Except for the Beardsley boulders, and the Bolus, and that new route I never finished at So mtn, Az bites.
well maybe The forks, and supes, (Esp greater Zonerland/land of Nod),and the mine area, Jaccuzi spire, Pinnacle peak (esp deliverance) And the forks and the Draw, and other parts of the Mcdowells where they still allow climbing, and various hush-hush areas along the Mogollon Rim, and Jacks, and the pit, Canyon Diablo, Walnut canyon, the Granite Dells, Granite Mountain, Mt Lemon, the Stronghold, Sedona, the overlook, the winslow wall, that stuff by stafford(?), all kinds of weird sh!t in the Desert, the Grand Canyon, the rez, and a bunch of places I have forgoten, really, what is there?
I recall driving to JT and thinking "why?"
I recall driving to Yosemite and thinking "why....live in AZ?"
I still love AZ and its diverse climbing. It was a great place to get a toehold on climbing; we came to Tahquitz and everything seemed soft. We saw El Cap for the first time and ran the F away in horror.
Granite Mountain is a world class area, with wonderful rock, awesome cracks and gorgeous natural lines up to around 450 feet. Only open between July 15th and Feb. 1st each year because of falcon nesting bans. It was even named one of the top ten crags in the US in an issue of Mountain Magazine (1985?).
The Superstitions are world class desert beautiful, with roaring silence, questionable rock (most places), 30+ year old bolts, and adventure climbing up to five pitches or so. Open year round. Bolting absolutely prohibited.
Not pimping either place too hard as I love climbing in either for somewhat different reasons. I'd give you the tour of either place. Come on down!
J-brah: I have a much closer shot of that offwidth, although drawing the line at actually having been in it yet.
Dave Baker and I at the base of Cripple Creek on the Pharaoh, early seventies.
Sparsely protected bridging on the FA of Devoid which starts from the north end of the Inner Passage and summits on Chay Desa Tsay. This wild route comes out of the notch shown below on the left and climbs the steep headwall to finish.
Photo from Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona, 1991.
..must turn away,
draw me back in...
left forever (more or less) in '92.
But I've only been to isolation once,
and it was a new century,
It wouldn't hurt just to go back,
Jaybro flash bump - 10 feet away from finding out how friggin' hard and weird Matricide is (filed away under teh "skeletons in the closet" folder.)
Mark on the Tombstone @ Cochise. Can't remember the name.
Arete on the Tombstone. Stiletto Arete I think? Goes up the right skyline of the previous picture.
Ram V. 5 feet of the ground at Middle Earth (Lemmon). Good lines here, though the rock always felt like it was seeping water. Waited out a monster T-Storm underneath The Breeze one day, then hiked out at warp speed over the lightning-rod ridge (2 people ended up drowning in Sabino Canyon during that storm.)
Pusch Peak. A good route by Jeff Mayhew on the thumb in the middle. Lot of untouched choss in the background.
Best for last - Mendoza Canyon. Meg on pitch 2, realizing that Elephantiasis is as serious as we thought it would be. Outstanding route, probably the best thing I climbed in my 2 years in Tucson. Runners-up would be Brian Benedon's routes in Pima Canyon and Table Mtn.
I had the good fortune to live in Sierra Vista for 18 months and the Stronghold was my local area, ony 45 minutes to the Sheepshead parkig lot - Happy days. Once I figure how to upload photos, then I'll do so...........
O.K. this is like a mini trip report from the last two days. Yesterday, I met up with Elma who was looking for a climbing partner on TOS. She is from Switzerland and was visiting family in Phoenix. I suggested we meet in Sedona.
Our first objective 'Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride' a classic Sedona moderate
Always a bit of yucca on a good Sedona climb.
Elma was a great sport and would put up with me pestering her to smile for the camera.
so today we climbed another great Sedona climb 'Mars Attacks!'
The first pitch is cool friction
I stoked Elma up for leading the 2nd pitch traverse. A really great pitch!
3rd pitch of "luca and the fishes" 5.9x A.2+, east face babo first ascent fall 1989 (so this is post glass legs) yours leading, waugh at the 4 hour belay (only 66' off deck). You can see how weird the rock type is- I always compared it to french bread. A hook here, a head there, a pin there, couple hooks, a bashie in an eye socket...not straight forward at all.
Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Please don't dominate the rap, jack, if youve got nothing new to say.
If you please, don't back up the track this trains got to run today.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
I heard someone say better run away, others say better stand still.
Now I don't know, but I been told its hard to run with the weight of gold,
Other hand I have heard it said, its just as hard with the weight of lead.
Who can deny, who can deny, its not just a change in style?
One step down and another begun and I wonder how many miles.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
Things went down we dont understand, but I think in time we will.
Now, I don't know but I was told in the heat of the sun a man died of cold.
Keep on coming or stand and wait, with the sun so dark and the hour so late.
You can't overlook the lack, jack, of any other highway to ride.
Its got no signs or dividing lines and very few rule to guide.
I saw things getting out of hand, I guess they always will.
Now I don't know but I been told
If the horse dont pull you got to carry the load.
I don't know whose backs that strong, maybe find out before too long.
One way or another, one way or another,
One way or another, this darkness got to give.
"From every street and corner in Tucson we see the mountains...But of all the peaks and ranges that keep their sentinel posts around the Old Pueblo there are none so bold in the outlines of their granite heights and rugged canyons, so exquisitely beautiful in their soft colors of red and blue and purple, or so luring in the call of their remote and hidden fastness, as the Santa Catalinas." Harold Bell Wright, 1923
Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
No preplacement - how would you do so on that arch, anyhow.
Right after Coatamundi Whiteout, I looked at Jump Back Jack Crack (looked stout) but we went for the new route instead - Gunsmoke.
Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.
Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.
We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker.
Wonder how folks do that thing these days with good shoes and a rack full of cams. Maybe it's only 5.11 after all.
Wish I could have stayed longer and bagged some other plumbs, but we only had the weekend. I thought Coat. Whit. was a fine route and the crag was a gem.
I always thought that Arizona had some of the greatest climbing and summits in America. I've always been jealous of the guys who first bagged all those desert spires and also of Todd Gordon who lived out there and climbed all that cool obscure stuff.
Largo, I had five #4 Camalots (5 years ago) and a smaller friend. I believe it was a #4. Just went out across and got pumped. Was doing quite well until the last Camalot proved to have a trigger wire that wanted to break right then and there. I managed to stuff a foot and part of a leg up there, got the damn thing in and gunned it, but surely not like you gunned it. My buddy Jake followed and pulled it off frozen stiff. Hilarious. I thought that just once I might have the chance to see him fall on something I led clean. Nope. Not then, not ever. I'm so bad.
Thanks for the story!
Steve Byrne said that Gunsmoke would be 11+ if you ran out the last 35'- he made the first onsight of the route in the mid 1980's- of course he had his own Wired Bliss #5's to protect it.
as for the coati roof, you beat Jim Waugh by only a few weeks- he was very sad about your visit. Thing is, Reveley and Greene were up at the roof their last day on '76 but got too cold in T-shirts and shorts and bailed off then walked out. They certainly were strong enough to do the roof...
