanks and all the stuff that a cutting torch requires. As I remember the tanks were big enough that the regulators stuck out the top of the pack and heavy enough to buckle my knees.
As we climbed the pitches up to the top of the peak I distinctly remember a a silence around the vulnerability of the regulators poking out of the top of the pack. As I was the one carrying the pack I was acutely aware, OK later I became acutely aware, that there was no conversation around the fact that a good bump to the top of the pack could have sent me on a rocket ride to the bottom of the peak. Such is the beauty of youth that the important details you only find out later.
It didn't take long to cut off the offending, though probably very convinient repel anchor off the top of the peak.
For year after the "Omni directional repel device" with a bunch of angle pitons was part of the door bell in a local Phx climbing shop. Till the day the shop closed no one ever raise a complaint about the anchor being torched off of the summit of Pinnacle Peak.
The sins of youth.
Pete
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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A world class crag is quickly developing in Arizona as The Waterfall continues to get 5-star new cracks and bolted aretes put up. That place is absolutely amazing and keeps getting better. It's like the forks on steriods. Lots of 30 or 35 meter pitches, hard climbing, and great friction. It also has it's share of bold leads. What will one day be the hardest trad climb in Arizona is there, someone just needs to get it done.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Ah Steve, one can never fool you!
Jungle Gym Pablo and likely my ass too.
Except, that was Haisley. Not sure how we talked him onto that route!
E - I'll have to find some Winslow pics. I don't think they were scanned yet.
Speaking of Haisley and Duggie, from Jim's wedding.
The lovely Jane Bremner (at the time)
Only time I've seen Scotty in a suit!
And Jimmy hisself:
Frank's Wall:
2nd ascent of Mooses Butte:
FA of Pegasus:
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Too much good stuff:
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Paradise Lost, from the day of the FA:
Reloading....
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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From the FA (Davidson/Fleming) of Magical Mystery Tour at the Overlook.
I think this might have been Flag's first 5.11
(at least on the lead)
This was the last climb John and I did together at the end of a climbing trip circa summer 77 or 78.
ohn then moved off to Albuquerque, where we climbed together a fair bit
for a few years before he left for the Seattle area.
He returned to Flag for one awesome day when we did the Overlook Gridle.
I'll post something downstream.
Phil Gleason's Right Elephant at Elden had been TR'd much earlier and it's at least 5.11.
When led as Red Asphalt in '77, it comes very close to being 5.12, if not 5.12
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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The Grand Master of Flag
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Second or third ascent of Tralfamador at the CWM
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Thanks everyone for getting this to 1000!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Definitely!
All these great pics and stories...proud to be a native Zoner.
Thanks for starting the thread MisterE.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Heading to Cochise with John Bragg in April.....beautiful place with great stone!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mar 11, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Well Jim, if you do run rotating laps on Abra and Kneed Me, say what ? 5 trips up it, you'll be all set for the Nose adventure ?
Probably more fun climbing the sunlit slabs on the west side though :-)
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Mar 22, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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Another great Burcham route. This one is on Beer Bottle Spire in Sedona.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 22, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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John Bragg and i will be in the West Stronghold 4/11 to 4/15.....hope to see some of you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 23, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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TralfamaBump...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Mar 23, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Courtney Phillips somewhere up on the Reef on Mt Lemmon (I think!)
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Mar 23, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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Got out to the Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon for the first time the other day. Pretty awesome climbing but pretty terrifying sitting at the base and listening to small to medium size rocks crashing down every so often. Here is my buddy Danny on the classic looking Black and Tan
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 23, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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a fun route.
nothing but quickdraws.
Left of El Cautivo.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 23, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Best single pitch climbing in AZ. IMHO is the Waterfall Area in Sedona.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mar 23, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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Love that Black & Tan climb. And that's the warm-up. I got on the sword and geez/// Waterfall is awesome! Tried to get there last weekend, but it had been raining so much a few days prior the river was too treacherous to cross. It was beautiful, I had never seen the waterfall raging at full force (or at all) until this day. Yes, scary rockfall-that choss band around the top it is interesting, to say the least. AZ climbing is so much fun. Gonna miss it a lot if I end up moving back to CO.
