Fontainebleau - The Dream Forest of French Bouldering

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Messages 221 - 240 of total 241 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Feb 2, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
^^^ Yeah. Poor Amber - what price difficulty exacts . . .
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
If ever there was an argument to be made against heel hooks...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 3, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
that graviton sequence ...
I like the creativity.
How often do you see inverting on face to snag a toe hook top out?
She is mock celebrating anyway, not claiming.
I learm more technique from my weaknesses than my strengths -

(if I had any strengths).
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 24, 2014 - 02:23pm PT

Be crushes Font in 3 days
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2014 - 04:45pm PT

Bouldering @ Fontainebleau

13:25 Problem: Salathe Wall

Fonturist.no: http://www.fonturist.no/fontainebleau-uten-bryderi
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 8, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
Thanks for that Pierre Allain article Marlow. Quality stuff, I love this thread. Great vids too.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 11, 2014 - 04:58pm PT

Fontainebleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:10pm PT

Five different problems 5a-6a at Bas Cuvier
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
Who is the guy dressed in green? He never actually makes it up anything!!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
Andy

I guess the problems were selected by one of the others... I wonder by whom? Lol...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 25, 2014 - 05:24pm PT

E4 meets Fontainebleau
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT

Posted by Randisi on Blakey's Pierre Allain thread and deserving a place on the Fontainebleau thread:

Alpinism and Competition
Chapter 11
Fontainebleau


What would the Parisian alpinist be without "Bleau"? Without the Sunday climbs on Bellifontaine sandstone? Very diminished, no doubt. Outside of Paris, beautiful limestone cliffs are found just about everywhere – and of impressive dimensions: the Dijonnais, the Calanques, the Ardennes, the Saussois… But us, we have our little rocks at Franchart, la Dame Jeanne, the Puiselet, Malesherbes, Cuvier. Cuvier, above all – that sacrosanct sanctuary, the very locus where free climbing is pushed to the maximum of current difficulty (let's not commit the future!).

Here the routes – which are a great many, maybe five hundred for Cuvier alone, with a third being truly difficult – aren't measured in tens or hundreds of meters. Our scrubbing pan rocks, as a certain Chamonix guide defined them, are only a few meters tall. It's this that appeals to us and makes for the excellence of this school of climbing. With no need for laying out ropes, no long waits to tackle this or that difficulty, we move quickly from one to the other – only fatigue stops us and compels us to slow down.

On these small rocks, quite close to the ground, we can let ourselves go, and – dare I say – outstrip the limits of our potential: the falls are of no consequence. If need be, we can try a given hard start twenty times in a row, learning by means of this, with exactitude, the friction limits between rock and rubber, learning to sense precise balancings, to trust incredibly small holds and in this way acquire qualities of a climber that are superior to those given by any other major school rock-climbing.
Not that it isn't useful from time to time for the Bleausard to go and put his knowledge to the test, to come into contact with long and sustained routes and get accustomed to the impressive verticality of the limestone cliffs.

I hold it to be true that at the present moment, in free climbing, our best climbers can equal, on their terrain, the best high limestone massif specialists and that the converse is not the case. To date, no climber who is a stranger to Bleau has succeeded and far from it in surmounting our greatest difficulties.

But, you'll tell me, the majority of the best alpinists don't frequent your "Bleau," and we've seen a number of Bleausards who were hardly brilliant in the mountains.

Of course, but it's only a question here of pure rock-climbing; the mountains are much more complex. Many qualities are needed besides those required by rock-climbing, and being a brilliant rock-climber serves little when morale or route-finding ability for example are lacking. Ice experience and technique also have to be acquired, and this is what the Bleausard lacks most often.

Of all the qualities the mountains demand of the alpinist, it's the weakest one that limits the alpinist's pretensions, in the image of the chain that's no stronger than its weakest link. But since there's nothing preventing chance from bestowing the necessary gifts from time to time upon Parisians, having perfected their talent on our sandstone rocks can only be a positive advantage.

And to tell the truth it isn't solely with an eye to mountain routes that we visit Bleau and climb there, it's above all because we make a game of it, one that in and of itself arouses our passion. It's good training? All the better, but even if that weren't the case, for the majority of us nothing would have changed. Every week we would find ourselves, just as assiduous, just as persistent, climbing a route that resisted our assault, and just as satisfied when it finally succumbed through our efforts and technique. Like the games played in stadiums, there is rivalry among climbers, a friendly one, but a rivalry none the less. If, leaving the classics, we venture so far as to try one of "Cuvier's last great problems," and after many a "go" one of us triumphs over this prestigious four or five meter first ascent, he is momentarily just as proud as he would be had he just succeeded on some new route up the flanks of some great alpine summit. Whereupon, his friends get worked up for the second, the third, etc.

That's of no interest, you say? Perhaps, but the same goes for the tenth of a second taken off the time for the hundred meters, or the extra kilo lifted overhead by the weightlifter – a car or a crane can do much better!
To this passion for climbing, we can add the pleasures of camping and the benefits of thirty hours of clean air, during which, forgetting the cares of the office, workshop or sales counter, each Saturday we find once again and with the same intense satisfaction – you might even say the same need – the special atmosphere of our rocks and its group of habitués. This is where we often work out our summer projects and dare to speak of certain bogeymen, considering such ventures natural, even if it means revising our judgment once in the field, in accordance with a formula I have long made my own – audacity in conception, prudence in execution.

Translation by Randolph Burks
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 6, 2014 - 04:14pm PT

EVA Voiron - Fontainebleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 22, 2014 - 02:38pm PT

Fontainebleau - voyage au coeur de la forêt (voyage to the heart of the forest)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 27, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
Awesome, that quoted piece from Aplinist above is so great.


Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.





Magique!
Magique!
Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD


Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Apr 28, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.

Here's a few more.

Au Gres Des Trois Pignons
Au Gres Des Trois Pignons
Credit: Andy Fielding

Bleau De Gres Six
Bleau De Gres Six
Credit: Andy Fielding

Escalade "Hors-Pistes" A Fontainebleau
Escalade "Hors-Pistes" A Fontainebleau
Credit: Andy Fielding

Fontainebleau escalades et randonnees
Fontainebleau escalades et randonnees
Credit: Andy Fielding
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Apr 28, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
Team America just got back. Unreal place.

Team America
Team America
Credit: handsome B

Tw#t Roof
Tw#t Roof
Credit: handsome B

Family Affair
Family Affair
Credit: handsome B
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 28, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
Great additions to the magic forest thread...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 2, 2014 - 05:43pm PT

Bleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 9, 2014 - 04:52pm PT

Problem: La John Gill, 6a, at Apremont.
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