Zenyatta Mondatta Photo TR -10/08

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Nov 13, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
bump for bad ass pictures
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
Great TR, Lambone. Nice shots.

I talked to Peter about the bat hook holes and he said they drilled none on the FA. Are people drilling them because features have fallen off or simply because they were inept?
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 24, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
Hey Mark,

Drilled hooks and bathooks are two different things. Bathooks refer to a blank section with a hole drilled straight in, ie. instead of a rivet.

Drilled hooks that Lambone refers to are hooking spots that were perhaps sloping and had a small divet added. On first ascents bitd, a couple of taps on a drill were considered fair game to make an unusable spot usable.

Though this was debated back then as well, and there are climbers who remain vehemently opposed (Steve Grossman is one). I was fricken 18 years old, and for the most part took advice from Bridwell when it came to FA nailing style.

To some this is considered controversial, and one problem is that a well crafted effort on the FA, often gets hacked up as more enhancement gets done by subsequent ascents.

So, NO, we did no bat-hook moves up there. YES, we enhanced some slopers, and yes there are probably a bunch of added hook divets. Such is the fate of modern aid walls.

Flame away all you armchair El Cap heroes!

Peter
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 24, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Thanks, Peter. I want to go up there this spring and try do it in it's cleanest most original form. Also, given that a copperhead is the first tool of the inept, I'll be leading with a butterknife and taking out any head I can climb past by other means.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Thanks Mark, had fun making this TR. ZM held a huge ominous stigma in my mind for years so I remember being pretty elated when we ticked it in decent wall style. Fond memories of my spontaneous impromptu partnership with BriGuy and hope to climb with him again someday. Solid Waller that Bri...Guy.

I remember a combination of enhanced hook placements and straight bathooks, for instance the whole hooking section above the p5 anchor...Had my palms all sweaty but turned out to be the easiest hooks I've placed on El Cap. Also we came across many drilled bathooks next to (or to avoid) existing features. Too many to remember and count. Some may have been from missing features. But I remember being disgusted numerous times on good gear otherwise. I often saw them while cleaning where BriGuy climbed right past them.

Bring patching material...

I think ZM has gotten "cleaned up" fairly regularly over the years and it's prolly overdue.

Nevertheless besides a lot of fixed gear and enhancements, I think it is a pretty cool route. Runouts above small heads and hooking on loose flakes keeps it pretty exciting. Though I led the odd pitches and never remember being unusually scared.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 24, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
Bummer, that sounds like a lot more holes than I remember on the 20th anniversary ascent. Wow, this year is the 30th anniversary! Maybe I should get up there again...A lot of traffic, and some heavy handedness has transpired in 10 years.

Again Lambone, great job! and great TR.

What is on your El Cap dance card this year?

Peter
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
Takin an old friend up the Nose for his first wall this spring. Hopefully something a little more technical in the fall. I have had two baby girls since this ZM climb so things are a bit different now...

Thanks for the nice words!
D.Eubanks

climber
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:36am PT
Lambone, good work, nice TR, excellent photo's. This TR shows alot about the climb. Nice consistently steep clean climbing with that Lightning Bolt pitch in the middle of it all. We did it in 84 and it was a big eye opener to real genuine A4.

Congrates again..

Dana
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