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deschamps
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 25, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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When the river is flowing too fast to cross walk upstream for 5 minutes and you will find a bridge.
3 new routes at the waterfall in the past 2 days by a local Gnarbarian - 2 5.12c cracks and one 5.12c mixed line.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
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Mar 26, 2013 - 10:41am PT
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Is that one of the photos Eric took this weekend, Jefe?
It's incredible.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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The Wasteland
I can't believe I'd never done this route before.
It's a six pitch voyage that wanders up faces, a chimney, and under roofs with tons of glory climbing on classic Stronghold chickenheads. There is no fixed pro on the whole route, with belays at ledges or hanging off plates.
The old Backcountry guide calls it the best 5.8 in the state. I don't know about that, but it sure was fun.
I climbed with my buddy, who I mentored in climbing, and we swapped pitches. I was super proud of him as he'd never done anything like this before.
Another friend wanted a day out with the dogs and to fiddle around with some nice powerful lenses. He got some cool photos.
The silhouette photo above was pure luck, taken from the trailhead, a 40 minute hike away.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 27, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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This was an amazing pitch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Beige plate special...LOL
All you can eat!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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Hmmmm, The Wasteland, that was my first route in the Stronghold.
Steve
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Blessed with a never ending supply of untouched stone and cursed with a full time job.
Found a few single pitch towers I was unaware of near Dry Creek last weekend.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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On the descent, with the beautiful Out of Towners Dome.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Apr 15, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Apr 20, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Walked out to Leviathan Dome. It is a long walk but worth the time.
This was our view on the way out. Lot of rock and just a short walk away. Next winter maybe...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Nice shot of the The Prow! Paul's best lead at the Forks, IMO.
The regular North Face route on Leviathan is probably the best long back country route around Tucson. You gotta do it and having the approach wired is good when you are trying to go car to car in a day.
When I did it with Paul Davidson we started our predawn adventure with a rear wheel on his family Powerwagon in a ditch trying to turn around.
We thought we were hosed but miraculously a rancher with a big ole dual axle truck came by in a matter of minutes and easily plucked us out to carry on our approach still in the darkness!
With such help we got back to the car at dark after a long and wonderful day. No camera on that one unfortunately but I would love to go and do it again.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Apr 23, 2013 - 10:17am PT
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Practice Wall, Mt. Lemmon
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Leggs
Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
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Apr 23, 2013 - 10:25am PT
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Leviathan Dome is a long walk from the car in warm weather. But the rock in the shade is perfect. After three hours, Jesse Morales and I had a blast on the NE face.
We made it up two more new pitches. I think. We may be close to User Friendly. Recognize anything?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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May 21, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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When I did it with Paul Davidson we started our predawn adventure with a rear wheel on his family Powerwagon in a ditch trying to turn around.
Wow, I have no recollection of that at all. Well... now it's a fuzy memory pbbly only made real by your telling of it. Like watching old home movies and they become a part of your life memories :-)
Now I remember, thinking we were F'D UP for the day with that move.
I also remember getting way off route and strung out and then the hike out, once down in the scrub, taking FOR EVER.
BITD we parked out just off Oracle didn't we ? No nice state park to save a cpl of miles of hiking.
BTW - this thread needs more Waterfall pics...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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May 21, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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When I walked into Leviathan with CourtNey, we came across some worrying tracks.....
We did Table for Two and Wily Javelina before heading out in the daylight!
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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May 23, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Beautiful hard quartzite abounds in Sierra Ancha. But there is a lot of choss to wade through at times.
This is a fun but small area. There is a lot of rock here.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Guessing game time....
Chatted with an old time Az hard man the other day, he sent me a few pics.
Hopefully I'm not outta line posting them.
Name these dudes, extra points for the location.
(Hint, there are some bad ass Az climbers out there that many know nada about)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Zoroaster?
Karl karlstrom?
Um, yah.....?
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jabbas
Trad climber
New River, AZ
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Man --- that guy in tattered clothes looks like Brian Sarni.
