Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 2, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
I think I had one picture here somewhere...now where did that darn thing go?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 2, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
I think I've only climbed at Camelback in Phoenix.
I'm missing out huh...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 2, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
Too bad Arizona is so close to California;.....

MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
There it is - - Yeah, Todd, if it were Ohio, well...

The Doctor on a recent FA:



HiDesertDJ on a second ascent at Le Petit Verdon:



Dreaded Dresdoom:



Into The Wild, 10 pitch arete:




Cody At The Doctor's Office:




PennsylEnvy at The Doctor's Office:




Clayman on the Mace slackline:



My FA of Sun Dogs:



Ok, now I'm being NAZcentric...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 2, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
But it's a dry heat....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 2, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
In Arizona, it's illigal for donkeys to sleep in bathtubs....

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 2, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
Except for the Beardsley boulders, and the Bolus, and that new route I never finished at So mtn, Az bites.
well maybe The forks, and supes, (Esp greater Zonerland/land of Nod),and the mine area, Jaccuzi spire, Pinnacle peak (esp deliverance) And the forks and the Draw, and other parts of the Mcdowells where they still allow climbing, and various hush-hush areas along the Mogollon Rim, and Jacks, and the pit, Canyon Diablo, Walnut canyon, the Granite Dells, Granite Mountain, Mt Lemon, the Stronghold, Sedona, the overlook, the winslow wall, that stuff by stafford(?), all kinds of weird sh!t in the Desert, the Grand Canyon, the rez, and a bunch of places I have forgoten, really, what is there?
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
Dec 3, 2008 - 12:36am PT
Todd,

that's a good laugh. As always great pictures. I think I can add to this thread. Viva Arizona!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 12:51am PT
In Arizona, seatbelts make pretty good branding irons....



People put on jackets when it gets below 95 degrees.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 12:55am PT
In Arizona, hot water comes out of both taps...



In Arizona;...the trees whistle for the dogs...

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Dec 3, 2008 - 12:59am PT
Guidebook prehype detected.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:02am PT
Arizona uniform;...shorts, sandals, and a tank top;....(year round)

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:14am PT
In Arizona;..your car overheats before you start it up....(that was the last one....)







Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:24am PT
S.Powers

Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:25am PT
If i get the gig in AZ id love to get out and climb some of that!!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:27am PT


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:32am PT


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:38am PT
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:48am PT
This thread has legs...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:50am PT
I wanna see pictures of the Superstitions.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 3, 2008 - 02:10am PT





Cilley on Improbability drive, Granite Mtn, attempt;








Richard shoup, native 'zonie (I think) @ the Bolus, Camelback,Phx





Raypole working on something almost near Crown King, or somewhere





Steve Smelser, and some guy who used to have too many portaledges,
@PBC#4




Alobar





at the time of this shot these guys (yo, y Dennis McMahon) were 'Zonies, though this is slightly north of the border, behind the Zion curtain; on top of Moses


Somewhere near the North Rim

Couple of 'Zonies stirring it up in Josh,


Natalie ( A native Pheonician) and Alobar two weeks after moving to Galena Nevada from Tempe;


Zillions more awaiting hosting...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:44am PT






Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:55am PT




steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:36am PT
Here ya go Tarbuster... Superstitions...







steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:37am PT
Granite Mountain - best crag in the US that nearly nobody goes to.





SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:38am PT
And don't forget, AZ now has the top sushiman,
Nature again!
Woo hoo!!!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:44am PT
Coffeepot Rock, Sedona

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:46am PT
Paradise Forks...







steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:48am PT
Queen Creek...

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:51am PT
Mount Lemmon...





steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 09:04am PT
Pinnacle Peak...





Mike.

climber
Dec 3, 2008 - 09:38am PT
AyZee Rocks! Great pix, you guys.

I recall driving to JT and thinking "why?"
I recall driving to Yosemite and thinking "why....live in AZ?"

I still love AZ and its diverse climbing. It was a great place to get a toehold on climbing; we came to Tahquitz and everything seemed soft. We saw El Cap for the first time and ran the F away in horror.


Hope you're having fun with the book, E&D!
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Dec 3, 2008 - 09:50am PT
so Jay, was the photo with Alobar w/ frisbee in the mouth the one time he was not barking while awake?

Klondyke is the wall near safford, an ultra steep version of Granite mountain. There is more rock in the range (santa teresas) than Joshua Tree but takes hours to get to any of it.

to all the others, 99% of my stuff is on slides and I have nothing cool to post.



MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 09:57am PT
Thanks Mike!

Great pictures, everyone!

Lake Watson Dells:



Elcapinyoazz at Mt Lemmon:



Nature at Mt. Lemmon:



The Crew:



Jacks shots:





Isolation aka Manny's Playground:



Mike and Dave at Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold:



Amazing concentration of excellent climbing at Paradise Forks:



Busy Winter day at The Planetarium:


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 10:10am PT


east side underground

Trad climber
crowley ca
Dec 3, 2008 - 10:49am PT
I love the stronghold! wish I had a scanner since my pics are so oldschool. Magnus coloradas
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 3, 2008 - 10:49am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 3, 2008 - 11:37am PT
You got lots of friends Murry.....unless you did something unfortunate with your hairstyle again!!

Great thread! Time to go dig into the old slidebox!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 3, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
Note 5.11 OW in the shadow on S-monk's Coffeepot rock shot.





Clearly Rick remembers Alobar (first dog in the Labyrinth).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
I gotta get out to the Superstitions.
No wait, Granite Mountain first...

This thread needs more pictures.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
Tar - A comparison for ya...

Granite Mountain is a world class area, with wonderful rock, awesome cracks and gorgeous natural lines up to around 450 feet. Only open between July 15th and Feb. 1st each year because of falcon nesting bans. It was even named one of the top ten crags in the US in an issue of Mountain Magazine (1985?).

The Superstitions are world class desert beautiful, with roaring silence, questionable rock (most places), 30+ year old bolts, and adventure climbing up to five pitches or so. Open year round. Bolting absolutely prohibited.

Not pimping either place too hard as I love climbing in either for somewhat different reasons. I'd give you the tour of either place. Come on down!

J-brah: I have a much closer shot of that offwidth, although drawing the line at actually having been in it yet.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
Yes nice comparisons, which I fairly well gathered...
'Would love to sort some things out here at home and get on down there with you.
Thanks for the invite!!!

Cheers,
Roy
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
This thread needs more pictures...
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
I need to get a scanner. I'll see if I can do some uploading at work.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
Arizona is an amazing place.. And you should be totally greatful MisterE...

Great shots, amazing shots!!!

Thank you for taking me there, if only in my mind!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 3, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
The Steel Monk speaks truth Roy. Just the supes & GM would be enough, if you're down with heat.

Paradise Forks is your kind of place,

and the wind cried, Tarby...
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
TarBaby asked for it...

My next .11 project:



Chillin' in the constant shade of the Doctor's Office in July



All the "Free Refills" you can handle, The Pharmacy:




Secret Canyon! Don't tell anybody.



Sometimes the approach is an early crux:





Sure makes a cold one taste good at the end of the day:



Amazing hidden walls of rock:



and beautiful views from many climbing areas

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 3, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
Serious wood, on that third one.
mottaaa

Trad climber
tucson
Dec 3, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
summit Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon

summit Table Dome, Mendoza

Elephant Dome

Potatoe Dome or "the potatoe", the bullet is to the right i believe
nature

climber
Somewhere else....
Dec 3, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
Oh come on E! The place is a choss pile... north, south, east, or west it's all junk.

I giggle when I think about the fact that I'm back in this state. I was up on Mt. Lemmon Sunday.

Come on down and visit and keep me company!


I'll post some picts soon.... I think I have one or two around somewhere...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 3, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
Isn't that the Ev Mecham state? Why go there?
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
Nature said:
"Oh come on E! The place is a choss pile... north, south, east, or west it's all junk."

As a friend in the North cascades once said:

"Fine climbing for anyone not offended by loose rock."

Then I came up with "Chossaneering"

Fun, fun, fun!

You got a place yet down there? The Doctor and I, (and maybe Pennsylenvy) may come down for a visit...

taorock

Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
Dec 3, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
They let all sorts climb in Arizona.

Crazy



Magical



Mutant Strong



Crimp Masters



Artists



People with Bad Hair



Wildman



Those who can lock off way low



Even former Californians

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
Better watch out you dial-uppers!
Buncha stuff all over the place.































steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 3, 2008 - 10:14pm PT
A few more...I owed Tarbuster some Supes shots...

Peralta Canyon


Crying Dinosaur - free hanging rappel


Vertigo Spire


Weavers Needle with clouds


Zebra Agave


Carney Springs Wall


Razor's Edge - The Hand


Barks Canyon Wall


Another shot from Razor's Edge on The Hand - climber on the third pitch.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
Oh yes! The Superstitions!!!
I am wriggling in ecstasy.

Yes Jay: Paradise Forks is a no-brainer.
But, por moi, that was before "the problem" surfaced.

And shoot, then there's the matter of the Stronghold...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
And lest we forget things of general importance,
Arizona: that's where the Boss be hangin'...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
Seems like this thread could use...
some more pictures.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 4, 2008 - 12:04am PT
Nice stuff Todd & Steel! Fine assortment of stone in AZ.
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 12:16am PT
Manny deep-water soloing



and room-mate Mike showing proper descent technique:



Clear Creek, Winslow AZ



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 4, 2008 - 12:27am PT
That last photo looks like preparation for the screaming belly flop from hell!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 4, 2008 - 02:06am PT



Fig bouldering in the Cochise Stronghold.


Dave Baker and I at the base of Cripple Creek on the Pharaoh, early seventies.


Sparsely protected bridging on the FA of Devoid which starts from the north end of the Inner Passage and summits on Chay Desa Tsay. This wild route comes out of the notch shown below on the left and climbs the steep headwall to finish.



Photo from Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona, 1991.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 4, 2008 - 02:07am PT
















Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 4, 2008 - 02:23am PT


drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 4, 2008 - 02:28am PT
Thanks a lot everyone for all the unreal photos. Makes me proud to be a Zoner. More Grossman shots please (Cripple Creek aint no weenie roast!)
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 4, 2008 - 02:37am PT
..must turn away,
before S-monk,
and others,
draw me back in...
left forever (more or less) in '92.
But I've only been to isolation once,
and it was a new century,
It wouldn't hurt just to go back,
a little
would it?

And while I was there, I could...







Whatever happened to Fig?
JMC

climber
Tucson
Dec 4, 2008 - 09:14am PT

Jaybro flash bump - 10 feet away from finding out how friggin' hard and weird Matricide is (filed away under teh "skeletons in the closet" folder.)


Mark on the Tombstone @ Cochise. Can't remember the name.


Arete on the Tombstone. Stiletto Arete I think? Goes up the right skyline of the previous picture.


Ram V. 5 feet of the ground at Middle Earth (Lemmon). Good lines here, though the rock always felt like it was seeping water. Waited out a monster T-Storm underneath The Breeze one day, then hiked out at warp speed over the lightning-rod ridge (2 people ended up drowning in Sabino Canyon during that storm.)


Pusch Peak. A good route by Jeff Mayhew on the thumb in the middle. Lot of untouched choss in the background.


Best for last - Mendoza Canyon. Meg on pitch 2, realizing that Elephantiasis is as serious as we thought it would be. Outstanding route, probably the best thing I climbed in my 2 years in Tucson. Runners-up would be Brian Benedon's routes in Pima Canyon and Table Mtn.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 4, 2008 - 09:45am PT








Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 4, 2008 - 09:54am PT










emac

climber
New Hampshire
Dec 4, 2008 - 10:19am PT
The Superstitions


From Grandfather Hobgoblin (borrowed from Eric Horst)::


Arizona Flyway on Mt. Lemmon:


Cat Scratch, or some "Cat" name 5.11 arete by AZ Flyways:


The Oasis:


Goose Head at Mt. Lemmon:


Knights of the Wrong Tissue at Mt. Lemmon:


Another from Knights (borrowed from Eric Horst):
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 11:20am PT
Bump:







dengar

Trad climber
Ottawa, Canada
Dec 4, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
That's it I'm moving.....

can't stand the snow anymore :(

Dennis
nature

climber
Somewhere else....
Dec 4, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
dengar.... that's what I'm screaming.... or was!

I get to wear my flip-flops today.... and tomorrow... and next month.
Mike.

climber
Dec 4, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
Holy compendium, thanks for all the sah-weet shots!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 4, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
They have pretty harsh winters in Alb-Q?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
Winter is harsh here.
I had to go mountain biking yesterday and it was ONLY 74 degrees!!!
Positively barbarian!!

Anyways... a little bump for the AZ love.

Syzygy, Overlook


Amateur Hour, Overlook


Isaiah, Overlook


5.10 start to Isaiah, Overlook


Terminal Vector, The Pit


Purple Shark, The Pit


Mr. Slate, The Pit


Coyote Tower, Sedona


Coyote Tower, Sedona


Dr. Rubos Wild Ride, Sedona


Al Steck on The Mace (@ the crux)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Last round...

Loafer's Choice, Pinnacle Peak


Brian in SLC on the South Crack, Pinnacle Peak, right before we nearly got "baned" for not getting out by 6pm (see watch).


Hard Drivin', Tom's Thumb


Look But Don't Touch, Tom's Thumb


Some route at The Pond, Queen Creek


Pocket Party, The Pond, Queen Creek


Lower Devil's Canyon


Big pit in the ground... I mean Oak Flat, Queen Creek


Tommy Caldwell at the last PBC, Queen Creek


FA at the Promised Land, Chino Valley
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 4, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
All ah Ya'all:
!!! What an outstanding run of SuperPhotos™

I don't have any pictures of Arizona.
But I just snapped this picture looking outside my kitchen window:




... now explain to me again why all you's are in AZ?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
Current temp... 4:30.
A little cold, but we'll manage somehow...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 4, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
oh oh oh!!!
I climbed... I mean CRUSHED this route with my bare hands:




Will it still be there when I thaw out?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 4, 2008 - 07:07pm PT
yeah, we all got troubles, they still allow temps as high as 74º there? Yikes!