Yup it was Jake Whittaker and I. (Jensen) To add a bit to this adventure, he arrived at the belay frozen, but with mission in mind he set off on Once Upon a Time's 12a corner. He onsighted it through two (yes 2!) mini snow/ice storms, complete with incsane wind. I'm pretty sure he was on lead for at least 1/2 an hour. So, he became too cold to keep heading up the route and I reached the point of not being able to hold on to a belay device because I was literally frozen. I felt so good after Gunsmoke then all the cold set into my sweaty clothes. OH MAN I have never been that cold at Granite Mountain and I've spent a LOT of time up there cold.
Such great memories.
Bob J. on morning coffee.
On the Coatamundi Traverse, only 5.10b but at the time there were only tied-off pins to protect the crux bit off the belay. Don't ping . . .
Anyhow, TODD, where are all those shots of climbing those super slender desert needles? Like Cleopatras and others. Man, those spires look like the shizat. And how about climbing those big arches in Arches Nat. Park. Like Rainbow and Landscape (what a trip walking across that one!) and others.
Stiff 10b traverse Mr. Long. Is it like in Jtree where the boulder problem start doesn't show in the rating? Those pins got swiped out and now sports two GIANT bolts. RIght there at the start of the traverse. The head aspect of that climb is lost. Still a hell of a climb. My buddy and I did Sorcerer to that traverse and I fell just at the lip. Damn!!!!!! Such good stuff. Memorieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees.
Great picks of that route have popped up here and there.
I think that traverse gets 11a in the latest guide.
When I was up there last year climbing Coatimundi-Candyland, these two YSLs (Young Strong Local) were up there. Got to watch their antics from a nice seat below the Great Roof. First guy goes up and leads out to the corner where the crack going up is found. He sets a piece and lowers down to a small ledge directly below where there is a bolt for Once Upon A Time. His partner comes across the traverse, and when he's at the corner, he lowers down as well. Then the first guy goes back up to pull the corner of the roof. Guess they don't like rope drag.
I walked across Landscape Arch when I was in high school in 1973? It was not very hard to get on top, I did it with a non-climber friend. We walked over and back and got back down the same way we came up, on the South side. I wouldn't do it now for fear of the law!
edit: also the law of gravity, since that giant chunk fell off of it a few years ago.
edit squared: That traverse looks unbeleivabley thin! It must be gripping to both lead and follow! Yikes!
Largo;...you can't beat this sort of sh#t for novelty, strangeness, fun, and just earth's oddball freaks;.......some of the best adventures on the planet, aren't they....(yeah;...I left out the pics of Cleo and stuff, as they are in New Mex......but Arizona is awesome and the tits on the bull.....) Soloed across this arch "secretly" at about 6 AM on morning all by myself......it was like walking on a granite sidewalk, suspended in space.....300 feet long, 150 high, and 5 feet thick in the middle.....
I've done it. Hard 11+ or was it the bird sh#t factor through fairly hard climbing that made it so stiff? Really though, my bud and I got beat a bit on it until we reached the stance. Then............we were scared. I guess technically we did the "yo-yo" thing. We sat on the ledge contemplating gunning it above on the stems. We both wanted to do, but my bud wanted it more. (whew!) He punched it and I followed clean.
I talked to quite a few people who have done it or at least given it a go. I'm pretty sure I heard a story from Rusty of Steve Deickoff (sp) taking some screamers off that thing back in the day.
Incredible line for sure.
Another absolutely kick-ass free climb up there is The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. That is big wall free climbing on a little ol' crag in AZ. The moves are so good along with the positioning out on wall left of the Flying Buttress. I recommend this route to anyone...........aiding or freeing it.
Bob J. on morning coffee
A little off topic but . . . that Landscape Arch is one of the freakiest and most outrageous rock formations I have ever seen. We walked in along the ridge to the right, did a short rap to a ledge and from there we could walk right out onto the arch. Walking out along that skinny dude is easy but super weird and spooky. We (Brother Bob Gaines) and I snuck our way onto a stack of those arches. I had a baseball with parachuted cord attached and tried hucking that over a few of the arches but it never worked (I was going to drag a bigger line over via the parachute cord).
Back to Granite Mountain, I looked at the Sorcerer when we were thre and thought it looked probable but would be real stiff. Hey, has anyone recently led Jump Back Jack Crack? That looks serious.
Haven't heard of, or seen, anyone leading Jump Back lately. Amazing accomplishment for 1972. Sometime in the last five years, I was doing the descent hike down off the east end and came on a couple of guys giving it a go on toprope. The poor sod tied in at the time was bloody from knees to elbows, but game to give it another go and switching from the left side option over to the right side. Don't know how he fared after that...
Not totally sure, but I think this pic of Jump Back Jack Crack came from the '73 Lovejoy guide:
Rick D, and I 'jumped back' circa '90, maybe he remembers the date. It was the day we did Improbability Drive. A single nine mil, minimal gear, epic (falling didn't seem an option) was involved. I removed a biner I'd left on a bolt when Raypole and I had been rained off maybe 4 years earlier. I don't think it gets much traffic.
I've spent a lot of time up at Granite Mountain when a lot of people didn't know I was there. In that time I've seen two parties on Jump Back Jack. One time it was one of the Coats brothers as I talked with Scott Baxter on the front porch. Scott Baxter! That guy, in one conversation, allowed me the vision that there is tons to do no matter what, everywhere. You just have to look. I think that was 95 or 96. Not certain at all. So, the next time I see Scott Baxter I'm walking up road from Mars attacks with a class of rock climbers and here comes the famous Sedona Pink Jeep. The jeep pulls up and the driver says,"Hi Bob." What? I don't know any pink jeep drivers. Well, its Scott Baxter and he friggin remembers me. I felt stupid for not recognizing him!
Also, in 93, I was climbing at Upper Sullivan's Canyon and my buddy and I did some great TRing with Baxter and buddies. Pretty sure I didn't really know who he was at the time. My buddy and I get back to the car and start it up only to realize that we had, in no way, enough gas to get back to town. We rifled the car with no success. With our heads down and our egos gone for the day we went back into the canyon to ask the boys if they had any spare change. I can't quite remember how we got all the change,b ut we did. I do remember Scott and his friends acting like the position we got ourselves into was not by any means unheard of in the climbing world. They seemed thoroughly amused.
I have no idea what Scott's real impression of us was. Hilarious.
Oh yeah! The second time I saw people on Jump Back Jack was 2003 or 4. Some unknowns as far as I was concerned and they floated like it was 5.9. Maybe it was the guys I saw a few days earlier who floatillad Gunsmoke and then floated Sorcerer. They were both wearing helmets and both REALLY knew how to climb.
I've done the first Var. pitch on JBJ and it was pretty easy for what I thought it was going to be.
We didn't do the upper part cuz we were chicken sh#t. 1996.
I will climb that crack before the Mountain closes in Feb. I'll post up.
Well, I guess I'll know where to find you Jensen. Contact me, fuker, I'm back in AZ and want to climb. THIS IS JEFE.
Back in the early 90's(whenever Croft's NIAD record was 4:20) a buddy and I had the idea to climb at all of Prescott's crags in a day.
