Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 24, 2008 - 11:31am PT
|
Went climbing this past weekend with my friend Mike Z at [url="http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=151415">Tollhouse Rock[/url]. My friction technique was in need of a tune-up and generally I wanted to get out of the house after getting over the worst cold I have had in years.
We had climbed at this crag together numerous times over the past several years, so we had our routine down, though this was my first time back since breaking my neck last August in a car accident. Friday night we hiked in our gear from the road and camped atop the hang glider slab, as usual.
Saturday morning bright and early we went down to the practice slabs (climber's left of the descent trail) and took turns leading / following the bolted 5.7 routes. Mike led some 5.8 routes, but I wasn't feeling up to that level yet -- the last time I led a 5.8 was in August 2007, a couple of weeks before my accident but I followed ok.
Mike decided to lead the leftmost route on the slab, Taking a Bath With Strangers (5.8+) and I was surprised to see he had packed in a Batman cape & mask just for the occasion. Dammit, I'd forgotten to bring my camera down from camp ! He had led it several times before though, and though I thought he might trip on his cape, it went uneventfully.
From there we decided to head down to Elephant Walk (5.7), which I'd led before. I led the first pitch, which felt good. Mike followed and checked my gear, and then we rapped off.
Mike also wanted to lead Silly Wizard (5.8) which goes up to the Elephant Walk anchors, and I followed him on that.. the pro was thin .. tiny nuts, micro-cams and friction ! He also led the 5.8 right side finger crack variation of Elephant Walk's first pitch. We decided to call it a day.
Sunday dawned clear and a bit warmer.
We warmed up on the practice slabs again. I got the wild hair to lead one of the 5.8's. I took a lead slip clipping the first bolt, and then a fall after clipping it. I had some practice running backwards ! Maybe I'm not quite back up to leading 5.8's yet ..
I finished the route though (it was mostly 5.7 after the first bolt).
Mike led a 5.8 after that and we headed up to a slab above to see if he was up for settling an old score with a 5.8 he'd backed off before .. not today apparently :)
From there we headed over to Falling Star and I led the first 5.7 pitch. It felt good to lead this one again. The finger crack took offset nuts like a dream, and the little roof was eminently doable for me.
Mike led the first pitch of Knocking on Heaven's Door (5.8) which was good but reminded me I am not quite ready to lead 5.8's again yet.
We finished up by swapping leads on the classic Tollhouse Traverse, following the 5.7 friction variation to the top of the dome, for four full pitches. We topped out just as the sun was setting.
Good times with friends .. for me, that's what climbing is all about.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:35am PT
|
Welcome back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep at it
Jeff
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:37am PT
|
Glad yall had a good time. Thats my home rock. Give me a holler if you are ever in the area again. Do you guys live close? Lets give it up for Tollhouse!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:41am PT
|
She's not all that impressive, but still kinda pretty in the right light.
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
|
Micronut - that's a fine crag you have. We live in the south SF bay, and the drive is about the same as to Yosemite Valley.
A friend is recovering from breast cancer surgery and a hip replacement .. she is just getting back into climbing and I have been raving about the Tollhouse Traverse. I will shoot you a note the next time we are going to be around.
The very first outdoor technical (roped) rock climbing I did was at Tollhouse, on the practice slabs. Friction was the first kind of technique I learned really. I'm not good at it, but it's fun !
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
|
Well done rhyang.
Thanks for getting me out of the house!
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
|
good stuff!
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
|
Let me second Micronut's recommendation, and his offer. Tollhouse is a great place to spend time in the winter, and to practice friction techniques. I've been climbing there since 1970, and it was one of the reasons I chose to locate here.
John
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
|
Tollhouse = FUN
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
|
Thanks all !
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
|
Went to Tollhouse once and had a nice time.
Some 5.9 finger crack in a corner on the right side when facing the main rock:
More typical slab/friction on the main face somewhere:
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 12:36am PT
|
Rhyang,
Nice meeting you down at Steve's plywood anti-christ and great to see you getting out at the crags. Hopefully we can climb some time.
