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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2008 - 04:08am PT
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I am planning on heading out to Tahquitz next week to climb some moderate/easy stuff. I was wondering which of the two descent routes would be better/safer: the north gully or the friction route?
I am relatively new to longer multi-pitch leading and I would prefer the more idiot proof of the two since the descent tends to be harder than most of the climbs I have led so far...
While we're at it...here's what I'm thinking about climbing-
one of the lark routes 5.5-5.7, probably hard lark from what I was reading in the guidebook...
Fingertrip 5.7
or
Sahara Terror also a 7.
To put my abilities in context, I was really comfortable on "Bears Reach" in Tahoe when I was there which is a 7 and on "Its better with bacon" which is an 8, but I would really like to get some feedback from those more experienced than I.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
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KitD
Trad climber
Vista, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 04:26am PT
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Both are great descent routes, so more depends on which route you are climbing; the only trick is knowing where the friction descent starts. Sahara & Fingertrip are closer to the friction traverse, so it's worth knowing that route. Besides, it's kind of fun. A word about the Larks -- definitely easy, fun, but they wander all over, so who knows what Lark you'll end up on! Sahara was an excellent climb, but has a tricky fifth pitch (my partner led, bless him!). When are you going out? We will be there Wednesday.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2008 - 04:39am PT
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we will probably be there early next week...we are hanging out in san diego because we are getting married on the weekend then heading to tahquitz probably next monday. how long are you going to be there?
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 13, 2008 - 05:29am PT
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If you have done bears reach you should have no problem with Fringertrip. It was a quick, fun route as long as you go mid-week and miss the crowds. Varied climbing, never too hard.
As far as the walk off...it is WAY over-hyped. It is super easy, super cruiser, super quick. If you are planning on doing your next route on the north side I would say descend the gully. If you are going to do something on the South or West face then the Friction route is the key.
Here are some pics of the Friction Descent.
For routes like the Open Book, Trough, Angels Fright, Fingertrip, Mechanics, etc... you are going to walk up the slabs on the right side (south side). You will see this block that my partner is pointing at. You are aiming for the Friction Descent which starts right behind it. See the trees to the left of the block? That is your first goal and you should aim left and high of the trees and come down into them.....
It should look like this when you get there. Look carefully in between the two trees and you will see a V notch in the rock. This is your target...
You will start to shimmy down here...
It is not too exposed and does not require climbing moves, just scrape your butt if you get scared. After shimmying down you want to look for a white ramp on the descenders right (facing away form the rock). Go down this ramp and straight down a couple small ledges to a tree and head straight across left. It may sound a little complicated but is pretty straight forward if you have ever done approach and descent route finding before. If a rank and file amateur, you should be able to figure it out but you might be able to find someone on top who you can tag along behind who knows the descent.
have fun and Climb Safe
-n
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Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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Great post Strider, the pics are helpful
I've tried tagging that tree with a small piece of webbing or some white tape before as a marker for the descent but it always gets taken down.
Like Strider said, head down the little chimney shown in the second picture (facing right is best here), then head down a short/steep ramp to the left. This plops you onto a small ledge. From here you can EITHER continue right down an obvious ramp OR (my preference) drop over an improbable edge to the left which lands you onto a large ledge directly above the big pine tree. The drop requires one committing move to get over the edge but makes for easier going in my opinion. Descend to the big tree, walk to the edge and cut back around to the left (around a small oak) and from here you'll be able to see the rest of the descent as it cuts back toward the hillside. It is also possible to rappel from the big tree with two 60m ropes but it is a much slower option.
Once you get back on the trail, stay close to the wall until you are right below the Ski Track routes (very obvious parallel cracks). From here you want to stay out a bit from the wall as staying to close will leave you down-climbing easy slabs. There are two easier trails, both will lead down but one will cut back toward the Open Book (toe of S.W. buttress) while the other will continue down through thick brush. If you find yourself in thick, overgrown brush.... try to work back toward the base (that trail will get you down but it SUCKS).
The north gully descent is also easy but takes longer and leads you through a large talus field. I don't prefer this route for that reason alone but additionally it is easy to get a bit mixed up if you stay too close to the base on the way down.
Have fun!!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 13, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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drop over an improbable edge to the left which lands you onto a large ledge directly above the big pine tree. The drop requires one committing move to get over the edge but makes for easier going in my opinion. Descend to the big tree,
No,
Then grab the treelimb and do the T.S. memorial tree swing.
;-}
(although Woody informs me that the tree swing predated Tobin by at least 15-20 years or so.)
But he ain't dead yet (just almost)so it can't be Woody's memorial tree swing.
For the N. side there's a shortcut down a short chimney marked by a use trail and a large pine at the start.
