Fontainebleau - The Dream Forest of French Bouldering

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
From Mountain #89 Jan/Feb 1983 an excellent survey of the fabled boulders....










Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 29, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
Very cool that you have posted this, Steve. thanks tons. Fontainebleau is one of the parts of the Great Puzzle.

best to you and Mimi.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
Last >>
Nov 30, 2008 - 12:19am PT
The Real Thing (Moon / Moffat video) is a nice introduction to Fontainebeau also if you can find a copy . Thanks for another small-stone thread on zee taco .
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 30, 2008 - 12:26am PT
Thanks Steve, great post. Going bouldering in Fontainebleau is one of my major goals.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Nov 30, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Fontainebleau is a fascinating place as its forest is also the birthplace of the "Barbizon School" of painting which became the approach to landscape painting that would eventually give us Impressionism. The fine art of bouldering and the fine art of painting all wrapped up in one venue! Those Frenchies are so civilized.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 11:33am PT
It has to be the most intriguing and historically rich bouldering area anywhere.
brett

climber
oregon
Dec 1, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
The blue at La Roche aux Sabons is certainly the most perfectly enjoyable day on the rocks I've ever had. Not considering ourselves boulderers, we stopped in at Fontainbleau only because of the sheer numbers of folks who told us not to miss it. We ended up rearranging our trip to spend a week+ there.

guidebook: "It is difficult to find adjectives to describe what this trail has to offer"

amen
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Any snapshots???
Marek

climber
Haarlem
Dec 3, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
I live 550 km from Fontainebleau but it is the climbing area I visit the most often.

All the info/picture/movies you need at:

http://bleau.info/

klk

Trad climber
cali
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
Unfortunately, I lost all my Bleau photos a few years back. I may get a quick trip in around the end of March-- if so, I'll do a tr.

Meanwhile, this article over at UKC is a decent historical overview:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1478

Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Dec 3, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
That is kick A$$!!!!

Hey Chris Mac - Here's an idea for the next edition of the Yosemite Bouldering Guides.... Circuits!!!! V-Easy thru V-Elite... I'm sure us Americans can handle putting these things together on our own, but I think it would be cool to have a guide for everything from easy jams, to moderate crimping, to stone cold-a$$ difficult highball circuits.. That would be cool, IMHO

Cool article, will definitely read further tonight!

Thank you Steve.. Priceless find!
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Dec 3, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
Mr. Gill has a great page with nice pics of some of the problems.
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History2.0.html
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Dec 3, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
I passed thru and sampled some of those pebbles for an hour or so.
The place is vast and magical...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
A couple of very small photos by Gustave Le Grey from the late 1850's shot in Fontainebleau.



paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 8, 2008 - 12:20am PT
Steve Grossman
These are beautiful photos. There is some great painting that comes out of this period as well: Daubigny, Corot and Theodore Rousseau. The "pictorialist" nature of your photos really imitates the "Barbizon School" of painting. If you enjoy those photos you'll love the artists I mentioned check them out and thanks.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Dec 8, 2008 - 12:41am PT
Bleu does suck

Its the stonie point of France.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
Some more background on the area from Climbing 1982.



marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 7, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
Fontainebleau is French for "Ripped Seniors":


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
Nice Chalk Chickenfeet!
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Feb 8, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).

That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there versus a 300 mile trip, with Seneca Rocks a couple hours from there and New River Gorge a couple hours in a different direction.

(Or the Gunk 2 hours from my driveway, and the Adirondacks 4-5 hours away, etc.)
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 9, 2009 - 11:29am PT
"I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).

That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there . . . ."

True. 'Bleau could never compare with Seneca. You should stay home.
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Feb 9, 2009 - 11:38am PT
klk, read more carefully. I did not compare it to Seneca Rocks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
International boulder bump!
klinefelter

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
Here's a little article from the wayback archives.
noshoesnoshirt

climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
Apr 5, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.

Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.

Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 5, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
Fountainbleau, 1976




Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
Nice photo, Marty!
klinefelter

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
Fantastic photo. Got more?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 5, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 5, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
tx 4 the pix wes.


i love elephant. all the parisians loathe the place, but f*#k 'em. plus chalet jobert across the street.

elephant noir and chalet jobert!

frickin heaven.

one of the very few places i might trade for the sierras.
Barry Bates

Boulder climber
Smith River CA
Apr 7, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
Barry Bates

Boulder climber
Smith River CA
Apr 7, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
weschrist

thanks for the clarification

Barry
Derek

climber
Apr 7, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.

My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.

I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.

-Derek
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 7, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
Marty,
Nice shot.
Mike G. and I were there that same year that you went, 1976.




Also returned the next year with Rob Muir who took this shot.


tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 7, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
cool link klinefelter, what else you got in the archive?
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 7, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
It's nice to see shots of the climbing that are not magazine picks. Thanks to all.

All this only adds to the aura of those woods. Someday...

Wes -- appreciate the explanation of geology, even if it seems the mystery lingers. No pressure? I'll wait for your thesis to make it all clear. Then we shall address you as Doctor Bleau.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
Perhaps Rgold has a few to share...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 23, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
Ok Steve,

Here's one of Bob Williams from the late sixties cross-posted from Jello's '57 climbing thread



What is striking is the lack of chalk on the rock in those pre-chalk days. But what isn't visible is that the French use of rosin (pouf) was in some ways more defacing, because the rosin transferred seemingly permanent black stains from shoe rubber to footholds. Still, the awful white smears everywhere in the more recent photos is quite jarring.

