The Real Thing (Moon / Moffat video) is a nice introduction to Fontainebeau also if you can find a copy . Thanks for another small-stone thread on zee taco .
Fontainebleau is a fascinating place as its forest is also the birthplace of the "Barbizon School" of painting which became the approach to landscape painting that would eventually give us Impressionism. The fine art of bouldering and the fine art of painting all wrapped up in one venue! Those Frenchies are so civilized.
The blue at La Roche aux Sabons is certainly the most perfectly enjoyable day on the rocks I've ever had. Not considering ourselves boulderers, we stopped in at Fontainbleau only because of the sheer numbers of folks who told us not to miss it. We ended up rearranging our trip to spend a week+ there.
guidebook: "It is difficult to find adjectives to describe what this trail has to offer"
Hey Chris Mac - Here's an idea for the next edition of the Yosemite Bouldering Guides.... Circuits!!!! V-Easy thru V-Elite... I'm sure us Americans can handle putting these things together on our own, but I think it would be cool to have a guide for everything from easy jams, to moderate crimping, to stone cold-a$$ difficult highball circuits.. That would be cool, IMHO
Cool article, will definitely read further tonight!
Steve Grossman
These are beautiful photos. There is some great painting that comes out of this period as well: Daubigny, Corot and Theodore Rousseau. The "pictorialist" nature of your photos really imitates the "Barbizon School" of painting. If you enjoy those photos you'll love the artists I mentioned check them out and thanks.
I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there versus a 300 mile trip, with Seneca Rocks a couple hours from there and New River Gorge a couple hours in a different direction.
(Or the Gunk 2 hours from my driveway, and the Adirondacks 4-5 hours away, etc.)
A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.
Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.
Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
Crazy huh? Believe it or not, those are due solely to groundwater-surface water interactions, a process of "Eodiagenesis." Groundwater seeps along canyon edges deposited amorphous silica between the sand grains, cementing it together. The pore spaces are filled and the rock becomes impermeable, causing the groundwater to flow around the previously cemented area. In fact, the porosity of the Fontainebleau sandstone is less than 1%, much lower than most other sandstone. The overlapping lobes potentially represent seasonal (or longer period?) climatic fluctuations.
The Fontainebleau Sand has never been buried greater than about 80m. Under the pomme de terre fields, the same geologic unit is nothing but loose sand. Many other siliciclastic rocks with any integrity (e.g. most of the SE sandstones) are formed at much greater depths and experience higher pressures and temperatures.
I have some samples and I will be making thin sections for a transmitted light microscope. I will post pictures when I get around to it. I'm also scheming on a plan to do a post doc in Fontainbleau...
Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
Castle is about 1/5 the size of any single classic area at Fontainbleau. There are 6 ultra classic Bleau areas I can name off the top of my head, 10 areas that aren't Bleau classics but far superior to anything in the states, and several areas I haven't seen despite 3 visits.
Also, Castle is cemented by calcite, which dissolves in rainwater and causes the holds to break or deteriorate. That does NOT happen at Fontainebleau because the cement is silica. Bleau stone also has > Castle
I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.
My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
The Frogs generally don't recognize the word "Font" as representing their forest and prefer the term "Bleau." At least according to an old Bleausard who explained that to me in a somewhat condescending tone. I think the masses of young US climbers have probably exposed them to "Font"... but they will most likely deny having ever heard the word. FYI
It's nice to see shots of the climbing that are not magazine picks. Thanks to all.
All this only adds to the aura of those woods. Someday...
Wes -- appreciate the explanation of geology, even if it seems the mystery lingers. No pressure? I'll wait for your thesis to make it all clear. Then we shall address you as Doctor Bleau.
Here's one of Bob Williams from the late sixties cross-posted from Jello's '57 climbing thread
What is striking is the lack of chalk on the rock in those pre-chalk days. But what isn't visible is that the French use of rosin (pouf) was in some ways more defacing, because the rosin transferred seemingly permanent black stains from shoe rubber to footholds. Still, the awful white smears everywhere in the more recent photos is quite jarring.
Note too the little square of carpet ( le tapis ) that was a 'Bleau essential for keeping the sand off the soles of your shoes. In the other post I joking referred to it as an old-school crash pad.
Here's another one of Bob Williams. Note the white dot---I think we were on one of the circuits.