Use that one for anything north of the White Maiden butress, including The Larks.
NE Face West is a much better climb than any of the larks with sustained climbing for six pitches at 5.6-7. Do a short first pitch and then a 60M will put you at good belays with trees all the way up.
If you do Fingertrip and can't figure out where the second pitch goes, just do as Dorthy was told.
"Follow the yellow brick road."
Sahara Terror probably produces more route finding epics than any other climb on the rock.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 13, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Great descriptions and photos.
Fingertrip is by far the best route of the ones mentioned. As stated, from the top of that route, head up the featured slabs until you can traverse to about where the climber's forearm is. Scramble up and a bit left over the boulders into the trees. Then drop down to the right (backside of the boulder) and follow the descent directions.
When you get to the SW Toe of the rock (below Open Book), follow the base of the rock until you reach the lowest point. From here, the base of Fingertrip is maybe 25 yards uphill along the base to the left. This makes retrieving your packs easy.
Best way to reach the base of Fingertrip is to take the main Lunch Rock trail up to Lunch Rock. From Lunch Rock head directly to the right (slight drop at first) then follow a trail south until you pass through some brush and trees and reach the very lowest point of Tahquitz Rock (the same place you will come to from the opposite direction on the descent). Now head left and up to the base of a leaning left facing orange colored dihedral which leads to a clean dihedral higher up. Here is a photo from Mt. Project showing the first pitch:
Make sure to traverse in the correct spot on the second pitch. You will get into a nice arching left facing corner to a belay. Third pitch heads up to apex of the arch and heads over it then up and left on easy ground to a large ledge.
Imo, The Larks, Sahara Terror and the other routes on the North and Northeast sides of the Rock either have lots of easy climbing, wander, or are just not as aesthetic. But if you do any of those climbs, you would probably want to come down the north gully (provided you left your packs at the base). For those routes, the North Face/Stream approach makes more sense, but involves a lot of talus up and down.
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
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First time down the Friction Descent Route might be exciting. The guide book is has a very accurate photo of the descent.
This summer I took a sport climber up to Tahquitz for his first trad multi-pitch climb. We did the fun and easy Finger Trip (Be careful on the second pitch: I went straight up [short 5.11 finish] and missed the arch on the left and then downclimbed to get back on the route). He was surprised at the exposure on the Friction Descent Route. He kept repeating, "Why don't they have a rap route?" I told him, "Welcome to trad climbing." The approach, climb, Friction Descent Route and walk out pretty much took everything out of him. If you have never been climbing at Tahquitz be ready for a FULL DAY of fun and adventure.
The North Gully is very casual but is used mainly for North Face routes.
The second time I took the same sport climber up to Tahquitz we climbed Dave's Deviation to the Piton Pooper finish. This time it rained half way down the Friction Descent Route. My sport climbing friend was not happy with the final descent down the wet slabs. Even though this was his second time at Tahquitz he was pretty thrashed by time we got to the car.
If you have good cardio endurance and don't mind some easy unroped slab climbing with exposure you should be fine. I have been to Tahquitz about 6 times but always find it to be a full day of adventure and a great cardio/lower body workout. Have fun!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 13, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
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Thanks guys. The reason I took those pictures was specifically to help anyone find the descent route. Researching Tahquitz before I went there, the Friction route had some pretty burly tales of people getting lost, needing to rappel, etc... I was shocked when I got there and found it to be super chill and no big deal. Like I said, if you have ever done any amount of approach and descent route finding, then it should be easy.
Last bit of advice. If you do Fingertrip make sure you stay on route! When I wad there I saw no less than 3 parties starting at the right spot but going to far to the left and ending up in the 5.8/9 OW/fist thing. Remember, from the start of Fingertrip, you want to go pretty much straight up. If you traverse for than a FEW moves to the left and start underclinging then you are off-route! Look for the fixed pin at the bulge on your right and continue up.
climb safe
-n
Edit: "...don't mind some easy unroped slab climbing with exposure you should be fine. "
The most exposed part I remember was the initial chimney, after than you are pretty much just ledge hopping your way down and then traversing left.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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Thanks a lot for your help everyone. I feel better about doing the friction route now having seen a little of it. I am really psyched to get out there and get on a few routes...probably one per day as speed is the weak point at this time.
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
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be careful on Sahara Terror, it's easy to get off route and onto something really hard...
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
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thats what she said.
no seriously though, i was thinking that i might try the long climb starting on wong instead. that looks pretty straight up. or fingertrip.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 13, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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First time there, I'd go for Fingertrip.
It's a better route overall and given the time of year the Long/Wong could be on the cold side. It has to be the most shaded route on the rock.
Better to save that for a long hot one, mid summer.
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