Note too the little square of carpet ( le tapis ) that was a 'Bleau essential for keeping the sand off the soles of your shoes. In the other post I joking referred to it as an old-school crash pad.

Here's another one of Bob Williams. Note the white dot---I think we were on one of the circuits.



Fontainbleau is a truly magical area---I don't think any climber, no matter how peblophobic, could go there and not become entranced with bouldering. And ze french grimpeurs! Not only did we find them to be incredibly hospitable, but the checkered picnic cloths, the wine and cheese, and (ahem) bikini-clad bouldering babes were, how you say, fantastique!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 11:00am PT
Thanks Rich!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 12:46am PT
Bouldering Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
A cropped Gerard Kosicki shot of Catherine Destivelle from Climbing October 1988.



The rest of the Destivelle profile at:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1276278/Catherine-Destivelle-Profile-by-Beth-Wald-Climbing-1988
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
A Ron Matous shot of the business from Summit February/ March 1980.

martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 22, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
bouldering in fountainebleau bitd
bouldering in fountainebleau bitd
Credit: martygarrison
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
Thanks, Marty!

Such a sweet looking problem!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 28, 2010 - 03:39am PT
Poke
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Ain't been bumped in years...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 18, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Ambiance Font

La balance - 7c+ - Cuvier - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=vzMTFtqXWOU

Ambiance Font 1 Roy Tore Fallaas
Ambiance Font 1 Roy Tore Fallaas
Credit: Marlow
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
Thanks for those video links Marlow!!!

Really gives you a feel for the place...cool stuff!
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 18, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
One of my kids at Bleau, sat in a pocket!

This bouldering stuff is so tiring good job there's a bivy ledge half ...
This bouldering stuff is so tiring good job there's a bivy ledge half way up.
Credit: Andy Fielding
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
Bump for ambiance...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 26, 2012 - 01:00pm PT

A video showing the forest and some of it's stones very well. An ordinary day with climbers climbing at a low to moderate level.

The problems of the circles of Font are marked with colour. You have the easiest white problems - then the yellow (jaune) problems - the green (vert) ones - the blue (bleu) - the red and at last - the hardest black problems. Some places there are problems harder than the black ones marked with white colour.

You may have three different blue circles in the same area - Apremont is an example. Then the painted shade of blue of the three circles are different.

The guys in this video are primarily climbing blue problems. They are talking Swedish.
Hannes

Ice climber
Mar 26, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
I'm not much into bouldering but I wouldn't mind a week in Font. Its an amazing experience but you get pretty humbled coming there, I had to try two or three times to get up a Font 2B. Later when spending a few hours trying to get up the ultra classic La Marie Rose, 6A without luck, an elderly french gentleman strolls up, says "Bonjour", puts a bit of pof on his shoes and does it without a wobble.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 26, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
Hannes.

I've also had that experience. A local in his 60ies with his backpack easily climbing a problem I have been struggling with and continuing up the next problem effortlessly. And the young guns/bleausards cruising around on the stone talking about us northerners as "tres serieux" when we struggle on their warm-up problems and then "allez, allez" on our next try. LOL...

La Marie Rose - the first 6a climbed in the forest:
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
Busy little bumps!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 8, 2012 - 11:22am PT
A tribute to bouldering in Fontainebleau
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 8, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
Never been to a place that you could have so much fun while learning so much at the same time.


Font could very well be the best climbing in the world, thanks everyone for the inspiration.


Magique.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
Video bump...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 18, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
Fontainebleau - friction and movement science



Easy circuit bouldering - Elephant/Rocher de la Justice-area
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 19, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Font - the vertical playground
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 21, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 24, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Bouldring Font 2012
http://vimeo.com/42217779
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 1, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Very nice addition Marlow!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 15, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Some easier problems


Family fun


Hard problems, Enzo Oddo, 16 at the time.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 18, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
Jacky Godoffe & Adam Ondra in Font: http://vimeo.com/35329118
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 1, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
30 min in heaven!
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
Sep 1, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Thanks for all the videos, especially of the more moderate routes that I can do...

As said several times up thread, I think many Americans don't realize how truly vast Bleau is. Most of the media attention is on just a few of the areas, and there are probably more than a hundred, each with 100's of problems. This is of course due to the geological bounty as well as the long history and the proximity to Paris, as well as the absence of other options close by. It is hard to think of such a good climbing area so close to a major metropolitan area. It's just 50km from the center of Paris...
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 1, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
yeah, nothing like it. beautiful area with amazing history and wild variety in the movement.

my favorite stone ever.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 17, 2012 - 04:32pm PT

Fontainebleau State of Mind - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwlQJ41Ano0&feature=player_detailpage
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 17, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 30, 2012 - 01:15pm PT


Andy: Yes, Jo Montchausse is a legend. He has also written one of the best all grade Font guide books: http://www.amazon.fr/Escalade-fontainebleau-beaux-sites-blocs/dp/2700311906/ref=sr_1_18?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1349042822&sr=1-18

Black: Some of the slopey friction problems grade 6a are 8b+ when wet. ;o)
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Sep 30, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
@ Marlow. 2:05 Jo Montchausse, legend. Thanks for posting the video.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 30, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Hannes and Marlow:

Isn't "La Marie Rose" the 6A problem that Adam Ondra slipped off the same day he flashed "Gecko Assis" 8B/+?
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Oct 1, 2012 - 10:32am PT
I once had a friend tell me the only thing expensive about climbing was the tickets to get there. The fascination to go to new places and experience new things has somehow been lost on johnny come lately climbers.The nostalgia for new people, experiences, fresh ideas and challenges are what I've always loved and will always want from climbing. I want to go to there...............
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Oct 1, 2012 - 11:06am PT
Hey BlackSpider,

Your memory serves you well, Marie Rose was ONE of the problems Ondra slipped off. The other one was Angle Allain, which is even easier (originally 5+ or V2?). And certainly easier than the stuff he did send/OS/flash in the same outing.

