Discussion Topic |
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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If I remember correctly it started with,, in order of apperance.
1) The Nose Nov 1958 Harding, Whitmore,Merry, et al
2) The Salathe Wall Sept 1961 Robbins, Frost, Pratt.
3) Dihedral Wall 1962 Cooper, Baldwin ,Denny
4) North American Wall 1964 Robbins, Frost,Pratt,Chouinard
5) The West Butruss Kor, Roper
6)The Muir Wall 1965 Chouinard, Herbert
7) The Heart Route 1970 Kroger, Davis
Thats as far as I can get and they might not be right
8)
9)
10)
11)
12)
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
Pacific ocean wall, Zodiac, Mescalito, Cosmos, the Shield, the Trip, WOEML, West Butress?
Can any body help fill in the blankc with some dates and first ascent teams?
I will edit the list if this thread goes anywhere.
Maybe this list exists already,,, where's Ed?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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ok, I don't have months for FAs so this is sorted by year.. within a year it is probably alphabetical order... and it might not be a complete list (but I think it's not bad)
1 Nose The 5.9 C2 VI FA 1958 Warren Harding Wayne Merry George Whitmore 5.13b FFA 1993 Lynn Hill
2 Salathe Wall 5.9 C2 VI FA 1961 Royal Robbins Chuck Pratt Tom Frost 5.13b FFA 1988 Todd Skinner Paul Piana
3 Dihedral Wall 5.9 A3+ VI FA 1962 Ed Cooper Jim Baldwin Glen Denny
4 El Capitan West Buttress 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Layton Kor Steve Roper
5 North America Wall 5.8 A2 VI FA 1964 Tom Frost Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Royal Robbins
6 Muir Wall 5.9 A2 VI FA 1965 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert
7 El Capitan West Face 5.9 A4 VI FA 1967 TM Herbert Royal Robbins 5.11c FFA 1979 Ray Jardine Bill Price
8 Triple Direct 5.8 C2 VI FA 1969 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
9 Heart Route The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1970 Chuck Kroger Scott Davis
10 Aquarian Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
11 Heart Woute (Son of Heart) 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown
12 Wall of Early Morning Light 5.7 A3 VI FA 1971 Warren Harding Dean Cadwell
13 Cosmos 5.8 A4 VI FA 1972 Jim Dunn
14 Magic Mushroom 5.10 A4 VI FA 1972 Hugh Burton Steve Sutton
15 Shield The (Salathe Start) 5.7 C4F VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter Gary Bocarde
16 Zodiac 5.7 A2 VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter 5.13d FFA 2003 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
17 Mescalito 5.8 A3 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton Steve Sutton Chris Nelson
18 Tangerine Trip 5.8 A2 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter John-Paul de St. Croix
19 Grape Race 5.9 A5 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Bev Johnson
20 Horse Chute 5.9 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
21 New Dawn 5.8 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Dennis Hennick Chris Jones
22 Excalibur 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
23 Lost World 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1975 C. Folsom Dave Anderson Mike Warburton
24 Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Jim Bridwell Billy Westbay Jay Fiske Fred East
25 Waterfall Route 5.10b A4 VI FA 1975 Daryle Teske T. Polk
26 Eagle's Way 5.8 A3 VI FA 1976 Mark Chapman Mike Graham Jim Orey
27 Lurking Fear 5.7 C2F VI FA 1976 Dave Bircheff Jim Pettigrew 5.13/A0 FFA
28 Mirage 5.9 A4 VI FA 1976 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz Jim Pettigrew
29 Dorn Direct (to Shield) 5.9 A4 VI FA 1977 Tony Yaniro Ron Olevsky
30 New Jersey Turnpike 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1977 Bruce Hawkins Ron Kauk Dale Bard Hugh Burton
31 Iron Hawk 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
32 Never Never Land 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Bruce Hawkins Mark Chapman
33 Sea of Dreams 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Dale Bard Dave Diegelman
34 Sunkist 5.9 A5 VI FA 1978 Bill Price Dale Bard
35 Tribal Rite A4 VI FA 1978 Walter Rosenthal Tom Carter Dale Bard
36 Born Under A Bad Sign 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Tim Washick
37 Jolly Rodger 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
38 South Seas 5.8 A4 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Charlie Row Guy Thompson
39 Hockey Night in Canada 5.10 A3 VI FA 1980 Perry Beckham Scott Flavelle Dave Lane
40 Aurora 5.8 A4 VI FA 1981 Peter Mayfield Greg Child
41 Chinese Water Torture 5.11 A4 VI FA 1981 Karl McConachie Jay Smith
42 Zenyatta Mondatta 5.7 A4 VI FA 1981 Jim Bridwell Peter Mayfield Charlie Row
43 Lunar Eclipse 5.7 A4 VI FA 1982 John Barbella Steve Schneider
44 Mediterraneo VI FA 1982 Miguel Angel Gallego Jose Luis Gallego Javier Gallego Carlos Gallego
