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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Mar 13, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Thanks, splater.
Looks like you confirmed what I said. You did not read the article, but just the abstract.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Mar 15, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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bump
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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This is what started the climbing rubber chicken craze
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Those damn chickens are all rubbery at dinners. . .
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cahuac
Boulder climber
Mexico
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I am searching the web and everybody talks about chalk reducing friction and how many experiments they made. BUT. I have not found the most important fact, the static friction coefficient of hands-rock types. this data would be a result of such trials and experiments, so I am thinking... mmmmm maybe those researches are wrong or fake.
Anyways, i was searching for this data because I am making a Forces diagram to know how much forces hands and toes need to do in some layback positions.
if some one has done these, please publish, I will be very grateful.
Albert Verdugo
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 24, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Dr JRW, any updates on the climbing shoe rubber test project?
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 24, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Alright locker, next time I burn holes in the toes of my Mythos (mostly from heel-toeing in wide stuff) I'm sending them your way.
Is there a trick to making thicker rubber to improve longevity for heel-toes but keeping the toebox profile slim for thin cracks too?
Of course I'll keep practicing to better implement the standard wisdom (don't move your feet after you place them).
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 25, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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I'm with Werner:
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It aint the shoes per se'
I bet Jimi cud'a shred a tune with a $20.00 ukulele
and with noshoesnoshirt:
I want shoes with Geckskin
Or how about a pair of Curchill swim fins for thin hands cracks ?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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The most important stickiness factor is really mental attitude. All things being equal, Slab/Friction climbing should show the nuances of differing rubber, but usually it is the head game that causes loss of contact with the rock not the rubber.
What ever shoes give you the greatest confidence are usually the stickiest, just watch a hesitant or anxious runout friction climber, usually they peel off because fear forces their body closer to the rock. In a fearful stance your knees come closer to the rock, a defensive posture that actually puts less contact area on the rock, as opposed to maintaining a good 12" of distance between your knees and the rock, which creates a larger contact area over the balls of your feet.
I find when climbing at my limit, any modern rubber has its limitations if you hang around too long on tenuous holds. Sometimes you just have to move and believe the rubber will stick.
Unfortunetly the older I get the worse the rubber seems get!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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Rolfr, that is a good point.
My intellect knows about normal force and how to maximize it, but when I'm on lead it's harder to convince that little boy inside me and make him commit! And if I try to force it without his buy-in, he gets all trembly and sketched and then we blow it.
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