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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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very nice.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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word up!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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Rocks, Rodeo and Ridges....you covered it all, funny, cool Thread. lrl
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
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The Sun Ribbon is on my must do list but that thing scares me for some reason. Good on ya. Thanks for the report. Epics rule!
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BluntMan
Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
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Oct 29, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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Great TR! I did SR back in 2000 with one of my old climbing partners, Spencer Matthews. Had a great time. After making our way up the snowfield, we tossed our ice-axes and simulclimbed much of the route. I remember the crux was a bit after the tyrolian. I think we did it in about 12 pitches before we topped out (still had to hike about 30 minutes to the true summit).
Thanks for the memories and the pictures we didn't take!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 29, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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Awesome TR. Cannot WAIT to do that route. 2 down, 2 to go!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 29, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
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A most needed & very delicious service you've provided for all us geezers here on the flip side!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Oct 29, 2008 - 08:59pm PT
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love the shirt, thanks for the great tr
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 29, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
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Sweet trip report - really conveyed the flavor of the day. Thanks.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
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Dude!!! Bad Azz Trip Report!!!
A couple of those shots actually got me dizzy. You were way out there..
Nice Hawaiian! Nice rodeo fling!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:05am PT
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micronut, sounds just a tad craz to me also...
So no way to do it faster and come down in lite or spend the night up top ? Just a real newbie asking a dumb question. But likin' an answer.
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 12:27am PT
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There are plenty of people who have done it in much less time than we did... but can they can do it faster with gear every 8-10 feet? I dunno. Some can probably, but not me.
The main reason for us not placing as much gear is to extend the length of simul-climbing before having to stop and give more pro to the leader. Think about 15 pitches with 10 minutes for setting a natural anchor and doing a gear change-over at each one... that's 2.5 hours of sitting still. If it got dark 2.5 hours before we hit the summit, it would have taken us another 5 hours probably instead of 2.5 to get to the summit. Then from the summit we would be moving even slower from being more tired, make more route-finding errors, etc... so it all adds up quickly.
Doing it mid-summer, and starting pre-dawn from the campsite would be the way to give yourself the best margin for error in terms of time and daylight. Or just be in better shape than us and be a fast mofo. Anyone doing this car-to-car should take a bow and acknowledge they are bad@ss.
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seth kovar
Trad climber
Montgomery, NY
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bump- nice tr
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TYeary
climber
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Very cool TR . Thanks.. Brings back some memories of when Tony Yinger and I raced a thunder storm to the top of the Sun Ribbon Arete. We never tagged the top, too scared of getting fried.
We didn't do the tyrol as well. Not for the lack of trying though. I would have never made it as a cowboy. We gave up on the lasso and climbed down into the notch and back up the other side. It is one of the Great Sierra routes and a must do for any serious Sierra student.I touched the top of Temple Crag after doing the Moon Goddess a bit later. Another great route, a notch less serious, but great climbing. On the MG, do the Ibirum tower direct via a fine 5.9ish finger/hand crack that goes right up the face of the tower. A much better variation than the dank traverse to end run the tower.
Thanks again for the memory jog.
Tony
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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May 19, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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(Testing how to link a photo from Picasa)
Edit: Is that showing up for anybody out there?
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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Yo Bryce, top of Dark Star coming through loud and clear.
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