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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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There's a couple of really good, positive holds over the lip. I'll admit I was a little concerened with going over that mantel that day, as I'd never done it. Blaine told me there were a couple of good holds over the lip. I found them, used the super good foothold and it was over. And once you're over the mantel, the climb is literally over. Walk-off from there.
Give it a whirl next time you're up there. You got it, dude! No probs.
Give me a shout next time you're headed this direction. Seems like you're up here a lot lately. I'll come out and crag with you. :)
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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good to see people hitting up Tollhouse.
Personally I went down to Arrowhead Pinnacles and traded 95 degree weather and nice tall granite for 95 degree weather and single pitch quartzite, but still had a blast. If anyone is looking for a partner I'm in Visalia and wouldn't mind climbing up at TH soon.
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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I've always wanted to travel from el lay to the rocks above Fresno and finally got my chance this wknd, hitting Power Dome at Courtright on Sat. Due to the threatening rain we only did the first pitches of Welcome to Courtright (5.9+) and A Little Nukey (5.9), and Wichita Lineman (5.8). All were excellent. Rain threatened and threatened all afternoon, but we made it out without event. That night it rained hard all night at Trapper Campground, and I woke up in a lake (set my tent at the bottom of the campsite). Wet but no biggy. Bagged it and went home, although we talked about going to T.H., but the weather had already shook us. Wish we had gone, I'm psyched to go back.
We got off the 99 at Selma. Anyone know a better, more direct route to Tollhouse from the south?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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"We got off the 99 at Selma. Anyone know a better, more direct route to Tollhouse from the south? "
Huh? Why would you do that?! lol
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
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off memory, I believe it's 99 to 41 to 180 to 168. Or something like that.
Selma is the way old school way. I just had a flashback to Junior year highschool, running stopsigns in the fog on my way up to Summit.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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"off memory, I believe it's 99 to 41 to 180 to 168. Or something like that.
...running stopsigns in the fog on my way up to Summit. "
Snaps has it right - 99 to 41 to 168 will take you straight up. But I wasn't around pre-41. Even back in the day, not sure why you'd get off in Selma tho. If you're into country driving, getting off in Kingsburg for Academy Ave would be a much better bet. BITD, I'd think Temperence AVe, via Fowler would have been pretty good too. But now you'd have to drive through Clovis. But Selma? McCall dead-ends on Herndon....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 26, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Way to get some climbing in!
Awsome descriptions and pix of those climbs.
Mucci
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Aug 26, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Mrs. Mooch, a few years back, soloing the TT with the 5.7 slab finishing pitch....
Got bored one Saturday afternoon and ran the TT as a solo circuit.....8 times. Oh, yeah.....anyone up to beat my time (car-to-car.....starting at the Hang Glider slab on top) of 21 min. 12 sec.??
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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Here is another lady doing TT in a different way in 1981. She lead the whole thing in a full length evening gown and high heels. No harness, just a color matched swami belt. Let's see if I remember how to post images...
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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Bold solos in today's shoes are noteworthy, Mooch, but everybody does it. Where's the style, the artistic statement? Yours truly turning the corner on the Tollhouse Traverse alcove on cross country skis, cross country boots, and with ski poles. Followed the lady, 1981. Ya know, it made the climbing really awkward. Getting a climbing shoe stuck in the crack is one thing, getting a ski caught several times is much more of a problem. I didn't use the help of a tight rope, I free climbed each pitch on skis. It wasn't easy and my arms were pumped after getting to the top of this 5.5 route. It would be a hoot to see someone top this for a preposterous Tollhouse Traverse climb.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:27am PT
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Ropeboy- I think you figured out how to post to the Taco!
That may be the coolest photo I've seen!
With the ski's to Boot!
BWHAAAAAAA!!!!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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p.19 of the guidebook says :
"Historical note: Tollhouse Traverse was ascended in the early '70s by two climbers, one attired in a baseball uniform and baseball shoes with metal cleats, the other in a roller-derby costume complete with roller skates. About 10 years later, another party climbed the traverse; the leader wore a full-length evening gown, nylons and high heels, her partner followed on cross-country skis and ski poles."
Sounds like a good time :)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
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Ropeboy,
I'd told my daughters about your ascent for at least 20 years. Until these posts, they never believed me.
Thanks.
John
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Aug 31, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Herringbone technique? Which was harder, Mark, the skis or the skates? I must know. I was once halfway up Tis-sa-ack on my skis until I realized the beloved metal edges posed a danger as well as the means of ascent. Lucky I had my descent goggles handy. Will consider returning with wheels pending your recommendation.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 31, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Is ropeboy Mark Haymond? If so that is super cool. I have never seen the infamous Ballroom gown or ski getup, though its a thing of legend around here. Thanks for posting up! Did yall see my recent Wigged Out At Tollhouse TR. Check it out. Lets keep the TOLLCASA on the front page of the TACO.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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I must remember not to post TRs about my proud ascents of routes that other Taco
residents have sent in roller skates, high heels, or skis.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 31, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
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micro - yes, Mark Haymond. Super nice guy.
"Which was harder, Mark, the skis or the skates?"
I'd wager the skaets.
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 31, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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micronut...yep, already commented on your hilarious TT post
nefarius...brunosafari...skis were hardest. The skates, inspired by the Flatirons ascent, were clamp-ons lashed to my EBs. I could still use my toes on the rock so the skates were merely part of the costume and no real problem. But the skis were the real deal. That day I learned to bridge a ski across edges three feet apart, I could set the heel of the ski on an edge with the ski straight up and hang from the toe clip, and to avoid at all costs trying to cross one ski on top of the other.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 31, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Oh, duh. WHat I meant was the skis must have been harder. I was was figuring that with skaets you could still use your toes, and a lot of skates have a bumper stop in the front.
Skis must have been hard as hell!
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