Robbin's Goodrich Pinnacle TR (1965)

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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 9, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
Bump!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 9, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
Interesting stuff. Died for a runner - sad.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Here is the post where Pat told a brief story of the (June 20, 1968) body recovery of Ernie Milburn and the rescue of his partner, with Jim Bridwell and Mike Covington:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=415031&msg=419969#msg419969

And here are some registry entries from the Chuck Kroger / Ernie Milburn team on Sentinel Rock:

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:44am PT
I did the right side in the 80's with T. Burke. The first attempt we got rained off after about 4-5 pitches. Usual July thunder storms. Had to actually "sprint" for the anchors before there was too much water. I got off route and had to take a 40 foot slider because I couldn't reverse the moves. Got blisters on my palms from the slide :-)

Next day we started early and finished.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:47am PT
Pat's story of the rescue/recovery:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=498230&msg=502781#msg502781
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:52am PT
The Goodrich plaque:
Goodrich Plaque
Goodrich Plaque
Credit: Summit Post Website
(Credit: http://www.summitpost.org/harding-route-goodrich-memorial-plaque/548277);
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:52am PT
I've done the right side dozens and dozens of times.

I would actually hate to on-site that fifth pitch again with only old stacked piton in one place for Pro, but those days, barring amnesia, are over.

Even after dozens of ascents, I actually fell on the fifth pitch once. It was around dawn and we are in a hurry to climb all the way to the rim vehicle like a hitchhiker. I stepped too far to the right and slipped on some gritty ball bearings on the rock, slid about 25 feet.

Peace

Karl
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 03:02am PT
There is a good topo of the climbing above Goodrich on Karl's site:
http://memweb.newsguy.com/%7Eclimbing/Galactic%20HitchhikerTopo.html
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 03:10am PT
People should be doing the left side too. The amazing down-traverse flake before the roof is gone making the climb maybe harder and less interesting up to that point since the route changed but the roof pitch is just incredible---one of the most exciting pitches I have ever done and it is only 5.9; really unusual for the Apron too. I did it back in 1965 when I was in high school. And the right side in 1971 with Mark Feldman (?) from Oregon/PacNorWest. I would stress too that the right side is really pretty!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 11:36am PT
I did Goodrich Pinnacle, Right with a guy named Tony Jewell in 1975. Remember it was a pretty neat route. I squeaked off on a long 5.9 friction pitch up there and slid about ten feet or so. Remember it was pretty led out in places but I don't remember it as being terribly scary. We continued to Oasis and rapped to Monday Morning Slab from there. It was a neat day.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
I tried this with Anne back in 1982, but bailed after just 3 leads due to the heat. It's still "on my list," and would love to get this one done before my time is up...

I really love climbing on the Apron, but the rockfall has me a bit spooked these days.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
Riley-

I'll be getting in better shape...if Summer ever arrives! Then, brother...we're on!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
Rodger, you have to take Riley up on this during Facelift. It is pretty much all feet and strategy.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 22, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
I would enjoy giving it a try. Always liked slab climbing, and AFAIK I haven't already done it.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 22, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
Peter-

I had some great days on Apron: Four routes on the Grack (Marginal, Center, left Side, and Right side) and then Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route. I never got around to Angel's Approach on Lucifer's Ledge, but only bailed while getting rained on after doing Point Beyond. I love that slab climbing!

Hope to see you during Facelift!

Rodger
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 22, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
I did Goodrich right side in about '78 and then up to the Oasis.
I don't remember any spooky 5.9 slab, just solid climbing all the way. I thought the hardest section was the grass filled cracks in the dihedrals above the top of Goodrich. That was spooky! Very little pro, marginal at best. A beautiful climb.
Then the Oasis. What a magical place. About 11 rapps (thanks for the chains Tom Rohrer) down from the west end of the Oasis past Coonyard. Last 4 or 5 done very carefully in the dark with a plastic flashlight in my teeth. A very memorable climb in beautiful surroundings.
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