Yvon Chouinard's AAJ 1966: Muir Wall

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hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 1, 2018 - 11:51am PT

Today it is perhaps difficult to appreciate how big a leap into the unknown this climb demonstrated.

1. It was the first time that a new route on El Cap had been climbed by a party of two, and I think only the second time that a party of two had been successful. (The second ascent of the Salathe was a two man party.)

2. It was also the first time that a new El Cap route had been climbed ground up without siege tactics (Nose and Dihedral), or lengthy previews/probes (Salathe and NA).

This was taking courage and commitment to a totally new level.

I think that the Muir was the fifth route on El Cap, although ^^^^^^ Steve mentions six.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2018 - 01:42pm PT
Five it is, not six. Don't know where that came from.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
May 22, 2018 - 09:40pm PT
We recently passed the 50th anniversary of the second ascent of the Muir Wall, and first solo ascent of El Capitan, by Royal Robbins. Late April 1968. Tamara let us look in her father's notes the other day, to confirm.

In Royal's account, his introductory remarks about spring being house-painting season in Modesto, working for his father-in-law who had a paint business, but nonetheless talking him into the time off, is classic wry Royal.
dh

climber
May 22, 2018 - 09:58pm PT
This was my first and only El Cap route; 1997. Hammerless until I ripped a big f&%king flake off around pitch 23 or so. Sank some pins after that near miss.

What a great 4 days.

Dave.
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