Fontainbleau is a truly magical area---I don't think any climber, no matter how peblophobic, could go there and not become entranced with bouldering. And ze french grimpeurs! Not only did we find them to be incredibly hospitable, but the checkered picnic cloths, the wine and cheese, and (ahem) bikini-clad bouldering babes were, how you say, fantastique!
A video showing the forest and some of it's stones very well. An ordinary day with climbers climbing at a low to moderate level.
The problems of the circles of Font are marked with colour. You have the easiest white problems - then the yellow (jaune) problems - the green (vert) ones - the blue (bleu) - the red and at last - the hardest black problems. Some places there are problems harder than the black ones marked with white colour.
You may have three different blue circles in the same area - Apremont is an example. Then the painted shade of blue of the three circles are different.
The guys in this video are primarily climbing blue problems. They are talking Swedish.
I'm not much into bouldering but I wouldn't mind a week in Font. Its an amazing experience but you get pretty humbled coming there, I had to try two or three times to get up a Font 2B. Later when spending a few hours trying to get up the ultra classic La Marie Rose, 6A without luck, an elderly french gentleman strolls up, says "Bonjour", puts a bit of pof on his shoes and does it without a wobble.
I've also had that experience. A local in his 60ies with his backpack easily climbing a problem I have been struggling with and continuing up the next problem effortlessly. And the young guns/bleausards cruising around on the stone talking about us northerners as "tres serieux" when we struggle on their warm-up problems and then "allez, allez" on our next try. LOL...
La Marie Rose - the first 6a climbed in the forest:
Thanks for all the videos, especially of the more moderate routes that I can do...
As said several times up thread, I think many Americans don't realize how truly vast Bleau is. Most of the media attention is on just a few of the areas, and there are probably more than a hundred, each with 100's of problems. This is of course due to the geological bounty as well as the long history and the proximity to Paris, as well as the absence of other options close by. It is hard to think of such a good climbing area so close to a major metropolitan area. It's just 50km from the center of Paris...
I once had a friend tell me the only thing expensive about climbing was the tickets to get there. The fascination to go to new places and experience new things has somehow been lost on johnny come lately climbers.The nostalgia for new people, experiences, fresh ideas and challenges are what I've always loved and will always want from climbing. I want to go to there...............
Your memory serves you well, Marie Rose was ONE of the problems Ondra slipped off. The other one was Angle Allain, which is even easier (originally 5+ or V2?). And certainly easier than the stuff he did send/OS/flash in the same outing.
@Kenygl I had a similar feeling for Yosemite this year and in my 50th year I finally made it. I have been to Font many times and probably take it for granted. If bouldering is also your thing then you will not be disappointed. It's also very close to Paris so you can do the touristy bit and climb at the same time. Hope you make it.
I love Paris, Jennie (who lived in NIce for three years in the mid-1970s after fleeing Ireland) loves Provençe, and I worked in a winery there (Chateau Montaud, Domaines Ravel, Pierrefeu-du-Var).
Now back to the Fontainbleau, I only bouldered there once. But an article by an author with the surname French leaves me suspect to the objectivity of such an article. Okay, hah hah just joking, good article and well written.
sooo torn between Fontainebleau and a (much cheaper and rope filled) road trip in the states this year. decisions decisions decisions... been to Fontainebleau 3x and just can't get enough... but $$$$$$$ and time and $$$$ and dogs and $$$$ and time....
That's one of the great things in Bleau. Bouldering in Bleau can be just as difficult as you'd like it to be, and so many circuits throughout the forest are dedicated to beginners, or there are even those especially put up for small children.
Globally speaking, bouldering can be frustrating if you're not... say at least at Fb 6a level, but in Bleau, you'll find everything - harder stuff or easier problems.
It really is. Many probs of all difficulties. Easy, intermediate and hard circuits. Cool landings. And the closeness to the Bois-le-Roi train station makes it possible to enjoy half-day outings there, starting from Paris. I'd often go there early in the morning, enjoying the forest waking up... birds, squirrels, wild boars, deer.
It can take one just one hour from the departure from Gare de Lyon (Paris) to Rocher Canon. Trains to and fro - like every hour. And you can even take a bike along on the train (bike rentals around Gare de Lyon).
for me the best spot in Font was Cuvier or something like that. It's just beside the road, with millions of boulders, nice scenery and excellent climbing :)
I refused to use pof when I was there. It CLEARLY alters the texture of the rock. It fills in all the pore spaces with resin, which will NOT come off without the use of a solvent other than water. The result is a smooth, glassy surface with a much lower frictional coefficient. The only way to stick is to use more pof.