Promised Land- Burning Bosches 11a
Sullivan's Canyon- nameless 5.9
Granite Dells- Co-Op Crack 5.10
Thumb Butte- The Koran 5.10
Granite Mountain- Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.8
I'm a little late in responding, but I'm sittin in the BisbeeAZ library whiling away a gloomy rest day with MisterE. Climbed at Lemmon 2 days, Lizard Marmalade Direct Rocks!, like a harder version of Illusion Dweller(CCTFSLB, for you old dudes). Checked out Dry Canyon yesterday in the Whetstone Mts. Quality steep limestone facing south. It was almost too hot yesterday! Back to the thread though, for some reason I decided to do Jump Back Jack Crack about 10 years ago. One of my favorite wide things anywhere. Kind of stout but it's all there. Onsight! The Dr.
I wrestled with the direct start and got past the crux bolted bulge only to regrettably cluck and despair at the long runout on squeeze above. My cluster of Tubechocks offered no comfort past 6". These days all that would take pro easily.
Great fat fest and one of the most striking lines at the Mountain.
This story says a lot about why Grossman was the man (in my mind anyway). There were others who could probably pull harder technical moves but no one moved with more grace and solid head control than Steve.
Paul and I were debate partners in highschool in Tucson. I introduced him to climbing around 1972. Coming from a wrestling background, he took to it readily and we became a very strong team. Paul used to be able to do multiple one finger/one arm pullups on a loop of 7mm cord!
This shot of rapping down Hitchcock Rock appeared in my 74 Tucsonian yearbook. My sister Barbara was the editor.
Went to Granite Mountain this weekend to get my ass into climbing shape. I friggen love G. Mtn!!!!!!!!!!!! Always brings back so many memories because it is where I really learned to climb.
I had the camera and never gave it up. I want to be the only one to bust it. Control thing I guess.
1. Ahh, heading up in the morning.
2. Buddy following 1st pitch of King Pin.
3. Buddy leading crux corner. Sorry, but butt shot was unavoidable.
4. Fella linking cracks on Coat. Candyland.
5. Buddy following 3rd pitch of King Pin the way that we linked some pitches.
6. Buddy finishing 3rd pitch with fella in back ground at the belay for Coat. Candyland
7. Buddy leading last pitch to summit. Some more ass shots. Overall, a horrible climb for sure! j/k.
8. Boys next door on C.C. just before I followed up the last pitch of King Pin.
9. We returned to the Front Porch to relax and found ourselves on another route we know as the "Hotline" in minutes. It links 1st of the Nose, 2nd of Cats Pajamas, 3rd of Reunion. Great crack line for sure right up the Flying Buttress. Left the camera at the base, but the boys on Coatimundi Candyland snapped a few when they got down. This is of me leading the last bit of Reunion's splitter finger crack.
All in all a great ending to the weekend. The weather doesn't get much better, the friends, great climbing, and the most beautiful setting did wonders for me getting back into climbing shape both physically and most important, mentally.
Give a shout Jefe. I've got a schedule these days so..............
Definitely thought about you up there. I remember the 1st route I ever did there was Magnolia and we all met at the top. I even have some pics (unscanned) of you chilling with Scott? was his name?
"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
That's on the east side. Entrance dome? Out-of-towners dome? I can never keep those straight. Anyway, I did the first 3 of the 5 pitches a few years back. The rock gets pretty chossy above that, but the pitches we did were verynice.
A few years ago I did a line between Ides of Middlemarch and Stampede. A line of bolts led up to a stance, followed by a second significantly more poorly protected pitch up a shallow groove, over an overlap and a traverse right to a stance. The third pitch was quite bouldery directly above the stance and then it fizzled out somewhat, we finished up some stuff I'd done before over to the left.
I never got a name or grade, it was good climbing, but an odd mix of super safe and bold.
That's the Doctor's Office, Steve - where we found your webbing for the descent off of Lucky Goes to the Creamery.
There's an unclimbed 200 foot over-hanging splitter on that wall with the brown stripe, gonna be wicked hard when it goes.
The tale of the FA of Days of Future Passed is a classic and I will tell it on the Abra thread with full photo documentation when I have the time.
Nice shots of Kingpin, Bob! I did an early ascent of that beautiful and surprisingly friendly line. I absolutely ate the first pitch up only to have a wierd little bout of vertigo belaying higher on the route. Too much time spent looking down the steepness!
Killer wires and edges and you're feelin' like a Kingpin up there! Great route.
How about from the Forks, thanks to Larry for his work scanning (and to Haisley's and others for sharing)
FA of the classic East of Eden, by the man we all owe the Forks to: Scott the Man Baxter
Actually, we owe the find of the Forks to Jim Whitfield, troubled artiste extraordinaire, RIP old friend. He took Scott out there and told him
he'd thought he'd found a place with some pretty good looking climbs. :-)
Tim Coats on second ascent of Sail Away
(might be first ascent, but I was pretty sure I led it first and Tim repeated it. Maybe he did it before me and never had the heart to tell me ?)
FA of Pillowing (aka Davidson Dihedral)
FA of King Fissure (2 pitch climb at the Forks ? Kinda a hard second pitch. Named for the King Fisher flying around and croaking at us) - Davidson and Baxter
FFA of the Gold Finger Exit - Larry had led the lower pitch and used a move of aid on this exit (as I recall anyway) and dared us to free these moves. King Fissure is two corners right. Davidson, Haisley
In honor of the Man of Flagstaff:
Scott Baxter.... Find the Beanie.
This was from one of his Syndicato Banquets,
which started the whole Beanfest thing.
I believe this was the second year he'd had a bouldering contest at Parks Wall
That's Scott's dad in the right foreground, Davidson on the wall and Hernando Coates waiting to pounce.
And the list goes on....
(someday I'll actually scan my own slides)
I'm obviously missing some of my most important partners, these images are all just from borrowed scans...
Larry on the first day on Dresdoom, leading the second pitch:
(first time, he went way right, second time, I went way left, much later I did the blue ribbon exit going straight up.) Larry and I put a fair amount of work into doing this climb in what we felt was a safe manner (we'd come back with different gear to make slots and slings.) Nowdays, I'd say it probably needs about 3 bolts to make it more of classic. 3 bolts would probably still leave some good shrivel factor.
Closing the day out with just a so so shot but of one my all time favorite climbs, The Prow (no, not that one), this is at the Overlook. This may be in the closed off area but it's far enough away from the Monkey Cages that it shouldn't be verboten.
Steve, I have to think if there's one pic of the Creamery, there's more. But, I sure thought Larry was in on it.
I thought he'd done the first pitch then come down
and found us and drug us down there to finish it.
Maybe he went up the first pitch then rapped off ?
That rings a vague bell. Like he had a class or something.
Bob J - yes, I suspect that pic is from that area because I stole it from D'Antonio. I have a few other great pics of the man on slides I'll have to dig up. While that shot is not Az (I don't think, it is of the man himself so belongs here since pics of him are really quite rare.)
Steve, now just need to get that nikon scanner working again.
Certainly have a few more that are postable !
Thanks J, long time no see. Awahnee with Serena as newborn I think was the last time I saw you..... Just to show how time flies....
sorry images are a bit big, but on my large monitor they seem to fit in ok. on my laptop they're crunched...
You are correct. You, Tim, Jim and me.
But for some reason, I thought Larry had done the first pitch previously and went there with us to do it then rapped off after one. I recall leading a first pitch of 5.10 or so, slightly run out, mantly move onto a belay ledge ? Or, I could be confusing it with just some other climb.
Can't let Jim be dissin a slag heap and get away with it:
At a Syndicato Banquet, I think Jim had just gotten back from possibly his first big trip to Cerro ?
