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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 21, 2008 - 11:58am PT
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Good beta above.. I tend to agree with Woody about the start being cruxy, but if you climb at the Gunks, it probably won't seem too bad. Getting to the Elephant's Ear is the widely accepted crux, good gear and a couple moves.
The bottom part of the 2nd pitch is far easier to layback, with good feet (horizontal dike like features) every once and a while to allow you to pull in and place gear (wider pieces needed - 2 - 4 inches). When you get near the last 15-20 feet the crack steepens and jamming it is easiest/best. There is a somewhat awkward belay under the roof atop the second pitch.
The third pitch can be tricky and should not be under-estimated (5.8; underclinging to lower angled cracks and slabby type moves).
If you have never climbed at Tahquitz before, you might want to check you this thread which gives great beta on the Friction Route Descent: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=696379
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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One more bit of advice: be damned sure you have good pro in for the initial overhang. On the wall to the right of the OH is a high crack that takes excellent pro and will keep you off the deck if you blow it. I'm not tall enough to reach it so I always like someone around six feet plus. Unfortunately, that usually isn't the case; at which point, you'll find spots here and there to get a couple of pieces in, usually stoppers.
The OV is a bit tricky the first time you do it since you can get your hands reversed when going for the key hold that allows you to pull over and stand up. I usually forget exactly the precise placement of my hands at the start which sometimes makes the OV a little more exciting than necessary. I advise pulling up until you see the upper hold, then you can plan your moves.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
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A couple of more items.
To reiterate what Woody said, protect the start and anchor the belayer. If one comes off the start it's a short fall but high on fall factor. A tumble down the gulley would be dire!
There's also a horn you can sling to protect the moves from the opening bolder move to the main crack.
It's also better to move out of the cave and belay shortly above on a comfortable stance with medium size gear at the end of the second pitch.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
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I'm a little surprised by all the opinions that the lower section is the crux. Since the Open Book was the first 5.9 climbed in America and the Mechanic Route, which was climbed way earlier, uses the same start but is only rated 5.8.
Sure it's a little bouldery and sometimes ratings don't take that into account, however, I don't think it's anywhere nearly as hard as the thin crack getting up to the Ear. Pro is a little wierd, but you can sling a horn as someone suggested.
Also, I don't think the 2nd pitch is to be underestimated. If you lieback the whole thing (like I have), it's pumpy. You can jam it but it gets wide (4"). It's not hand size as someone suggested, except for maybe a short section off the belay. A 3" crack is perfect fist jam size for me, so liebacking just seemed easier. Do bring a couple of 4" pieces.
I thought the 3rd pitch was relatively easy compared to the first two.
The lesson in all of this: be careful when you ask beta for such a popular climb. It's kind of like the fable about blind people each giving a description of an elephant based on the part they're feeling. You're going to get a lot of divergent opinions.
Just go and do it!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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I think it's safe to say that very few climbers have led that overhang as many times as I have. Ergo, be careful and follow my advice.
Addendum: it's silly to rate "The Mechanics" at 5.8 nowdays. If the OH is 5.9, and it is in my opinion, the MR is 5.9. Yeah, I know....
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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Ignoring the numbers, Fat Dad, When I climbed the Open Book,
I thought the crux was on the first pitch.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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Wendell, shame...shame. No, don't anchor the belayer; that's wussy. Climbing should be about adventure.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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Yeah!
Sounds like a pair had one of those adventures this weekend over by Angels Fright.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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yeah I read about that...it seems there's been a rash of accidents in the climbing world this past few weeks. I guess I'll just have to be extra careful.
Woody, thanks for the heads up on the start. I am 6'3 so hopefully i can sew it up right off the ground. I have big hexes and a few big cams. I rarely get to use the bigger hexes and I always KNEW that I would need them someday.
I look forward to weighing in on what part of the route felt like the crux.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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"Ignoring the numbers, Fat Dad, When I climbed the Open Book,
I thought the crux was on the first pitch."
No argument here. I just meant it was the thin crack above the OH, not the OH.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Okay, now for the Mummy Crack. There's a hidden crack inside and on the left. Use it to lie back with your left foot on the left face. Lots of places for pro. DON"T ever get sucked to the right of the Mummy. If you do, cry for "Mummy".
Okay, what's next? I know, "Bastard Variation of the Illegitimate". It has a challenging jam. If you do it like I did--unable to protect it--you will remember it on your deathbed.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:13pm PT
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i have a feeling the runout slab might be more challenging than the technical crux for me. But if its that high up, necessity makes you do it.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
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I guess I was confused: OH, OB, OV, OW...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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It used to thought that the Open Book was the first true 5.9 in the country (Royal Robbins free ascent in '54???). Surely 5.9 had been done somewhere before the OB free (original ascents were on aid via wooden planks bashed into the crack), but this one is an all time historical classic for sure.
JL
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kev
climber
CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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Did it with drc a few years ago. Super fun. drc stemmed P2 and said it was work - I just got my arm in the thing. Super fun!
kev
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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FA was 1952. While Open Book has long been credited as the first 5.9 in the US, if I recall correctly there may be some east coast routes that are now concensus 5.9s and were done before that. A classic route and line no matter what.
Robbin's FFA was also significant because it started a free climbing trend that bucked the somewhat conservative accepted standards of the time.
Mechanics Route (solid 5.8) was first done in 1937 in tennis shoes and hemp rope and is run out to boot (starts as per Open Book). A bold and difficult adventure considering modern rope technique was only introduced in the US in the mid 30s.
There used to be one of those wooden wedges in the second pitch of Human Fright into recent times. Small hole drilled in wide end with some bunk hemp rope. Wide pins wouldn't make an appearance until after 1958 (stoveleg pins being probably the first).
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal Hell
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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Ahhh..the slab traverse!!! years ago, the first time climbing the Open Book, my solid partner got totally whigged out on that upper slab. He couldn't do it and essentially we were stuck until this last party came up and we asked if they would belay my partner up. Since it was their first time at Tahquitz they needed beta on the friction descent, so helped each other out. By the time we got up the Open Book it was dark, so too sketchy to down climb the descent, however, between our two ropes we just rapped down.
So, if you are a solid crack climber but dislike friction slabs beware of that last pitch!!!
There you go Woody, this was "one" of those Tahquitz climbs ending in the dark !!!!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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This is the best pic I could find of the run-out slab at the top. You start in the chimney to the left of my partner and then wriggle out onto the face right above my partners head. You are aiming for the OW/squeeze further above my partners head. The slab is called 5.6 but if you don't have any big cams (#4.5+ if I remember correctly) then I think you have almost no gear from the belay until you get to the squeeze...
SQUEEEEEEEEEEZE....
And here is the final OW/squeeze...
so much fun!
-n
edit... just for fun, here is a pic of me in the cave belay that the topo marks as optional. This belay SUCKS.
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