Magnesium carbonate (gym chalk) washes off with water and more importantly is EASILY brushed off to regain the original texture... Bleau is all about texture.
My understanding is that the locals don't like chalk because it is "ugly." Which is apparently why they saw fit to scribble "STOP MAGNESIA" in red marker or lipstick or something at the base of Toit de Cul de Chien and other classic problems last time I was there.
^^^ Nice share!
I've used pof (resin) and still would, but sparingly, mostly to help out with sole adhérence on polished smears. Often apply it on the rubber and 'rub' it in till it squeaks.
I'll be using magnesia on limestone - just can't get used to it on Bleau sandstone.
Not a French jail. This is another controversial and highly emotional topic and it's hard to have a rational discussion without some nationalism creeping in on both sides of the debate. Briefly, pof is dried pine tree resin that French Font climbers wrap up in cloth and smack the rock with to increase adherence. Some French climbers use it instead of chalk - usually older ones; most use both now.
CON: it's cheating; it makes the holds polished and glassy; you need more pof once a hold has been poffed, creating a vicious cycle; it makes the holds black and look like crap. Old French guys use it who climb harder than me. If you use it outside Font you risk bodily harm.
PRO: it's natural; isn't as visible as chalk; pof may prevent the surface erosion of the sandstone "skin" above the crumblier sandstone underneath; its use is recommended over chalk by COSIROC, the local climbing governing body, its use is recommended over chalk by bleau.info website; it annoys the British."
From Oslo: Around 1000 miles. Time by train: 24 hours. Driving a car: 20 hours. Flying: 2,5 hours.
I'm off to Font in the near future climbing with someone bouldering problems not far from my own level. I'm too competitive to climb with someone far above my own level... Lol...
This is what they have to say about when to go there:
"Anytime really - that's the truth. Traditionally people say spring and autumn, but winter can have perfect conditions (February is the driest cold month) though it can get bitter cold. People complain about the summer heat and humidity but plenty of hard climbing gets done in the summer, such as Jackie Godoffe's 8b projects in Orsay this summer, and the 7c+ Fahrenheit 91.4 put up by Thierry Gueguen in July. In the summer heat though most people just reduce their grade and do circuits, or climb early and late and siesta in the hot middle of the day.
You can expect to have some rain at any time, but this shouldn't be a big problem because you probably need a rest day anyway. Actually many areas dry extremely quickly, generally if they are high up on the slopes of the numerous little hills (pignons) in the forest, such as 95.2, Apremont, Gorge des Chats. As you get closer to the time of your trip, take a look at bleau.info which has the best links to online weather resources, but what are you going to do? Cancel? May is the rainiest month but not by much. You shouldn't really rule a trip in or out based on the time of year unless you really need it to be cold for a difficult project."
I love the way this thread has filled out thanks to Marlow and everyone else!
We are creating something truly unique on this forum with respect to climbing history and it would be spectacular if folks put their energy into that aspect of being here.
The supertopo forum has broad reach so SHARING yields big rewards.
Do what YOU can to make this forum a better place.
Here's a couple of pictures from my first visit to Font. It was 1988 (hence the shorts!!) and I was 27. Did the Orange circuit at Bas Cuvier. In the days before bouldering mats the card board is just to keep the sand off my rock boots. I had a pair of Calanques which were a cheap version of EBs here in the UK.
1988 - Bas Cuvier, Orange No. 50 La Prestat, in the days before bouldering mats.
It's a great Finnish Font video that came drifting on the web. I believe Toni LilQuest is the music maker (and not Lil Quest): h^^ps://soundcloud.com/lilquest
Yeah Andy, I also did that orange circuit @ Bas Cuvier. I only had 3 days there but that one in particular is one of my most memorable days of climbing, pure fun factor. Thanks for the pics.
Hey Marlow I have some more of those papers (some in English) if you are interested. I am an Engineering Geologist by trade and have corresponded with Medard Thiry who is based at the Ecole des Mines de Paris. He has written several papers on the subject.
Nice collection, Frumy. The upper right Font guide was the first one I owned. I bought it at Au Vieux Campeur, Rue des Ecoles, in the latin quarter of Paris.
Let us know!