Er tattered knickers!!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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I miss my friends bump.
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Deekaid
climber
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Jul 20, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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Where would you guys go to climb right now if you were stuck in Arizona? Is Mt. Lemmon being deluged now? The weather reports seem to say yes but I would like to get intel from someone on the ground so to speak.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I'm stuck in Arizona too. I like going north to Winslow. Beautiful canyon with water. Watch the lightning wherever you go.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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winslow bump.
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Deekaid
climber
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Jul 20, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Never been... looks like a possibility. Thanks.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jul 20, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon (the Cwm), West Elden, Oak Creek Overlook. It's all good for summer days.
OK, Paul, who are those guys and where are they? Yeah, some really talented and stout climbers have come out of Arizona and I'd put you in the rarified air of the first string.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Aug 19, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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What's up supertopo people, Arizona appreciators!
It's been a while!
Shock Collar 5.11
My favorite FA of the summer.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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No trees were hurt during the first ascent.
State wide, we're rockin, people.
Primo temps out there get to the choppa!!!!!!!!!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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jefe, tell us more about your summer project gem!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Your timing is perfect, Jef.
Isn't there a great line you've got your eye on 'round the corner from Shock Collar, with trees in the way?
Seems like your head is on right with thoughts of working around the trees, not against them.
~get to the choppa
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
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100 ft, no cleaning necessary, a couple 5.10 cruxes with a boulder problem finish.
It would be super popular if it didn't involve a hike.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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The climbing is worth the hike.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Oct 21, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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Wow! Drljefe that line looks amazing! Where is that? If you don't want to say where it is, that is totally cool.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Bump. Someone must have a recent, glorious shot?...................
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Nov 12, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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New 5.6*** on a dome way above Westworld Dome. Sorry, no climbing action.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Nov 12, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Not so recent, but did a river trip down the Grand in Sept.
Fully appreciated all of it. Some good DWS. Stared at rock walls for 250+ miles.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 12, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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One of the best 5.6's in the world???
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Nov 12, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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10th ascent of Jacobs Ladder? Either way, 1st ascent variation to the w/sw face.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
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Nov 15, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Arizona BUMP!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Timely bump, this is the time of year to really appreciate Arizona......the climbing, that is.
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deschamps
Gym climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Nov 15, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Hardest trad route in AZ went down last month!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
|
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Nov 15, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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So what was it? I thought those seldom if ever repeated mid-5.13 lines at Paradise Forks were the hardest-- I'd be interested to hear the details.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Yeah deschamps, quit teasing....that's my bag.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
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Nov 15, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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Fun limestone bouldering at Priest Draw.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Nov 15, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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Thanks! Not surprised it's at the Waterfall, the "easy" routes there are hard 5.10!
edit: I also rechecked the Forks, it looks like the hardest there is the Equalizer at ".13-", with several others checking in at mid 5.12.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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LOVE the Waterfall, the climbs i can do that is.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 16, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Hard to love the ones that get away...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 22, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Has the bridge across forever ever been repeated? Often?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Very rarely I believe Jay
I have heard just rumors of one maybe two ascents and that was from years back. Seems like I heard of a second by a travelling climber a few years after Waugh's feet (sic).
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Good on the coldest sunny days.
Watch out for very aggressive Africanized bees.
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MisterE
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2013 - 02:49am PT
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Homestead?
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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drljefe,
Is that lump off the road between Sierra Vista and Patagonia?
Steve
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Bad Climber
climber
|
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Yeah, El Jefe! Where the heck is that sweet lump, and how do we find out about routes?
BAd
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Bad Climber
climber
|
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Thanks, Steelmonkey, that place looks cool!
BAd
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bob
climber
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^^^^^^ Oski?? ^^^^^^^^^^
Edit: NO
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Yep Blakey, due east of Sonoita.
It's called the Mustang.
All the info is on mtnproj.
And I'm serious about the bees.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What's that, adventure, Gal?