Great slide show, had to "borrow and liberate" some Prescott College gear
for an outdoor show and then use the gym when the weather turned.
(L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey
And yes, that Walkup (President of NAU's daughter) and that is what it looks like on Phil's left hand.
Scott Baxter's friend Philipo in Paul's shot above lost all of both hands but a wrist on one to a Civil War re-enactment accident. Despite the handicap he was able to manage many 5.7 routes and enjoyed himself fully battling away! Great guy!
It was inspiring to watch him work a set of moves all his own on every route with a wrist and a hook.
To round off Steve's story of Phil's accident: it happened as he was tamping down a canon. (Steve, the ole VW bus came from Phil.)
Some of the old gang:
We can thank Larry Coats for most (all?) of the recent images I've posted. If he didn't shoot it, he at least scanned them in.
(yeah, some are lousy and dark, but some might say that's a reflection of the soul...)
Larry on Witblitz
Jim Haisley on Witblitz
et moi on Witblitz
et moi, top of first pitch, FA of the Dong.
Jim Haisley on the first ascent of Bleak Streak
(what's wrong with this picture ?)
Wrong ? I'm lying like a rug,
FA was Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom and Dave Kolpin, 1971,5.8
From the Lovejoy Guide:
This is a classic in thin face climbing which ascends the seemingly flawless wall called "The Face."
A face climbing specialist with stiff shoes will find this climb a breeze, but the man not accustomed to this sort of climbing may get caught in a Hurricane.
Care should be used in checking the security of the Holds.
PARAPHERNALIA: A small selection of small pitons and nuts is adequate to protect the final pitch and belay points on this route.
Please do not add or chop bolts.
Many a climber has been caught in a hurricane trying to lead GM 5.8s and 5.9s. This one is probably really only 5.8 ? Maybe 5.9 ?
But there did used to be that 20 ft grounder into a flake that the FA ran out and then stopped and drilled.
Last time I did this, I recall actually getting some possibly decent pro (slider, ball nut and/or TCU ?)
Yes, I've done that route. I had a chalk bag and my clothes and nothing else and it was just chimney as I recall. I went out on some crack at the end that was way harder than the rest, but still moderate. Fun.
Elden, what a fun place. I always really liked the Deception Cracks.
Steve, I have some slides somewhere of 2nd ascent of The Zone. I'll have to dig them up. Seems like I saw them just recently....
One of those photos was of the Eleysian buttress, wasn't it ?
John's Jugs is wicked hard and even more painful.
We use to call that Tenure crack (it was next to Retirement crack), except we could never get up it. Something about those wires just didn't inspire much trust. I think the FA was via TR and then later led? It's an impressive thing.
Just the standard quads to 16" ;) Had the doubles on #5 and #6, and singles in the #4's on down. The fixed head still looks nice for a 1938 placement..... bolt is fat and shiny now.
Climbing was fairly continuous and strenuous in my condition. No real crux, but all about the same. Probably 5.8+ in Josh or 5.14c in the Gym. Calling it 5.9 seems like a pretty good sandbag. Does that place ever see sun? Did the first pitch in a down jacket.... Susan was a Soozesickle™™™ at the belay. We were going to bail right there at the top of #1, but I decided to at least do the wide pitch since I humped all that gear up there. She reminded me that there were no anchors at the top of #2.... oops.... Set out knowing I would need to cut a few favorite children loose from the stopper rack to get back down. Good stuff! Free gear at the belay! b00ty!!!111
...and remember all those who hate the hard wide. Dean Brault and Dave Des Champs did a 2 bolt (10+) face variation into the top of pitch 2 on Abra from Knead Me (so a little 5.7 chimney on first pitch).
What a great pic of DB on the classic grunt pitch.
I think I once led pitches one and two together on Abra w/ JJ.
He did not want to lead anything and I wanted to get it over with.
As I recall, I regretted it up there where the second starts to pinch down and kick you out right.
I'm wondering if you can really do them together or if it's just an old man's fading memory. (I did lead everything that day but maybe it's a fantasy of 1 and 2 as one.)
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
I'd been hearing that Twilight Zone was considered 5.10c or d but it shows up on Mountain Project still as 11- (with only one consensus.)
Sure is steep though and because of that and the rock type, somewhat painful. I'd be sure and be wearing my jammies these days
(gad's what an admission, but as I saw Baxter once justify it, 30 years of crack scar tissue prefers those cheater gloves.)
More theft from of Larry Coats images:
Baxter did the FA with aid.
Larry was w/ Ed Webster when they did the FFA.
Ed on the FFA
And Larry was there the day Steve did the 2nd FFA with me as belay slave (circa spring 77):
Check out that special nut on Steve's left side !
Actually, this thing absolutely sews up with trad nuts because the crack is so pocketed. I personally think passive pro is way better on a climb like this than cams. It won't walk, it won't get in the way of the jam, and you can hang a truck off a 9 hex buried in a pocket.
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
The first pitch of Abra, right?
Modern pro is real good. The seam takes small to med cams pretty good and then there is the 1854 rusted bolt. I thought the first pitch was harder than it looks (looks about 5.7) and kinda funky. I just did it like a salmon going upstream, using a flat left leg and an heel toe on the outside of the shallow flare, upper body stuffed in as deep as possible. The crux is pretty short at about a body length or so. Top of the pitch has some fat rap anchors. It sure looks like pitches one and two will go together, for sure with a 70m since both raps (from top of two, and top of one) can be done easily with one rope.
Thnx for the update Russ.
That's how I remember that first pitch.
Nothing like knowing OW climbing for getting up seamy grooves.
Man, if it's got nice rap anchors, why didn't they replace that POS bolt at the same time.
As I recall, it's a 1/4" in a freaking water groove.
It was rusted out back in the 70's.
And what AZ thread would be complete with out a picture of Tim Coats
(one of the most unheralded crack climbers most of you've never heard of):
Once again, another theft from Larry, Tim on 2nd ascent of Ultimate Finger Crack:
Ed Webster won the humor category in a Climbing photo contest (#62 Sept-Oct 1980) with this classic shot of Scott clowning around at his own personal basalt bouldering clifflet minutes from his old haunts at Forks.
Meanwhile back at the house...the goat is in the pit and its bottle walking and caber tossing out back!
Many a later Syndicato Granitica Banquet was hosted by Scott at Parks.
Here's the list of natural hazards for the new guidebooks - thought some of you might enjoy it:
There are a multitude of natural hazards in Northern Arizona, and due care should be taken to stay alert of your surroundings and watch the weather. Hazards include, but may not limited to:
Lightning, heavy downpours, high winds, loose rock, dangerous scree slopes, flash floods, radical temperature changes, relentless sun, freezing canyons, abandoned mine shafts, yucca, cactus and other plant hazards, range cattle, coyotes, mountain lions, bears, falcons, rattlesnakes, bats, spiders, scorpions, bees and wasps.
I was stung the other day by bees here in Az. I got an excellent workout running downhill with the full pack, trying (a) to get the max distance between myself and the unseen hive, and (b) to do so in a casual, nonchalant manner, so as not to unduly upset the bees. I got away with a few stings, but was waiting for the full awarm to descend on me at any moment. I've seen giant swarms of Africanized bees blow across the cliff -- pretty spooky.
Erik, are you going to add Phonecian beta spewers to the list of objective hazards?