Nice stuff Greg, glad to see some purple shark love.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
It's not all fun and games... I think we broke our record for days over 110 degrees this year again. That just gets ridiculous after a while.

Tar - that sucka should be there whenever you're ready to pull down.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 4, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
I want to play, Nothing like the above pics but...







Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 5, 2008 - 04:07am PT








Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 5, 2008 - 04:29am PT
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
I had the good fortune to live in Sierra Vista for 18 months and the Stronghold was my local area, ony 45 minutes to the Sheepshead parkig lot - Happy days. Once I figure how to upload photos, then I'll do so...........

Steve

Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
So lets see if this works,

Here's the finger flake pitch on Abracadver....

Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Eureka,

So firstthe crack leading up to the finger flake on Abra, Courtney Phillips leading...


Looking down the first pitch of Peacemaker on the Sheepshead..



The dinner plates on the Wasteland,



The first pitch of Cragaholics Dream...



More to come







Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 05:38pm PT
Somewhere on The Wily Javelina..


Looking Down the Long runout 5.6 pitch on the South Face of Whale Dome...



Seconding Pitch 2 on Dem Bones...




Pitch 2ish, on Whats My Line...




Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
Some of Warpaint... Pitch four perhaps



and Looking down pitch five...



The descent into the bowels of the Rockfellows ater Days of Future Past....



High on the Sheepshead is a particulalry fine and exposed slab pitch....



And last a view of the magnificent Rockfellow Group - a hidden gem...



Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Dec 5, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
Two of Stampede on The Sheepshead; looking down pitch one...



And pitch two, the San Pedro valley and Huachuca mountains in the distance...

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 5, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
Blakey - love the photos, but can you resize those big thread-buster pictures?
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
Bump for the recent:

today, 12/05/08 - a couple of good shots:



sweatyballs

Trad climber
Dec 5, 2008 - 11:09pm PT
Here are some images from an ascent (we did it two years ago) of the Odyssey on the Acropolis of the Superstitions. Pretty Epic place.... loose, run out, Bushwack.

Enjoy,Mike Esparza



















Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 5, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
From Summit Nov 1968 an account of the first big wall climb in AZ. My first one too, way back in highschool.







Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
Dec 5, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
This is only a test, if successful more to come....




MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
Nice pin...

Nothing to see here..just a lot of loose rock...
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
Dec 6, 2008 - 01:10am PT
O.K. this is like a mini trip report from the last two days. Yesterday, I met up with Elma who was looking for a climbing partner on TOS. She is from Switzerland and was visiting family in Phoenix. I suggested we meet in Sedona.

.

Our first objective 'Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride' a classic Sedona moderate



Always a bit of yucca on a good Sedona climb.



Elma was a great sport and would put up with me pestering her to smile for the camera.







O.K.

so today we climbed another great Sedona climb 'Mars Attacks!'

The first pitch is cool friction



I stoked Elma up for leading the 2nd pitch traverse. A really great pitch!



She did fantastic...







Sedona can be very peaceful also





Ahhh where's a gud beer thread when you need one?

Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Le' Bia
Dec 6, 2008 - 01:16am PT
More to come.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 02:43am PT


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 02:46am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:25am PT








Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:38am PT












Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:56am PT


















Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 05:15am PT


rick d

climber
tucson, az
Dec 6, 2008 - 09:33am PT



3rd pitch of "luca and the fishes" 5.9x A.2+, east face babo first ascent fall 1989 (so this is post glass legs) yours leading, waugh at the 4 hour belay (only 66' off deck). You can see how weird the rock type is- I always compared it to french bread. A hook here, a head there, a pin there, couple hooks, a bashie in an eye socket...not straight forward at all.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 6, 2008 - 12:05pm PT


Shitty shot, great route: First free ascent, Coatamundi Whiteout, Granite Mountain (1978??)

We did another route there called Gunsmoke that was quite a pumper on Hexes. No shots, unfortunately.

JL
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Dec 6, 2008 - 12:15pm PT

Cochise local...


Species Greenus Poopus Eatus, found only in AZ


Arizona pro


Another AZ local
bob

climber
Dec 6, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 6, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
Hey Bob. E mail me. Jefe Bret Harte
The Mountain IS special.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
A little Prescott mood music from BITD.

Please don't dominate the rap, jack, if youve got nothing new to say.
If you please, don't back up the track this trains got to run today.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
I heard someone say better run away, others say better stand still.

Now I don't know, but I been told its hard to run with the weight of gold,
Other hand I have heard it said, its just as hard with the weight of lead.

Who can deny, who can deny, its not just a change in style?
One step down and another begun and I wonder how many miles.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
Things went down we dont understand, but I think in time we will.
Now, I don't know but I was told in the heat of the sun a man died of cold.
Keep on coming or stand and wait, with the sun so dark and the hour so late.
You can't overlook the lack, jack, of any other highway to ride.
Its got no signs or dividing lines and very few rule to guide.

I saw things getting out of hand, I guess they always will.
Now I don't know but I been told
If the horse dont pull you got to carry the load.
I don't know whose backs that strong, maybe find out before too long.

One way or another, one way or another,
One way or another, this darkness got to give.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
From Jim Waugh's Guide to Granite Mountain, 1982.





What a plum at 5.11-!!!!!
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
DAMN, Grossman drops some Dead on us! HEY NOW!
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
S.G. should recognize this quote-

"From every street and corner in Tucson we see the mountains...But of all the peaks and ranges that keep their sentinel posts around the Old Pueblo there are none so bold in the outlines of their granite heights and rugged canyons, so exquisitely beautiful in their soft colors of red and blue and purple, or so luring in the call of their remote and hidden fastness, as the Santa Catalinas." Harold Bell Wright, 1923
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 6, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
Fickeroo™ style bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
Where did you come across that HBW quote?
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 6, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
Grossman- The quote came from the '85 Steiger guide to Mt. Lemmon and Sabino Canyon.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Dec 6, 2008 - 07:10pm PT



Dave Stephens on Ganja - 12d @ The Homestead
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Dec 6, 2008 - 07:13pm PT

Matt Hulet on Ground Effects - 11c @ The Homestead
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Dec 6, 2008 - 07:14pm PT

Sally on Slow Poke - 11a @ The Homestead
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Dec 6, 2008 - 07:15pm PT

Louie Anderson on Speedy Gonzales - 11d @ The Homestead
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
Man, I SO want to go to the Homestead!

It's one of the undones on my Arizona checklist.

Thanks for the pics - the drive in sounds rough...
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 6, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
--------


Hi Bob:

No preplacement - how would you do so on that arch, anyhow.

Right after Coatamundi Whiteout, I looked at Jump Back Jack Crack (looked stout) but we went for the new route instead - Gunsmoke.

Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.

Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.

We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker.

Wonder how folks do that thing these days with good shoes and a rack full of cams. Maybe it's only 5.11 after all.

Wish I could have stayed longer and bagged some other plumbs, but we only had the weekend. I thought Coat. Whit. was a fine route and the crag was a gem.

I always thought that Arizona had some of the greatest climbing and summits in America. I've always been jealous of the guys who first bagged all those desert spires and also of Todd Gordon who lived out there and climbed all that cool obscure stuff.

JL
bob

climber
Dec 6, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
Largo, I had five #4 Camalots (5 years ago) and a smaller friend. I believe it was a #4. Just went out across and got pumped. Was doing quite well until the last Camalot proved to have a trigger wire that wanted to break right then and there. I managed to stuff a foot and part of a leg up there, got the damn thing in and gunned it, but surely not like you gunned it. My buddy Jake followed and pulled it off frozen stiff. Hilarious. I thought that just once I might have the chance to see him fall on something I led clean. Nope. Not then, not ever. I'm so bad.
Thanks for the story!
Bob J.
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Dec 6, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
largo-

Steve Byrne said that Gunsmoke would be 11+ if you ran out the last 35'- he made the first onsight of the route in the mid 1980's- of course he had his own Wired Bliss #5's to protect it.

as for the coati roof, you beat Jim Waugh by only a few weeks- he was very sad about your visit. Thing is, Reveley and Greene were up at the roof their last day on '76 but got too cold in T-shirts and shorts and bailed off then walked out. They certainly were strong enough to do the roof...
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
Todd: All those pics remind me of Rob Slater...RIP

Thanks for all the great posts and history.

Look for the NEW NORTHERN ARIZONA GUIDEBOOK coming soon (sadly discluding most of Todd's mostly-illegal-now ascents) to you - hopefully may or June if we can get it all together.

Big party at Vertical Relief in Flagstaff!

There, Greg, you have your rightness. It was, ultimately, a plug for our guide.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Dec 7, 2008 - 02:24am PT
Jensen- Jake Whittaker?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 7, 2008 - 03:26am PT
Bow down......

bob

climber
Dec 7, 2008 - 11:07am PT
HDDJ,

Yup it was Jake Whittaker and I. (Jensen) To add a bit to this adventure, he arrived at the belay frozen, but with mission in mind he set off on Once Upon a Time's 12a corner. He onsighted it through two (yes 2!) mini snow/ice storms, complete with incsane wind. I'm pretty sure he was on lead for at least 1/2 an hour. So, he became too cold to keep heading up the route and I reached the point of not being able to hold on to a belay device because I was literally frozen. I felt so good after Gunsmoke then all the cold set into my sweaty clothes. OH MAN I have never been that cold at Granite Mountain and I've spent a LOT of time up there cold.
Such great memories.
Bob J. on morning coffee.
originalpmac

Trad climber
Dec 7, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
i learned how to climb in AZ. the Dells in Prescott, upper and lower Sully's, Granite Mountain, Paradise Forks, GTroom Creek Boulders. all good places
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 7, 2008 - 04:07pm PT


On the Coatamundi Traverse, only 5.10b but at the time there were only tied-off pins to protect the crux bit off the belay. Don't ping . . .

Anyhow, TODD, where are all those shots of climbing those super slender desert needles? Like Cleopatras and others. Man, those spires look like the shizat. And how about climbing those big arches in Arches Nat. Park. Like Rainbow and Landscape (what a trip walking across that one!) and others.

JL
bob

climber
Dec 7, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
Stiff 10b traverse Mr. Long. Is it like in Jtree where the boulder problem start doesn't show in the rating? Those pins got swiped out and now sports two GIANT bolts. RIght there at the start of the traverse. The head aspect of that climb is lost. Still a hell of a climb. My buddy and I did Sorcerer to that traverse and I fell just at the lip. Damn!!!!!! Such good stuff. Memorieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees.
Great picks of that route have popped up here and there.
Bob J.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 7, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
I think that traverse gets 11a in the latest guide.

When I was up there last year climbing Coatimundi-Candyland, these two YSLs (Young Strong Local) were up there. Got to watch their antics from a nice seat below the Great Roof. First guy goes up and leads out to the corner where the crack going up is found. He sets a piece and lowers down to a small ledge directly below where there is a bolt for Once Upon A Time. His partner comes across the traverse, and when he's at the corner, he lowers down as well. Then the first guy goes back up to pull the corner of the roof. Guess they don't like rope drag.


Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 7, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
Fortunately I had Manny rope gun it for me, I didn't weight the rope but I was glad to have it coming from above; pretty darn exposed and insecure, if you ask me!
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Dec 7, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
Cleopatra's, Venus's and a couple of others nearby are actually in New Mexico. They are just a little North of where I-40 crosses over into Arizona.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 7, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
I can't remember sh#t about that route for some reason so I have the ratings wrong - not trying to sandbag.

Sure didn't know that Cleopatras and all those needles were in New Mex.

JL
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 7, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
I got to ropegun Manny on Gunsmoke though, full adventure for each of us!

Hats off doing that on hexes, Largo! we had #4 friends, state of the art back then...
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Dec 7, 2008 - 10:57pm PT
I walked across Landscape Arch when I was in high school in 1973? It was not very hard to get on top, I did it with a non-climber friend. We walked over and back and got back down the same way we came up, on the South side. I wouldn't do it now for fear of the law!

edit: also the law of gravity, since that giant chunk fell off of it a few years ago.

edit squared: That traverse looks unbeleivabley thin! It must be gripping to both lead and follow! Yikes!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
As wide as Gunsmoke looks, how did Lynn do following it? Plenty of excitement on both ends of the rope.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 8, 2008 - 04:04am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 8, 2008 - 04:36am PT
Largo;...you can't beat this sort of sh#t for novelty, strangeness, fun, and just earth's oddball freaks;.......some of the best adventures on the planet, aren't they....(yeah;...I left out the pics of Cleo and stuff, as they are in New Mex......but Arizona is awesome and the tits on the bull.....) Soloed across this arch "secretly" at about 6 AM on morning all by myself......it was like walking on a granite sidewalk, suspended in space.....300 feet long, 150 high, and 5 feet thick in the middle.....

NOT IN ARIZONA

Landscape Arch, Utah.......






Also not in Arizona

Ring Arch, Arches, Utah


Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 8, 2008 - 04:47am PT
Not in Arizona.
Cleopatra's Needle, N.M.

Skinniest spire on Earth



steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 8, 2008 - 08:28am PT
But Todd, you can just ride over them...

rick d

climber
tucson, az
Dec 8, 2008 - 08:38am PT
ok, back to Arizona (and Granite Mountain).

Who here has done Sorcerer?
Jason Sands got the first onsight and Suzuki the second.

I've only talked to one other guy who has done it (other than Waugh and Ficker).