Sometimes you gotta take a whipping with pride.

Lasti
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Oct 1, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
@Kenygl I had a similar feeling for Yosemite this year and in my 50th year I finally made it. I have been to Font many times and probably take it for granted. If bouldering is also your thing then you will not be disappointed. It's also very close to Paris so you can do the touristy bit and climb at the same time. Hope you make it.

Andy
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:36am PT
Bouldring at a modest level and French cakes. Mile End Climbing Wall (London) in Font.
Borut

climber
french
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:26am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#267338
The Roche Hercule is close to the city of Fontainebleau. Trains to Fontainebleau leave Paris from the Gare de Lyon station every hour or so.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Die Bahn - the best place to start if you want to search for European trains (Paris Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon): http://www.bahn.de/p/view/index.shtml
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 19, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
L'Angle Parfait
http://vimeo.com/groups/font/videos/44061943

Un peu de Bleau
http://vimeo.com/groups/font/videos/50880514
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 21, 2012 - 04:49am PT
Maps starting with Gorges d'Apremont (just click on the red pointers to move to other areas): http://foret-fontainebleau.teria.fr/SiteFbleau/Cartes/GorgesdApremont.htm

Circles (pdf-files with circles): http://www.grimporama.com/francais/bleau/bl_circ.htm

The ethics of marking the problems and the circles: http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.no/2011/10/des-circuits-descalade-un-travail-de.html

Font with children 8-12: http://bleaumeconnu.free.fr/enfant.htm

The best info-source about bouldring in Font repeated: http://bleau.info/
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 21, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Fontainebleau, Gorges d'Apremont on old postcards
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Roy Tore Fallaas
Roy Tore Fallaas
Credit: Marlow

Gorges d'Apremont: a walk.
http://naulidor.over-blog.com/article-gorges-d-apremont-foret-de-fontainebleau-barbizon-99693453.html
Borut

climber
french
Oct 21, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#269374
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 22, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Fontainebleau - Gorges d'Apremont: Stones, their names and the inspiration behind their names: http://www.fontainebleau-photo.com/2012/09/les-gorges-dapremont.html

Example:
Grotte des Dryades
Grotte des Dryades
Une Dryade: A nymph protecting the forest
Une Dryade: A nymph protecting the forest
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 22, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
Fontainebleau: Romancing the stone. A lot of climbing, mainly problems grade 6a-7a from 7:50. http://vimeo.com/33497406
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 3, 2012 - 02:12pm PT

Life in Font. Mostly easy bouldring.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 5, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
Bump
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 25, 2012 - 06:10am PT
Font 2012 Two Weeks of Bliss
http://vimeo.com/53813431#
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 25, 2012 - 06:39am PT
I love Paris, Jennie (who lived in NIce for three years in the mid-1970s after fleeing Ireland) loves Provençe, and I worked in a winery there (Chateau Montaud, Domaines Ravel, Pierrefeu-du-Var).

Now back to the Fontainbleau, I only bouldered there once. But an article by an author with the surname French leaves me suspect to the objectivity of such an article. Okay, hah hah just joking, good article and well written.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Allez, les Bleausards
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
sooo torn between Fontainebleau and a (much cheaper and rope filled) road trip in the states this year. decisions decisions decisions... been to Fontainebleau 3x and just can't get enough... but $$$$$$$ and time and $$$$ and dogs and $$$$ and time....

3 wks in Font or 3+++ weeks driving around...



klk

Trad climber
cali
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
3 wks in Font or 3+++ weeks driving around...

if you have the calendar and the cash, how could that even be a choice?

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
I know, 3+ months on the road is pretty boring... whereas 3 weeks of wine, pastries, and perfect slopers is not.
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
and perfect slopers
Is there such a thing as a perfect sloper?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 19, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
Font Parkour

Mechrist's photos above show the remarkable surface you find on some of the stones.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 20, 2013 - 03:28am PT
Andy, if you have been to font you would know the answer!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 22, 2013 - 02:39pm PT

No hands
F'ueco

Boulder climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Jan 22, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
OMG, now I really want to go bouldering... Why am I stuck at work on a beautiful January day?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Elephant circle
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
Font 2011
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 1, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Fontainebleau Rock Flop
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 1, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in Fontainebleau
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 1, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
uhhhhhggggg! Decided to stay in the states... uhhhgggggg! This thread is torture!

a
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
ggggg!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Font feb 2011


Mechrist: Next year!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 10, 2013 - 04:54am PT
Fontainebleau - some of the excellent traverses (Vertical nov 1995)
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
^^^ ha, and five of them at Rocher Canon, nice and close to the Bois-le Roi train station.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 10, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Borut

Rocher Canon is great.

Another traverse - at Elephant


And one at Franchard Isatis


And an easy one


Something for everybody.

Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Something for evertbody.
That's one of the great things in Bleau. Bouldering in Bleau can be just as difficult as you'd like it to be, and so many circuits throughout the forest are dedicated to beginners, or there are even those especially put up for small children.
Globally speaking, bouldering can be frustrating if you're not... say at least at Fb 6a level, but in Bleau, you'll find everything - harder stuff or easier problems.

Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Rocher Canon is great.
It really is. Many probs of all difficulties. Easy, intermediate and hard circuits. Cool landings. And the closeness to the Bois-le-Roi train station makes it possible to enjoy half-day outings there, starting from Paris. I'd often go there early in the morning, enjoying the forest waking up... birds, squirrels, wild boars, deer.
It can take one just one hour from the departure from Gare de Lyon (Paris) to Rocher Canon. Trains to and fro - like every hour. And you can even take a bike along on the train (bike rentals around Gare de Lyon).


Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Feb 11, 2013 - 08:12am PT
A relevant link......

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1957536&msg=1957536#msg1957536

Steve
poli

climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 12, 2013 - 04:31am PT
for me the best spot in Font was Cuvier or something like that. It's just beside the road, with millions of boulders, nice scenery and excellent climbing :)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Climbing at Bas Cuvier. You can see the blocks and the landings.

Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Yes, I guess Cuvier rules in Bleau (Bas-Cuvier + Rempart). There you'll find everything.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 12, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
Just wondering: Do they still use rosin at 'bleau? If you don't use it, then you must to do some of the problems? They won't go without it?

Gosh, this place looks so much like Castle Rock State Park I almost want to say I know which problems they're doing . . .
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 12, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
I refused to use pof when I was there. It CLEARLY alters the texture of the rock. It fills in all the pore spaces with resin, which will NOT come off without the use of a solvent other than water. The result is a smooth, glassy surface with a much lower frictional coefficient. The only way to stick is to use more pof.

Magnesium carbonate (gym chalk) washes off with water and more importantly is EASILY brushed off to regain the original texture... Bleau is all about texture.

My understanding is that the locals don't like chalk because it is "ugly." Which is apparently why they saw fit to scribble "STOP MAGNESIA" in red marker or lipstick or something at the base of Toit de Cul de Chien and other classic problems last time I was there.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
sans pof

Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
^^^ Nice share!
I've used pof (resin) and still would, but sparingly, mostly to help out with sole adhérence on polished smears. Often apply it on the rubber and 'rub' it in till it squeaks.
I'll be using magnesia on limestone - just can't get used to it on Bleau sandstone.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
"Will I go to jail if I use Pof?

Not a French jail. This is another controversial and highly emotional topic and it's hard to have a rational discussion without some nationalism creeping in on both sides of the debate. Briefly, pof is dried pine tree resin that French Font climbers wrap up in cloth and smack the rock with to increase adherence. Some French climbers use it instead of chalk - usually older ones; most use both now.

CON: it's cheating; it makes the holds polished and glassy; you need more pof once a hold has been poffed, creating a vicious cycle; it makes the holds black and look like crap. Old French guys use it who climb harder than me. If you use it outside Font you risk bodily harm.

PRO: it's natural; isn't as visible as chalk; pof may prevent the surface erosion of the sandstone "skin" above the crumblier sandstone underneath; its use is recommended over chalk by COSIROC, the local climbing governing body, its use is recommended over chalk by bleau.info website; it annoys the British."

From: ukclimbing
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Explanation of the symbols used in the bouldring circles of Fontainebleau: http://www.cosiroc.org/spip.php?article43

Mechrist: Great video! Cool moves. Even the last lift. Lol...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 19, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
Allez! Allez!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Climbing shoes in Fontainebleau 1945
Climbing shoes in Fontainebleau 1945
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 1
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 1
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 2
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 2
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 3
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 3
Credit: Jean Feuillie
The photos are taken from Sylvain Jouty's excellent book: Bleau. La Foret de Fontainebleau et ses rochers. 1982.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 24, 2013 - 04:08am PT
Jule dreams of bouldring
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 24, 2013 - 04:21am PT
Marlow, sick stuff man! Those old photos are unreal!


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 2, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Fontainebleau Winter Sessions
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 2, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Love it! Maybe in the fall...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 5, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Font first week 2013
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 8, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
I'm cross posting this as it's relevant to several threads.

These are from 1948 it would seem
These are from 1948 it would seem
Credit: Blakey
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Blakey: TFPU. Could you tell us the story of the shoes?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
Climbing i Fontainebleau - in the beginning. (La Montagne Juin 1966)

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow

Blakey: Great Facebook site and interesting photos. I hope the next step is to organize and contextualize the photos better.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Hi Marlow,

I stumbled across them (the photo) on the Facebook site I posted up about the other day.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos_stream

There's no annotation other than ALLAIN 1948......

As I mentioned on the other thread there's quite a few older photos, of Comici for example that I've not seen elsewhere.

Regards,

Steve
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 8, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Thanks for that early history, Marlow!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 11, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Font January 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2013 - 03:54am PT
Finding friction
Jeffrey VanMiddlebrook

Boulder climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 17, 2013 - 04:05am PT
Wish I had known of that venue in 1982 when I was living in France and still climbing. Gorgeous.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 18, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
Fontainebleau February


Mechrist

From Oslo: Around 1000 miles. Time by train: 24 hours. Driving a car: 20 hours. Flying: 2,5 hours.

