need advice on new how to climb big walls book

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
What? The walls aren't crowded enough these days already?










(however, if anybody calls Locker gay I'm referring them to the first page of this thread)
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
Hi Chris-

Treat it like a big wall: one chapter at a time. Begin with the basics. Imagine you are telling a good friend, who has never climbed before, what he will have to do to get his ass up the the big stone.

Writing the original "Big Walls Tech Manual" was extremely challenging for me, as nothing substantial had been written about big wall tools and techniques since Advanced Rockcraft by Robbins. But after helping lots of friends prepare and climb big stones, the main challenge was to transfer my knowledge onto paper. It definitely helps to "place" yourself in the action as you work the text.

For the CHockstone book, I was lucky, I had John Long as my "editor". He hammered me weekly about my progress, and would send back entire chapters for revision because it needed more "flow" from the basic to advanced topics. Perhaps you will come up with your own "theme" on the book's intrinsic structure.

Whatever you do, I am sure it will be great and creative. Good luck, it is definitely time for a new comprehensive big walls book.
Double D

climber
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
Chris...I'd love to see some serious consideration given to the techniques employed on the big wall speed ascents. Some of the times that walls are being done in astound an old-schooler like me.
The Chief

Trad climber
From the Land your mama told you to stay away from
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
"Lest not we forget how the likes of Batso, Royal, Werner, Charlie and the many other incredible and rebelious pioneers of this discipline, learned to climb a "Big Wall"... "


On Wine and Mescaline?


That could be a good chapter.


Exactly.... not to hip in this day and age.

I do have to agree with PRon's comment. But then again, it is called "Progress".

The Walls around NA will soon eventually turn into the same popular gig as the Euro Alps and their Via Ferrata. Anyone can do it, eh?


James

climber
Leavenworthless
Oct 4, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
Put a bunch of crazy stories in it. Ammon taking enormous whippers, Honnold soloing a few wall routes, and funny anecdotes about Model Paul or Singer or Ben Who Likes Men.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
thanks for all the suggestions. definitely getting me motivated to work on the book and get er done
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Oct 5, 2008 - 11:34am PT
bump, because its better than politics.

Either way you do it, I hope you post it so we can read it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
If you like any of the material that I wrote for Strassman's How to Climb Big Walls, I would love to help out or contribute...as long as you don't poke out my third eye! LOL
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
Put a hat on it...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Oct 5, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
Chris, if you want feedback on the really important stuff, then don't post a half-baked preliminary version, which will waste your readers' efforts on stuff you could easily have fixed yourself.

Post a fairly advanced draft once, take comments, and then move on---don't post the corrected version. The good folks at SuperT can, and will, argue their positions forever. You, presumably, have somewhat less than that amount of time.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 5, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
Rgold is right: post one version, use or ignore the comments, and move on. Things can be iterated to death here. But deuce4 is not: walls are not a good place to start, for those who have never climbed before. Don't need that kind of chapter. Anyone that should be in the readership of such a book ought to be competent with multipitch climbing. What's useful is highlighting what's different from Grade III-IV climbing that the reader is already good at. Plus aid of course. Don't shy away from expressing gear preferences; too many instructionals say it's all good, use whatever you prefer. Most climbers don't have that kind of budget. True, you need a variety of hooks and such, but not so for other gear categories. A useful wall book would tell you, are hybrids really that much better than C3s (or the opposite, as some say), big wall ladders much better or just different than old school etriers, and so on. Also, for wall maneuvers more than any other realm of climbing, really good graphics are critical. I'd get your illustrator in the mix early. My 2c.
pissed

Trad climber
Lake Placid NY and Scranton PA
Oct 5, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
Mr. McNamara,

I can't wait for you to be finished, I will definitely buy a copy. About time someone with (some) sanity puts out a big wall book that I actually stand a chance of understanding.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 5, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
I think it would be excellent content for the site and you'll get food for thought. Good for everybody. You might lose out on a few sales from folks who read it online.

Peace

Karl
Mike.

climber
Oct 6, 2008 - 03:19pm PT
Motivation for CM...

Go, Chris!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 6, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
How about something informative and well written about aid soloing. I see this brought up frequently - people wanting information about soloing and being told the same thing all the time - Currently, there's really nothing out there. I remember finding vague information before my first solo and really learned trial-by-fire, which was fine for me.

Just a thought...
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 6, 2008 - 04:14pm PT
Some good suggestions.

Personally, I think you need to refine it a bit before sharing because, as someone noted earlier, you may get a ton of responses to content you've already committed to changing.

Still, having said that, some of the comments you receive may help direct or change the course of the book.

Good luck.
Mike.

climber
Oct 6, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
Chris, If ya wanna reduce the chafe/noise, you might consider putting an editorial group together and doing it offline.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 6, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
"aid climbing is neither"

Boo. Hiss.
CF

climber
Oct 6, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
Maybe start your own Wiki site as it will be easier to track edits?

Link to hosted Wiki's
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Starting_and_Running_a_Wiki_Website/Hosted_Wikis
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 6, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
I suppose weakwrist climbs sans shoes, rope and clothing, but I would rather not see for myself.
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