...The Granite Mountain test piece- 3 cruxes, rope stretcher pitch w/ all gear and all techniques needed.

and other photos
an arizona tower


climbin it


at the forks


babo once more

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 8, 2008 - 08:42am PT
Someone's been on Sorcerer this year... there was a rope left on it the last couple times I was up there. Bad form.
S.Powers

Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
Dec 8, 2008 - 08:56am PT
What an awesome thread!
bob

climber
Dec 8, 2008 - 11:06am PT
I've done it. Hard 11+ or was it the bird sh#t factor through fairly hard climbing that made it so stiff? Really though, my bud and I got beat a bit on it until we reached the stance. Then............we were scared. I guess technically we did the "yo-yo" thing. We sat on the ledge contemplating gunning it above on the stems. We both wanted to do, but my bud wanted it more. (whew!) He punched it and I followed clean.
I talked to quite a few people who have done it or at least given it a go. I'm pretty sure I heard a story from Rusty of Steve Deickoff (sp) taking some screamers off that thing back in the day.
Incredible line for sure.
Another absolutely kick-ass free climb up there is The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. That is big wall free climbing on a little ol' crag in AZ. The moves are so good along with the positioning out on wall left of the Flying Buttress. I recommend this route to anyone...........aiding or freeing it.
Bob J. on morning coffee
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 8, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
A little off topic but . . . that Landscape Arch is one of the freakiest and most outrageous rock formations I have ever seen. We walked in along the ridge to the right, did a short rap to a ledge and from there we could walk right out onto the arch. Walking out along that skinny dude is easy but super weird and spooky. We (Brother Bob Gaines) and I snuck our way onto a stack of those arches. I had a baseball with parachuted cord attached and tried hucking that over a few of the arches but it never worked (I was going to drag a bigger line over via the parachute cord).

Back to Granite Mountain, I looked at the Sorcerer when we were thre and thought it looked probable but would be real stiff. Hey, has anyone recently led Jump Back Jack Crack? That looks serious.
JL
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 8, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
Haven't heard of, or seen, anyone leading Jump Back lately. Amazing accomplishment for 1972. Sometime in the last five years, I was doing the descent hike down off the east end and came on a couple of guys giving it a go on toprope. The poor sod tied in at the time was bloody from knees to elbows, but game to give it another go and switching from the left side option over to the right side. Don't know how he fared after that...

Not totally sure, but I think this pic of Jump Back Jack Crack came from the '73 Lovejoy guide:



nuts

climber
az
Dec 8, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
Also a nice shot of another classic Easy Chair to the right of Jumpback Crack
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 8, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
Easy Chair... another candidate for hardest "5.8" on the planet. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 8, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
Okay, we've faded off the front page... lets get this party re-started.

Guy on the second pitch of Waterstreak Delight (10b), approaching the crux moves.


Guy leading out to the corner on Coatimundi Whiteout. Got a cam in the roof but he's about the lower off it to a bolt below.


Climber seconding the traverse on Coatimundi. Not much to stand on.


Still working on it...


And nearly out to the end (where he lowers down to his buddy).


Looking up into a business on Coatimundi from nearby Kingpin.


Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 8, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
Rick D, and I 'jumped back' circa '90, maybe he remembers the date. It was the day we did Improbability Drive. A single nine mil, minimal gear, epic (falling didn't seem an option) was involved. I removed a biner I'd left on a bolt when Raypole and I had been rained off maybe 4 years earlier. I don't think it gets much traffic.
bob

climber
Dec 8, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
I've spent a lot of time up at Granite Mountain when a lot of people didn't know I was there. In that time I've seen two parties on Jump Back Jack. One time it was one of the Coats brothers as I talked with Scott Baxter on the front porch. Scott Baxter! That guy, in one conversation, allowed me the vision that there is tons to do no matter what, everywhere. You just have to look. I think that was 95 or 96. Not certain at all. So, the next time I see Scott Baxter I'm walking up road from Mars attacks with a class of rock climbers and here comes the famous Sedona Pink Jeep. The jeep pulls up and the driver says,"Hi Bob." What? I don't know any pink jeep drivers. Well, its Scott Baxter and he friggin remembers me. I felt stupid for not recognizing him!
Also, in 93, I was climbing at Upper Sullivan's Canyon and my buddy and I did some great TRing with Baxter and buddies. Pretty sure I didn't really know who he was at the time. My buddy and I get back to the car and start it up only to realize that we had, in no way, enough gas to get back to town. We rifled the car with no success. With our heads down and our egos gone for the day we went back into the canyon to ask the boys if they had any spare change. I can't quite remember how we got all the change,b ut we did. I do remember Scott and his friends acting like the position we got ourselves into was not by any means unheard of in the climbing world. They seemed thoroughly amused.
I have no idea what Scott's real impression of us was. Hilarious.

Oh yeah! The second time I saw people on Jump Back Jack was 2003 or 4. Some unknowns as far as I was concerned and they floated like it was 5.9. Maybe it was the guys I saw a few days earlier who floatillad Gunsmoke and then floated Sorcerer. They were both wearing helmets and both REALLY knew how to climb.
I've done the first Var. pitch on JBJ and it was pretty easy for what I thought it was going to be.
We didn't do the upper part cuz we were chicken sh#t. 1996.
I will climb that crack before the Mountain closes in Feb. I'll post up.
Bob J.
drljefe

climber
Calizona
Dec 8, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
Well, I guess I'll know where to find you Jensen. Contact me, fuker, I'm back in AZ and want to climb. THIS IS JEFE.

Back in the early 90's(whenever Croft's NIAD record was 4:20) a buddy and I had the idea to climb at all of Prescott's crags in a day.
Promised Land- Burning Bosches 11a
Sullivan's Canyon- nameless 5.9
Granite Dells- Co-Op Crack 5.10
Thumb Butte- The Koran 5.10
Granite Mountain- Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.8

Good times.


bob

climber
Dec 8, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
I think we can up that a bit Jefe! Look forward to climbing with you bro. Check your email. I'm in transit to the mighty state we love.
Bob J.
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Dec 9, 2008 - 09:23am PT
Sullivan's Canyon is a nice small crag that I hadn't visited until recently. A quick look at our clothing will show that it isn't always sunny and warm in Arizona.

Nice warm-up at the Nursery:



Teddy Bear:



What is more fun that a roof crack with a sit down start? 911:





Sullies basalt is much more coarse than the Overlook or the Forks:

MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
Cochise Bump:





(pictures stolen from internet)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 9, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
Lower Sullivan Canyon...








The Promised Land...




Nothing like a good spot when you're strung out on a boulder problem...
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Dec 9, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
Elsie the Cow!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
An original topo for Cradle of Stone on Baboquivari done with Jim Waugh in 2 1/2 days in 1982.



Posted on a Babo info thread also....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=683827&tn=20#msg741152
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 21, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
Arizona has it all with respect to rock types to sample. The Sedona red rock classic, The Mace.

The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Dec 23, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
I'm a little late in responding, but I'm sittin in the BisbeeAZ library whiling away a gloomy rest day with MisterE. Climbed at Lemmon 2 days, Lizard Marmalade Direct Rocks!, like a harder version of Illusion Dweller(CCTFSLB, for you old dudes). Checked out Dry Canyon yesterday in the Whetstone Mts. Quality steep limestone facing south. It was almost too hot yesterday! Back to the thread though, for some reason I decided to do Jump Back Jack Crack about 10 years ago. One of my favorite wide things anywhere. Kind of stout but it's all there. Onsight! The Dr.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 23, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
I wrestled with the direct start and got past the crux bolted bulge only to regrettably cluck and despair at the long runout on squeeze above. My cluster of Tubechocks offered no comfort past 6". These days all that would take pro easily.
Great fat fest and one of the most striking lines at the Mountain.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
Merry Christmas! The first major survey of Granite Mountain by Matt Warfield from Climbing 49 July-August 1978.




Da bizness!









Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 30, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
A bump near Prescott....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
I found two snapshots of the second ascent of Helm's Deep (5.10)on Rappel Rock from back in the 70's. I did the route with Rich Thompson.


Rounding the chickenheaded roof on the first pitch.


Easy climbing leaving the stance on the second pitch before the difficulties ensue.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 1, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
I know you're out there ROY and I appreciate you.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 1, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Steve, did helms deep with jay way back when. what a great route.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
Talk about clean stone Murry....

And, if not, how's your slapshot???
MattB

Trad climber
Tucson
Jan 7, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
Sitting in rainy snowy Oregon, I can really really REALLY appreciate Arizona.

I can't seem to find most of my pics... but her's a couple fun ones to keep this going.







Mace Leap!



PatO on Sound of One Hand Thrashing, beanfest

I especially like the historic photos... keep 'em coming!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 9, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
Let's not forget the Lucky Goes to the Creamery thread...

http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=713571&msg=715598#msg715598

This story says a lot about why Grossman was the man (in my mind anyway). There were others who could probably pull harder technical moves but no one moved with more grace and solid head control than Steve.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 10, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
the 'ol standby never really gets old

Colin Cox
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 10, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
Paul and I were debate partners in highschool in Tucson. I introduced him to climbing around 1972. Coming from a wrestling background, he took to it readily and we became a very strong team. Paul used to be able to do multiple one finger/one arm pullups on a loop of 7mm cord!

This shot of rapping down Hitchcock Rock appeared in my 74 Tucsonian yearbook. My sister Barbara was the editor.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 10, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
A little local color from the posin' 80's! The Brad Smith hard crank tour from Climbing 101 April 1987.











steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 10, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
Gotta love that cover shot of Jim and the 80's lycra!

Also the use of code acronyms for the people in the article. JS, EZ, HS...
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 10, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
Thanks SG!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 11, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Nice thread that keeps on crankin'
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:02am PT
Mr. E in some interesting pants. Cochise Stronghold with Mike from Phoenix.


Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:04am PT
Try these out too.... QT 7, blah blah blah

mouse over the "i" in the upper right corner for captions. Nav buttons on bottom of pics.

http://www.widefetish.com/movies_ss_etc/ides_ss_900

http://www.widefetish.com/movies_ss_etc/shearling_900

(guess the soundtracks for bonus points)
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:09am PT

Sooze at Cochise


Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:14am PT
Jaybro, 1965

Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:27am PT
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 02:01am PT
Gear - check.

Guts - check.

Glory - oh yeah
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Fry Canyon, UT
Jan 11, 2009 - 02:10am PT
Holy shmoly I was just thinking about this thread and it's right on top of the page as I look. I need to get some pics together. Thanks for the pretty durn gud pictures. Pennslenvy


Edit: hey that cam in the last picture looks pretty darn new(oob) to me. And the flying chalk....Did that guy get any higher than that picture before he had to come down and get a beer.

Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Fry Canyon, UT
Jan 11, 2009 - 02:33am PT

This also is Arizona. This picture is from last spring. But my house sits in a little north facing pocket........and boy do I have snowbanks! I also know what a @#uck!n shovel is this year.






ooops wrong state





Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
Pensyl: That guy in the pic so floated that thing that even straight guys with no prison record were lining up to blow him after the ascent.

As for the new cam, he carries them like the astronauts used to carry dimes.... to sell later with the pedigree of "this cam went up Shak N Bake,
and now you can own it".







Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Shake and Bake, Half Ass, Abracadaver, Greasy Gizzards, Knead Me????? What's your fat fav in the Stronghold, Russ? Thus far....
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
Steve: only done one. The Shake and Bake. I think....

Got many more on the new list. Anything that starts in the guide book as, "this rarely done...." will get my attention.

Supposedly there are tons of them up there, all probably too far for me to walk, some even undone, and all a big secret..... shhhhhhh!

What would you put on a list of the best 5 or 10? I'll file a full photo spraydown report after I try your list.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 11, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
Abra is still the crown jewel...





Right next door is Knead Me, the original big route on Rockfellow Dome. Lots of chimneying, little real OW.

I haven't done Half Ass but it is striking as hell and you won't be able to keep your nose out of it.

Bar Exam at 5.11 on Hawk Pinnacle also looks promising.

Here is the Kerry 97 adventure guide description of the area.





Lower down, Greasy Gizzards has a nasty face move after some fun wide stuff so not your cup of tea without a TR or bail piece.

Not much comes to mind off hand that is quality fat but there are a lot of routes in the west Stronghold that I haven't checked out.

You have to check out The Thing. Look for it on a large boulder right near the on ramp toward Tucson as you get back on I-10.


drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 11, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
DB sold me my first pair of shoes in '87. Gratitude, dude.
Plenty of trippy times on, beneath, and inside the Rockfellow Group.
HERE HERE!
bob

climber
Jan 12, 2009 - 10:57am PT
Went to Granite Mountain this weekend to get my ass into climbing shape. I friggen love G. Mtn!!!!!!!!!!!! Always brings back so many memories because it is where I really learned to climb.

I had the camera and never gave it up. I want to be the only one to bust it. Control thing I guess.

1. Ahh, heading up in the morning.


2. Buddy following 1st pitch of King Pin.


3. Buddy leading crux corner. Sorry, but butt shot was unavoidable.


4. Fella linking cracks on Coat. Candyland.


5. Buddy following 3rd pitch of King Pin the way that we linked some pitches.


6. Buddy finishing 3rd pitch with fella in back ground at the belay for Coat. Candyland


7. Buddy leading last pitch to summit. Some more ass shots. Overall, a horrible climb for sure! j/k.




8. Boys next door on C.C. just before I followed up the last pitch of King Pin.


9. We returned to the Front Porch to relax and found ourselves on another route we know as the "Hotline" in minutes. It links 1st of the Nose, 2nd of Cats Pajamas, 3rd of Reunion. Great crack line for sure right up the Flying Buttress. Left the camera at the base, but the boys on Coatimundi Candyland snapped a few when they got down. This is of me leading the last bit of Reunion's splitter finger crack.


All in all a great ending to the weekend. The weather doesn't get much better, the friends, great climbing, and the most beautiful setting did wonders for me getting back into climbing shape both physically and most important, mentally.

Yeah, I'm back in AZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob J.

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 12, 2009 - 11:01am PT
"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 12, 2009 - 11:19am PT
BOB-
That's it. I'm on my way!
How good does Slammer Jam look in the background....
Nice work!
bob

climber
Jan 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
Give a shout Jefe. I've got a schedule these days so..............
Definitely thought about you up there. I remember the 1st route I ever did there was Magnolia and we all met at the top. I even have some pics (unscanned) of you chilling with Scott? was his name?
Bob J.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 12, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
Nice shots Bob! Sounds like you had a great run!

The Buddy must be pretty solid to be up there in the crux corner of Kingpin with just that one piece in there. Sweet!

