FOBIAD Trip Report 10/25/08


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Oakland: what's not to love?
Nov 20, 2008 - 01:34am PT

Ed H and Zander - this writeup was just as good the second time through.

What's the next linkup you're scheming toward?

Zander, seeing these pictures I realized that I met you in El Agave, Scott and I were coming back from Temple Crag and you, I think, had been at a wedding?

Anyways, great TR and I look forward to reading the next one.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:43am PT
Hi le_bruce,
We did meet that day. Glad you liked the write up. Some day I'm sure Nutjob will get us all together for an epic!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 20, 2008 - 10:55am PT
I'm afraid the next linkup may not be as popular as the FOBIAD. This winter I'm trying to organize that rowdy bunch that are identified by the acronym: BAWC, to rediscover the HOTC: Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit; of which only Chingando is designated on the list...

...stay tuned.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 22, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
This is a badass idea and TR.

I'll bump it cause I'm gonna be hitten Munginella Saturday. I've never done it and I'm going with a new leader who's ambitious. He climbs pretty hard 10ish routes and I've seen him lead sport...purdy solid. "Just don't fall and you won't have to worry about bad placements" I tell him.

TR to follow

Trad climber
Sep 29, 2010 - 03:19pm PT

Trad climber
san diego
Sep 29, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
Climbed all of the open books back in the day, but not all in a day of course. There is some beautiful rock up there, along with the views.

I believe it was Munginella where those three unfortunate souls met their end. I remember the exact location as if it was yesterday. We climbed it in '73 and the belay we used incorporated the same manzanita bush/tree that they had tied off as their only anchor. I believe we backed it up with a piece of pro in the crack.

The crux was right off the belay/manzanita bush, a few difficult lie back moves(the last pitch). Their leader fell, pulling out their anchor(the manzanita bush)and the three of them fell to their death(all were in their early 20's). I was in camp that evening('76/77)and it was a very sad one to say the least. We had all met the young lads from the mid-west. They had just finished the Regular Route on Half Dome the day before, and had just that one day left before the long drive back home. They were elated about their success on HD, and were already making plans for next years trip up the Captain.

In the last conversation they had before leaving camp they stated, "We decided that we had a little time to kill, so were gonna do one of the Open Books..." before packing and hitting the road.

Be careful, and be wise my friends...

BTW, EH is a bad ass!

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 26, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Bump for a cool day and report
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Nov 26, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Awesome TR, Thanks for bumping.
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