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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:43am PT
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Hi le_bruce,
We did meet that day. Glad you liked the write up. Some day I'm sure Nutjob will get us all together for an epic!
Zander
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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I'm afraid the next linkup may not be as popular as the FOBIAD. This winter I'm trying to organize that rowdy bunch that are identified by the acronym: BAWC, to rediscover the HOTC: Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit; of which only Chingando is designated on the list...
...stay tuned.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 22, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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This is a badass idea and TR.
I'll bump it cause I'm gonna be hitten Munginella Saturday. I've never done it and I'm going with a new leader who's ambitious. He climbs pretty hard 10ish routes and I've seen him lead sport...purdy solid. "Just don't fall and you won't have to worry about bad placements" I tell him.
TR to follow
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 29, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
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re-BUMP!
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Sep 29, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
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Climbed all of the open books back in the day, but not all in a day of course. There is some beautiful rock up there, along with the views.
I believe it was Munginella where those three unfortunate souls met their end. I remember the exact location as if it was yesterday. We climbed it in '73 and the belay we used incorporated the same manzanita bush/tree that they had tied off as their only anchor. I believe we backed it up with a piece of pro in the crack.
The crux was right off the belay/manzanita bush, a few difficult lie back moves(the last pitch). Their leader fell, pulling out their anchor(the manzanita bush)and the three of them fell to their death(all were in their early 20's). I was in camp that evening('76/77)and it was a very sad one to say the least. We had all met the young lads from the mid-west. They had just finished the Regular Route on Half Dome the day before, and had just that one day left before the long drive back home. They were elated about their success on HD, and were already making plans for next years trip up the Captain.
In the last conversation they had before leaving camp they stated, "We decided that we had a little time to kill, so were gonna do one of the Open Books..." before packing and hitting the road.
Be careful, and be wise my friends...
BTW, EH is a bad ass!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 26, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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Bump for a cool day and report
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Nov 26, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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Awesome TR, Thanks for bumping.
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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What a great idea Ed And Z. How did I miss this inspiring TR the first go round. Bunch of great routes, together, WOOT~! Inspiring pics too. Hey Phil-B, your photo disappeared! You said: "Here's a pretty girl at the top of Munginella" No pic? Can you repost?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
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I believe it was Munginella where those three unfortunate souls met their end. I remember the exact location as if it was yesterday. We climbed it in '73 and the belay we used incorporated the same manzanita bush/tree that they had tied off as their only anchor. I believe we backed it up with a piece of pro in the crack.
The crux was right off the belay/manzanita bush, a few difficult lie back moves(the last pitch). Their leader fell, pulling out their anchor(the manzanita bush)and the three of them fell to their death(all were in their early 20's). I was in camp that evening('76/77)and it was a very sad one to say the least. I looked this up in the book Death in Yosemite, p.306.
May 25, 1975
John Fox Schwab, age 20, Stamford, CT
Ronald Baum, age 21, Hillsdale, NJ
It said Schwab was leading the 5.7 crux of Selaginella, a lieback right above the belay (this matches the topo).
He had 2 nuts and a biner on something for pro.
Baum was anchored to 2 nuts plus the manzanita.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 28, 2014 - 03:19am PT
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damn wow
I remember hearing about that
I went to the F. O. Books
early '79, checkin it out
they were 'local' climbers,to me.
From towns that I was from,
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 28, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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This reminds me that I haven't don Munginella in a looooong time! next Summer or Spring? Maybe....
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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After reading this TR, I was determined to climb all seven of the ST routes at FOB. I'm happy to report that only The Surprise, and Werner's Ant Tree var is left and it only took me 2 seasons! Thanks for the beta everyone!
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