Ok- here are some more I forgot about. Ice climbing at West Elden on one remarkable winter. The color shots are all on Baxter Cracker and the slab below it, and the B&W is somewhere on the far right end, almost to Twilight Zone.
Freakin A, about time you chimed in Bud !
Nice shots, and btw, I was doing a roof mantle.
In case you're trying to keep your anonymity....
Here's a little story about ice climbing at Elden, names changed to protect the anonymous.
So, Elden forms (late '70s) and my good buddy Hernando starts trying to drag out me there. I don't know man, that stuff looks sharp and pointy, I say.
Hernando continues to rave (I guess it had formed the year before or so and he'd done a bit then.) So, he talks me into it, lends me some gear (I think I had my own axe and crampoons.)
We drive out to Elden and get out of the car (duh...)
Hernando hands me some gear, gives me a 30 second lesson in strapping this sh#t on and pops on his crampons.
He's excited to be out and quickly ditches me to run up to the ice. Pigout the wonder dog is quickly on his tail; that animal could smell blood long before it even happens.
Meantime, I'm back at the parking lot being a total dweeb and trying to figure out how all this weird, dangerous crap goes on my feet. I mean, you used to have lace this stuff on to your Galibiers. At least I could still touch my toes back then but other than that, it was pretty humorous watching me trying to get this stuff strapped on. Kinda like a noob trying to get into a harness that's been all twisted up.
I look up just in time to see Hernando jump on the ice and do two moves up. He's raving about how good the ice is, plastic fantastic stuff, when suddenly his Humingbird comes ripping out and there's a hellacious noise of metal jingling and crashing and ice breaking and Pigdog starts jumping and barking and it's freakin bedlam.
I notice that there appears to be some redness to the white ice and Hernando is sitting on the ground holding his head. I do the limp dash over there with one crampon on and one off to find blood everywhere !
Hernando is holding his hand over his eye and blood is streaming down his fingers. Pigdog the wonder dog is going apesh#t.
I mean totally whack. This dog is running around everywhere licking up the bloody ice. He's barking, whining and eating and just having the time of his life.
In the meantime, I'm thinking Hernando has just lost an eye to this evil sport.
He uncovers his face and says that he thinks he's allright.
I look and there's this perfect circle cut into his face that totally rings his eye. The backside of his Humingbird had a sharp open circle about an inch in diameter that had kicked back and whacked the f*#k out of his head. A tool designed to take a chunk out of ice makes pretty quick work of facial flesh.
We scoop up snow and plaster it onto his face and pretty soon the bleeding stops and Hernando says he's feeling ok. So... we do some really shaky ice bouldering and then head home.
I gotta admit, I used to be a pretty sick fxxx because on the way home, I look over and see this perfect circle cut around Hernando's eye and just start laughing uncontrollably.
I'm sure it was just nervous release and not really rude dark climbing humor.
The next day a sign appears at the Alpineer:
1 Set of Salewa Rigid Crampons
1 Chouinard Ice Axe
Naw, I made that last bit up. I kept my gear but I do have to say that with that being my intro to ice climbing, it never became my most favorite climbing activity.
In the meantime, Hernando has to walk around Flagstaff with one of the most bizarre black eyes you've ever seen. And as it started to turn colors, it had the look of the raccoon from hell.
And that's the story of my first time on ice, in AZ no less.
Wow, in my next life I'm gonna give Arizona a try!
It was the scene of one of my first attempts at peak bagging. On the way from Chicago to LA in '62 we stopped at a rest area for lunch. While Grannie and Mom kicked it in the shade the bros (both 8) and me (12) headed for some 'peak'. We never made it to the base. We all came back within about 15 minutes festooned with chollas. We were particularly perplexed by the ones adorning our Keds. How to get them off? I swear this is true. I came up with the idea of burning them off! We waited until the heat was unbearable and then knocked them off. That was the only way we could shed the Keds! Then we could work on the stubs with pliers. The twins had it the worst. Despite some serious lip trembling I don't recall either of them really losing it.
Impressive Reilly. Them jumpin' chollas were still ruthless 20 years later with Nike waffle bottoms. Had spikes embedded almost throughout my college days. Got used to em. They always managed to fester out on their own, didn't they?
Being young and tender, us that is, they seemed to come out fairly easily. Being OCD I made damn sure they were all out before we got back in the car!
It never happened again until I was demonstrating their jumping prowess to my wife who had never seen them. Of course, I then got to demonstrate my extraction prowess; DOH!
MC, (MC?! MPC?) and steelmonk, just came across your posts from the 11th, It's not likely, March is a 22 day work month for me, this year, I'll be lucky to get out alive, as it is. but it won't always be like that, and I'm jonseing the supes and Zonerland!
And Jaybro- it probably wasn't your lack of persistence that kept you from finding ice at Elden (or pretty much anywhere in Arizona). What made that year remarkable was the sequence of events: 1) heavy snowfall on an El Nino year, followed by 2) a really wet rain event, and then 3)super cold temps setting in for a few days. The result was an ice-sheathed Elden, that stayed around for several weeks, even though temps warmed back up to normal, mild Flag conditions. I looked for it again and again over the years, but never saw anything like that one winter.
You keep showing up like that and I'm gonna have to start carrying an avalanche beacon and shovel around the house!
A warm ST welcome to the illustrious Don Bosco Moraini, haute alpine sleuth, enforcer for the Syndicato Granitica and desert demi-god. The guidebook is in the house and so is the man's extensive slide collection as adventure's Eye of the North!
Damn, little Pikie, I gotta shed a tear for the dog that wouldn't die.
First, he's gets run over by a Jeep. Was it twice as you backed up to see what you'd hit ?
Then, while doing the Silver Pond down climb at the Forks, I'm standing down on the rock below the third class (what, 15 feet of 5.7 or something like that ?) when Pika decides he's going to come down without his normal rope. He's coming down head first and slams onto the ledge right next to me.
Now to this day, I'm falsely accused of trying to drown that dog. I just did what any good physicist would.
I tried to help conserve his momentum so that he wouldn't expend it all on the splat onto the ledge.
I just gave him a little Tai Chi move towards the water.
It's really amazing how long a dog can stay under water when he's jumped down a 20 feet problem and then sailed another 15 feet through the air.
He was under for what seemed like a very long time.
I was starting think I'd finally done the impossible and killed Pika when bubbles started showing up and finally up pops Pika, snorting and wiggling.
For some reason, that dog avoided me for the rest of the day.
But I'm convinced I saved his life or at the very least, kept him from breaking his legs.
Here's a toast to Pika the wonder dog.
The Alpineer mascot, he'd jump out of the back of a moving pick up, with a chain on in order to go after another dog.
We should all be so lucky to have his adventures and then die of old age.
One fond recollection of AZ,.. circa early 1980's. Departing Tucson, after a winter of walking the streets, and sleeping on friend's patios,.. I headed out west of town. Hitching across the Pima reservation,.. it took all day, with a heavy spring rain quenching/drenching the cacti and adobes. Finally, around nightfall I took shelter in an abandoned gas station, just north of Organ Pipes NM.
The next morning,.. sweeping back the sands of sleep, I was greeted with an amazing sunrise. Brilliant and warm. The day was stretched forth, with my footfalls carried across a soft carpet of desert wildflowers. The vastness of the land juxtaposed with the myraid of small plant forms radiant and alive with their blooms,.. was beautiful. The aroma of the blossoms and wet earth,.. truely a living thing.
