Fontainebleau - The Dream Forest of French Bouldering

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 238 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
I refused to use pof when I was there. It CLEARLY alters the texture of the rock. It fills in all the pore spaces with resin, which will NOT come off without the use of a solvent other than water. The result is a smooth, glassy surface with a much lower frictional coefficient. The only way to stick is to use more pof.

Magnesium carbonate (gym chalk) washes off with water and more importantly is EASILY brushed off to regain the original texture... Bleau is all about texture.

My understanding is that the locals don't like chalk because it is "ugly." Which is apparently why they saw fit to scribble "STOP MAGNESIA" in red marker or lipstick or something at the base of Toit de Cul de Chien and other classic problems last time I was there.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 12, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
sans pof

Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
^^^ Nice share!
I've used pof (resin) and still would, but sparingly, mostly to help out with sole adhérence on polished smears. Often apply it on the rubber and 'rub' it in till it squeaks.
I'll be using magnesia on limestone - just can't get used to it on Bleau sandstone.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:14am PT
"Will I go to jail if I use Pof?

Not a French jail. This is another controversial and highly emotional topic and it's hard to have a rational discussion without some nationalism creeping in on both sides of the debate. Briefly, pof is dried pine tree resin that French Font climbers wrap up in cloth and smack the rock with to increase adherence. Some French climbers use it instead of chalk - usually older ones; most use both now.

CON: it's cheating; it makes the holds polished and glassy; you need more pof once a hold has been poffed, creating a vicious cycle; it makes the holds black and look like crap. Old French guys use it who climb harder than me. If you use it outside Font you risk bodily harm.

PRO: it's natural; isn't as visible as chalk; pof may prevent the surface erosion of the sandstone "skin" above the crumblier sandstone underneath; its use is recommended over chalk by COSIROC, the local climbing governing body, its use is recommended over chalk by bleau.info website; it annoys the British."

From: ukclimbing
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:22am PT
Explanation of the symbols used in the bouldring circles of Fontainebleau: http://www.cosiroc.org/spip.php?article43

Mechrist: Great video! Cool moves. Even the last lift. Lol...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Allez! Allez!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:36am PT
Climbing shoes in Fontainebleau 1945
Climbing shoes in Fontainebleau 1945
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 1
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 1
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 2
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 2
Credit: Jean Feuillie
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 3
Fontainebleau Climbing 1946 La voie de la Calanquaise 3
Credit: Jean Feuillie
The photos are taken from Sylvain Jouty's excellent book: Bleau. La Foret de Fontainebleau et ses rochers. 1982.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 24, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Jule dreams of bouldring
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 24, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Marlow, sick stuff man! Those old photos are unreal!


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Fontainebleau Winter Sessions
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Love it! Maybe in the fall...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
Font first week 2013
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 8, 2013 - 11:01am PT
I'm cross posting this as it's relevant to several threads.

These are from 1948 it would seem
These are from 1948 it would seem
Credit: Blakey
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Blakey: TFPU. Could you tell us the story of the shoes?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 8, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Climbing i Fontainebleau - in the beginning. (La Montagne Juin 1966)

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow

Blakey: Great Facebook site and interesting photos. I hope the next step is to organize and contextualize the photos better.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 8, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Hi Marlow,

I stumbled across them (the photo) on the Facebook site I posted up about the other day.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos_stream

There's no annotation other than ALLAIN 1948......

As I mentioned on the other thread there's quite a few older photos, of Comici for example that I've not seen elsewhere.

Regards,

Steve
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
Thanks for that early history, Marlow!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 11, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Font January 2013
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 17, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Finding friction
Jeffrey VanMiddlebrook

Boulder climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 17, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Wish I had known of that venue in 1982 when I was living in France and still climbing. Gorgeous.
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