45 Pacemaker 5.9 A4 VI FA 1982 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Murray Barnett Jim Siler
46 Squeeze Play 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1982 Mike Corbett Gary Edmondson Rich Albuschkat
47 Wings of Steel 5.10+ A4 VI FA 1982 Richard Jensen Mark Smith
48 Bad to the Bone 5.9+ A4 VI FA 1984 Jay Smith Lidija Painkiher
49 Bermuda Dunes 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1984 Steve Schneider John Barbella
50 Horse Play 5.9 A3 VI FA 1984 Steve Grossman Sue Harrington
51 Real Nose 5.10 A4 VI FA 1984 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
52 Turning Point VI FA 1984 Steve Grossman
53 Wyoming Sheep Ranch 5.8 A4 VI FA 1984 Rob Slater John Barbella
54 Atlantic Ocean Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1985 John Middendorf John Barbella
55 Lost in America 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Randy Leavitt Greg Child
56 Mr. Midwest 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1985 Bill Russell Doug McDonald
57 Murcia Costa Calida 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Jose Luis Gallego Javier Gallego
58 Realm of the Flying Monkeys 5.10a A3 VI FA 1985 Steve Bosque Dan McDevitt
59 Space 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Charles Cole
60 Verano Magico VI FA 1985 Jose Luis Gallego Javier Gallego
61 On the Waterfront 5.9 A5 VI FA 1986 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Gwen Schneider
62 Heartland 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1987 John Barbella Eric Brand
63 Native Son 5.9 A4 VI FA 1987 Walt Shipley Troy Johnson
64 Scorched Earth 5.11 A5 VI FA 1987 Randy Leavitt Rob Slater
65 Bad Seed 5.9 A4+ VI FA 1988 Bill Russell Troy Johnson
66 Central Scrutinizer 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1988 Steve Grossman Jay Ladin
67 For Your Eyes Only (Octopussy) 5.9 A3 VI FA 1988 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
68 Timbuktu Left 5.10 A3 VI FA 1988 Franco Perlotto
69 Genesis 5.11b A4 VI FA 1989 Doug Englekirk Eric Brand
70 High Plains Dripper 5.11 A5 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl Alan Humphrey
71 Reach for the Sky 5.11 A4+ VI FA 1989 Jim Beyer
72 Hole World 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
73 Pressure Cooker 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
74 Shortest Straw The 5.7 A4 VI FA 1990 Rick Lovelace
75 Surgeon General 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
76 Plastic Surgery Disaster 5.8 A5 VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
77 Virginia 5.7 A3 VI FA 1991 Chuck Clance Steve Bosque
78 Winds of Change 5.10 A5 VI FA 1991 Richard Jensen
79 Get Wacked 5.10 A5 VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
80 Abstract Expressionist 5.9 A5 VI FA 1993 Eric Kohl
81 Flight of the Albatross 5.8 A3 VI FA 1993 John Middendorf Will Oxx
82 Kaos 5.7 A4 VI FA 1993 Steve Gerberding Dave Bengston
83 Tempest A4 VI FA 1993 Jeff Hornibrook Brad Jarret Cade Lloyd
84 Adrift 5.11 A3+ VI FA 1995 Steve Quinlan Paul Pritchard
85 Reticent Wall 5.7 A5 VI FA 1995 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Laurie Stowe
86 Ring of Fire A5 VI FA 1995 Richard Jensen Mark Smith
87 Continental Drift 5.9 A4 VI FA 1997 Steve Gerberding Kevin Thaw Conrad Anker
88 Disorderly Conduct 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Miles Smart Bart Groendycke
89 El Nino 5.13c A0 VI FA 1998 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
90 Freerider 5.12d VI FA 1998 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
91 Girdle Traverse 5.10 A4 VI FA 1998 Chris McNamara Mark Melvin
92 Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Jim Bridwell Tyson Hausdoerffer Boulos Ayad
93 Highway to Hell 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Gabor Berecz Thomas Tivadar
94 Ned's Excellent Adventure A4 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Bryan Law
95 Nightmare on California St. 5.8 A4+ VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Grant Gardner
96 Allied Forces 5.9 A3 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Al Swanson Mark Bowling Odd Roar Wilk
97 Dark Star 5.10 A5 VI FA 1999 Jim Bridwell Giovani Groaz
98 Every Man for Himself A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Mark Bowling
99 Gulf Stream 5.9 A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Jay Smith
100 Passage to Freedom 5.13c A0 VI FA 1999 Leo Houlding Jose Pereyra
101 Golden Gate 5.13b VI FA 2000 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
102 Corazon 5.13b VI FA 2001 Alex Huber Max Reichel
103 Slacker's Toil 5.8 A4 VI FA 2001 Jim Beyer
104 Great Disgrace The 5.9 A3+ VI FA 2002 Jon Blair Jeff Hornibrook Bryan Kay
105 Martyr's Brigade 5.11 A5 VI FA 2002 Jim Beyer
106 Quo Vadis 5.9 A4+ VI FA 2002 Jacek Czyz
107 Jose Memorial Variation 5.7 A3+ VI FA 2003 Ammon McNeely Gabe McNeely Austin McNeely
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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Jeeze Ed,,, what took you so long.