I'm off to Font in the near future climbing with someone bouldering problems not far from my own level. I'm too competitive to climb with someone far above my own level... Lol...
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 18, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Nice. How far from Oslo? Just curious... there is this job thingy... I might apply.
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 18, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Nice video Marlow. Love that move at 4:58.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 18, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Andy.

Cool move. The use of momentum and swing is an art.

And excuse me for hijacking Steve's thread. I will start a new one... soon.
Scott McNamara

climber
Tucson, Arizona
Mar 24, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Would anyone know the best season to go there?

Thanks!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 24, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Scott

Here is a link to ukclimbing's Font information: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1567

This is what they have to say about when to go there:

"Anytime really - that's the truth. Traditionally people say spring and autumn, but winter can have perfect conditions (February is the driest cold month) though it can get bitter cold. People complain about the summer heat and humidity but plenty of hard climbing gets done in the summer, such as Jackie Godoffe's 8b projects in Orsay this summer, and the 7c+ Fahrenheit 91.4 put up by Thierry Gueguen in July. In the summer heat though most people just reduce their grade and do circuits, or climb early and late and siesta in the hot middle of the day.

You can expect to have some rain at any time, but this shouldn't be a big problem because you probably need a rest day anyway. Actually many areas dry extremely quickly, generally if they are high up on the slopes of the numerous little hills (pignons) in the forest, such as 95.2, Apremont, Gorge des Chats. As you get closer to the time of your trip, take a look at bleau.info which has the best links to online weather resources, but what are you going to do? Cancel? May is the rainiest month but not by much. You shouldn't really rule a trip in or out based on the time of year unless you really need it to be cold for a difficult project."
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Marlow, I'm sure Steve doesn't mind. I sure don't :-)

One of the best threads going.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
And we'll always have Paris...

I love the way this thread has filled out thanks to Marlow and everyone else!

We are creating something truly unique on this forum with respect to climbing history and it would be spectacular if folks put their energy into that aspect of being here.

The supertopo forum has broad reach so SHARING yields big rewards.

Do what YOU can to make this forum a better place.
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Here's a couple of pictures from my first visit to Font. It was 1988 (hence the shorts!!) and I was 27. Did the Orange circuit at Bas Cuvier. In the days before bouldering mats the card board is just to keep the sand off my rock boots. I had a pair of Calanques which were a cheap version of EBs here in the UK.

1988 - Bas Cuvier, Orange No. 50 La Prestat, in the days before boulde...
1988 - Bas Cuvier, Orange No. 50 La Prestat, in the days before bouldering mats.
Credit: Andy Fielding

1988 - Bas Cuvier, Orange No. 50 La Prestat
1988 - Bas Cuvier, Orange No. 50 La Prestat
Credit: Andy Fielding
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Cool Andy.

Steve
I take that as: keep on posting.

Here's another video showing the excellent bouldring in the magic forest:

Scott McNamara

climber
Tucson, Arizona
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Thanks, Marlow!

and thanks Steve.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
That's a big 10-4 Marlow!
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 24, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Hey Marlow what is the music between 3:00 and 7:00? I know you say in the credits it is Lil Quest but I can't find that track anywhere.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
Andy

It's a great Finnish Font video that came drifting on the web. I believe Toni LilQuest is the music maker (and not Lil Quest): https://soundcloud.com/lilquest
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
Hey Marlow thanks for the link. That section is called Hip-pop Piano.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Yeah Andy, I also did that orange circuit @ Bas Cuvier. I only had 3 days there but that one in particular is one of my most memorable days of climbing, pure fun factor. Thanks for the pics.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 30, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Kids climbing in Font

Great ways to get down from the stone after topping out at 07:40 and 07:50.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 2, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
Autumn Colors (... in Spring)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 3, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
The formation of the stones of Fontainebleau (La Montagne Oct 1965)
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Apr 3, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Hey Marlow I have some more of those papers (some in English) if you are interested. I am an Engineering Geologist by trade and have corresponded with Medard Thiry who is based at the Ecole des Mines de Paris. He has written several papers on the subject.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Andy: It would be great to get the articles in English and post them for others to read. Do you have the opportunity to post them?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 3, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
A low profile TR with great Fontainebleau photos: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?page_id=264844
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Apr 3, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Marlow I have one of them with me. I'm at work!!

Weathering Font Page 1
Weathering Font Page 1
Credit: Andy Fielding
Weathering Font Page 2
Weathering Font Page 2
Credit: Andy Fielding
Weathering Font Page 3
Weathering Font Page 3
Credit: Andy Fielding
Weathering Font Page 4
Weathering Font Page 4
Credit: Andy Fielding
Weathering Font Page 5
Weathering Font Page 5
Credit: Andy Fielding
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 3, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Thanks Andy, that's phenomenal in both senses of the word...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 3, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
Cool Andy!! thanks dude!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 4, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Fontainebleau 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Fontainebleau - three not well known areas - Le Paradis, Chaintreauville and Les Mammouths (Grimper dec 04/jan 05)
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
The excellent Font guide "Escalade a Fontainebleau. Les plus beaux sites" has been updated.
Credit: Marlow
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Thanks so much for those articles! I read the earlier paper(s) by Thiry. I think they dealt with the smaller scale features.

Can't wait until I have time to read those.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 10, 2013 - 04:20pm PT

Monkey Missions.