Take care,
Marty
|
|
enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 01:47am PT
|
I went there once and did Elephant walk and some other dirty 5.8
Conditions were Foggy
In fact, it got SO foggy at the end of the night, we got lost in the woods and couldnt find our way back to the car for about 2 hours. We even asked directions from a couple climbers who had a campfire, ended up doing a circle, and arriving back at their campfire...twice.
The boulder on the way out is KILLER!
|
|
tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 09:48am PT
|
Hey thats my home turf as well. Rhyang post up next time yer in town. Leave the Llama at home tho'.
Hey Micronut, how are you.
Mike B, that looks like Art Baker Memorial(1st photo).
Might be there this Thanksgiving weekend.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 10:11am PT
|
Awesome TR.
Hey Micronut, what's with all these photos of you climbing/hiking in the dark lately? Heh heh!
|
|
climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 11:18am PT
|
Nice!
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
|
Thanks Doug, Marty and Crimpie ! Fresno locals, we will be in touch .. heading out the door to climb plastic with my friend and talk up the Traverse to her some more - she may need some encouragement in overcoming the approach :)
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
|
I and a climbing buddy Justin were up at Courtright Reservoir over the weekend. We got a morning's worth of climbing in on Saturday.
5.7 crack on the Tiger Cage
I'd wanted to lead this for a while, and this time I did
We tr'd the 5.9 and 5.10-something climbs to the left of it.
Justin got some practice with placing cams on the 5.7 crack and I critiqued his placements. He's new to the game, but seemed to be picking it up pretty quickly.
Around 1:30pm we packed up and headed back to the car, and the drizzle started in earnest. We wandered around Wishon Reservoir, then returned to camp. Overnight the rain intensified. By morning we decided to bail.
As we headed down 168 we had an idea .. Tollhouse Rock ! Couldn't hurt to go have a look.
The rock was dry and while the weather looked iffy we figured it couldn't be too bad..
I led a couple of 5.7 bolted routes on the Saturday Slab, or whatever that practice area is called. Then we headed over to Elephant Walk (5.7) and headed up.
I hadn't been on the upper pitches of this climb for about four years. It was fun friction climbing. I hadn't brought the topo with me, and I think I veered left over to the anchor for Falling Star (5.8). We looked up at where the Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) goes left.
Is the original FA mantel where the crack joins the corner ? Or do you go up a ways to where the bolts are and mantel near there ? I tried it the former way back in June and that didn't seem 5.5 to me -- the latter seems more like it would be doable in the x/c skis of the day :)
Anyhow, we headed up the 5.7 friction finish to the top, five pitches from the base with a 60m rope. As we started our walk back to the car around 3pm the rain started.
Timing is everything !
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
|
"Is the original FA mantel where the crack joins the corner ?"
Yes, this is the original finish for the Traverse. The move going over the dihedral is def 5.5, at best. Dead easy. Should be no problem for you, Rob.
I'd never done this finish, and had always used the .7 friction finish, until Blaine and I soloed the Traverse together last year. We soloed the mantel over the dihedral. No biggee. I still prefer the .7 friction finish, however. Although, if it's windy or something, I may start using the 5.5 mantel when soloing, rather than the .7 friction.
"Or do you go up a ways to where the bolts are and mantel near there ? I tried it the former way back in June and that didn't seem 5.5 to me -- the latter seems more like it would be doable in the x/c skis of the day :) "
This sounds like the finish to Elephant Walk. 5.7 friction up the slab past a few bolts, mantel over the dihedral, where it rounds ove a bit, to a bolted anchor that has quick links on it. From there, walk-off to the digger pine up above.
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
|
Damn. Well, now I have to go back and figure out what I'm doing wrong :)
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
|
There's a couple of really good, positive holds over the lip. I'll admit I was a little concerened with going over that mantel that day, as I'd never done it. Blaine told me there were a couple of good holds over the lip. I found them, used the super good foothold and it was over. And once you're over the mantel, the climb is literally over. Walk-off from there.