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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drljefe,
I thought so, I lived in Sierra Vista for a couple of years, and hiked up there back in 2003. Back then there was a bleached fixed line, on the LHS, and a huge honeycomb over on the RHS, some bolts, but lots of bees!
I didn't bother with it after that......
Have any of the other Limestone crags in the Huachucas been developed?
Steve
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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That was a 5 pitch climb in Sedona called 2legit2quit. Very fun adventure.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Dec 17, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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That climb looks really good.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
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Did 2legit2quit just before Xmass....very good but not great, certainly worth doing. When approaching go up the canyon until you cannot proceed any more before you go up left. We started up left too soon....heinous.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
|
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Jan 21, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
|
Queen Victoria.
Probably the easiest spire in Sedona.
Super enjoyable.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Jan 21, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
|
Any estimates about weather at Cochise Stronghold in late March?
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Leggs
Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 21, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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^^^ it will be perfect.
Weatherman Leggs
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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Jan 21, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
|
In late March the avg. temp range in Tombstone is 71/43.....5 degrees colder in the Stronghold, good to go.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
|
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Weather has been warm here. Jack Tackle visited and climbed in Hackberry Canyon this fine January.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
|
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Feb 12, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
|
Last time I saw Larry he was a police officer. We (DDC and I) bungee jumped out of a hot air balloon in the dirt lot at limberlost and first (now LA Fitness). He had just soloed SE Arete on Babo for his 40th b day.
.........that was 1992/3
Peter D. can't find him?
I'll ask mayhew. working sat but may see you guys after 8pm.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Feb 12, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
|
Peter didn't have any current contact info for Larry so I would certainly appreciate the help.
Cheers!
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pyrosis
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
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Feb 12, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
|
Missing Flagtown...
Bad Ass
Stinky Ass
Tin Ho!
Super Roof
Dope Lounge
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Feb 26, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
|
where oh where is that drljefe? Should I know this? Looks cool.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 26, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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bump for climbing vs Uganda
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takeme
Trad climber
tucson, az
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Feb 27, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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Been lurking on and loving this thread for a while...some photos from favorite backcountry areas in Southern AZ.
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Feb 27, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Willcox playa in the background.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Feb 27, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Great photos, everyone.
Received this recently...
Appreciating The Dog Park ~ Mt. Lemmon
~peace
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Feb 27, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
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Yes Leggs, that's a good spot - did you give "cats and dogs" a try? Pretty fun, the first pitch is a bit of a doozy though-and I guess the second pitch is no walk in the "park"/unless you're a huge offwidth fan ;-)
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Feb 28, 2014 - 01:07am PT
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It's a fantastic spot, Catherine... so glad you got to be a part of it... a hidden gem!
Rad ass photo... love it!
~peace
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 01:12am PT
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How does one get current raptor closure information for Cochise Stronghold?
I don't want to debate, but if there are nests, *I personally* am happy to give the cliff a pass.
Thanks,
Darwin
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I'm trying not to dilute Steve's AWESOME Cochise thread, JUST GO; but about the ^^^ above question?
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MisterE
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 10:27pm PT
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Looking down the two day descent of Secret Canyon:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Yo Darwin
Bird closures started March 1st.
This is for the Rockefellow Group and Cochise (WML) Dome only.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Had fun climbing with Gray Thompson and Jack Tackle in Isolation Canyon.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Splendid company you have there, Manny!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Gray Thompson? As in North Face of Columbia Gray Thompson? That's pretty cool...
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MisterE
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2014 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice outing Manny! As others have said - good company, yourself included.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Pretty much every climber in Arizona has like ten of these exact photos.
It just doesn't get old.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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This is such an awesome thread. Really looking forwards to climbing in AZ someday. Some sunny winters day :-)
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:43am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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A nice day at Stronghold Dome.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 26, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
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I sure don't miss that choss!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:13pm PT
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MisterE
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
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Thanks for keepin' the fire stoked, all.
I sure don't miss that choss!
Read: "I miss the hell out of that place."
;)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
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We've got it all here folks.
You want limestone caves basalt splitters backcountry granite domes gneiss cliffs rhyolite boulders dacite cliffs sandstone towers.