Dang...might have to brave the cold.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 12, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
Anyone have that R&I article about Sedona from around 1987? I remember buying it at Scott Baxter's little shop in Flag, the Inner Basin.
bob

climber
Jan 12, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
steelmnkey, not to say that my buddy isn't solid, but he's got 4 pieces in the crux photo.
Glad y'all are enjoying the pics. Thanks.
Gotta pack some days in up there before shut down. season!
Bob J.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 12, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
I'm jonesin'
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 12, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
I hear ya Bob... missed those two up under him. Dark monitor. My buddy had about six or eight visible by that point...didn't trust one of 'em... :-)

Here's some shots from just after New Years. Route just right of Stampede on Sheepshead.

Russ nearing the top of 2...


Sooze launching...Russ at the top of 2...

Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Jan 12, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?

That's on the east side. Entrance dome? Out-of-towners dome? I can never keep those straight. Anyway, I did the first 3 of the 5 pitches a few years back. The rock gets pretty chossy above that, but the pitches we did were verynice.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 12, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
Another one from just after New Years.
Climb Too Tough to Die (10a/b), Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold

Pitch 2


Working on the last pitch (6). Airy, and spectacular.
Goes left, then up the arete above.
In the heavy wind that day, nearly fell off grabbing for my hat.

Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Jan 12, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
Folks,

A few years ago I did a line between Ides of Middlemarch and Stampede. A line of bolts led up to a stance, followed by a second significantly more poorly protected pitch up a shallow groove, over an overlap and a traverse right to a stance. The third pitch was quite bouldery directly above the stance and then it fizzled out somewhat, we finished up some stuff I'd done before over to the left.

I never got a name or grade, it was good climbing, but an odd mix of super safe and bold.

Anyone know what it was?

Best,

Steve
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 12, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
Haven't seen much mention of this route, but I always thought it was one of the coolest moderates I ever did in the Stronghold.

Days of Future Passed (5.8 A? or 5.10), End Pinnacle

Full on shot of End Pinnacle with climber at the first belay and one at the top of the second pitch.


George working on the first pitch...


George nearing the top of the second pitch.


George on the rim of the big tinajas atop End Pinnacle.
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jan 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Lovely photos, gotta give it up for the stronghold. But, as you may know, Pine, AZ has some great rock too!

Lisa Apprill on The Proposal:


Megan on Peacenik:

susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Jan 13, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
Those are good Manny. Especially that of April, WOW!
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 04:16pm PT


















Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 13, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
Nice fins in the next to last shot! Coconino?
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
Yup, the good old Coke!

That's the Doctor's Office, Steve - where we found your webbing for the descent off of Lucky Goes to the Creamery.
There's an unclimbed 200 foot over-hanging splitter on that wall with the brown stripe, gonna be wicked hard when it goes.

Erik
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 13, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
Where's the Dr.s office in relation to Dresdoom and Book of Friends? Sure is pretty in that area, but oh so soft!
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
The Doctors Office is in the canyon just to the left of Book of Friends. MP link:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/the_doctors_office__the_pharmacy/106174829

Pennsylenvy on "Timed Release" in The Pharmacy:




yeah, it's a little soft...but the grades aren't!
Buju

Trad climber
A Sandbar
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
my buddy and i doing the mace jump

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bfKhpuiWLw

he sprained both is ankles...the walk out took a LONG time. then i got a flat tire while driving out of the parking lot on our way to the ER.

i love sedona!
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
Arizona is SO hot right now....
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
Helps to do some downclimbing before you leap off the Mace. Otherwise, it's like jumping off a basketball rim onto a concrete driveway.

My buddy Tim put together a vid from the 50th Anniversary day:
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=25DPvI-tPQU

I put up a short vid of the slackline eforts that day:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6628623984806171525
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
Some more shots of Iso...



Mr. Iso (aka Manny) next two shots:


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 13, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
The tale of the FA of Days of Future Passed is a classic and I will tell it on the Abra thread with full photo documentation when I have the time.

Nice shots of Kingpin, Bob! I did an early ascent of that beautiful and surprisingly friendly line. I absolutely ate the first pitch up only to have a wierd little bout of vertigo belaying higher on the route. Too much time spent looking down the steepness!

Killer wires and edges and you're feelin' like a Kingpin up there! Great route.

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 13, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
Great stuff, all! I gotta get back to Isolation, among other places.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 13, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 14, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
A shot starting out on Days from the 97 Kerry Backcountry guide.

drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 15, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
"Superboulder", Prescott
This boulder is now either gravel, or in someone's backyard.

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
FYI Esteban:

Those coke fins, the one on the right, is Lucky Goes to the Creamery...
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
Finally bothered with the Photobucket approach so here's some stolen shots of Az daze.

Lets not forget the Big Ditch. My vote for best climb there goes to Pegasus but South Face of Zoro is also highly rated.

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
How about from the Forks, thanks to Larry for his work scanning (and to Haisley's and others for sharing)

FA of the classic East of Eden, by the man we all owe the Forks to: Scott the Man Baxter

Actually, we owe the find of the Forks to Jim Whitfield, troubled artiste extraordinaire, RIP old friend. He took Scott out there and told him
he'd thought he'd found a place with some pretty good looking climbs. :-)



Tim Coats on second ascent of Sail Away
(might be first ascent, but I was pretty sure I led it first and Tim repeated it. Maybe he did it before me and never had the heart to tell me ?)



FA of Pillowing (aka Davidson Dihedral)



FA of King Fissure (2 pitch climb at the Forks ? Kinda a hard second pitch. Named for the King Fisher flying around and croaking at us) - Davidson and Baxter


FFA of the Gold Finger Exit - Larry had led the lower pitch and used a move of aid on this exit (as I recall anyway) and dared us to free these moves. King Fissure is two corners right. Davidson, Haisley


pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
In honor of the Man of Flagstaff:
Scott Baxter.... Find the Beanie.
This was from one of his Syndicato Banquets,
which started the whole Beanfest thing.
I believe this was the second year he'd had a bouldering contest at Parks Wall




That's Scott's dad in the right foreground, Davidson on the wall and Hernando Coates waiting to pounce.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
And is any Az Appreciation thread complete with a pic of this guy:





pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
Or how about this guy hiding behind his hat in the background:



Edit: Guess a hint is in order since you can hardly see the short dude.... He's carrying a camera.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
Or the Barefoot Man himself:


Sorry for the theft Mr. D. Too good a shot not to be in this thread.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Awesome Forks shots. I love that place.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
And the list goes on....
(someday I'll actually scan my own slides)
I'm obviously missing some of my most important partners, these images are all just from borrowed scans...

Larry on the first day on Dresdoom, leading the second pitch:
(first time, he went way right, second time, I went way left, much later I did the blue ribbon exit going straight up.) Larry and I put a fair amount of work into doing this climb in what we felt was a safe manner (we'd come back with different gear to make slots and slings.) Nowdays, I'd say it probably needs about 3 bolts to make it more of classic. 3 bolts would probably still leave some good shrivel factor.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
Closing the day out with just a so so shot but of one my all time favorite climbs, The Prow (no, not that one), this is at the Overlook. This may be in the closed off area but it's far enough away from the Monkey Cages that it shouldn't be verboten.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
Ah... saw this one and just had to continue.
That guy above with the camera my sue me for this but it's just too beautiful not to share. I'll post first and ask later... So look now before it's gone.

Northern Catalinas by Peter Noebels


FWIW, I do have an even better framed shot of this by Peter the master. It shares the wall with my two Adams.

Woo hoo, Peter has approved the posting.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 22, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
Nice posting, Pablo! Might be time to root around in the old slide box. Does Timmy or Larry have any other shots from Lucky Goes to the Creamery?
bob

climber
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Is that shot above of the overhanging bouldering from Rainbow rock in between Salida and Buena Vista, CO? Looks really familiar.
Bob J.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Thanks, Paul'n'all!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 11:36am PT
Steve, I have to think if there's one pic of the Creamery, there's more. But, I sure thought Larry was in on it.
I thought he'd done the first pitch then come down
and found us and drug us down there to finish it.
Maybe he went up the first pitch then rapped off ?
That rings a vague bell. Like he had a class or something.

Bob J - yes, I suspect that pic is from that area because I stole it from D'Antonio. I have a few other great pics of the man on slides I'll have to dig up. While that shot is not Az (I don't think, it is of the man himself so belongs here since pics of him are really quite rare.)

Steve, now just need to get that nikon scanner working again.
Certainly have a few more that are postable !

Thanks J, long time no see. Awahnee with Serena as newborn I think was the last time I saw you..... Just to show how time flies....



sorry images are a bit big, but on my large monitor they seem to fit in ok. on my laptop they're crunched...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
Was it a party of four or five up there on LGTTC? I recall Haisley and Timmy but not Larry for some reason. I thought Timmy took those shots.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
You are correct. You, Tim, Jim and me.
But for some reason, I thought Larry had done the first pitch previously and went there with us to do it then rapped off after one. I recall leading a first pitch of 5.10 or so, slightly run out, mantly move onto a belay ledge ? Or, I could be confusing it with just some other climb.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
Thanks so much guys for posting these amazing photos.
Proud to be a Zoner.
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
Would love to use some of the historic pics for the NAZ guides, let us know. Thanks for posting them up.

Erik
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 23, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
Can't let Jim be dissin a slag heap and get away with it:



At a Syndicato Banquet, I think Jim had just gotten back from possibly his first big trip to Cerro ?
Great slide show, had to "borrow and liberate" some Prescott College gear
for an outdoor show and then use the gym when the weather turned.

(L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey

And yes, that Walkup (President of NAU's daughter) and that is what it looks like on Phil's left hand.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 24, 2009 - 01:01am PT
FRONT PORCH *BUMP*
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jan 24, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Bumpity bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
Nice shot Paul!

Scott Baxter's friend Philipo in Paul's shot above lost all of both hands but a wrist on one to a Civil War re-enactment accident. Despite the handicap he was able to manage many 5.7 routes and enjoyed himself fully battling away! Great guy!

It was inspiring to watch him work a set of moves all his own on every route with a wrist and a hook.
10b4me

Ice climber
the sads
Jan 24, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 25, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
To round off Steve's story of Phil's accident: it happened as he was tamping down a canon. (Steve, the ole VW bus came from Phil.)

Some of the old gang:
We can thank Larry Coats for most (all?) of the recent images I've posted. If he didn't shoot it, he at least scanned them in.
(yeah, some are lousy and dark, but some might say that's a reflection of the soul...)

Larry on Witblitz


Jim Haisley on Witblitz


et moi on Witblitz


et moi, top of first pitch, FA of the Dong.


Jim Haisley on the first ascent of Bleak Streak
(what's wrong with this picture ?)


Wrong ? I'm lying like a rug,
FA was Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom and Dave Kolpin, 1971,5.8

From the Lovejoy Guide:
This is a classic in thin face climbing which ascends the seemingly flawless wall called "The Face."
A face climbing specialist with stiff shoes will find this climb a breeze, but the man not accustomed to this sort of climbing may get caught in a Hurricane.
Care should be used in checking the security of the Holds.

PARAPHERNALIA: A small selection of small pitons and nuts is adequate to protect the final pitch and belay points on this route.
Please do not add or chop bolts.


Many a climber has been caught in a hurricane trying to lead GM 5.8s and 5.9s. This one is probably really only 5.8 ? Maybe 5.9 ?
But there did used to be that 20 ft grounder into a flake that the FA ran out and then stopped and drilled.

Last time I did this, I recall actually getting some possibly decent pro (slider, ball nut and/or TCU ?)
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 25, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
Some of that old gang in their dotage:


L/R
Tim Coats, Mimi deGravelle, Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, John Steiger, Larry Coats

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 25, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 25, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
I wonder if anyone ever repeated Depthcharge 5.10+ on Submarine Rock down in Sedona?
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 28, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
FYI- Granite Mountain closing soon!
Falcon closures go into effect monday Feb. 2nd.
This is the last weekend to climb at The Mountain 'til July.
Gotta go!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 28, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
Hey Jefe...or anyone? Ever do the Guillotine Flake route way over on the right end? If so, what are the chimneys like? Squeeze, or foot and back? or mixed?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Giucco Piano is fun over there too. Paul, Randy Mettler and I came very close to getting fried by lightening on top of that one!
bob

climber
Jan 28, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
Yes, I've done that route. I had a chalk bag and my clothes and nothing else and it was just chimney as I recall. I went out on some crack at the end that was way harder than the rest, but still moderate. Fun.
Bob J.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 28, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
Thanks Bob... just wondering. Last bit of unfinished business for me up there that's easier than 5.10.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
Mt. Elden needs some love:













--photos by Colin Cox, etc off Mountain Project
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 28, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
Here's some... think people generally go other places than the Deception cracks, but I always liked 'em...





Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
Anybody have pictures of Twilight Zone at Elden?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:17am PT
That's a great line!

This one is from John Burcham of Chris Tatum on John's Jugs, and the cover page for West Elden in the new guide:



Looks like some rough rings, there

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 29, 2009 - 12:19am PT
West Elden! Haven't thought of that place for a long time. One of my first leads as as an NAU freshman was Right Deception.

Any pics of the other side of Mt. Elden- Elysian Buttress?
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 29, 2009 - 01:45am PT
Elden, what a fun place. I always really liked the Deception Cracks.

Steve, I have some slides somewhere of 2nd ascent of The Zone. I'll have to dig them up. Seems like I saw them just recently....

One of those photos was of the Eleysian buttress, wasn't it ?


John's Jugs is wicked hard and even more painful.
We use to call that Tenure crack (it was next to Retirement crack), except we could never get up it. Something about those wires just didn't inspire much trust. I think the FA was via TR and then later led? It's an impressive thing.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
I thought that you had a camera that day on the Zone! Is that thing still 5.11?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 1, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
If I lived in Flag I could go to Elden every day when school lets out @ 3.


And I would!

I'd maybe even go there on my Bike.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
Just got an e-mail from Chris on John's Jugs - he sent. Said it was the most painful "5.12" he has ever done. Crap feet, painful locks & bad gear - good stuff!

