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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2008 - 09:29am PT
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Who and when?Thats first not fist.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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You'd need a pretty big fist, no?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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F.a. Bob Scarpelli as a finger and hand crack c. 1955 when he was 3 years old.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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here's a reference to the "infamous" Generator Crack in 1973...
Generator Crack Area. In April 1971, Jerry Coe and I explored a hitherto hidden small 200-foot cliff band directly above the generator building of Generator Crack infamy. This cliff, characterized by knobs, has thus far yielded four fine short routes: The Electric Gully, Chimney for Two, Chickie Pie, and New Diversions (Claude Wreford-Brown also in ascent party). The latter two are exceptionally fine. All are in the F8 range.
RICK SYLVESTER [url="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1973/usa1973_403-433.pdf"]AAJ 1973 p416[/url]
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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I remember sacrificing many hours and much skin, on top-rope, in the fall of '70 to the Generator in an effort to learn the "ritual secrets' of Yosemite climbing.Even then it seemed to be a well-established climb. My efforts there, and similar ones on climbs such as Church Bowl Chimney Right (done wrong!!!!)had only temporary success, since when I next climbed in the Valley 2 years later, I had to start all over again, and still get stopped cold most of the time on the wide and the flared!!!!!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Haven't we just done this subject? Anyway, Generator Crack already was a toprope climb when I started climbing in 1963. It is likely it already was a "climb" for 3-5 years.
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Psst, RickD Scarpelli was 6 in 1955...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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I wonder if I was the first to fall from it without a rope and break my back? Might as well own some record.
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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DBL BMP
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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Prolly, eeyonkee, but I tell ya, the Scarpelli version has more drama than 'merely' grounding and braking your back. He's more objective, as he wasn't personally involved...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Mar 19, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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I remember doing Generator Crack in 1967 or so, with
Barry Bates, but it had been done before that,
and possibly by Barry or Jim Bridwell, maybe Mark Klemens...
couldn't say for sure.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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bump for pix.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Just call it nasty. Severe nasty, even. Ratings suck,Tut.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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It’s clearly not 5.10c but who gives a f*#k...it’s GC the best place to hone your ow skills in the Valley. How many here have done it....how many still can?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Her Tuttle, I recall going there with you and others BITD.
Thanks for inspiring a visit to Doggie Do too . . . pretty stout for 10a.
Good times!
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Risk
Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
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I tried it repeatedly, and proudly failed.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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10C max... do you guys even climb? or remember when you could?
Probably done in the '50's in big boots and with sh#t technique. Ya'll should be embarrassed trying to uprate this thing.
nawmean?
cheers,
BMT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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John Muir frequently soloed down it as a shortcut to the Merced.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Probably done in the '50's in big boots and with sh#t technique. Ya'll should be embarrassed trying to uprate this thing.
nawmean?
Genious and f*#king funny as sh#t.
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