Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic |
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 10, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
|
Hey guys,
Here's a link to my video that shows my new portaledge that I designed and built after some frustrating experiences on El Cap. I've got a website coming real soon that details everything including how to order, but in the meantime, I'd like to get comments and feedback from this video.
http://www.wpa.net/~rpawlish/bwl/bwl.wmv
Thanks in advance,
Michael Kozusko
|
|
Binks
Social climber
i am of the universe and you know what it's worth.
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
|
It does look very simple to set up, definitely an attractive feature.
|
|
Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
|
Neat system.
Looks short, How long is it?
Why the triangle shape?
Prod.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
|
Simple set up is the key, but it is also super strong. Bed stays tight. No adjustments needed.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
|
78 inches long, 43 at widest point. The triangle shape is what makes the whole thing work. It is super rigid.
|
|
newyorker
Trad climber
White Plains, NY
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
|
Very cool design, man.
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
|
Pretty spiffy. Looks like due to the bends that it doesn't pack down very small, kinda bulky looking. On my of big gripes with the BD ledge for example is that it only packs down to ~4.5', which sticks way up out of a haul bag for the walkoff, and basically makes it a mess to get most of the rest of your crap in there to get down.
I guess the other question is which ledge you had trouble with? I've setup Fish Ledges myself from a hanging belay by headlamp without much frigging at all. The BD ledge by contrast required 2 dudes while standing on level ground due to it's impressive girth.
|
|
rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
|
so I take it, its a one man ledge? How much does it weigh?
look like you did a good job.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
|
Hey, I like it! Need to see some photos, though. Important things you need to have - based on poor designs of other ledges - are TONS of adjustability in the adjustment straps so that you can hang it in off-centre and awkward places, and clip-in daisy thingies on the same straps.
If you can get one to me in Yosemite by early next week, I could give it a test run up the wall for ya. It would have the honoUr of sharing my 365th night on the side of the Big Stone.
Cheers,
Pete
Big Wall Camper
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
|
I had a bomb shelter. setting it up in an el cap updraft while solo was why I designed this one. The packed size is the only area where it doesn't beat the rectangular ledges. It's 4 ft. 6 inches long. the top of the haul bag is only 4 inches round but the bottom end is 4 inches by 20 inches. It won't go in a pig very well but it easily straps on the outside. Weight is 11 lbs. Production models are actually a little bigger than the one in this video. I desined it to be a deluxe single but two really close friends can fit on it. Production model will also have two beer pouches.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
|
Hey Pete, the straps separate at the clip in point. you can use two or three bolts to eliminate all swinging. Nice when two guys are on it at a belay. I should be in full swing within two weeks and will get a couple out to Yosemite for some hard men to wring out.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
|
Ok if you want to let some hard men try it, but please leave one for this out-of-shape off-the-couch lard-assed part-time big wall camper, eh? We commit to the wall about next Thursday or Friday Sept 18 or 19, FYI.
Beer holders?! NOW YOU'RE TALKIN', dude!! That is a fan-fukkin'-tastic idea. I usually clip my helmet in upside-down to hold my beer, but occasionally I tip it and spill a bit, a grievous sin indeed. Could you make a custom pouch that will fit a bottle of shiraz?
Oh yeah! Can you put a slot in the side of the pouch to accomodate the handle of my coffee mug in the morning??
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
|
wow, interesting. I like how there are no sharp corners.
is the break down just as easy?
how stable is the three strap design relative to a 4 or 6 strap design? tippy?
rainfly?
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
|
break down is just as quick as set up. Fly is conventional but lighter than bd and metolius. Fly is being sewn up as we speak. Thats why no pictures of it yet and why web site isn't up. Hopefully all will happen next week.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:08pm PT
|
It has four straps. Very stable and only one strap to deal with when you are standing on it
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
|
It would be most swell if you could post up some [still] photos. Or even email 'em to me. Cheers.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 05:54pm PT
|
looks pimp, very curious.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
|
Hey Pete, sorry but I won't be able post photos until this weekend. My finished ledges are at the fabric shop. I will get a complete system to you asap. Thanks.
|
|
GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
|
Whaaaaat! Thats AWESOME!
I saw you pull the ledge out, saw that it was just over a minute long video... no way. Hurry, I will buy one (and just hang it from my ceiling, but hey, thats more than some ledges get used ;D)
Being a triangle could be a really cool change. You can lean against the wall and kick your legs out straight and not have them dangle, kinda cool. Also while you sleep you got a spot off to the side for extrea gear instead of having it hang all around you. Bitchin!