:^}
DJMac

Big Wall climber
Bonedale, CO
Feb 3, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
Awesome thread ... great photos! Wish I had more of my time in AZ. I guess I didn't hang out with the photographer types (except Hatcher), and I'm not in any of the photos, lol.

Thanks for sharing all the photos ... brought back some really great memories and kept me from getting a lot of work done today.

AZ climbing rocks!

BTW ... who ever mentioned "secret canyon" ... YOUR FIRED. ;)

Remember the cover photo from Mountain Tools by B Hatcher, BW of a guy climbing a pointed flake? That's me, at Secret.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 3, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
Gotta get on Megadeath! It's my favorite route and my favorite band! Not...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 3, 2009 - 11:35pm PT


From the approach: Deathmarch
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Feb 4, 2009 - 08:50am PT
So Russ, what did you think?

You have more wide gear than I have ever seen any leader with on that pitch.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 4, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Clearly Mutant Weight Training or voices from the depths!

FA went with a rusty buttonhead and a #10 Hex!

Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 4, 2009 - 11:27am PT
Just the standard quads to 16" ;) Had the doubles on #5 and #6, and singles in the #4's on down. The fixed head still looks nice for a 1938 placement..... bolt is fat and shiny now.

Climbing was fairly continuous and strenuous in my condition. No real crux, but all about the same. Probably 5.8+ in Josh or 5.14c in the Gym. Calling it 5.9 seems like a pretty good sandbag. Does that place ever see sun? Did the first pitch in a down jacket.... Susan was a Soozesickle™™™ at the belay. We were going to bail right there at the top of #1, but I decided to at least do the wide pitch since I humped all that gear up there. She reminded me that there were no anchors at the top of #2.... oops.... Set out knowing I would need to cut a few favorite children loose from the stopper rack to get back down. Good stuff! Free gear at the belay! b00ty!!!111
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Feb 4, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
...and remember all those who hate the hard wide. Dean Brault and Dave Des Champs did a 2 bolt (10+) face variation into the top of pitch 2 on Abra from Knead Me (so a little 5.7 chimney on first pitch).
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 4, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
What a great pic of DB on the classic grunt pitch.

I think I once led pitches one and two together on Abra w/ JJ.
He did not want to lead anything and I wanted to get it over with.
As I recall, I regretted it up there where the second starts to pinch down and kick you out right.

I'm wondering if you can really do them together or if it's just an old man's fading memory. (I did lead everything that day but maybe it's a fantasy of 1 and 2 as one.)

Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Steve:

I'd been hearing that Twilight Zone was considered 5.10c or d but it shows up on Mountain Project still as 11- (with only one consensus.)

Sure is steep though and because of that and the rock type, somewhat painful. I'd be sure and be wearing my jammies these days
(gad's what an admission, but as I saw Baxter once justify it, 30 years of crack scar tissue prefers those cheater gloves.)

More theft from of Larry Coats images:
Baxter did the FA with aid.
Larry was w/ Ed Webster when they did the FFA.

Ed on the FFA


And Larry was there the day Steve did the 2nd FFA with me as belay slave (circa spring 77):


Check out that special nut on Steve's left side !
Actually, this thing absolutely sews up with trad nuts because the crack is so pocketed. I personally think passive pro is way better on a climb like this than cams. It won't walk, it won't get in the way of the jam, and you can hang a truck off a 9 hex buried in a pocket.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?


The first pitch of Abra, right?

Modern pro is real good. The seam takes small to med cams pretty good and then there is the 1854 rusted bolt. I thought the first pitch was harder than it looks (looks about 5.7) and kinda funky. I just did it like a salmon going upstream, using a flat left leg and an heel toe on the outside of the shallow flare, upper body stuffed in as deep as possible. The crux is pretty short at about a body length or so. Top of the pitch has some fat rap anchors. It sure looks like pitches one and two will go together, for sure with a 70m since both raps (from top of two, and top of one) can be done easily with one rope.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Thnx for the update Russ.
That's how I remember that first pitch.
Nothing like knowing OW climbing for getting up seamy grooves.

Man, if it's got nice rap anchors, why didn't they replace that POS bolt at the same time.
As I recall, it's a 1/4" in a freaking water groove.
It was rusted out back in the 70's.

And what AZ thread would be complete with out a picture of Tim Coats
(one of the most unheralded crack climbers most of you've never heard of):
Once again, another theft from Larry, Tim on 2nd ascent of Ultimate Finger Crack:


Pic by Dougald Bremner, RIP...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
Ed Webster won the humor category in a Climbing photo contest (#62 Sept-Oct 1980) with this classic shot of Scott clowning around at his own personal basalt bouldering clifflet minutes from his old haunts at Forks.



Meanwhile back at the house...the goat is in the pit and its bottle walking and caber tossing out back!


Many a later Syndicato Granitica Banquet was hosted by Scott at Parks.

drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Feb 7, 2009 - 06:30pm PT

I need a miracle
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 7, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
Great Pic of Scotty. Same contest as the picture I posted earlier.

Steve, I have some good slides of us at Parks Wall years ago.
I'll have to dig them up and scan them one of these days...

Pretty fun place...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 8, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
Especially for right out back!

Any Cwm photos?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 8, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
It's the 21st century, already, do people still climb in that obscure state?


Brutus told me today that he mugged some punk ( I may have the odd detail off,) for a brand new Sedona guide. It Bloomed on me, that that wasn't very likely. Is it?

How do I get mine? I don't think I can successfully mug Brutus....
supesclimber

Boulder climber
mesa
Feb 11, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
hey jaybro, can you do Zonerland ni March?

MC
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 11, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
Yeah J-brah... c'mon out here and do Zonerland!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:18am PT
Bees and spiders, they may poke your eyes out! Wait til your father gets home.....
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 10:32am PT
Here's the list of natural hazards for the new guidebooks - thought some of you might enjoy it:

Natural Hazards

There are a multitude of natural hazards in Northern Arizona, and due care should be taken to stay alert of your surroundings and watch the weather. Hazards include, but may not limited to:
Lightning, heavy downpours, high winds, loose rock, dangerous scree slopes, flash floods, radical temperature changes, relentless sun, freezing canyons, abandoned mine shafts, yucca, cactus and other plant hazards, range cattle, coyotes, mountain lions, bears, falcons, rattlesnakes, bats, spiders, scorpions, bees and wasps.


east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:45am PT
lions and tigers and bears - oh my!!
treeman

climber
mule city
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:49am PT
Don't forget stray bullets during elk season.
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 12, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
I was stung the other day by bees here in Az. I got an excellent workout running downhill with the full pack, trying (a) to get the max distance between myself and the unseen hive, and (b) to do so in a casual, nonchalant manner, so as not to unduly upset the bees. I got away with a few stings, but was waiting for the full awarm to descend on me at any moment. I've seen giant swarms of Africanized bees blow across the cliff -- pretty spooky.

Erik, are you going to add Phonecian beta spewers to the list of objective hazards?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 13, 2009 - 10:49am PT
A few tasty shots from Climbing May-June 77.

Scott Baxter and Ross Hardwick on the FA of the Marble Tower in the Grand Canyon. Jim Whitfield photos.






The classic tyrolean return to the rim!

Some other sweet shots of Granite Mountain.




drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 13, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
FARKIN' SWEET!!!
I'm gonna go appreciate some Arizona climbin'!
Thanks so much S.G.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
Workin' hard here to keep quality threads goin'...

Not knowin' much of Arizona climbing I was wondering if anybody worked this stuff down by Cave Creek.






drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 16, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
We need to Upgrade Steve Grossman to Pro!
WTF "Bandwidth Exceeded"?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 18, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
All better now.....
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 18, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
come on scotty , I know you are lurking out there, it's ARIZONA, "FOR CHRIST SAKE CAMERA MURRY, POST UP!!!" ok just a photo. thankyou, low angle murry out
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
Was checking out Zonerland over on Mountain project:



and found this (Kelly Bell drilling "The Stand")




Straight sexy!


coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
Ok, you sucked me in- here are a few you might like:
Old Alpineer brochure

Syndicato Banquet -Fig bottle walking

Three views of techniques for the caber toss: Grossman, Paul Davidson, and the victor, Karl Karlstrom (J. Haisley photos)




Grossman leading the Trafalmador roof at the Cwm

The Skyline pitch on the Elysian Buttress (East Elden)

Bouldering at West Elden with Gordie Douglass, Donini, Baxter, and Dugald Bremner

Baxter on the one-finger undercling on Tunnel Boulder (W Elden)


coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
Some Granite Mountain shots:
(Here you go, Largo)- First ascent of Gunsmoke (J. Haisley pic)

Candyland and Coatimundi traverses

Coatimundi Whiteout roof traverse

Heather turning the Coatimundi roof

Dreamweaver crux pitch

Two views of Jump Back Jack Crack


Slammer Jam

Tom's Thumb wide pitch

coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
Some Forks pics:
Crowsnest (a P Davidson classic)

Mutiny on the Bounty

2nd ascent of the Prow

coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
Sedona:
Blow Job Rock (no imagination necessary)

Book of Friends second pitch

Coffeepot Rock Spout Rt first attempt (Karl Karlstrom leading)

Grossman freeing the bubble pitch on the Dong

Firecat first pitch

Grossman leading King Crimson first pitch

The Mace- 2 views of the crux



coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
Some more Sedona:
Paul Davidson doing who knows what

Baxter on Macita second pitch

Jump across on Oak Creek Spire

Secret Spire

T Rex


coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
Last batch- random shots around AZ
Promised Land (2 photos)


Baxter on granite pinnacle near Bagdad, AZ

The hanging belay on Coatimundi Whiteout (Michael Phelps got nothing on me!)

Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle (look Ma, no hands!)

The summit of the Mace a long, long, long time ago.

Ad from an old Patagonia catalog.

Summit of Lily Flower Tower, Sedona (Bob Goforth, LC, Ed Webster)

Following on first ascent of Adam's Rib second pitch, Granite Mt

Alpineer ad

An exciting night at the Alpineer

Pamphlet from the Five-Ten Rock Drills

Three photos from Christmas Tree Pass Summit Magazine article



Baxter defends another secret climbing area

Four views of Comanche Point Pinnacle, Grand Canyon




High on Zoroaster Temple, Grand Canyon

Grossman on and off the Windy Point route April Fool


Hitchcock Rock

The late Dugald Bremner on What's My Line

Cochise Stronghold Warpaint upper pitch

Weavers Needle in the Superstitions

Baxter rappelling off Weavers Needle

Eagletail Feathers west of Phoenix

Summit of Crying Dinosaur, Superstitions

Two shots of the Hand in the Superstions


Toms Thumb in the McDowell Mts

Beeline in the eastern Cochise Stronghold
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 20, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
How about some Alpineer history? That store was gone by the time I arrived in Flag.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 20, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
On Beaver and Cherry right? I used to giggle at that as a kid!

This thread RULES! Thanks everyone.
Mimi

climber
Feb 20, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
Holy moly, coplateau! That collection you posted is magnificent! Thanks for taking the time.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 20, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
fricken awesome slideshow- keep on it rolling,please
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
Ok- here are some more I forgot about. Ice climbing at West Elden on one remarkable winter. The color shots are all on Baxter Cracker and the slab below it, and the B&W is somewhere on the far right end, almost to Twilight Zone.







coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 20, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
A few more random ones I ran across.
Golden Valley, near Kingman- Bax climbing

The main man himself- Scott Baxter

Dali Dome at the Syndicate Stronghold (Christmas Tree Pass)

Hosebub Whiteout on the Hackberry Wall

Bax on the Walnut Creek Wall first ascent

Nice light on King Crimson, Sedona

Second to last pitch of Dresdoom on the first ascent
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
Bad Ass!

Thanks for the contributions, coplateau

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 20, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
Freakin A, about time you chimed in Bud !
Nice shots, and btw, I was doing a roof mantle.

In case you're trying to keep your anonymity....

Here's a little story about ice climbing at Elden, names changed to protect the anonymous.

So, Elden forms (late '70s) and my good buddy Hernando starts trying to drag out me there. I don't know man, that stuff looks sharp and pointy, I say.

Hernando continues to rave (I guess it had formed the year before or so and he'd done a bit then.) So, he talks me into it, lends me some gear (I think I had my own axe and crampoons.)

We drive out to Elden and get out of the car (duh...)
Hernando hands me some gear, gives me a 30 second lesson in strapping this sh#t on and pops on his crampons.

He's excited to be out and quickly ditches me to run up to the ice. Pigout the wonder dog is quickly on his tail; that animal could smell blood long before it even happens.

Meantime, I'm back at the parking lot being a total dweeb and trying to figure out how all this weird, dangerous crap goes on my feet. I mean, you used to have lace this stuff on to your Galibiers. At least I could still touch my toes back then but other than that, it was pretty humorous watching me trying to get this stuff strapped on. Kinda like a noob trying to get into a harness that's been all twisted up.

I look up just in time to see Hernando jump on the ice and do two moves up. He's raving about how good the ice is, plastic fantastic stuff, when suddenly his Humingbird comes ripping out and there's a hellacious noise of metal jingling and crashing and ice breaking and Pigdog starts jumping and barking and it's freakin bedlam.

I notice that there appears to be some redness to the white ice and Hernando is sitting on the ground holding his head. I do the limp dash over there with one crampon on and one off to find blood everywhere !

Hernando is holding his hand over his eye and blood is streaming down his fingers. Pigdog the wonder dog is going apesh#t.
I mean totally whack. This dog is running around everywhere licking up the bloody ice. He's barking, whining and eating and just having the time of his life.

In the meantime, I'm thinking Hernando has just lost an eye to this evil sport.

He uncovers his face and says that he thinks he's allright.
I look and there's this perfect circle cut into his face that totally rings his eye. The backside of his Humingbird had a sharp open circle about an inch in diameter that had kicked back and whacked the f*#k out of his head. A tool designed to take a chunk out of ice makes pretty quick work of facial flesh.

We scoop up snow and plaster it onto his face and pretty soon the bleeding stops and Hernando says he's feeling ok. So... we do some really shaky ice bouldering and then head home.