Thanks!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
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Cool beans, Ed. There have been a few in recent years for which the wall-afficianados could give you the specifics...Dave Turner's and the Korean guy who was working on his right side frout for a long time. Ivo's free route. The free route that follows some of the routes in the vacinity of Eagle's Way.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
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Thanks Listmaster H.
Lots to ponder there, for instance, I've never done an El cap put up after '75. Half the routes I've done, were put up by Charlie Porter. I think we got the 18th of #10.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
X
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
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the tempest ..price lloyd??? cade lloyd it was ..is
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2008 - 10:54pm PT
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Very interesting seeing the names with the first ascents, great history.
That Beyer dude is still hacking away at the Cap in 2003?
I think some of those guys might even post here..
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
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Ha ha.
Maybe he's your alter ego.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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The dates and personnel for Hockey Night in Canada don't match Alpinist 25, which says it was done in 1980 by Flavelle, Lane and Beckham. Which matches what I can remember of it.
Edit: I'm fairly sure that Daryl never did a first ascent on El Cap, although he made some attempts. I think he did do (at least) Triple Direct, the Shield, the North American Wall, Tangerine Trip (or Zodiac?), Mescalito or New Dawn (?), and Pacific Ocean Wall.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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I got that from the 1987 Myers/Reid guide (the blue one)... Reid's Big Walls has:
FA 1980 Perry Beckham Scott Flavelle Dave Lane
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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Whoa! Klaus and Gerberding were on fire putting up hard routes on the big stone!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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I have #25 at hand, thanks to mighty Anders, what do you need?
-oh, never mind.
I always thought Hockey night was a Hatten rig, oh well.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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found it... and fixed Ring of Fire, 1998
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:53am PT
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There's a book project, or oral history project waiting to be done there. I'd love to hear the stories behind all of the modern FA's.
What about that line that goes up the other side of the Great Roof - Verano Magico, maybe? And the Real Nose?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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Geez, Ed - you've got a lot of time on your hands. Have you considered porn websites instead? Actually, this place is probably more addictive.
I thought Ring of Fire is much earlier than that. Mark? Richard? There's probably something about it on Richard's website, but I don't have the link handy, sorry.
Highway to Hell date is wrong, I think it was 98, as I have vague recollections of looking down on those dudes from Reticent Wall I think. I would have to dig out my slides to make sure, and well, my slides boxes are in a giant pile in the basement gathering dust since I got my digital camera [the pile is a cube about 4' on all sides].
Gulf Stream is far earlier, as Wally was soloing it when I was up on Iron Hawk in 97 I think it was. At any rate, Kate and I watched the first two pitches of Gulf Stream fall off when we were on BUBS - good thing she wasn't still on Gulf Stream, as she had been just a couple weeks previously.
Thanks, Ed.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 18, 2008 - 03:05am PT
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Ring of Fire is given 1995, by Chris MacNamara in his article in the 1998 AAJ.
Richard Jensen does not have Ring of Fire info up on his page yet:
http://jensenconsultations.com/climbing/climbing.html
Highway to Hell is given 1998 in the 1999 AAJ, with a note by Tivadar.
Gulf Stream was done in 9/1993 (see the 1994 AAJ), so you're right.
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Andras
climber
Budapest, Hungary
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Nov 18, 2008 - 04:55am PT
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Thanks for this magnificent list!
Just a minor correction: The first name of Mr. Berecz (Highway to Hell FA team) is Gábor.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 18, 2008 - 09:17am PT
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 18, 2008 - 10:10am PT
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Awesome info Ed, what a cool thread.
I have known Stevie for over 20 years and have never seen him with such a close shave before Todd. LOL Hopefully he won't be upset you posted that pic.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Free Blast 1975 (added connector pitch from Nose to Salathe', not shown on published topos)
Let us know!