Are you lonely?
Go to the bolted crags close to the car.
Otherwise it's just you and your dog your partners javelinas scorpions coatimundis mountain lion peregrines big horns coyote rattlesnakes raccoons deer elk bobcat tarantulas bear centipedes.
Oh, it's hot?
My project's at 8500 feet.
What are you waiting for?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 27, 2014 - 12:03am PT
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You'll appreciate this one, Jefe.
Collin, Helen, Doc and I were standing in one of the camps above Isle of Ewe looking over at this formation and talking about. Collin asks, "Have you done it?" To which I respond, "yes, and it's f*#king terrifying!". They just nodded in agreement.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 27, 2014 - 12:33am PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 27, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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Is it just me or has almost every pic I've seen of "the draw" is of a hot babe crushing some sick ass looking line?!?!?
F*#king awesome stuff! The diversity melts my ability to think stuff good hard it's when pics are so bolts in Arizona. Ya. Good,,,,,
Dogs.!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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You want the truth about Arizona climbing???
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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What is the longest stretch of Aligator Skin at the strong hold? That place and many others look awesome. When are they gonna find the secret treasure trove of ice down there?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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A nice day at Stronghold Dome.
Great photo, Jef. Is that from last Sunday with Scott and Tonya?
(Helen looks ripped, as always. Love it)
Doug, Bruce..... nice shots.
~peace
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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You're right Jefe......
I can't handle the truth.
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flipper
climber
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May 11, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
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Rheen's Arete
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 11, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Where is Gertrude?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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It's Reen's Rete as opposed to Irene's Arete in the Tetons .
Irene corrected me herself on point of fact here not long ago. She told the story of Rich Thompson sending her up to lead the second pitch on principle. "You don't get credit on the first ascent unless you lead something."
I did this one at the Granitica Festival again and Rich Thompson was feeling it that day, toetiping around in blue Royal Robbins boots!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 16, 2014 - 02:54am PT
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jun 13, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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Nice pics Jefe...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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It's definitely too hot to climb anywhere in Arizona during the summer.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Took me a second to dial in on that last one... Granite Mountain below the Flying Buttress. Very nice.
Re-opens in 6 days!! Yea!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 28, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
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Bump for a great thread.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:54am PT
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Zany zonie love bump!
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:02am PT
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btt
dubai biatches
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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climbing thread bump in anticipation of all the poli threads yet to come after the elections
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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JIm Waugh on Twilight Zone (5.10C/D) at West Elden in Flagstaff in 1979.
Images are reversed and I can't figure out how to fix them. Paging Peter Haan...
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Great pictures, Mark! I have looked at that climb so many times - so intimidating.
OK, I pulled up some shots from the rounds doing the Sedona guide:
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Yeah, West Elden is such a great crag, especially when the summer wildflowers are out. That route's a great one; it does overhang a good bit. Here's a pic of me doing Twilight Zone in '78.
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
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Twilight Zone was one of my favs. in the early '80's. West Elden is the shred!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Twilight Zone was 5.11 when I first did it on a rack of nuggets. Ed Webster had bagged the FFA with one fall and Scott Baxter sent me up to do the first clean ascent not long after that. I remember a long throw to a flared hand jam at the crux to get past the steepest section above the handrail into space that leads you into the Twilight Zone.
No camera around the day that I did that one but your shots of Waugh look properly oriented and are sweet Mark! Do not adjust your set.
Gotta do Megadeath too while you are there...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Lookin' good, Steve!
Megadeath is "old school" 5.9 (translation: some suffering will likely be part of the experience).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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There's one from the vault!
Count on Larry to have a camera. I forgot that one.
Big Ole Teeton on my hip just in case it got wider than a #11 Hex up high.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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Great shot of Steve!