I gotta admit, I used to be a pretty sick fxxx because on the way home, I look over and see this perfect circle cut around Hernando's eye and just start laughing uncontrollably.
I'm sure it was just nervous release and not really rude dark climbing humor.

The next day a sign appears at the Alpineer:

For Sale:
1 Set of Salewa Rigid Crampons
1 Chouinard Ice Axe

Naw, I made that last bit up. I kept my gear but I do have to say that with that being my intro to ice climbing, it never became my most favorite climbing activity.

In the meantime, Hernando has to walk around Flagstaff with one of the most bizarre black eyes you've ever seen. And as it started to turn colors, it had the look of the raccoon from hell.

And that's the story of my first time on ice, in AZ no less.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:21am PT
This seems like as good a place as any for the sneak peeks on the cover pages for the two new guides (obviously there's still some adjustments to be done):









MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:24am PT








MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:26am PT






Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 21, 2009 - 12:48am PT
Wow, in my next life I'm gonna give Arizona a try!
It was the scene of one of my first attempts at peak bagging. On the way from Chicago to LA in '62 we stopped at a rest area for lunch. While Grannie and Mom kicked it in the shade the bros (both 8) and me (12) headed for some 'peak'. We never made it to the base. We all came back within about 15 minutes festooned with chollas. We were particularly perplexed by the ones adorning our Keds. How to get them off? I swear this is true. I came up with the idea of burning them off! We waited until the heat was unbearable and then knocked them off. That was the only way we could shed the Keds! Then we could work on the stubs with pliers. The twins had it the worst. Despite some serious lip trembling I don't recall either of them really losing it.
Mimi

climber
Feb 21, 2009 - 12:54am PT
Impressive Reilly. Them jumpin' chollas were still ruthless 20 years later with Nike waffle bottoms. Had spikes embedded almost throughout my college days. Got used to em. They always managed to fester out on their own, didn't they?
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:01am PT
Mimi,
Being young and tender, us that is, they seemed to come out fairly easily. Being OCD I made damn sure they were all out before we got back in the car!
It never happened again until I was demonstrating their jumping prowess to my wife who had never seen them. Of course, I then got to demonstrate my extraction prowess; DOH!

Reilly
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:05am PT
I heard tell of Ice like that in Elden but never saw it, even when there was snow on the ground. Prolly bad timing on my part...
Mimi

climber
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:07am PT
No Jay, another bit of evidence of global warming.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:12am PT
MC, (MC?! MPC?) and steelmonk, just came across your posts from the 11th, It's not likely, March is a 22 day work month for me, this year, I'll be lucky to get out alive, as it is. but it won't always be like that, and I'm jonseing the supes and Zonerland!
Mimi

climber
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:16am PT
Granite Mt. Future SushiFest.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 21, 2009 - 01:18am PT
Now That, would be a venue!
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 21, 2009 - 09:48am PT
Thanks for the little trip down memory lane, Pablo- I had forgotten all about that little incident until now. I do remember that it bled quite a bit..

But I resent your reference to the "pigdog"- Pika always held you in the highest respect (as he did for anyone who might kill him). Does he look like a pigdog?



And BTW- I found the youthful shot of you that Grossman posted adorable- you were such a cutey! Sorry that I only met you once you were old and crusty..
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 21, 2009 - 10:16am PT
And Jaybro- it probably wasn't your lack of persistence that kept you from finding ice at Elden (or pretty much anywhere in Arizona). What made that year remarkable was the sequence of events: 1) heavy snowfall on an El Nino year, followed by 2) a really wet rain event, and then 3)super cold temps setting in for a few days. The result was an ice-sheathed Elden, that stayed around for several weeks, even though temps warmed back up to normal, mild Flag conditions. I looked for it again and again over the years, but never saw anything like that one winter.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 21, 2009 - 11:49am PT
Damn Larry!!!

You keep showing up like that and I'm gonna have to start carrying an avalanche beacon and shovel around the house!

A warm ST welcome to the illustrious Don Bosco Moraini, haute alpine sleuth, enforcer for the Syndicato Granitica and desert demi-god. The guidebook is in the house and so is the man's extensive slide collection as adventure's Eye of the North!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 21, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
Damn, little Pikie, I gotta shed a tear for the dog that wouldn't die.

First, he's gets run over by a Jeep. Was it twice as you backed up to see what you'd hit ?

Then, while doing the Silver Pond down climb at the Forks, I'm standing down on the rock below the third class (what, 15 feet of 5.7 or something like that ?) when Pika decides he's going to come down without his normal rope. He's coming down head first and slams onto the ledge right next to me.

Now to this day, I'm falsely accused of trying to drown that dog. I just did what any good physicist would.
I tried to help conserve his momentum so that he wouldn't expend it all on the splat onto the ledge.

I just gave him a little Tai Chi move towards the water.

It's really amazing how long a dog can stay under water when he's jumped down a 20 feet problem and then sailed another 15 feet through the air.

He was under for what seemed like a very long time.

I was starting think I'd finally done the impossible and killed Pika when bubbles started showing up and finally up pops Pika, snorting and wiggling.

For some reason, that dog avoided me for the rest of the day.

But I'm convinced I saved his life or at the very least, kept him from breaking his legs.

Here's a toast to Pika the wonder dog.
The Alpineer mascot, he'd jump out of the back of a moving pick up, with a chain on in order to go after another dog.

We should all be so lucky to have his adventures and then die of old age.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 22, 2009 - 10:46am PT
pika, what a cool dog , reminds me of another amazing climbing dog, the famous knocko- " c'mon knocko!!"
ericz

climber
Ogden, UT
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:14pm PT

One fond recollection of AZ,.. circa early 1980's. Departing Tucson, after a winter of walking the streets, and sleeping on friend's patios,.. I headed out west of town. Hitching across the Pima reservation,.. it took all day, with a heavy spring rain quenching/drenching the cacti and adobes. Finally, around nightfall I took shelter in an abandoned gas station, just north of Organ Pipes NM.
The next morning,.. sweeping back the sands of sleep, I was greeted with an amazing sunrise. Brilliant and warm. The day was stretched forth, with my footfalls carried across a soft carpet of desert wildflowers. The vastness of the land juxtaposed with the myraid of small plant forms radiant and alive with their blooms,.. was beautiful. The aroma of the blossoms and wet earth,.. truely a living thing.
To all the oldtimers and the newcomers, happy trails.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
I'm hearing that southern drawl echoing down forgotten neural pathways.

Zeiche stretches
With sun a smile arises
The day moves on
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
Anyone have any photos of that climb Red Planet at Sedona?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 24, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Red Planet bump. MisterE?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:12am PT
and again
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 02:20am PT
OK, I DID find a picture of it -

Credit to the Munky of Steel:



There are others, but i can't post them.

I've already gotten myself in trouble.

Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Feb 27, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
bob and steve- thanks so much for the granite mtn. photos. brings back such great memories- so happy that the finger crack on reunion got some props. i suffered through a scary, desperate lead on the fisty second pitch, only to have my ego restored by that beautiful splitter up there on the third. what a day that was..... one of so many in that magical place.
kinnikinik

Trad climber
b.c.c
Feb 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
Interesting place this arid zona, after a snow out in cochise the three weary canucks and their Nevada bretheren head to organ pipe,purported to be the "warmest place in Arizona". The chosen route, an amazing choss pile called montezuma's head.
All goes well on this New year's eve ascent, the crux being the swarming border patrol. Loose rock and route finding aside It'ol lets us pass. Sonoyta has an after route blowout, complete with machine gun fire(new years and all)and the campsite in organ pipe(barely heard of climbers)provides awesome camping(1000yr old pack rat nest in saguaro).The two events that mark it as exceptional, occur during meals on the road. First is breakfast in Sells. After silencing the place by coming in(not too many whiteys in here) we get food. The wobbling table and sloping floors are cool but the lack of silverware is disconcerting. A request for some, is met with the response "out here on the res. we use our fingers" Huh? The second interesting situation is after our climb (New years day) we eat breakfast in Why, don't ask.
The restraunt, surrounded by trailers, is an abandoned DQ occupied by locals. The walls were decorated with very large longerie, the waitress was toting a two year old and the cook was wearing a side arm(WTF). Any how seems trivial in the read but it was all better than wilcox. cheers
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Pika the dog was pretty sharp. Once at a party in Flag, I made an offhand joke about giving him a lobotomy. Pika strolled over, put one paw on my knee and set his head squarely atop it. He looked me right in the eye until I apologized and went back across the room and laid down. Uncanny incident for a smart dog!

All bets were off if you happened to be below on a dog friendly downclimb and Pika got the urge!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:32pm PT

Colin Cox


Dr. Rubo's
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
Just got back from seven days in Sedona- fantastic. Five days on sandstone and two on basalt and never saw another climber. Want to have fun- go do Arch Enemies.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 9, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
What's the scoop with Arch Enemy?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 02:03am PT
"from the guide":

Description
Located on the formation up the ridge from The Flying Buttress. This classic route climbs over a large V-forming arch for six pitches.

Directions
Drive 3.5 miles up Schnebly Hill Road to large gravel lot on the right. Cross the road and head South on the Cowpies Trail over large patches of slickrock. Traverse left and under the formation on single-track trail.

Past Archenemy, one can head further West for the Flying Buttress routes, Technicolor and Epitaph.


Route beta
Double 0.5"- 3", (1)-3.5", (1)-4". P1: fingers to O/W (5.9), p2: Left past thin crack to exposed bolted face (5.11-), P3: Hands thru roof traverse Left at bolt (5.10), p4: many bolts to bombay squeeze p5: bolted traverse to right, p.6: Short 5.10 crner to O/W, then 4th class. Two-rope rappel.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Still no takers for Depthcharge on Submarine Rock??? Great route, easy approach and no mistaking the formation! LOL
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 10, 2009 - 11:56am PT
Drljefe- The description sent by Mr.E looks good. The 11- on pitch 2 is short and well protected. Pitch 4 is the business- sustained 5.10 bolted face to the 5.11+ crack followed by some 11- into a flare. The crux has a bolt at face level. Enjoy!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Just looked at my description of Arch Enemies- coffee must not have kicked in. The crux is a face move not crack climbing.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
Thanks guys, sounds good. Erik have you done it? Bob J?
I must admit, I'm kinda sweatin' the coin toss...
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
An assortment of crags from the most recent download of my digital.

Mt. Lemmon -- unknown cliff, unknown route (we were lost):





Sullivan's Canyon

Racking up for Sword of Damoclese, 11a OW



Adam plugging away



Distant Vision -- 10b with lots of small gear





Jack's Canyon -- Lydia on Six Shooter, 12a



bob

climber
Mar 10, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
Jefe, haven't done it, but Trout and I have been keen!(sp?) The line looks fantastic. Evan and I went out there to do Miami once and had some weather issues. Next time we went to do it it was gone. GONE! Why don't Trout, myself and yoself do it together? Move discussion to phone or email.
West Ridge homey. Cuando? You stay at my village. You no pay.
Bob J.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Thanks for the info update, Jim. Duly noted


Hey, I wanna play! Err...not on Depthcharge, Steve...LOL! :^]
Adam Mayhem

Trad climber
LHC, AZ
Mar 10, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
"Too bad Arizona is so close to California;..... "

Being a native Zonie, I have this thought everyday.
sweatyballs

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
Here is a cool one from several weeks ago in Sedona (Mars Attacks). Mike Esparza (me) gripped out leading on two 8mm ropes and my bro Dan Cohen belaying.





Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 29, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
MisterE- you can do the second pitch of Depth Charge at 10a or so and a nice crack to the top of the conning tower! The first pitch is 10+ and exciting with a classic limestone overhang problem to pull above the waterline onto easier ground.

A Peter Noebels photo of Paul Davidson powering up New Wave 12a on an early repeat. As the name implies, a wave of airy clip and go testpieces were not long in coming. This is one of the most striking lines at Windy Point.

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 29, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
Bump it it's gud!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
Damn, that Donini guy sure puts all us young punks to shame.
I'm happy to be out pulling off run out 5.8 (ok, 8+) and bolted 10s... And he's out warming up on 11s so he can do the real stuff way down south.

Here's a bit I recall from Depth Charge...

Steve and Tim (??) were putting up the route. I was doing something over on the west end of Submarine with John Fleming (Up Periscope rings a bell, decent climb up that west nose) when Steve starts yelling about clearing the area. I'm lazing as the belay slave on our climb when suddenly the whole damn rock vibrates as a good sized trundle cuts loose and crashes off the base of the rock.

I mean seriously, it wasn't earthquake magnitude but Submarine is a big rock and we were on the west end, what, 100 yards away from Depth Charge, when Steve, on the lead and confronting some rather big nasties, releases the first charge. It caused that whole submarine to vibrate but good.

I think it took 10 years off Timmy's life to have that shrapnel hit so close and be so loud. It was safe, or as safe as any block down toward a belayer can be. I seem to recall a few more barrels went off that day, cleaning up the lead for the second ascent (still waiting....) but damn, if my nap wasn't ruined.

It's a pretty impressive lead, right up the middle of the big south face. Old skool pro, I don't think there's anything fixed ?

Edit:
It's looking like I have my routes confused. Musta been the shrapnel, PTSD kicking in.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
There was a beautiful handcrack up a corner and out a big roof about thirty feet up. A rickety blade of rock about ten feet tall guarded the start. After screwing around trying to stem past it, it became obvious that it was over the side for the pup! I crawled up behind it after yelling down every sort of warning and employed a power armbar!

Slowly the blade began to lean into space and head into the void. One loud klack and the thousand pounds separated into suitcase-sized blocks and disappeared over the edge sucking the rock dust along.

A three count and the charge went off at 200'! About the same and a wild shock wave came flying through the entire formation! The folks nearby definitely were not expecting that big a depth charge! Great pitch once the way was clear.

I don't recall that first pitch being too harrowing besides the block chucking at the horizontal breaks. No fixed pro anywhere on that route that I can recall
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 31, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
I believe this is the rock in question... I distinctly recall hiking around it to look at the routes on there, but apparently didn't take any other pics.