May the friction be with you always!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 16, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Font 2013
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 25, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
Font 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 14, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
L'Arête du Boucher, 7a, Apremont

Barefoot bouldering
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 14, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 15, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
Apremont, Onde de choc


Nice collection, Frumy. The upper right Font guide was the first one I owned. I bought it at Au Vieux Campeur, Rue des Ecoles, in the latin quarter of Paris.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 18, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
The Fontainebleau forest - photography: http://www.croisons-nos-regards.fr/
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 18, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Marlow, ur a machine man. Thanks for always providing the French climbing porn, so inspiring that forest is.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 26, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
A gate at arrival - Roy Tore Fallaas
A gate at arrival - Roy Tore Fallaas
Credit: Marlow

91.1 Much climbing and a little photography.
91.1 Stones appearing
91.1 Stones appearing
Credit: Marlow
91.1 Soria Moria - Roy Tore Fallaas
91.1 Soria Moria - Roy Tore Fallaas
Credit: Marlow
91.1
91.1
Credit: Marlow
91.1
91.1
Credit: Marlow
91.1
91.1
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
91.1 On the stone to the right you find Le Flipper
91.1 On the stone to the right you find Le Flipper
Credit: Marlow
A video showing the climbing of Le Flipper

91.1 Lichens: An indication of a sound environment
91.1 Lichens: An indication of a sound environment
Credit: Marlow
91.1 A snake thriving in the sun, but afraid of heavy feet.
91.1 A snake thriving in the sun, but afraid of heavy feet.
Credit: Marlow

Bois-Rond has an excellent yellow/orange circuit. It's a great place to learn more about the friction and the movement. Much climbing.
Bois-Rond
Bois-Rond
Credit: Marlow
Bois-Rond. A path leaving the forest. Roy Tore Fallaas
Bois-Rond. A path leaving the forest. Roy Tore Fallaas
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 29, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Font May 2012
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 4, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
More of the Magic 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 6, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
Fontainebleau - a part of it's history
Credit: Marlow

Snakes in the forest
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 12, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Bleau and Bleausards 1999 (The film is texted in English)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Ambiance Font

The young one's climbing and playing
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 17, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Gargantoit Assis
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 24, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Fontainebleau 2013

AO Kranj
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 26, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels

Is he happy or is he happy?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
La Roche Qui Pleure
La Roche Qui Pleure
Credit: Sylvain Jouty, Bleau.
Le Pharamond 1909
Le Pharamond 1909
Credit: Sylvain Jouty, Bleau.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 26, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Nice bouldering, nice lichens...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 26, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
The incredible structure of some of the stones in Fontainebleau:
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 27, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Walking in the magic forest - Trois Pignons area:
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 28, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
The birds of the forest have got their own book: Les Oiseaux Du Massif De Fontainebleau Et Ses Environs
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
The Eurasian Wren
The Eurasian Wren
Credit: Marlow
The Eurasian Wren singing:

The Woodlark
The Woodlark
Credit: Marlow
The Woodlark singing:
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 28, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Neil Hart: Out Of Sight

Fontainebleau timelapse
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 30, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
How to top out in Fontainebleau
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 21, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Trains passing through the forest
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 4, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
Fontainebleau - Special Ones


Edit: Dr. Christ - and I'm just keeping my dream alive...
Dr. Christ

Mountain climber
State of Mine
Aug 4, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
I want to live closer!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 16, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Adam Ondra in Font filmed by Alvi Pakarinen


Among the problems he climbs is Dave Graham's "Satan i helvete" - Norwegian for "Satan in hell". The Norwegian word "hell" by the way, can be translated to the English word "luck".
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 22, 2013 - 03:31pm PT

Font: Endless brilliant bouldering - Fænsi Sh#t & Spicy Piz

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:26pm PT

Fontainebleau on old postcards

Desert d'Apremont
Desert d'Apremont
Credit: Marlow
Gorges de Franchard - Le Sphinx des Druides
Gorges de Franchard - Le Sphinx des Druides
Credit: Marlow
La Mare aux Fees
La Mare aux Fees
Credit: Marlow
La Mare aux Pigeons
La Mare aux Pigeons
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:30pm PT

The central part of Fontainebleau city

La Grande Rue
La Grande Rue
Credit: Marlow
Entree de la Rue Grande
Entree de la Rue Grande
Credit: Marlow
La Grande Rue et l'Eglise
La Grande Rue et l'Eglise
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 8, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Fontainebleau, one week bouldering in the forest
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Foret de Fontainebleau - Rétrospective 2012



The song: "Yosemite" - Jill Zimmerman
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 20, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
TSAC Bleau Pasen 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 27, 2013 - 03:53pm PT

Une Journée à Buthiers
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 7, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Font fun...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 9, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Parkour, naturally


"This film is dedicated to our friends Joonas "Joenkkoe" Purastie & Mikko "Zeecos" Pirinen.

"The object of parkour is to get from one place to another in the most efficient way possible using only the human body and the objects in the environment"(wikipedia).

10 runs by Naïm L'1consolable & Florian Tissier, in Fontainebleau (France).Recorded in March 2011."
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 15, 2013 - 01:53pm PT

Fontainebleau, spring 2013

Filmed by Juho Mäkinen
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 26, 2013 - 03:06pm PT

L'Angle Allain 5+, Cuvier Rempart
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 28, 2013 - 05:19pm PT

Out of Sight Teaser

Among them Jo Montchausse in action...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 10, 2013 - 02:39pm PT

Fontainebleau sept/oct 2013
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
Thanks Marlow.


Looking forward to "Out of sight".
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 12, 2013 - 11:39am PT
Keep it going Marlow, there's some great stuff in here.