A couple of tower shots from Brins Mesa Trail area:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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Bump
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 20, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Sven slab looked really cool from behind a coded electric gate with no parking signs everywhere. The scrambling on some nearby boulders was really cool and the scenery was jaw droppingly amazing. I'm really excited to come back on a few years with better beta.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 30, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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no offense but the pictures are much more useful with location captions.
beautiful though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 30, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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The climb just shown is called Thunderhead Spire and it is one of many at Windy Point along the Mt. Lemmon highway. Rich Thompson was really excited about doing this one to get a photo of the free rappel and once we topped out he began drilling out at the lip of the summit block.
I wasn't too keen on the proposed anchor location but Rich wasn't changing his mind so I started considering my options. I could downclimb the reasonably solid 5.7 pitch that we had just done or...I could just jump off!
A reasonable landing spot across the gap presented itself so while Rich was busy drilling I quietly untied and measured the leap of faith and took it! The jangle of gear on my landing startled Rich but he immediately started laughing and giving me crap for being too chicken to face the short but airy rappel.
It all worked out well because I got the shot of Rich in the air and everyone was happy. We were doing a lot of Superfly jumping right at that time in Tucson and I came back several more times to solo the original route and new one in the gap which has since sprouted bolts I hear. I will see if I can find the money shot.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Yeah bob.
Steve- I contemplated that jump....
That's me and your friend Mrs. Ghost on Thunderhead Spire.
It's an awesome little guy that would get climbed every day if it were in the parking lot like Hitchcock. I'm glad it's not.
I didn't remember that zone at all- hadn't been there since my earliest climbing days.
That's why I wanted to go back, for some easy stars.
We had done Rabbit Tracks and Jambrosia and I was like "Mari, we ain't leavin' without doing that lil spire!" I was happy to lead and enjoyed it but my height challenged partner and her friend found it difficult.
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giegs
climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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An amusing sidelight to that shot of Ray is that someone directly ripped it off for a pack advertisement and put a different head on it. I am not sure if they ever contacted Peter Noebels but it was blatant.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I never knew that, weak!
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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saw this 1983 photo posted by Crunch a few pages back of the Right Trinity Crack at the Oak Creek Canyon Overlook
thought it looked familiar and so I dug around some and found this:
a few feet higher, but the same stem-and-jam affair. Funny but I think the year was also 1983 as I'm still wearing EBs
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Free soloed that one once. My hands fit nicely unlike Trinity Center and Left.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Hands don't firt AT all in that thing. Horrendous size for me.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Weird. Always seemed like the right trinity was the hardest. Gives me the heebee jeebees thinkin' about soloing it. Isaiah was more my speed.
Fun to see a picture of Ray! Good guy; used to climb with him a fair bit.
Anybody remember the spring Yosemite trip ('78?) when the Arizona contingent all got cheap, tacky aloha shirts from goodwill and wore them in the Valley?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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IThink I've soloed it too....
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KevinK
climber
Flagstaff
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Snowy morning in Flagstaff (2-4" last night). Winslow Wall bump
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overwatch
climber
|
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Winslow wall looks great, got to get there this year.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Checking that place out back when only a handful of routes had been climbed was pretty dreamy although the flash flood debris twenty feet up was rather sobering...
Watch the weather closely when you go there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 14, 2015 - 11:41am PT
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If you are fond of gneiss climbing it is hard to beat Windy Point for hidden character.
So many distinct crags and towers to explore and revisit.
Are the anchors still out on the lip on Thunderhead Spire?
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KevinK
climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 14, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
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This is actually a screen grab but really shows well the starting dyno to a sloper/fingerlock on Twist of Fate in the Ultimates
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
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Oct 25, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Well, I am now living in AZ, would love details of any climbers or climbing areas near Kingman. Any and all info welcome.
Eman
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 28, 2015 - 06:56pm PT
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Come-n-geddit
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Paul Davidson and Steve Grossman are two of the stoutest leaders I've ever seen.
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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This thread ROCKS!!!! Cant wait to touch the rock in AZ this year. Always went mtbing there(Lots!) but never climbed. Looks oh so gud.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Tried to get down to Cochise this last winter, but cold, stormy weather shut us down. We'll try again this year. AZ is fantastic.
BAd
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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BigB, Don't miss Paradise Forks and Granite Mountain!