I think the route Down Periscope is on this south face...maybe about where the yellow arrow points is the start? According to Toula guide, Depth Charge is on the left side (blue arrow).






Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2009 - 11:18am PT
No mistaking Submarine Rock and that is the right spot for Depth Charge. The first pitch goes up a steep wall hidden behind the formation as shown and below the limestone break.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 1, 2009 - 11:57am PT


Something or other at Windy Point, maybe over by Question of Balance?
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 1, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
OK- so Depth Charge is in the shadowed chimney on the northwest corner- I'm leading Down Periscope.


Heather Songster at the crux mantle on Down Periscope- sorry Steve, but it ain't too great of a route (better in our memories than reality!)

The rappel off Submarine Rock- Depth Charge on the left.

coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 1, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
Since you asked about Pointed Dome- here are a couple shots.
Pointed Dome on the left, Heather and I on top of Queen Victoria to the right.


Some old-timey dudes on the summit of Pointed Dome (late '70's)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
Larry- who was Kamps partner on Pointed Dome?
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 1, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
TM Herbert and Don Wilson (1959). Pretty proud runout, although I later found a pin scar 2/3's of the way up above the bolt. Did you know that when we replaced the original nail drives that the last bolt was placed improperly- with the nail through the hanger and not the whole sheath!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
I think those old nail drives had enough resistance that they figured they were good for the strength of the nail! I sure would rather clip into the whole show. I wonder if TM remembers that one? Did those guys do anything else on that visit?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 4, 2009 - 11:04am PT
Up Bump-o-scope!
Dickbob

climber
Colorado
Apr 4, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 9, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
Bump for climbers!!!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 9, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Weaver's Needle Bump?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 9, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
A climbing thread up front- thank Zeus!!!! Who is the guy with the lycra- circa?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Those were great stories, Paul and Steve! Thanks!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 9, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
Nice lycra Dickbob! You should consider cross-posting to the Lycra appreciation thread - it's a funny one.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=543410&msg=781285#msg781285
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 9, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Zonerland bump...




Nice shot Rick.
That's one of the routes I have not located yet...
coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 11, 2009 - 09:43am PT
With all the discussion about Submarine Rock, I forgot to mention the most interesting story. When Tim and I did the second ascent, we climbed a crack system alongside an old bolt ladder (self-drills with the hangers and caps removed). So when we got on top, we expected a drilled rappel anchor to simply re-rig and rap off. Instead, when we reached the NW corner of the formation (where the rap anchors are now), there was one partially drilled hole, and a second with a self-drill hanging halfway out- no bolts, hangers, etc. Fortunately we had brought up the drill and established the current anchor. But our bafflement continues (cue the scary music)- just how did the first ascent party get off? Were they picked up by a UFO? (Further inspection of the summit yielded no other natural anchors or hint of descent possibilities. I suppose a Needle's rappel would work, but wasn't very common knowledge in the '70's)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 11, 2009 - 11:27am PT
Nice mystery! Any possibility that the projecting shield would have been in the position to act as a stop for a Needles rappel? Sounds like a case of hammer failure...or rapture...or ?!?
supesclimber

Boulder climber
mesa
Apr 11, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
Nice shot Dickbob........F-you Scotty.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 11, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Anyone out there done Vertigo Spire?
Cool spire in great location.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
How many routes on that formation?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 12, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
Steve, there are two routes on the formation. One pitch 5.7 (guy in the pics is on it) and a two pitch 5.5 called The Grope that goes up the face to the right. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I heard someone's story once about it having some pretty classic Supes manky rock over there. Probably have a line on it in the Canadian Rockies. :-)
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Apr 12, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
"...Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them..."

If you like to boulder, it sure is.

Curt

Manny

Social climber
tempe
Apr 13, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
Queen Creek, much maligned by some that don't know much of it. It has decent bouldering, ask the thousands that partied there at the PBC and other times. Long routes on good rock, sans piranha teeth even. This shot is Smoking the Toad, 5.8, mixed bolts/pro, 150' long and mucho fun Donna leading, Charles belaying:



Here's Pensylenvy (following) and Dan Z on Easy Street, a cool sport route at the end of Hackberry Creek in Lower Devil's Canyon with Pinal Peak in the background. Only a few routes in the photo, some pinnacles await FAs:

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 13, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
Nice shots Manny!
Lots of reasons to love Queen Creek and many people do!

Falls in Lower Devils Canyon


Bouldering prep for one of the PBCs


Bunch o' folks who think Queen Creek is pretty okay!






pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 13, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
Here's a bit of minor history regarding Queen Creek:

Not sure when the first of anything was done in that area, being Tucson and Flag boys, but sometime around 83/84 I'd been popped for a speeding ticket near Globe while coming back from Sunrise to Tucson.

I talked Steve into going up into that area with me on the day of my "court appearance." I'd been bouldering on some of the limestone and quartzite and thought we might find something bigger.

Very odd, ticket dismissed by the Judge's secretary. "Just call next time and we can take care of it over the phone." Not your typical small town AZ traffic court, let me tell you.

We headed west out of Globe and after coming out the far west side of queen creek we turn around and head back toward the creek. We hadn't seen much appealing to a couple of tradsters but there was one thing so we and parked close to where the road starts to enter the canyon. We humped up the hill to the N towards the most obvious square "tower" where Steve proceeds to lead some 10ish (R?) bit of face/crack which pretty much rained pieces of rock the whole time. Some of them tossed off, some of them skittered off every time Steve put a foot down.

I remember we talked about the place might make for some good sport climbing (just coming into AZ at the time) if you were willing to climb right by the road and clean, clean, clean.

Don't recall if we walked off, rapped off, if it was only one pitch or two or even what Steve named it. Something to do with the ticket I think...

Other than the PBC, I haven't climbed there again. I suppose someday. Naw... If I'm coming back to AZ, I'm heading elsewhere. No offense, but Queen Creek vs Granite Mnt, Flag, Tucson, Stronghold, Sedona, etc... Not much of a decision there. Maybe stuck in Phnx for a weekend ?
Mike.

climber
Apr 13, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
I dig this stuff, thanks for all the sweet looks!

Just finally did Weaver's Needle...even more fun than beers with steelmonkey? Oh, my feet--maybe not!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 13, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
Dang Mike... I didn't think I was that boring...
At least the beer was good, eh? :-)

Paul, climbing was going on in the canyon proper back in 1973 with this route (Legal Dihedral). A nice climb, but no so legal anymore as I think it's basically considered off limits by the gummint these days because it's located smack on the side of higway 60.



First climbed by Larry Treiber and partners with a second pitch done by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock. That was probably some of the earliest (recorded) climbing in the canyon.

Next up were probably most of the lines on the Little England Wall (this is on the south side of the canyon just past the tunnel) were done in 1977 by Don O'Kelly and Kent Brock.

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
Queen Creek is fun. I don't know what Globe is like these days, but I don't remember it as being a place to show off your lycra tights!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Apr 13, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
There has been some climber ass kicked in Superior.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 13, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Greg:

Tx for the history info.

Larry Treiber, now there's a name that should have come up in this thread a long time ago.

That big guy could really face climb. At Gnt Mnt: Slide Action Traction is one of his routes I believe. Also Slammer Jam, Beaver Cleaver, Green Dagger, Dislocation Buttress, The Nose, Deep Yogurt, Falling Ross, Granite Jungle, Walk Soft, Once in a Blue Moon, Delphina Lightning Ass, and ...

What's the story on him spending the night on the GM Nose (rather than just rapping down ?)

For you Mnt afficianados, Deep Yogurt is one rarely done and obscure climb that is really quite good. Two pitches up and right of Coke Bottle. Might go as one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 13, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
You talkin' about this guy?

Having never met Larry, always figured this was a picture of him... can anyone confirm? This shot looks like jugging up Coatimundi.


From the first ascent of the Nose at Granite Mountain.
Check the shot of Treiber the morning after the bivy in question...





pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
Sure looks like him to me.

And good GOD, those look like Kronehoffers (sp?)

Sorry I ever got rid of mine, they'd make a great pair of bowling shoes.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
I'm guessing that's Bill Sewery all fetal style in rain suit.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 13, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
That's Larry alright. I recall him looking a bit more like Jimmy Buffet meets Commander Cody!
Larry also did a bunch of routes at the 10 to 4 Wall on Kitt Peak up the road from Aquagomy. An obscure couple of areas that are open from 10 to 4 on the gated road to Kitt Peak.
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Apr 14, 2009 - 09:44am PT


from my phoenix rock copy
bob

climber
Apr 14, 2009 - 10:52am PT
pk davidson, I climbed Deep Yogurt for the first time this year! It was an absolute blast. Tricky gear for sure for some parts. I just couldn't believe I hadn't done that one yet. Just sitting there getting looked at for years.
Great stuff.
Bob J.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 14, 2009 - 11:04am PT
"I'm guessing that's Bill Sewery all fetal style in rain suit.'

Too bad there's not something, like maybe a pen, for scale.

I miss my Kronhoffers every day. if I had a new pair I would learn to yodel.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 14, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
The man...



pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 14, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
Tipping one to Bill, Larry and DMS

And to Bill's Hoffers (there they are again !)

Was it the late '90s when Bill moved on ?
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
Apr 28, 2009 - 10:30pm PT






It was windy this Saturday, so we had to resort to deviant tactics..







Pumphouse Wash, right in my backyard, nothing but trees and a dirt road separates this Arizona appreciation beauty, 5 miles of them...



We came a little ill prepared. This crack was longer than we thought. Too bad. We had to set our sites upon something else.



the ultimate dihedral

now here's a bit of some unfortunate truth. I told my buddy Doug that I onsighted this route (I lied). But I did clip the first three pitons off the ground (which is a feat in itself!!). Poor Doug, sandbagged again. The moss/slab crux was pretty gruesome.







pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 28, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
Why, I believe that's White Wedding in Pumphouse Wash.
(the first corner)
On West Side of Canyon ?
Look like it to you Steve ?

Is there a belay in now at the top of the first pitch ?
(Take a bolt kit, it needs a belay and bolts on 2nd pitch.
see mountain project)

And Ultimate Dihedral below that.
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
Apr 28, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
So Paul, you call that white wedding? We didn't make it up yet!!!!

Hopefully will be better prepared next time. Next attempt I am gonna bring the right gear. Looked like an anchor below the bush would make sense. I will try to find what the local knowledge base knows about this.
Edit I looked on Mtn Project and this is the crack.It's so nice I can't believe it hasn't had a few ascents. We certainly did not have triples...been there before but it's easy to forget how long these climbs are. With the right amount of gear I think we certainly could have topped the first pitch. The second looked to be a deep recessed chimney. Do you recollect?
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 29, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
Our first pitch belayed up in the chimney to which you refer. Which sort of reminds me that pulling out of the crack and into the bombay was pretty exciting, especially since at that point, I could see what the belay was.

The base of the bombay is where Steve had the butt/foot belay and a #3 hex sideways on maybe 2 points.

For the 2nd pitch, I went out onto the face right of the chimney. I think I remember the chimney pinching out not too far up and I seem to recall getting some gear in there and at the occasional overlap. As I mentioned on MP, I believe we had to simul for about 15 ft of the second pitch in order to make the rim and the big jack pines. But those were 50m daze.

You will definitely want a bolt kit to put in a belay if you go to the chimney and I think the second pitch can use a couple bolts.

Good luck with it and enjoy. Certainly seems odd if it's never seen a second. There is that ultimate frisbee route which might be this climb but that description makes it sound like it's in the UFC alcove. I don't know how else you could be a west facing wall and be on same canyon side as UFC.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 29, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
White Wedding for sure!

Who did the Ultimate Dihedral FA? Pins?
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 29, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
Tim Coats and Stan Mish...

I think they're drilled baby angles.
Riotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
Apr 29, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
White Wedding, huh?

The Doctor always told me that thing had been done before. I stumbled upon it in '96. I went up there the next time I could get a willing partner. Thinking I had done the first ascent, I called it The Beauty, a name that made it in to Bloom's "Castles in the Sand" guidebook. I don't think he gave me credit for the first ascent, however.

Anyway, I just got off the phone with Pencilenvy and told him about the two bolt anchor I put on a sloping ledge out right. Its about a 130' pitch and I used triple #1, #2, & #3 camalots (wished I had brought a #4). I called Pencilenvy a wuss for not getting to my anchors. But I take it back, you don't run it out on this rock like you do on granite.

pk & Grossman, you guys are psycho, I'm not sure what lies up above the first pitch even qualifies as "rock". Nice route, a real beauty . . .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 30, 2009 - 09:50am PT
So's Billy!


Take me back home
There is nothin fair in this world
There is nothin safe in this world
And theres nothin sure in this world
And theres nothin pure in this world
Look for something left in this world
Start again
Come on

Its a nice day for a white wedding

Its a nice day to start again.
Its a nice day for a white wedding

Its a nice day to start again

5.10++ or so on the grade for White Wedding?
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 10:22am PT
Ultimate Frisbee (picture by M. GeikenJoyner):




pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
Larry Coats came up with the name Cocoweap for the Pumphouse Wash rock.

Much sandier than Coconino, not as well bonded and certainly not limestone.

When Steve started to simul the 2nd pitch with only a few pieces between him and me and a full rope, I remember thinking,
"Great, I'm gonna die on some POS pitch the day before I get married."

I was damn glad it was Steve down on the other end and even happier when I hit the rim and ran around a big old Jack Pine.

Here's the story of the first ascent:
http://mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/pumphouse_wash/106230149

That's the beauty of a lot of the Sedona routes, no fixed gear means you can find yourself having a first ascent adventure.
I recall running into Dave Houchin at a bean fest once and him telling me about the time they did Sand Castle. They thought they were bagging a classic first ascent until they topped out on the OW of pitch 2 and came upon a fixed baby at the belay ledge. He was bummed. I told him the great thing was that he'd gotten to do the climb as if it were a first ascent. I'll have to scan slides of that climb. It's truly memorable and safe. There are other climbs in Castles in the Sand that have erroneous names and FA parties. I suspect it'll all get cleaned up with the new guide.

