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JakedATC
Sport climber
Bristol
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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I disagree on operator error.. It sounds like the top Biner attached to the bolt became twisted on the hanger in some way that it was cross loaded or gate loaded which is far weaker than the normal closed gate spine loaded number that is the nice 24kn instead it was more in the 6-8kn range best case.
"biner on the draw attached to the bolt" "bd ultra lite wire gate biner" For those with comprehension issues thinking it was the rope end of the draw or a single biner
For the 8 years i've been climbing I've always seen warnings of using wiregates on the bolt side due to their tendency to get caught on bolts, hangers etc
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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6-8KN = 1350-1800 pounds.
Even only half of that force on belay side should launch most belayers.
Still seems pretty high for 0.4 fall. Of course, with a static rope, it would be much worse than 0.4!
Original description does not mention belayer taking a ride, or rope slipping, or use of grigri and belayer tied to ground.
I still suggest vanilla cross-load does not break 6-8KN biner with this fall on dynamic rope.
If the wire-gate biner should not be clipped on a bolt, that falls into operator error if it was, in my mind.
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Owlman
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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The biner that sheared was the one on the bolt.
The belayer got yanked, but managed to keep the faller from really hitting the ground full force.
The bolt hangar also was a bit of a spinner, which may have added salt to the wound by helping the biner spin up at a funny angle.
-willey
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TomT
Trad climber
Aptos.
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Oct 27, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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was it a case of the gate notch catching and cross loading? I have read this now in a couple of places. It would seem biners like heliums without such a notch are the answer.
tt
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