ultimate Yosemite bigwall bolting thread

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Messages 21 - 23 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 16, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
"wow hambone,

Nobody asked you to even sit at our table, oh and if you didn't wanna hear me perhaps you shoulda moved your fat ass. Besides weren't you sucking Sean Jones dick up on Half Dome SF? You kinda get off on being a subbie huh?
"

Actualy, I sat down with Erik when he offered me to pull up a chair, I usually don't sit at the 'cool guy' table...cause I haven't earned my place in your scene yet. The thing I like about Erik is he doesn't seem to care even if I'm just another nobody trade route hack.

Sorry, never heard of Sean Jones, you got the wrong guy.

My point stands, you got issues with bolts stfu and chop them, actions speak louder then words.
GDavis

Trad climber
Oct 16, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
Get a room, you two!

Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 19, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
I know I should continue with the vitriol of "bullwinkel"
and "lambone", but I'm old and just don't have it in me.
But speaking of bolts and wimpiness, a couple of friends
and I just backed off the regular route on Arches Terrace
due to the prospect falling directly onto old(?)
less-than-3/8" anchor bolts on the low angle traverse
pitch. None of our group was particularly heavy, but
freeze thaw cycles, the blankness of the traverse and a
bunch of other rationalizations came to mind.

The humiliating retreat couldn't help but remind me of
the Summer/Fall of '70 when Peter Haan, Kim Schmitz, Marty
and I struck out across the same traverse without thinking
twice about it. I bet in '70 there was at most one 1/4"
bolt at the anchor, and although Peter and Kim's climbing
styles were elegant, strong, and precise; none of us but
Marty would have been called particularly light weight.
What's my point? Not much other than an excuse to bring
up the old days and a Haan/Schmitz story. I do have the
following question/comment, though.

I guess I'm OK with replacing existing bolts without a
whole lot of deliberation. Is that also the consensus in
the Valley now? I live in Seattle and don't get down
there often. I'm bringing this up on the forum because
my partners wanted to REPLACE the anchor bolts on the
Terrace.

Darwin
(hi Peter, if you're still reading this thread)
Messages 21 - 23 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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