Robbin's Goodrich Pinnacle TR (1965)

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Messages 21 - 38 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 9, 2009 - 09:08am PT
Bump!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 9, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
Interesting stuff. Died for a runner - sad.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 21, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
Here is the post where Pat told a brief story of the (June 20, 1968) body recovery of Ernie Milburn and the rescue of his partner, with Jim Bridwell and Mike Covington:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=415031&msg=419969#msg419969

And here are some registry entries from the Chuck Kroger / Ernie Milburn team on Sentinel Rock:

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 21, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
I did the right side in the 80's with T. Burke. The first attempt we got rained off after about 4-5 pitches. Usual July thunder storms. Had to actually "sprint" for the anchors before there was too much water. I got off route and had to take a 40 foot slider because I couldn't reverse the moves. Got blisters on my palms from the slide :-)

Next day we started early and finished.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 21, 2011 - 10:47pm PT
Pat's story of the rescue/recovery:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=498230&msg=502781#msg502781
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 21, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
The Goodrich plaque:
Goodrich Plaque
Goodrich Plaque
Credit: Summit Post Website
(Credit: http://www.summitpost.org/harding-route-goodrich-memorial-plaque/548277);
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 21, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
I've done the right side dozens and dozens of times.

I would actually hate to on-site that fifth pitch again with only old stacked piton in one place for Pro, but those days, barring amnesia, are over.

Even after dozens of ascents, I actually fell on the fifth pitch once. It was around dawn and we are in a hurry to climb all the way to the rim vehicle like a hitchhiker. I stepped too far to the right and slipped on some gritty ball bearings on the rock, slid about 25 feet.

Peace

Karl
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jun 21, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
I didn't realise any of this..
Just climbed this beautiful route last week.
Nice to know the history..
Amazing..

I really felt the need to continue on after the chimney.
Can someone post a topo if possible?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 12:02am PT
There is a good topo of the climbing above Goodrich on Karl's site:
http://memweb.newsguy.com/%7Eclimbing/Galactic%20HitchhikerTopo.html
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 12:10am PT
People should be doing the left side too. The amazing down-traverse flake before the roof is gone making the climb maybe harder and less interesting up to that point since the route changed but the roof pitch is just incredible---one of the most exciting pitches I have ever done and it is only 5.9; really unusual for the Apron too. I did it back in 1965 when I was in high school. And the right side in 1971 with Mark Feldman (?) from Oregon/PacNorWest. I would stress too that the right side is really pretty!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 08:36am PT
I did Goodrich Pinnacle, Right with a guy named Tony Jewell in 1975. Remember it was a pretty neat route. I squeaked off on a long 5.9 friction pitch up there and slid about ten feet or so. Remember it was pretty led out in places but I don't remember it as being terribly scary. We continued to Oasis and rapped to Monday Morning Slab from there. It was a neat day.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 09:05am PT
I tried this with Anne back in 1982, but bailed after just 3 leads due to the heat. It's still "on my list," and would love to get this one done before my time is up...

I really love climbing on the Apron, but the rockfall has me a bit spooked these days.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jun 22, 2011 - 11:49am PT
Wow, so GH does go up through there.
What a sick climb
Grade 6 slab climb...

Broken down- anytime brother
Maybe we can climb GRP at the facelift.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
Riley-

I'll be getting in better shape...if Summer ever arrives! Then, brother...we're on!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
Rodger, you have to take Riley up on this during Facelift. It is pretty much all feet and strategy.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
I would enjoy giving it a try. Always liked slab climbing, and AFAIK I haven't already done it.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
Peter-

I had some great days on Apron: Four routes on the Grack (Marginal, Center, left Side, and Right side) and then Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route. I never got around to Angel's Approach on Lucifer's Ledge, but only bailed while getting rained on after doing Point Beyond. I love that slab climbing!

Hope to see you during Facelift!

Rodger
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 22, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
I did Goodrich right side in about '78 and then up to the Oasis.
I don't remember any spooky 5.9 slab, just solid climbing all the way. I thought the hardest section was the grass filled cracks in the dihedrals above the top of Goodrich. That was spooky! Very little pro, marginal at best. A beautiful climb.
Then the Oasis. What a magical place. About 11 rapps (thanks for the chains Tom Rohrer) down from the west end of the Oasis past Coonyard. Last 4 or 5 done very carefully in the dark with a plastic flashlight in my teeth. A very memorable climb in beautiful surroundings.
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