Steve
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 13, 2013 - 04:18pm PT

Dynamic Rock Font Trip 2010
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Nov 13, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Thanks Marlow. Font is a great place and that's a nice video.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 20, 2013 - 03:33pm PT

Back to Franchard

Chloé Caulier, 16 years old.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:50pm PT

Grains de poussiere 7a, Franchard Point de Vue

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 29, 2013 - 01:17pm PT

We Love Fontainebleau
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:10pm PT

Maison Bleau
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 27, 2013 - 04:32pm PT

The Font' Diary : November 2013
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Dec 27, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Thanks Marlow, great finish to the video.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
The Font Diary is sweeeeet!

Love that first egg problem!

I used to have to nudge this thread along but starting with Ambience Font 3/18/2012 it has become the Marlow Show!

Thanks for parking so many great videos here and creating a fantastic resource.

Have A Happy And Fabulous New Year!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 24, 2014 - 05:46pm PT

Pierre Allain is part of the Fontainebleau climbing history. This is an article by Yves Ballu, in Mountain 62, 1978.
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
The article has been posted before on another thread by Blakey.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 2, 2014 - 03:49pm PT

Bouldering in the Font

Psycho top-out at 1:10-1:50... ;o)
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 2, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
that graviton sequence is like blackmail material.

nice determination. but if someone had that footage of me, i'd hunt it down and burn it.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Feb 2, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
^^^ Yeah. Poor Amber - what price difficulty exacts . . .
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
If ever there was an argument to be made against heel hooks...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 3, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
that graviton sequence ...
I like the creativity.
How often do you see inverting on face to snag a toe hook top out?
She is mock celebrating anyway, not claiming.
I learm more technique from my weaknesses than my strengths -

(if I had any strengths).
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 24, 2014 - 02:23pm PT

Be crushes Font in 3 days
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2014 - 04:45pm PT

Bouldering @ Fontainebleau

13:25 Problem: Salathe Wall

Fonturist.no: http://www.fonturist.no/fontainebleau-uten-bryderi
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 8, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
Thanks for that Pierre Allain article Marlow. Quality stuff, I love this thread. Great vids too.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 11, 2014 - 04:58pm PT

Fontainebleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:10pm PT

Five different problems 5a-6a at Bas Cuvier
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
Who is the guy dressed in green? He never actually makes it up anything!!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
Andy

I guess the problems were selected by one of the others... I wonder by whom? Lol...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 25, 2014 - 05:24pm PT

E4 meets Fontainebleau
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT

Posted by Randisi on Blakey's Pierre Allain thread and deserving a place on the Fontainebleau thread:

Alpinism and Competition
Chapter 11
Fontainebleau


What would the Parisian alpinist be without "Bleau"? Without the Sunday climbs on Bellifontaine sandstone? Very diminished, no doubt. Outside of Paris, beautiful limestone cliffs are found just about everywhere – and of impressive dimensions: the Dijonnais, the Calanques, the Ardennes, the Saussois… But us, we have our little rocks at Franchart, la Dame Jeanne, the Puiselet, Malesherbes, Cuvier. Cuvier, above all – that sacrosanct sanctuary, the very locus where free climbing is pushed to the maximum of current difficulty (let's not commit the future!).

Here the routes – which are a great many, maybe five hundred for Cuvier alone, with a third being truly difficult – aren't measured in tens or hundreds of meters. Our scrubbing pan rocks, as a certain Chamonix guide defined them, are only a few meters tall. It's this that appeals to us and makes for the excellence of this school of climbing. With no need for laying out ropes, no long waits to tackle this or that difficulty, we move quickly from one to the other – only fatigue stops us and compels us to slow down.

On these small rocks, quite close to the ground, we can let ourselves go, and – dare I say – outstrip the limits of our potential: the falls are of no consequence. If need be, we can try a given hard start twenty times in a row, learning by means of this, with exactitude, the friction limits between rock and rubber, learning to sense precise balancings, to trust incredibly small holds and in this way acquire qualities of a climber that are superior to those given by any other major school rock-climbing.
Not that it isn't useful from time to time for the Bleausard to go and put his knowledge to the test, to come into contact with long and sustained routes and get accustomed to the impressive verticality of the limestone cliffs.

I hold it to be true that at the present moment, in free climbing, our best climbers can equal, on their terrain, the best high limestone massif specialists and that the converse is not the case. To date, no climber who is a stranger to Bleau has succeeded and far from it in surmounting our greatest difficulties.

But, you'll tell me, the majority of the best alpinists don't frequent your "Bleau," and we've seen a number of Bleausards who were hardly brilliant in the mountains.

Of course, but it's only a question here of pure rock-climbing; the mountains are much more complex. Many qualities are needed besides those required by rock-climbing, and being a brilliant rock-climber serves little when morale or route-finding ability for example are lacking. Ice experience and technique also have to be acquired, and this is what the Bleausard lacks most often.

Of all the qualities the mountains demand of the alpinist, it's the weakest one that limits the alpinist's pretensions, in the image of the chain that's no stronger than its weakest link. But since there's nothing preventing chance from bestowing the necessary gifts from time to time upon Parisians, having perfected their talent on our sandstone rocks can only be a positive advantage.