To all the oldtimers and the newcomers, happy trails.
bob and steve- thanks so much for the granite mtn. photos. brings back such great memories- so happy that the finger crack on reunion got some props. i suffered through a scary, desperate lead on the fisty second pitch, only to have my ego restored by that beautiful splitter up there on the third. what a day that was..... one of so many in that magical place.
Interesting place this arid zona, after a snow out in cochise the three weary canucks and their Nevada bretheren head to organ pipe,purported to be the "warmest place in Arizona". The chosen route, an amazing choss pile called montezuma's head.
All goes well on this New year's eve ascent, the crux being the swarming border patrol. Loose rock and route finding aside It'ol lets us pass. Sonoyta has an after route blowout, complete with machine gun fire(new years and all)and the campsite in organ pipe(barely heard of climbers)provides awesome camping(1000yr old pack rat nest in saguaro).The two events that mark it as exceptional, occur during meals on the road. First is breakfast in Sells. After silencing the place by coming in(not too many whiteys in here) we get food. The wobbling table and sloping floors are cool but the lack of silverware is disconcerting. A request for some, is met with the response "out here on the res. we use our fingers" Huh? The second interesting situation is after our climb (New years day) we eat breakfast in Why, don't ask.
The restraunt, surrounded by trailers, is an abandoned DQ occupied by locals. The walls were decorated with very large longerie, the waitress was toting a two year old and the cook was wearing a side arm(WTF). Any how seems trivial in the read but it was all better than wilcox. cheers
Pika the dog was pretty sharp. Once at a party in Flag, I made an offhand joke about giving him a lobotomy. Pika strolled over, put one paw on my knee and set his head squarely atop it. He looked me right in the eye until I apologized and went back across the room and laid down. Uncanny incident for a smart dog!
All bets were off if you happened to be below on a dog friendly downclimb and Pika got the urge!
Located on the formation up the ridge from The Flying Buttress. This classic route climbs over a large V-forming arch for six pitches.
Drive 3.5 miles up Schnebly Hill Road to large gravel lot on the right. Cross the road and head South on the Cowpies Trail over large patches of slickrock. Traverse left and under the formation on single-track trail.
Past Archenemy, one can head further West for the Flying Buttress routes, Technicolor and Epitaph.
Double 0.5"- 3", (1)-3.5", (1)-4". P1: fingers to O/W (5.9), p2: Left past thin crack to exposed bolted face (5.11-), P3: Hands thru roof traverse Left at bolt (5.10), p4: many bolts to bombay squeeze p5: bolted traverse to right, p.6: Short 5.10 crner to O/W, then 4th class. Two-rope rappel.
Drljefe- The description sent by Mr.E looks good. The 11- on pitch 2 is short and well protected. Pitch 4 is the business- sustained 5.10 bolted face to the 5.11+ crack followed by some 11- into a flare. The crux has a bolt at face level. Enjoy!
Jefe, haven't done it, but Trout and I have been keen!(sp?) The line looks fantastic. Evan and I went out there to do Miami once and had some weather issues. Next time we went to do it it was gone. GONE! Why don't Trout, myself and yoself do it together? Move discussion to phone or email.
West Ridge homey. Cuando? You stay at my village. You no pay.
MisterE- you can do the second pitch of Depth Charge at 10a or so and a nice crack to the top of the conning tower! The first pitch is 10+ and exciting with a classic limestone overhang problem to pull above the waterline onto easier ground.
A Peter Noebels photo of Paul Davidson powering up New Wave 12a on an early repeat. As the name implies, a wave of airy clip and go testpieces were not long in coming. This is one of the most striking lines at Windy Point.
Damn, that Donini guy sure puts all us young punks to shame.
I'm happy to be out pulling off run out 5.8 (ok, 8+) and bolted 10s... And he's out warming up on 11s so he can do the real stuff way down south.
Here's a bit I recall from Depth Charge...
Steve and Tim (??) were putting up the route. I was doing something over on the west end of Submarine with John Fleming (Up Periscope rings a bell, decent climb up that west nose) when Steve starts yelling about clearing the area. I'm lazing as the belay slave on our climb when suddenly the whole damn rock vibrates as a good sized trundle cuts loose and crashes off the base of the rock.
I mean seriously, it wasn't earthquake magnitude but Submarine is a big rock and we were on the west end, what, 100 yards away from Depth Charge, when Steve, on the lead and confronting some rather big nasties, releases the first charge. It caused that whole submarine to vibrate but good.
I think it took 10 years off Timmy's life to have that shrapnel hit so close and be so loud. It was safe, or as safe as any block down toward a belayer can be. I seem to recall a few more barrels went off that day, cleaning up the lead for the second ascent (still waiting....) but damn, if my nap wasn't ruined.
It's a pretty impressive lead, right up the middle of the big south face. Old skool pro, I don't think there's anything fixed ?
It's looking like I have my routes confused. Musta been the shrapnel, PTSD kicking in.
There was a beautiful handcrack up a corner and out a big roof about thirty feet up. A rickety blade of rock about ten feet tall guarded the start. After screwing around trying to stem past it, it became obvious that it was over the side for the pup! I crawled up behind it after yelling down every sort of warning and employed a power armbar!
Slowly the blade began to lean into space and head into the void. One loud klack and the thousand pounds separated into suitcase-sized blocks and disappeared over the edge sucking the rock dust along.
A three count and the charge went off at 200'! About the same and a wild shock wave came flying through the entire formation! The folks nearby definitely were not expecting that big a depth charge! Great pitch once the way was clear.
I don't recall that first pitch being too harrowing besides the block chucking at the horizontal breaks. No fixed pro anywhere on that route that I can recall
TM Herbert and Don Wilson (1959). Pretty proud runout, although I later found a pin scar 2/3's of the way up above the bolt. Did you know that when we replaced the original nail drives that the last bolt was placed improperly- with the nail through the hanger and not the whole sheath!
I think those old nail drives had enough resistance that they figured they were good for the strength of the nail! I sure would rather clip into the whole show. I wonder if TM remembers that one? Did those guys do anything else on that visit?
With all the discussion about Submarine Rock, I forgot to mention the most interesting story. When Tim and I did the second ascent, we climbed a crack system alongside an old bolt ladder (self-drills with the hangers and caps removed). So when we got on top, we expected a drilled rappel anchor to simply re-rig and rap off. Instead, when we reached the NW corner of the formation (where the rap anchors are now), there was one partially drilled hole, and a second with a self-drill hanging halfway out- no bolts, hangers, etc. Fortunately we had brought up the drill and established the current anchor. But our bafflement continues (cue the scary music)- just how did the first ascent party get off? Were they picked up by a UFO? (Further inspection of the summit yielded no other natural anchors or hint of descent possibilities. I suppose a Needle's rappel would work, but wasn't very common knowledge in the '70's)
Steve, there are two routes on the formation. One pitch 5.7 (guy in the pics is on it) and a two pitch 5.5 called The Grope that goes up the face to the right. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I heard someone's story once about it having some pretty classic Supes manky rock over there. Probably have a line on it in the Canadian Rockies. :-)
Queen Creek, much maligned by some that don't know much of it. It has decent bouldering, ask the thousands that partied there at the PBC and other times. Long routes on good rock, sans piranha teeth even. This shot is Smoking the Toad, 5.8, mixed bolts/pro, 150' long and mucho fun Donna leading, Charles belaying:
Here's Pensylenvy (following) and Dan Z on Easy Street, a cool sport route at the end of Hackberry Creek in Lower Devil's Canyon with Pinal Peak in the background. Only a few routes in the photo, some pinnacles await FAs:
Here's a bit of minor history regarding Queen Creek:
Not sure when the first of anything was done in that area, being Tucson and Flag boys, but sometime around 83/84 I'd been popped for a speeding ticket near Globe while coming back from Sunrise to Tucson.