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KevinK
climber
Flagstaff
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Jun 26, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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Adrian bad news, all those shots are in Utah!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
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Yup, but the Bandito hanger rose from the ashes...
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Jul 13, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
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You got me on that one! Is it ok to post in this thread if you can see AZ in one of the pics?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 10:05pm PT
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Phoenix Bro...
Home of the Banditos!
I just added a bit to Paul's post on MP about Lucky Goes to the Creamery.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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Yup, Jim was a very good man and an asset to the Tucson climbing community that left us much too soon. There was a memorial service for him a short while ago.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Aug 26, 2016 - 09:01am PT
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Oh my gosh no. I climbed extensively with Jim for several years but lost touch after I left AZ.
Such a fun partner and great guy...so full of life it's hard to believe.
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Nov 19, 2016 - 06:36pm PT
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And bump.
Hey all, I'm stopping by Tucson for a few days in early December and am hoping to get out and climb. If any of you fine folks are out for a boulder session or cragging some place and wouldn't mind some company, I'd be very happy to join you. I'd be happy to show you around Squamish when you make your way up north.
I will have a rental car and likely be climbing on Tuesday, Dec. 6th, and Wednesday, the 7th.
Also, any suggestions would be much appreciated for a nice intro circuit to Mt. Lemmon bouldering.
Thanks all!
ali
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
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For those of you that like Zappa, Dweezil and company are playing the Rialto Theater in Tucson on Friday May 5 and the Orpheum in Flagstaff on Friday August 11. Check it out because It Can Happen Here! Who would imagine?!?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tucson area folks don't miss Jim Donini's Latok show at the Summit Hut on November 15. If you are interested in the deeper game of climbing then you have to come and check this out. Great show and a chance to meet Maestro Donini and get a hit of him.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
|
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Mar 29, 2018 - 09:51pm PT
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the mountain by the Mexico border
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2018 - 01:59pm PT
|
The definitive Toofast Topos II guidebook to the Cochise Stronghold will be available in a matter of days. Well done Geir!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3131396/Toofast-Topos-2-Cochise-Stronghold-Rock-Climbing
Geir and the rest of the new generation of Tucson Tigers have repeated all of the old testpieces and replaced their fixed anchors so that interested climbers can focus on the spicy and not worry about the dicey, bolts that is. These proud routes saw little action for a couple of decades but are being done regularly now by folks that appreciate full value adventure climbing just like we did. The descriptions in Geir's guidebook accurately reflect these ascents and carry forward the traditional approach that made this amazing area stand out.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Nov 24, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
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Steve:
Ya gotta love it when the new school fully integrates the fundamental integrity of the OG visionaries!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 25, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
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A little bit of respect goes a long way among adventure climbers so, yes, I love the new crew and what they are all about. Through Geir I have been able to meet most of the Tucson Tigers and stay connected with what is going on in AZ. Many of my routes have only a handful of bolts so every party that does them gets to experience the climbing much as we did on the FA. So many bolts have shown up that the quality of the climbing experience on some of these routes has diminished quite a bit which is sad. Far too many unnecessary bolts in the Stronghold these days and even older climbers visiting there for the first time say so.
We weren't necessarily visionaries BITD, more like adherents to a style of climbing that demanded the best from our own efforts, expecting the same from those that came after us.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
|
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May 22, 2019 - 01:26pm PT
|
Thought I'd bump this thread one last time. One of my favorites!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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May 30, 2019 - 07:59pm PT
|
Gona miss this one even though I haven’t seen it in years. This is so stupid they are throwing all this away. Burning their own legacy that we all built freely and willingly for over a decade in my case. The test doesn’t mean much without the pics. I jokingly said I posted others photos and would continue but 99% were mine and I loved sharing rather than just having all this sit on my hard drive. Oh well!!
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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May 30, 2019 - 08:46pm PT
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As with all good runs, things eventually pass out of some realm we once deemed important. New things become more so.
Moving on with grace is the best we can do.
Maybe it will be remembered, maybe it won't - the singular effort of the share at the moment, the surge of memories and stoke - it matters.
All things pass.
MisterE
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