Give it a whirl next time you're up there. You got it, dude! No probs.
Give me a shout next time you're headed this direction. Seems like you're up here a lot lately. I'll come out and crag with you. :)
|
|
snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
|
good to see people hitting up Tollhouse.
Personally I went down to Arrowhead Pinnacles and traded 95 degree weather and nice tall granite for 95 degree weather and single pitch quartzite, but still had a blast. If anyone is looking for a partner I'm in Visalia and wouldn't mind climbing up at TH soon.
|
|
Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
|
I've always wanted to travel from el lay to the rocks above Fresno and finally got my chance this wknd, hitting Power Dome at Courtright on Sat. Due to the threatening rain we only did the first pitches of Welcome to Courtright (5.9+) and A Little Nukey (5.9), and Wichita Lineman (5.8). All were excellent. Rain threatened and threatened all afternoon, but we made it out without event. That night it rained hard all night at Trapper Campground, and I woke up in a lake (set my tent at the bottom of the campsite). Wet but no biggy. Bagged it and went home, although we talked about going to T.H., but the weather had already shook us. Wish we had gone, I'm psyched to go back.
We got off the 99 at Selma. Anyone know a better, more direct route to Tollhouse from the south?
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
|
"We got off the 99 at Selma. Anyone know a better, more direct route to Tollhouse from the south? "
Huh? Why would you do that?! lol
|
|
snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
|
off memory, I believe it's 99 to 41 to 180 to 168. Or something like that.
Selma is the way old school way. I just had a flashback to Junior year highschool, running stopsigns in the fog on my way up to Summit.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
|
"off memory, I believe it's 99 to 41 to 180 to 168. Or something like that.
...running stopsigns in the fog on my way up to Summit. "
Snaps has it right - 99 to 41 to 168 will take you straight up. But I wasn't around pre-41. Even back in the day, not sure why you'd get off in Selma tho. If you're into country driving, getting off in Kingsburg for Academy Ave would be a much better bet. BITD, I'd think Temperence AVe, via Fowler would have been pretty good too. But now you'd have to drive through Clovis. But Selma? McCall dead-ends on Herndon....
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
|
Way to get some climbing in!
Awsome descriptions and pix of those climbs.
Mucci
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
|
Mrs. Mooch, a few years back, soloing the TT with the 5.7 slab finishing pitch....
Got bored one Saturday afternoon and ran the TT as a solo circuit.....8 times. Oh, yeah.....anyone up to beat my time (car-to-car.....starting at the Hang Glider slab on top) of 21 min. 12 sec.??
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:00am PT
|
Here is another lady doing TT in a different way in 1981. She lead the whole thing in a full length evening gown and high heels. No harness, just a color matched swami belt. Let's see if I remember how to post images...
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:20am PT
|
Bold solos in today's shoes are noteworthy, Mooch, but everybody does it. Where's the style, the artistic statement? Yours truly turning the corner on the Tollhouse Traverse alcove on cross country skis, cross country boots, and with ski poles. Followed the lady, 1981. Ya know, it made the climbing really awkward. Getting a climbing shoe stuck in the crack is one thing, getting a ski caught several times is much more of a problem. I didn't use the help of a tight rope, I free climbed each pitch on skis. It wasn't easy and my arms were pumped after getting to the top of this 5.5 route. It would be a hoot to see someone top this for a preposterous Tollhouse Traverse climb.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:27am PT
|
Ropeboy- I think you figured out how to post to the Taco!
That may be the coolest photo I've seen!
With the ski's to Boot!
BWHAAAAAAA!!!!
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 11:37am PT
|
p.19 of the guidebook says :
"Historical note: Tollhouse Traverse was ascended in the early '70s by two climbers, one attired in a baseball uniform and baseball shoes with metal cleats, the other in a roller-derby costume complete with roller skates. About 10 years later, another party climbed the traverse; the leader wore a full-length evening gown, nylons and high heels, her partner followed on cross-country skis and ski poles."
