TR Pics Vid - Sun Ribbon Arete 2008-09-21


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Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
Oct 29, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
Your description of decending from Contact Pass in the dark brought me back to the toture of that decent. You nailed the feeling of decending through that upper boulderfield and sand. It makes the MR decent off Mt Whitney seem tame.

Trad climber
Oct 29, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
very nice.

Trad climber
Oct 29, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
word up!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Oct 29, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
Rocks, Rodeo and covered it all, funny, cool Thread. lrl

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Oct 29, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
The Sun Ribbon is on my must do list but that thing scares me for some reason. Good on ya. Thanks for the report. Epics rule!

Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
Oct 29, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
Great TR! I did SR back in 2000 with one of my old climbing partners, Spencer Matthews. Had a great time. After making our way up the snowfield, we tossed our ice-axes and simulclimbed much of the route. I remember the crux was a bit after the tyrolian. I think we did it in about 12 pitches before we topped out (still had to hike about 30 minutes to the true summit).

Thanks for the memories and the pictures we didn't take!

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 29, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
Awesome TR. Cannot WAIT to do that route. 2 down, 2 to go!

right here, right now
Oct 29, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
A most needed & very delicious service you've provided for all us geezers here on the flip side!

Trad climber
Oct 29, 2008 - 08:59pm PT
love the shirt, thanks for the great tr

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 29, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
Sweet trip report - really conveyed the flavor of the day. Thanks.


Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
Dude!!! Bad Azz Trip Report!!!

A couple of those shots actually got me dizzy. You were way out there..

Nice Hawaiian! Nice rodeo fling!

Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Oct 30, 2008 - 12:05am PT
micronut, sounds just a tad craz to me also...

So no way to do it faster and come down in lite or spend the night up top ? Just a real newbie asking a dumb question. But likin' an answer.

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 12:27am PT
There are plenty of people who have done it in much less time than we did... but can they can do it faster with gear every 8-10 feet? I dunno. Some can probably, but not me.

The main reason for us not placing as much gear is to extend the length of simul-climbing before having to stop and give more pro to the leader. Think about 15 pitches with 10 minutes for setting a natural anchor and doing a gear change-over at each one... that's 2.5 hours of sitting still. If it got dark 2.5 hours before we hit the summit, it would have taken us another 5 hours probably instead of 2.5 to get to the summit. Then from the summit we would be moving even slower from being more tired, make more route-finding errors, etc... so it all adds up quickly.

Doing it mid-summer, and starting pre-dawn from the campsite would be the way to give yourself the best margin for error in terms of time and daylight. Or just be in better shape than us and be a fast mofo. Anyone doing this car-to-car should take a bow and acknowledge they are bad@ss.
seth kovar

Trad climber
Montgomery, NY
Feb 4, 2009 - 11:58am PT
bump- nice tr
Dingus Milktoast

Feb 4, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
kb and I did it in 10 or so pitches, some simuling on each lead pretty much. We made great time on the route, something like 5-6 hours.

However, we did not to the tyrolean. It isn't mandatory and I detest wasting time on antics, when doing long routes like that. We rapped and climbed on through - much faster. I djust don't and didn't see the point of a tyrolean at that spot. YMMV.

And I accidentally climbed (walked) right past the crux pitch and ascended the steep and easy but poorly protected wall to its left. I didn't realize I'd missed the crux till kb complained about it. He was jonsing to lead it and must have been frustrated to see my rope avoid it entirely haha.

Not the first time I disappointed my more talented and fit partner. You soulda seen the look on his face as he struggled with the 3rd cam in a row in the stoveleds I'd placed too deep. Sheesh!

Anyway, at the top of the route I was determined to visit the summit of Temple crag. kb wasn't interested so he napped whiule I bagged.

The previous entry to mine was Peter Croft - he'd done Dark Star and was headed back around for ANOTHER LAP on the Sun Ribbon. I think he made the 1st entry at like 10 am. He'd done Dark Star from a trailhead start, and was on top by 10 AM.

I collected kb and down we went. Great times, my 2nd Temple Crag route.


Feb 4, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
Very cool TR . Thanks.. Brings back some memories of when Tony Yinger and I raced a thunder storm to the top of the Sun Ribbon Arete. We never tagged the top, too scared of getting fried.
We didn't do the tyrol as well. Not for the lack of trying though. I would have never made it as a cowboy. We gave up on the lasso and climbed down into the notch and back up the other side. It is one of the Great Sierra routes and a must do for any serious Sierra student.I touched the top of Temple Crag after doing the Moon Goddess a bit later. Another great route, a notch less serious, but great climbing. On the MG, do the Ibirum tower direct via a fine 5.9ish finger/hand crack that goes right up the face of the tower. A much better variation than the dank traverse to end run the tower.
Thanks again for the memory jog.

Oakland: what's not to love?
May 19, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
(Testing how to link a photo from Picasa)

Edit: Is that showing up for anybody out there?

Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
Yo Bryce, top of Dark Star coming through loud and clear.
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