I talked Steve into going up into that area with me on the day of my "court appearance." I'd been bouldering on some of the limestone and quartzite and thought we might find something bigger.
Very odd, ticket dismissed by the Judge's secretary. "Just call next time and we can take care of it over the phone." Not your typical small town AZ traffic court, let me tell you.
We headed west out of Globe and after coming out the far west side of queen creek we turn around and head back toward the creek. We hadn't seen much appealing to a couple of tradsters but there was one thing so we and parked close to where the road starts to enter the canyon. We humped up the hill to the N towards the most obvious square "tower" where Steve proceeds to lead some 10ish (R?) bit of face/crack which pretty much rained pieces of rock the whole time. Some of them tossed off, some of them skittered off every time Steve put a foot down.
I remember we talked about the place might make for some good sport climbing (just coming into AZ at the time) if you were willing to climb right by the road and clean, clean, clean.
Don't recall if we walked off, rapped off, if it was only one pitch or two or even what Steve named it. Something to do with the ticket I think...
Other than the PBC, I haven't climbed there again. I suppose someday. Naw... If I'm coming back to AZ, I'm heading elsewhere. No offense, but Queen Creek vs Granite Mnt, Flag, Tucson, Stronghold, Sedona, etc... Not much of a decision there. Maybe stuck in Phnx for a weekend ?
Dang Mike... I didn't think I was that boring...
At least the beer was good, eh? :-)
Paul, climbing was going on in the canyon proper back in 1973 with this route (Legal Dihedral). A nice climb, but no so legal anymore as I think it's basically considered off limits by the gummint these days because it's located smack on the side of higway 60.
First climbed by Larry Treiber and partners with a second pitch done by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock. That was probably some of the earliest (recorded) climbing in the canyon.
Next up were probably most of the lines on the Little England Wall (this is on the south side of the canyon just past the tunnel) were done in 1977 by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock.
Larry Treiber, now there's a name that should have come up in this thread a long time ago.
That big guy could really face climb. At Gnt Mnt: Slide Action Traction is one of his routes I believe. Also Slammer Jam, Beaver Cleaver, Green Dagger, Dislocation Buttress, The Nose, Deep Yogurt, Falling Ross, Granite Jungle, Walk Soft, Once in a Blue Moon, Delphina Lightning Ass, and ...
What's the story on him spending the night on the GM Nose (rather than just rapping down ?)
For you Mnt afficianados, Deep Yogurt is one rarely done and obscure climb that is really quite good. Two pitches up and right of Coke Bottle. Might go as one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope.
That's Larry alright. I recall him looking a bit more like Jimmy Buffet meets Commander Cody!
Larry also did a bunch of routes at the 10 to 4 Wall on Kitt Peak up the road from Aquagomy. An obscure couple of areas that are open from 10 to 4 on the gated road to Kitt Peak.
pk davidson, I climbed Deep Yogurt for the first time this year! It was an absolute blast. Tricky gear for sure for some parts. I just couldn't believe I hadn't done that one yet. Just sitting there getting looked at for years.
It was windy this Saturday, so we had to resort to deviant tactics..
Pumphouse Wash, right in my backyard, nothing but trees and a dirt road separates this Arizona appreciation beauty, 5 miles of them...
We came a little ill prepared. This crack was longer than we thought. Too bad. We had to set our sites upon something else.
the ultimate dihedral
now here's a bit of some unfortunate truth. I told my buddy Doug that I onsighted this route (I lied). But I did clip the first three pitons off the ground (which is a feat in itself!!). Poor Doug, sandbagged again. The moss/slab crux was pretty gruesome.
So Paul, you call that white wedding? We didn't make it up yet!!!!
Hopefully will be better prepared next time. Next attempt I am gonna bring the right gear. Looked like an anchor below the bush would make sense. I will try to find what the local knowledge base knows about this.
Edit I looked on Mtn Project and this is the crack.It's so nice I can't believe it hasn't had a few ascents. We certainly did not have triples...been there before but it's easy to forget how long these climbs are. With the right amount of gear I think we certainly could have topped the first pitch. The second looked to be a deep recessed chimney. Do you recollect?
Our first pitch belayed up in the chimney to which you refer. Which sort of reminds me that pulling out of the crack and into the bombay was pretty exciting, especially since at that point, I could see what the belay was.
The base of the bombay is where Steve had the butt/foot belay and a #3 hex sideways on maybe 2 points.
For the 2nd pitch, I went out onto the face right of the chimney. I think I remember the chimney pinching out not too far up and I seem to recall getting some gear in there and at the occasional overlap. As I mentioned on MP, I believe we had to simul for about 15 ft of the second pitch in order to make the rim and the big jack pines. But those were 50m daze.
You will definitely want a bolt kit to put in a belay if you go to the chimney and I think the second pitch can use a couple bolts.
Good luck with it and enjoy. Certainly seems odd if it's never seen a second. There is that ultimate frisbee route which might be this climb but that description makes it sound like it's in the UFC alcove. I don't know how else you could be a west facing wall and be on same canyon side as UFC.
The Doctor always told me that thing had been done before. I stumbled upon it in '96. I went up there the next time I could get a willing partner. Thinking I had done the first ascent, I called it The Beauty, a name that made it in to Bloom's "Castles in the Sand" guidebook. I don't think he gave me credit for the first ascent, however.
Anyway, I just got off the phone with Pencilenvy and told him about the two bolt anchor I put on a sloping ledge out right. Its about a 130' pitch and I used triple #1, #2, & #3 camalots (wished I had brought a #4). I called Pencilenvy a wuss for not getting to my anchors. But I take it back, you don't run it out on this rock like you do on granite.
pk & Grossman, you guys are psycho, I'm not sure what lies up above the first pitch even qualifies as "rock". Nice route, a real beauty . . .
Take me back home
There is nothin fair in this world
There is nothin safe in this world
And theres nothin sure in this world
And theres nothin pure in this world
Look for something left in this world
Its a nice day for a white wedding
Its a nice day to start again.
Its a nice day for a white wedding
That's the beauty of a lot of the Sedona routes, no fixed gear means you can find yourself having a first ascent adventure.
I recall running into Dave Houchin at a bean fest once and him telling me about the time they did Sand Castle. They thought they were bagging a classic first ascent until they topped out on the OW of pitch 2 and came upon a fixed baby at the belay ledge. He was bummed. I told him the great thing was that he'd gotten to do the climb as if it were a first ascent. I'll have to scan slides of that climb. It's truly memorable and safe. There are other climbs in Castles in the Sand that have erroneous names and FA parties. I suspect it'll all get cleaned up with the new guide.
Glad to know WW now has a belay. Certainly a worthy one pitch climb and if one is feeling a bit psycho, there's the second pitch to lead. We pretty much had no choice but to go for the rim.