Sounds like a good time :)
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
|
Ropeboy,
I'd told my daughters about your ascent for at least 20 years. Until these posts, they never believed me.
Thanks.
John
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
|
Herringbone technique? Which was harder, Mark, the skis or the skates? I must know. I was once halfway up Tis-sa-ack on my skis until I realized the beloved metal edges posed a danger as well as the means of ascent. Lucky I had my descent goggles handy. Will consider returning with wheels pending your recommendation.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
|
Is ropeboy Mark Haymond? If so that is super cool. I have never seen the infamous Ballroom gown or ski getup, though its a thing of legend around here. Thanks for posting up! Did yall see my recent Wigged Out At Tollhouse TR. Check it out. Lets keep the TOLLCASA on the front page of the TACO.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
|
I must remember not to post TRs about my proud ascents of routes that other Taco
residents have sent in roller skates, high heels, or skis.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
|
micro - yes, Mark Haymond. Super nice guy.
"Which was harder, Mark, the skis or the skates?"
I'd wager the skaets.
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
|
micronut...yep, already commented on your hilarious TT post
nefarius...brunosafari...skis were hardest. The skates, inspired by the Flatirons ascent, were clamp-ons lashed to my EBs. I could still use my toes on the rock so the skates were merely part of the costume and no real problem. But the skis were the real deal. That day I learned to bridge a ski across edges three feet apart, I could set the heel of the ski on an edge with the ski straight up and hang from the toe clip, and to avoid at all costs trying to cross one ski on top of the other.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
|
Oh, duh. WHat I meant was the skis must have been harder. I was was figuring that with skaets you could still use your toes, and a lot of skates have a bumper stop in the front.
Skis must have been hard as hell!
|
|
Tahoe Bill
Trad climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 11:52am PT
|
I was thinking about making my 1st trip to Toll House Rock this weekend through tuesday, before thanksgiving
I know we are expecting some weather tonight, rain/snow in Tahoe. What will toll house be like, once the sun comes out on sat? Does it dry out fast?
How long is the approach from the GATE, to the top and then down to the famous Toll house traverse?
We will be camping on the road ,prior to the gate.
Any beta would be greatly appreciated. Im a long CAl Dome climber, and know the in's and out of that area well. I also know sometimes the smallest beta can safe alot of time and energy, at a new crag.
Namaste
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
|
I'm no local but I would bet TH will be fine for the weekend, sunday for sure. That rock gets a lot of sun. Have fun!
Jeff
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
|
The rock gets a lot of sun and usually dries pretty fast, maybe less so in the cracks.
We don't camp on the road -- there isn't much space. The gate may be locked. If spending the night we hike our sleeping gear up to the hang glider slab -- maybe about 15-20 minutes. It's a bit steep, but the exercise is good for ya :)
There is a third class descent from the slab, which can be brushy. Look out for ticks this time of year. You traverse skier's right along the base of the practice slabs (nice 5.7 - 5.8 bolted routes btw), then descend a ways on some more scrambly stuff, then traverse some more in a wooded area. There might be flags / ribbons to mark part of the way.
The start of the traverse has a large open ledge. I'd guess it's about 30-45 minutes from the car.
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151415/tollhouse-rock.html
It's primitive camping - no water and no toilets, so bring your trowel, etc. Should be supplies in Prather though (I like that new food mart :)
|
|
snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
|
Camping on the top is always fun too, although it'll put you on the other side of the rock from the traverse. If you go up a steep fire road as soon as you turn off the main road it'll take you up. If you have a high clearance 4x4 you can drive all the way up now. Awesome view to wake up to.
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
|
Got out there yesterday, and finished up on the Tollhouse Traverse. This time led the mantel, as per the original FA. Whew ! That was worth the price of admission :)
Doesn't look like much until you get up close and personal
|
|
| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!