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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Interesting stuff. Died for a runner - sad.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 01:44am PT
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I did the right side in the 80's with T. Burke. The first attempt we got rained off after about 4-5 pitches. Usual July thunder storms. Had to actually "sprint" for the anchors before there was too much water. I got off route and had to take a 40 foot slider because I couldn't reverse the moves. Got blisters on my palms from the slide :-)
Next day we started early and finished.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 22, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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I've done the right side dozens and dozens of times.
I would actually hate to on-site that fifth pitch again with only old stacked piton in one place for Pro, but those days, barring amnesia, are over.
Even after dozens of ascents, I actually fell on the fifth pitch once. It was around dawn and we are in a hurry to climb all the way to the rim vehicle like a hitchhiker. I stepped too far to the right and slipped on some gritty ball bearings on the rock, slid about 25 feet.
Peace
Karl
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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People should be doing the left side too. The amazing down-traverse flake before the roof is gone making the climb maybe harder and less interesting up to that point since the route changed but the roof pitch is just incredible---one of the most exciting pitches I have ever done and it is only 5.9; really unusual for the Apron too. I did it back in 1965 when I was in high school. And the right side in 1971 with Mark Feldman (?) from Oregon/PacNorWest. I would stress too that the right side is really pretty!
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Jun 22, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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I did Goodrich Pinnacle, Right with a guy named Tony Jewell in 1975. Remember it was a pretty neat route. I squeaked off on a long 5.9 friction pitch up there and slid about ten feet or so. Remember it was pretty led out in places but I don't remember it as being terribly scary. We continued to Oasis and rapped to Monday Morning Slab from there. It was a neat day.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 22, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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I tried this with Anne back in 1982, but bailed after just 3 leads due to the heat. It's still "on my list," and would love to get this one done before my time is up...
I really love climbing on the Apron, but the rockfall has me a bit spooked these days.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 22, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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Riley-
I'll be getting in better shape...if Summer ever arrives! Then, brother...we're on!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
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Rodger, you have to take Riley up on this during Facelift. It is pretty much all feet and strategy.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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I would enjoy giving it a try. Always liked slab climbing, and AFAIK I haven't already done it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 22, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Peter-
I had some great days on Apron: Four routes on the Grack (Marginal, Center, left Side, and Right side) and then Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route. I never got around to Angel's Approach on Lucifer's Ledge, but only bailed while getting rained on after doing Point Beyond. I love that slab climbing!
Hope to see you during Facelift!
Rodger
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 22, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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I did Goodrich right side in about '78 and then up to the Oasis.
I don't remember any spooky 5.9 slab, just solid climbing all the way. I thought the hardest section was the grass filled cracks in the dihedrals above the top of Goodrich. That was spooky! Very little pro, marginal at best. A beautiful climb.
Then the Oasis. What a magical place. About 11 rapps (thanks for the chains Tom Rohrer) down from the west end of the Oasis past Coonyard. Last 4 or 5 done very carefully in the dark with a plastic flashlight in my teeth. A very memorable climb in beautiful surroundings.
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