Thnx for the pic Sr. E. Clears up my confusion.
Definitely some very distinctive routes in Pumphouse.
Actually Paul, here’s the history of the Ultimate Dihedral:
Jim Haisley and I put in the baby angles on the mossy traverse and climbed the first pitch not too long after we stole the Ultimate Finger Crack from you. Back in those days we considered it an uncompleted climb if you didn’t go to the top, so we came back with Stan Mish and added 2 more pitches to the rim. I remember Stan leading a super sketchy pitch with bad pro and worse rock. It didn’t seem to faze him in the least. I’m sure those pitched have never been repeated.
We didn’t name it the Ultimate Dihedral either; John Madsen and Dow Davis called it that after finding it later that summer. I’m can’t remember what its real name is, probably Dyno Honers from Outerspace.
Some more route info fishing.....
At one of the banquets early on, a bunch of us went climbing in Sedona. Herb North and I picked out a striking offwidth route and Fig and Dave Baker started up a line to the left and got stopped. I went over and finished that one too. The right one was named True Grit, if I recall, and I can't remember the left one.
DB and Fig didn't make very many gatherings so the timeframe is pretty narrow. I can't even recall the area location!?!
Another vagary...Larry, what did that one drilled angle route near the Mace finally get named. You were reading a book about the Hell's Angels at the time so I proposed Kickstart Spire?!?
Funny that you asked about that- I just finished scanning some of these. Below- you are correct that Toula has them reversed: True Grit climbs the main corner a ways, then swings boldly around the arete and into the bottomless dihedral to the left.
And I like the name Kickstart Spire (summit of Dodger below)- it's boringly named the Coats-Grossman route in the guide. Note the chunk missing from my hammer handle- I believe you blew it up drilling the rappel bolts in your typical three blows!
Well, I chatted with Jim Haisley recently and he was the mystery belayer on A Shot in the Dark on the Sine wall. His recollections about the route matched mine. Notning but a few RPs and some thin, hard face climbing on a flat portion of the wall. Jim recalls 5.11ish difficulty. Left side of the Sine Wall if I recall correctly and it likely hasn't been lead again.
steve- that's cheating!hahaha we know you can send em' it's when others are not willing to venture up that truely makes a statment!! ( not that your trying to prove anything- just your inherantly bold style!!)cheers! edit- cool got to be the 420 post!
I just returned from a trip to find your email waiting. My apologies, apparently I gave you incorrect information. When I made the database from Bob's climbing diaries we checked and rechecked to look for errors. We didn't find them all. After reading the note on ST about the 30th being a Wednesday I checked the original diary entry. Bob had written 12-26. That wasn't a Sunday either. The actual date must have been December 27th as that WAS a Sunday. He gives the date for their Shiprock North Summit as 12-30. His early climbing diaries were put together from memory, a few records and some correspondence. There were many ommisions and dates were nearly impossible to reconstruct. But it is possible to pinpoint this one because we know Yvon missed the climb because he went to Mass. I thought you might enjoy seeing Bob's diary entry for an earlier trip to Oak Creek with Don Wilson, his climbing mentor.
Other (chimney) pics were Guillotine Flake (5.7) over on the right side just past Grody Coyote area. Did that a couple weekends ago just to knock it off. Last route I had left to do up there easier than 9+. Was sort of interesting in a chimneyish sort of a way. Personally, I think a true 5.7 leader would see God on that route, but that's the Mountain. :-)
I always thought Coke Bottle was a really good route too. Gotta love those 50 foot runouts if you don't have a #23 Friend.
Steve- did you ever do the chimney/offwidth at the top of Coke Bottle that most people bail out before? i did that in order to top out on the buttress and it remains some of the most difficult climbing i've ever done.
Pate, do you mean the Hump Crack? 5.10 fist over bulge to ow. Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals. Short, but full of the goods. Like the last bit of Cinnamon Girl. Inconspicuous little corner after the perfect handcrack at the top of Sorcerer/Kingpin. Step (way big) left and start crankin. I did it yesterday for the first time in a long while. PUMPER especially greasing in the sun. The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet.
Ahh the Mountain.
bob- it's the ow that you can squeeze your whole body into, i did it facing out and desperately arm barring and knee barring. i slid a #4 camelot up with me, my only piece of gear. i took almost an hour to get up it, literally a few inches at a time. got covered in blood and lichen. at the top i was frozen for a long time, for me i had to completlye turn around and reach out for a jug with my right hand. totally terrifying.
i never saw eye to eye with rusty-in fact had words with him a few times- but it was one of my prouder moments in prescott when he approached me after hearing i'd led it and told me it was "some of the hardest climbing at the mountain-the kind that is un-rateable". had i known this i never woulda done it.
i recommend it heartily to any one who is going up there.
I seriously doubt the bolts on Cinnamon Girl have been replaced. There hasn't been a lot of bolt replacing going on up there that I know of. I was thinking I'd try to get up there to fix up a few routes this season and CG was on the list. What other routes besides this would you consider next on any list of routes to be rebolted?
Cinnamon Girl has bad bolts but c'mon folks your gonna die anyways. Just don't fall on that thing. Its easy 9. The top crack is not 10. Harder, but then again, its 10.
Most of the routes on the right side either have new bolts, or were put up recent enough to have good enough bolts.
A big justice would be Cinnamon Girl I guess for the head, also the last pitch of Tom Thumb would be service for sure. Don't know about Ed W's route Thin Ice. Not Thin Slice, that's got new bolts. Thin Ice I believe only had pins and only has one BAD one now.
Pate, from the sounds of it I think maybe you are thinking of the top pitch of Granite Jungle. Its rad OW and pretty burly if done wrong. Not wrong, just done a certain way. That corner system is one giant one over from the coke Bottle corner. Delphinia Lightening Ass, Dream Weaver start there as well. What a great pitch that Granite Jungle. 9+++++++++ or 5.8.
The Girdle has been all rebolted............Rusty B. rap anchor after the traverse on Once in a Blue Moon to get down to the ledge below the 9 face pitch of Kingpin, but if you want to free it in the rating range ya gotta down climb that pitch of Kingpin to the ledge then head over to Candyland. My bud and I did it that way. Boy the seconder has quite a lead on their hands. The high route goes for sure, but @ 11. It will go. It will go. Go Go.
Lotta nice bolts on those old routes now. Not all, but quite a few. Sheet, Dream Weaver has a new bolt on the last pitch. Still have to crux out with barely any gear before you get to it, but........I think its a bit lower than it used to be, but heads up!
No more pins on Whiteout. Just two bolts at the beginning. Those went in along time ago. Way changed the nature of those first moves. Once in a Blue Moon sprouted a bolt on the 10 traverse pitch. Sometimes I clip it, sometimes I don't. Depends on the day.
bob j. on lunch.
ps. Bill I'd like to do some of that stuff with ya if you have time.
that's right bob- dreamweaver. a slabbycorner for the second pitch i think led to a huge ledge with bushes on it. it's been 15 years..... what was the "right way"? facing in or out? i had big bros, but they all slid out!
"I want to know how a line like Sword Of Damocles can be rated anywhere near 5.11. it's a 35 foot climb in a choss-heap canyon that is best top-roped. rusty baillie ratings are not to be trusted, or sprayed about."