Glad to know WW now has a belay. Certainly a worthy one pitch climb and if one is feeling a bit psycho, there's the second pitch to lead. We pretty much had no choice but to go for the rim.

Thnx for the pic Sr. E. Clears up my confusion.
Definitely some very distinctive routes in Pumphouse.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 1, 2009 - 10:22am PT
Nothing jogs the memory like a good photo.

Any beaver still living in the wash?
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
The climbing Capital of the Galaxy
May 1, 2009 - 10:26am PT
No beaver sightings.
Riotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
May 1, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
You have to go during swimming season to see any beaver ;)
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 01:03pm PT










tcoats

Trad climber
Utah
May 1, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
Actually Paul, here’s the history of the Ultimate Dihedral:
Jim Haisley and I put in the baby angles on the mossy traverse and climbed the first pitch not too long after we stole the Ultimate Finger Crack from you. Back in those days we considered it an uncompleted climb if you didn’t go to the top, so we came back with Stan Mish and added 2 more pitches to the rim. I remember Stan leading a super sketchy pitch with bad pro and worse rock. It didn’t seem to faze him in the least. I’m sure those pitched have never been repeated.
We didn’t name it the Ultimate Dihedral either; John Madsen and Dow Davis called it that after finding it later that summer. I’m can’t remember what its real name is, probably Dyno Honers from Outerspace.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 1, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
Why there's Tim....

Ya know, now I remember you and haze climbing that stuff.
Not much ever fazed Mr. Mish. However, he could certainly phase others.

Sure you didn't call it Dyno Whores from Innerspace ?

Oh yeah, I'm starting to think I might finally forgive you if you'd ever show up to any of the fall outings.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 3, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
Tim- Did you belay me on Shot In The Dark on the Sine Wall at the Forks?
I recall a nasty, RP protected 5.10+ R/X route in the tightest of columns.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009 - 10:45am PT
Some more route info fishing.....
At one of the banquets early on, a bunch of us went climbing in Sedona. Herb North and I picked out a striking offwidth route and Fig and Dave Baker started up a line to the left and got stopped. I went over and finished that one too. The right one was named True Grit, if I recall, and I can't remember the left one.
DB and Fig didn't make very many gatherings so the timeframe is pretty narrow. I can't even recall the area location!?!

Another vagary...Larry, what did that one drilled angle route near the Mace finally get named. You were reading a book about the Hell's Angels at the time so I proposed Kickstart Spire?!?
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 5, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
Tower of Boodle was the formation ?
Dreams Come True was the Climb ?
I believe you led 1 pitch, Herb led another and Dave, Fig and I took a rope to the top.

True Grit was the climb on the next formation East

All behind Dr. Rubo's

All remembrances are sketchy...

I believe Toula's guide has True Grit and Dreams come True reversed.

coplateau

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
May 5, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
Funny that you asked about that- I just finished scanning some of these. Below- you are correct that Toula has them reversed: True Grit climbs the main corner a ways, then swings boldly around the arete and into the bottomless dihedral to the left.

[img]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3K2U0FRaarU/SgDVlWGoJ0I/AAAAAAAABUU/8l-UOAKKZa8/s800/Sedona%20Dreams%20Come%20True.jpg
[/img]
And I like the name Kickstart Spire (summit of Dodger below)- it's boringly named the Coats-Grossman route in the guide. Note the chunk missing from my hammer handle- I believe you blew it up drilling the rappel bolts in your typical three blows!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
Who are we fightin', who are we fightin???

Memorable line from that biker insider tell all, if I recall correctly? Right about the time that the author gets his ass kicked to end the study! LOL

My old favorite offwidthing football jersey after a bout of right side in! And Contacts!

How large was the summit of Kickstart? I remember a fairly slender formation?!?

Dreams Come True was really good as I recall. All nasty looking from below and full of good holds once you suck it up and go! That route should have seen a few repeats by now.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 8, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
How's this for a topout??!!


And there are enough stinky dudes represented in this thread.
Hows about a chick cranking B1 and smelling good doing it??!!


Thanks again SG,PD,Coats- you guys have provided a sh!tload of inspiration, past and present.
Riotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
May 8, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
Is that top-out on "The Mother of All Boulderproblems"?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
May 8, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
A lot of AZ climbing is stinky dude type stuff. I remember things improving in Flag when the Pit got developed.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 8, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
Riotch- not M.O.A.B. Twister.

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath- lots of stinky chick type stuff too!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2009 - 10:42am PT
Well, I chatted with Jim Haisley recently and he was the mystery belayer on A Shot in the Dark on the Sine wall. His recollections about the route matched mine. Notning but a few RPs and some thin, hard face climbing on a flat portion of the wall. Jim recalls 5.11ish difficulty. Left side of the Sine Wall if I recall correctly and it likely hasn't been lead again.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
May 10, 2009 - 10:47am PT
steve, how many routes have you done that haven't seen a second?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2009 - 11:44am PT
Not very many Murry since I usually came back for a repeat myself unless the climbing was just horrid!

Topo of the Sine Wall anyone? Is A Shot anywhere on it?
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
May 10, 2009 - 11:57am PT
steve- that's cheating!hahaha we know you can send em' it's when others are not willing to venture up that truely makes a statment!! ( not that your trying to prove anything- just your inherantly bold style!!)cheers! edit- cool got to be the 420 post!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 10, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
No mention of A Shot In The Dark on any topo I have. Bloom is working on a new book for that area, so now's a good time to identify it and get it in there.

Where's it located?


rick d

climber
tucson, az
May 10, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
gregory-
that would be the sine wall-

also helps if you change the image name.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 10, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
Yup... just curious where the Shot in the Dark route is located.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Just checked - it's not in our sheets...

Edit: We have Sine language: Broken face crack to triangle flake

Who did you do that one with, Steve?
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
May 10, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
damn-i scrambled for the 4:20 entry and got beaten. this thread is sick!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
It goes up the flat area left of center. Post a current topo and if there is a blank space in that area , that's it.

I did a route called Sine Language in there that takes the jagged column bottom on the right side. I think A Shot goes up the flatness just left. Might be one and the same?

Sine Language had good deep cracks and steep jamming at 5.10+ or so.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
May 10, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
I miss the
forks...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
Here's a scan of the Toula topo... so i'm guessing it's out there to the right of #5 - Sine Language (love that route!).

Jaybrah - come on over, we'll hit the Forks!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
Well, I went looking for the Forks but found these classic shots in the old slide box.

The unflappable Randy Mettler on the second pitch of Thin Slice at Granite Mountain. I listed this route as an area classic on Cmac's 100+ classics thread.



The Tim and Paul show on some fingery affair. Mount Eldon, Gloria's Rocks???




The ever fashionable and commercially sponsored Pablo Cruz on the FA of Let's Make a Deal on What's My Line Dome in the Stronghold!




drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 10, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
SG- you're pretty damn good at changing the subject now that we're all fixated on "Shot"!!!
Left or right of Sine Language?
Who knew?!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
Which route is #5? I have photos of that one someplace.

The line of A Shot in the Dark shown above looks correct. It is a pretty obvious line, just no pro.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 11, 2009 - 10:35am PT
Cool, #5 is Sine Language as Steel pointed out above. Man that was a fun one!

Somebody throw a toprope on that pup and let's see if it is reasonable which would confirm where the Shot came from.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 13, 2009 - 09:37am PT
Mystery bump!
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
Bump for another email from Bonnie:

Hi,
I just returned from a trip to find your email waiting. My apologies, apparently I gave you incorrect information. When I made the database from Bob's climbing diaries we checked and rechecked to look for errors. We didn't find them all. After reading the note on ST about the 30th being a Wednesday I checked the original diary entry. Bob had written 12-26. That wasn't a Sunday either. The actual date must have been December 27th as that WAS a Sunday. He gives the date for their Shiprock North Summit as 12-30. His early climbing diaries were put together from memory, a few records and some correspondence. There were many ommisions and dates were nearly impossible to reconstruct. But it is possible to pinpoint this one because we know Yvon missed the climb because he went to Mass. I thought you might enjoy seeing Bob's diary entry for an earlier trip to Oak Creek with Don Wilson, his climbing mentor.
Bonnie Kamps





Pretty cool stuff all around!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 22, 2009 - 12:19am PT
Thanks for posting that up E. Very cool.
Done that East Chimneys route... 5.8... those guys were hard as nails.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 23, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
While you are talking old school, here's a little Kamps tidbit from Summit April 1960.



MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 12:36am PT
Bump for three weeks gone and missing my buds and FA good times.

Cheers to PE and The Doctor - may we find many more adventures together soon, my friends.

The Doctor on "Side Effects" during the FA:




Tim and I receiving our birthday gift at Cochise:



Erik
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
Anyone toprope A Shot in the Dark yet?

My previous post mentions Bob Kamps next route which presumably is The Mace?!? It certainly overhangs on all sides...LOL
Chinchen

climber
Flagstaff?
Jun 30, 2009 - 03:36am PT
I dont want this thread to end!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 11, 2009 - 11:55am PT
Arizona climbing is endless...
Pennsylenvy

Social climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Jul 14, 2009 - 12:10am PT
It was hot in Winslow. My friend had lost a dog for way to long for that sweet pup. We didn't rope climb at all. A little water soloing and there's this new crazy gizmo at the reservoir.



from past photos.... Winslow a place full of beauty




I know there was a thread about this but I'm just going to do it here........0







shameless bump

]
Pennsylenvy

Social climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Jul 14, 2009 - 01:37am PT
O.K. shameless bump ( because it's me in the photos ) someone took some good photos on my camera..




MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 02:42am PT
Scanning topos, la-la-la are you down with the sickness?





drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jul 14, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
Damn nice topos.....

































for a city slicker!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jul 17, 2009 - 12:39am PT


Dresdoom...

New scanner, trying to figure it out.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jul 17, 2009 - 12:52am PT


Cochise
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 9, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
Where is that Shot in the Dark?!? Bump
MisterE

Trad climber
Meeteetse, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 12:42am PT
I'll just post one "after".
3 hours of Photoshop manip to get it better - doing this with over 200 topos, not all take this much time:

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Aug 20, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
kwit

climber
california
Aug 20, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
drljefe:

is that ^ 'what's my line' in cochise?

k
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Aug 20, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
kwit-
no. west stronghold, sheepshead, ewephoria, bolted 5.7, fun
richross

Trad climber
Aug 20, 2009 - 02:03pm PT

Being hatched at the Grand Canyon,1975.


steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 20, 2009 - 02:40pm PT





BlackGeorge

Social climber
Utah
Aug 20, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
Hey, Where is that??
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 20, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
Photos I posted above are from Granite Mountain near Prescott.

Here's some pics of an ascent of Bill Williams Spire near Williams from when we climbed it 15 years ago. Posted in the BWS thread as well.

The spire from the approach... we climbed the side facing the camera.


Approximate line we climbed... I thought it was sorta stiff for only 5.9, but then it was thin hands, so I was disadvantaged. :-)


My buddy Tim on the first pitch of what we climbed...


Tim's girlfriend (wife now), Karen coming up the second belay.


Karen rapping off the north face.


My guess at the line of the North Face route.

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 21, 2009 - 12:58am PT
Where's the Walnut Creek Wall Beta on Swain's site ? I can't get the hyperlink to show.

That is one fun 5.8 that rarely gets done, I suspect.
Quartzite friction climbing. I think, if I remember, Hualapai wall is Quartzite so ...

Shameless self stroking for some Overlook history at:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona__new_mexico/the_history_of_the_oak_creek_overlook/106515431

Needs more stories, Steve, post up the time the crab unclipped itself on RedRum, the left line.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 21, 2009 - 11:52am PT
I don't recall that episode Pablo?!? Do tell...
fluffy

Trad climber
boulder
Aug 21, 2009 - 01:13pm PT


sword of damocles

i remember that one now

was originally rated 11c

11a is more accurate

not sure how much of an ow it is, the biggest piece i placed was a 4 camalot

thanks for the trip down memory lane
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Aug 21, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
edit: Sword Of Damocles! What A Climb!
BlackGeorge

Social climber
Utah
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
How ever can a 20 foot boulder be rated V13??

Just a hunk of junk sitting on the ground.

Pate is not to be trusted and should stop spraying.
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
i was just sayin'......
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
Coke Bottle Chimney?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Top pics were Karl's Korner (5.9)

Other (chimney) pics were Guillotine Flake (5.7) over on the right side just past Grody Coyote area. Did that a couple weekends ago just to knock it off. Last route I had left to do up there easier than 9+. Was sort of interesting in a chimneyish sort of a way. Personally, I think a true 5.7 leader would see God on that route, but that's the Mountain. :-)

I always thought Coke Bottle was a really good route too. Gotta love those 50 foot runouts if you don't have a #23 Friend.
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
Steve- did you ever do the chimney/offwidth at the top of Coke Bottle that most people bail out before? i did that in order to top out on the buttress and it remains some of the most difficult climbing i've ever done.
bob

climber
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:04am PT
Pate, do you mean the Hump Crack? 5.10 fist over bulge to ow. Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals. Short, but full of the goods. Like the last bit of Cinnamon Girl. Inconspicuous little corner after the perfect handcrack at the top of Sorcerer/Kingpin. Step (way big) left and start crankin. I did it yesterday for the first time in a long while. PUMPER especially greasing in the sun. The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet.
Ahh the Mountain.
Bob J.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 28, 2009 - 10:16am PT
"Its one of those G. Mountain more bang for your buck sort of deals."

Ha ha. Story of my life at the Mountain. :-)

"The Mountain has lots of good little variants like those two. Hard fuggers that are no longer than 30 feet."

We were just noticing Camptown Races the other day. Knew it was there, and have looked out there before, but kinda put two and two together. Looked nice. You done that one Bob?

You can see Webster's (?) pin sticking out of the wall on the Thin Ice there as well... yikes.

"Ahh the Mountain."

You said it brother.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA