ultimate Yosemite bigwall bolting thread

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
I'm headed out of town today for my yearly inner pilgrimage but wanted to write a shout out to the new and future Yose bigwall climbers out there.

As you've probably seen on these forums, folks like to talk about bolts and fixed anchors. Unfortunately in the case of Yosemite's big walls, talk can be cheap....

So much love and many cheers to the folks that leave the big stones a little cleaner or kept up than they found them.

West Face of El Cap pitch 1 anchor


West Face of El Cap pitch 2 anchor


Wyoming Sheep Ranch pitch 1 anchor


eroding first pitch pro, Wyoming Sheep Ranch


eroding bat hooks, pitch 2 Wyoming Sheep Ranch








These are just a couple examples of classic Yosemite big wall routes that are looking a little worse for wear. They definitely don't all look like this but I hope this thread inspires people to visualize the fixed anchor future that is the best for the rock and climbers alike.

love
erik




Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Oct 15, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
Hey Erik,

I really appreciated having a talk with you about rivet and bolt replacement this past spring. Although bolting can be a hot button issue I find you always have thoughtful comments to add to the discussion. Have a great 'rest of season' where ever you head. Hope to see all you guys and gals in a year.

Cheers,

Doug
Mike.

climber
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
There have been a couple of threads which dissected this subject fairly well. In particular the rivet issue was covered pretty well previously.

It would be great to archive all the bolting info together. High on idealism, low on action here...
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
Erik,
Thanks for hooking us up with some free rivits before our Zenyatta ascent, and for the beta! You were right, those machine heads sticking way out from the wall are pretty sketchy looking. However since everything held our bodyweight on the route we didn't end up stopping to replace any bolts. Probly should have anyway, but you know how it is when you are trying to make pitches happen! As allways, a pleasure to run into you under El Cap!
tomtom

Social climber
Seattle, Wa
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
Those gloves are looking a bit worse for wear too.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
Dang, a route as awesome as the West Face should look better than that!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Oct 15, 2008 - 04:26pm PT
Archiving all bolting info together is a good idea.

Erik is 'big' on the action end. I believe that he has replaced more bolts on Yosemite big walls than any other climber. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. When I clipped a shiny anchor bolt on Zodiac or new lead bolt on the lower half of Mescalito I didn't give much thought to how they got there. Most people probably don't give much thought to it.

I think that Erik is asking us all to think before we act. He has given a great deal of both thought and action to this issue.

Cheers,

Doug
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Oct 15, 2008 - 06:52pm PT
I'm with Mark on this one (per the West Face). Someone needs to go up there, retro fit the bolts and clean all that tat off this classic.

JL
dogtown

climber
Where I once was,I think?
Oct 15, 2008 - 07:12pm PT
Bump !! it looks pretty ruff these days.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 15, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
Bump for Eric and the spirit of community service and cooperation

Peace

Karl
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 15, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
The belay bolts and rivets on KAOS were, for the most part, pretty good. We did, however, replace two anchor bolts and put in shiny new ASCA 3/8-inchers.

Cheers,
Pete [and Kate]
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 15, 2008 - 10:56pm PT
Adding to Largo,

When I did the 4th ascent of this rather casual mixed route in 1971, there was ONE bolt on the entire route---it was on lead in the early pitches--- and I bypassed it with a difficult hook move. So then it went boltless, all those thousands of feet of gorgeous native crazy granite. Where did all these kooky anchor arrangements come from?? It was a very friendly and safe route that did not need anything more. Whether it was a free rte or a mixed route, the belays meant the same. We have to try harder.

ph
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
Sounds like Largo and Hudon should do a wall together... I will supply the bolts.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 16, 2008 - 12:02am PT
That would be fun actually, given that we've never done a route together.

It would sort of be funny. I don't know how much John has been climbing lately but I've grabbed rock about three times in the last five years. I'm pretty sure I could get up the West Face, all free, tomorrow but we both had pretty large reps back in the day and it would be fun to see us now in our feeble old age. We'd have a blast either way, I'm sure.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 16, 2008 - 11:02am PT
Yeah Mark, would be cool:

I say you guys do it with vintage gear: Hexes and stoppers, maybe a few pins. I know you could just run out the off width pitch.
I am certain you could both manage up the West Buttress free.

----YOU KNOW BOTH OF YOU WANT BACK ON THE CAPTAIN---
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Oct 16, 2008 - 11:31am PT
Nasnook

Why didn't you post photos of the protection bolts you've been adding to El Cap routes too? You know like the one that you added on the third pitch of the Nose? Replacing anchors is one thing, putting in protection bolts where they're not needed and never were is bs. Thank God we've you around to make thoses choices for everyone. Inner journey? try looking in the mirror and say hey to the outter Prick.
myterious

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 16, 2008 - 12:55pm PT

A big thanks to Erik and ASCA, everytime I belay on a nice shiny ASCA bolt, as oppossed to some ancient rusty 1/4" spinner I'm grateful, keep up the good work!

MM

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
I have no idea why I never climbed with either Mark H. or Max J. I'm mainly on the bike these days so the chance of me ever getting back on the West Face are slim to none. Thing is, I first climbed the West Face with Dale Bard in order to make the second one day ascent of El Cap (in 5 hours) in '76, though this didn't really count since it's not a main (south) face route. I went back for the free ascent with Dwight Brooks and of the first two litches I remember a tricky and inobvious step down to get to the first belay, and continuous (but not too hard) smearing and weird route finding out the arch on the second pitch. I recall some copperheads and bashies and what not on the friction run out just below the second belay, but I can't remember any bolts on that pitch. Wonder how many botls have been added in the meantime??

JL
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
Hey Bullwinkle,

You don't know me and problly never will. But I got to listen to you rant and piss in Erik's face in the lodge my first day back in Yosemite this season. You pretty much ruined my morning, so f*#k you.

You know what, if you got such a beef with any of Eric's bolts, shut your f-king mouth and go chop it. End of story.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
wow hambone,

Nobody asked you to even sit at our table, oh and if you didn't wanna hear me perhaps you shoulda moved your fat ass. Besides weren't you sucking Sean Jones dick up on Half Dome SF? You kinda get off on being a subbie huh?
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