And to tell the truth it isn't solely with an eye to mountain routes that we visit Bleau and climb there, it's above all because we make a game of it, one that in and of itself arouses our passion. It's good training? All the better, but even if that weren't the case, for the majority of us nothing would have changed. Every week we would find ourselves, just as assiduous, just as persistent, climbing a route that resisted our assault, and just as satisfied when it finally succumbed through our efforts and technique. Like the games played in stadiums, there is rivalry among climbers, a friendly one, but a rivalry none the less. If, leaving the classics, we venture so far as to try one of "Cuvier's last great problems," and after many a "go" one of us triumphs over this prestigious four or five meter first ascent, he is momentarily just as proud as he would be had he just succeeded on some new route up the flanks of some great alpine summit. Whereupon, his friends get worked up for the second, the third, etc.

That's of no interest, you say? Perhaps, but the same goes for the tenth of a second taken off the time for the hundred meters, or the extra kilo lifted overhead by the weightlifter – a car or a crane can do much better!
To this passion for climbing, we can add the pleasures of camping and the benefits of thirty hours of clean air, during which, forgetting the cares of the office, workshop or sales counter, each Saturday we find once again and with the same intense satisfaction – you might even say the same need – the special atmosphere of our rocks and its group of habitués. This is where we often work out our summer projects and dare to speak of certain bogeymen, considering such ventures natural, even if it means revising our judgment once in the field, in accordance with a formula I have long made my own – audacity in conception, prudence in execution.

Translation by Randolph Burks
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 6, 2014 - 04:14pm PT

EVA Voiron - Fontainebleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 22, 2014 - 02:38pm PT

Fontainebleau - voyage au coeur de la forêt (voyage to the heart of the forest)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 27, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
Awesome, that quoted piece from Aplinist above is so great.


Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.





Magique!
Magique!
Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD


Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Apr 28, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.

Here's a few more.

Au Gres Des Trois Pignons
Au Gres Des Trois Pignons
Credit: Andy Fielding

Bleau De Gres Six
Bleau De Gres Six
Credit: Andy Fielding

Escalade "Hors-Pistes" A Fontainebleau
Escalade "Hors-Pistes" A Fontainebleau
Credit: Andy Fielding

Fontainebleau escalades et randonnees
Fontainebleau escalades et randonnees
Credit: Andy Fielding
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Apr 28, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
Team America just got back. Unreal place.

Team America
Team America
Credit: handsome B

Tw#t Roof
Tw#t Roof
Credit: handsome B

Family Affair
Family Affair
Credit: handsome B
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 28, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
Great additions to the magic forest thread...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 2, 2014 - 05:43pm PT

Bleau 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 9, 2014 - 04:52pm PT

Problem: La John Gill, 6a, at Apremont.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 22, 2014 - 04:56pm PT

Good times in Fontainebleau 2014

Enty

Trad climber
Jul 31, 2014 - 12:04am PT
Had a few days there last week with Little Ent. Magic.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Fontainebleau-with-The-Nipper/t12481n.html

E
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 31, 2014 - 12:48pm PT

Enty.

Thanks for posting the link. I've stolen a photo to stimulate the clicking.

Canche aux Merciers
Canche aux Merciers
Credit: Enty
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 31, 2014 - 12:49pm PT

Fontainebleau en soleil - a summer in the forest
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Jul 31, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
Thanks Marlow. Love that dyno right at the end.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 31, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
That edit you posted from back in May is awesome Marlow, thanks!!
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Aug 8, 2014 - 03:11pm PT

http://vimeo.com/100836349

Reposted from UKC.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 12, 2014 - 10:31am PT

Andy.

That's a great video.

Here's Fontainebleau Parkour
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 17, 2014 - 11:36am PT

Peak Climbing Club in Fontainebleau

That's the spirit...............
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 7, 2014 - 08:37am PT

Tales From The Forest, Caroline Sinno
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
Yet another nice one, Marlow!

These have to be the most celebrated boulder problems in the world.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 7, 2014 - 01:45pm PT

Steve.

As you said in the title of the thread: The dream forest. I've dreamed there many times, though at lower grades... As soon as you know the area and are able to get around, bouldering there is really a dream...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 6, 2014 - 09:29am PT

Windmill - Franchard Raymond
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 20, 2014 - 01:25pm PT

Jus d'Orange, 7A+, Fontainebleau


My Nemesis!! Finally!! Everyone has a problem they come back to every year, especially at a place with so many classics as Fontainebleau, and this was mine...

Nat Tanzer
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Nov 20, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
^^^Nice short video. Roche aux Sabots is such a great place especially with the kids. There's a ring of boulders close to the car park with 40 routes in a circuit just for the kids to play on. The blue circuit was always pretty memorable for me. Thanks for posting.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 21, 2014 - 12:24pm PT

Andy.

The blue Circuit at Roche aux Sabots is excellent. Close to 50 problems.

Another circuit I remember well, is the orange one at Bois Rond. This circle has a great collection of cool and variable moves. With close to 40 problems, it has all the climbing I need for a day. It's lower graded than the blue circle at Roche aux Sabots, but doesn't feel that way.

Here's Orange problem number 2. Balance and careful foot placement is needed.

And here's blue number 33
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 7, 2014 - 07:37am PT

Fontainebleau and Kruder 2014
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 7, 2014 - 07:58am PT

When it rains in Font - Plan B
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Dec 8, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
^^^ Nice bouldering wall. She's got muscles on muscles ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Font has to be the most celebrated and photographed bouldering area in the world. I'm not out mining for bouldering footage but thanks to Marlow and company this thread is packed!
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Dec 9, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
Blue 38
Blue 38
Credit: Andy Fielding

Blue 38
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