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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 10, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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Hey guys,
Here's a link to my video that shows my new portaledge that I designed and built after some frustrating experiences on El Cap. I've got a website coming real soon that details everything including how to order, but in the meantime, I'd like to get comments and feedback from this video.
http://www.wpa.net/~rpawlish/bwl/bwl.wmv
Thanks in advance,
Michael Kozusko
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Binks
Social climber
i am of the universe and you know what it's worth.
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Sep 10, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
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It does look very simple to set up, definitely an attractive feature.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Sep 10, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
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Neat system.
Looks short, How long is it?
Why the triangle shape?
Prod.
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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Simple set up is the key, but it is also super strong. Bed stays tight. No adjustments needed.
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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78 inches long, 43 at widest point. The triangle shape is what makes the whole thing work. It is super rigid.
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newyorker
Trad climber
White Plains, NY
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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Very cool design, man.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
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Pretty spiffy. Looks like due to the bends that it doesn't pack down very small, kinda bulky looking. On my of big gripes with the BD ledge for example is that it only packs down to ~4.5', which sticks way up out of a haul bag for the walkoff, and basically makes it a mess to get most of the rest of your crap in there to get down.
I guess the other question is which ledge you had trouble with? I've setup Fish Ledges myself from a hanging belay by headlamp without much frigging at all. The BD ledge by contrast required 2 dudes while standing on level ground due to it's impressive girth.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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so I take it, its a one man ledge? How much does it weigh?
look like you did a good job.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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Hey, I like it! Need to see some photos, though. Important things you need to have - based on poor designs of other ledges - are TONS of adjustability in the adjustment straps so that you can hang it in off-centre and awkward places, and clip-in daisy thingies on the same straps.
If you can get one to me in Yosemite by early next week, I could give it a test run up the wall for ya. It would have the honoUr of sharing my 365th night on the side of the Big Stone.
Cheers,
Pete
Big Wall Camper
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
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I had a bomb shelter. setting it up in an el cap updraft while solo was why I designed this one. The packed size is the only area where it doesn't beat the rectangular ledges. It's 4 ft. 6 inches long. the top of the haul bag is only 4 inches round but the bottom end is 4 inches by 20 inches. It won't go in a pig very well but it easily straps on the outside. Weight is 11 lbs. Production models are actually a little bigger than the one in this video. I desined it to be a deluxe single but two really close friends can fit on it. Production model will also have two beer pouches.
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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Hey Pete, the straps separate at the clip in point. you can use two or three bolts to eliminate all swinging. Nice when two guys are on it at a belay. I should be in full swing within two weeks and will get a couple out to Yosemite for some hard men to wring out.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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Ok if you want to let some hard men try it, but please leave one for this out-of-shape off-the-couch lard-assed part-time big wall camper, eh? We commit to the wall about next Thursday or Friday Sept 18 or 19, FYI.
Beer holders?! NOW YOU'RE TALKIN', dude!! That is a fan-fukkin'-tastic idea. I usually clip my helmet in upside-down to hold my beer, but occasionally I tip it and spill a bit, a grievous sin indeed. Could you make a custom pouch that will fit a bottle of shiraz?
Oh yeah! Can you put a slot in the side of the pouch to accomodate the handle of my coffee mug in the morning??
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 10, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
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wow, interesting. I like how there are no sharp corners.
is the break down just as easy?
how stable is the three strap design relative to a 4 or 6 strap design? tippy?
rainfly?
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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break down is just as quick as set up. Fly is conventional but lighter than bd and metolius. Fly is being sewn up as we speak. Thats why no pictures of it yet and why web site isn't up. Hopefully all will happen next week.
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:08pm PT
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It has four straps. Very stable and only one strap to deal with when you are standing on it
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 10, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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It would be most swell if you could post up some [still] photos. Or even email 'em to me. Cheers.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 10, 2008 - 05:54pm PT
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looks pimp, very curious.
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Hey Pete, sorry but I won't be able post photos until this weekend. My finished ledges are at the fabric shop. I will get a complete system to you asap. Thanks.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Sep 10, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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Whaaaaat! Thats AWESOME!
I saw you pull the ledge out, saw that it was just over a minute long video... no way. Hurry, I will buy one (and just hang it from my ceiling, but hey, thats more than some ledges get used ;D)
Being a triangle could be a really cool change. You can lean against the wall and kick your legs out straight and not have them dangle, kinda cool. Also while you sleep you got a spot off to the side for extrea gear instead of having it hang all around you. Bitchin!
I didn't read up earlier, does it come with a fly?? how easy/difficult is attaching it?
CHEERS! And great work, you got me sold man.
ah yes, you do have a fly. Cool!
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mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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To GDavis, The useable space is wonderful. Thank's for seeing it so fast. MPK
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