I didn't read up earlier, does it come with a fly?? how easy/difficult is attaching it?
CHEERS! And great work, you got me sold man.
ah yes, you do have a fly. Cool!
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
|
To GDavis, The useable space is wonderful. Thank's for seeing it so fast. MPK
|
|
Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
|
and it looks like to can turn it into a hanglider and fly away if you're stuck...
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
|
How did you know? There is an accessory kit that has foot mounted horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Glide ratio should be around 8 to 1. I think Chris Mac will test fly it.
|
|
Jordan Ramey
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
|
That is pretty sweet looking. I'm interested to hear more about them. Great thinking outside the rectangular box.
|
|
Offset
climber
slc
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
|
nice job! it's the 3-legged stool of ledges. could be groudbreaking!!
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 01:39am PT
|
Very impressive - please post pictures of the fly when you have them.
That's a joke about the hang-gliding porta-ledge...right?
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 02:37am PT
|
Looks really interesting - good ol' American ingenuity coming out of PA.
One question: can't really tell in the vid, but it looks like you're holding a lynch pin in your right hand, and that you set it after swiveling and setting the triangle shape. Is that right? If it is, that lynch pin is on a keeper in the final version?
What route were you on when inspiration struck?
Frustration is the mother of ingenuity.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (the edge of Treason)
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 08:09am PT
|
Bump
|
|
Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 08:53am PT
|
How much will it cost? (including fly)
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2008 - 09:05am PT
|
LeBruce, yeah, it's a .375inch stainless pin that you slide thru slots in the two base leg tubes. It's tied to the tube with cord. That is the only unassembled piece in the whole unit. Everything else is hinged together so all you do is unfold it. I was on Zodiac last year. In 1996 I was very low on the salathe when the valley flood storm hit. That time I never did get my ledge apart. I lowered it to the ground fully set up with the fly still on. I was in a waterfall the entire time. The ledge was wasted.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 09:26am PT
|
Yeah, the cost part please...
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 11:37am PT
|
Chris - He says in one of the posts above that it weighs in at 11 lbs.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
|
Ledge is 11 lbs. Fly is 2 1/2. 650 bucks for ledge. 850 with fly. I've used it with another company's rectangular single fly and it works fine. Just loose, but water tight. Tubing is 1 1/4 inch by .065 6065 aluminum. Stronger than the other guys. Fabric is all 1080 ballistics. Straps adjust the usual way but they can be separated to clip more than one anchor point.
Patent pending.
I'll post a new video by early next week. Production model is bigger and roomier than one in current video. I'll show close ups of everything and explain theory and mechanics.
I'm doing all the work except the sewing. That's being done pro by Equinox. 100% U.S. made.
Ledges are ready to go. Flies won't be ready for a week or so.
I AM SERIOUS ABOUT THE BEER POUCHES. DESIGNED TO COMPLY WITH INTERNATIONAL STANDARD 556.GJH 7890. THAT HAPPENS TO BE THE EXACT DIMENSIONS OF A 16 OUNCE KING COBRA MALT LIQUOR.
Will be made in various colors.
Hopefully I will get to Yosemite in October with ledges for sale and some loaners for testing.
Thanks.
|
|
newyorker
Trad climber
White Plains, NY
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
|
sounds like it would be a bargain at twice the price...
|
|
Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
|
Nicely done. If you're putting together a mailing/marketing list, could you add me? I'll forward any info to the Club Arrampicata Napoli climbing group. Cheers
|
|
MOsucks
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2008 - 12:23am PT
|
A couple things I thought I would note:
What is the plan for when the fabric stretches?
Also you might consider a fourth support strap in the middle of the long section, over time the aluminum fatigue will get the best of it.
What kind of heat treatment has been done on the aluminum? Personally I would rather see one made from a high strength steel, it could be done with nearly the same weight...
I would recommend doing some calculations to insure you have a high safety factor above the strength of the aluminum if you aren't going to put that strap in.
Just a couple considerations
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 09:40am PT
|
To MOsucks,
Yes, there is a strap in the middle of the base side. The tubing overlaps 8 inches in the middle. Strength and rigidity of base side is crucial to overall rigidity. The fabric stretch over time is tightened up by adjusting the frame. Optional bolt holes are drilled at the reinforced tubing ends to adjust size of entire frame in any dimension. This is to negate the need to adjust anything when you are on the wall. You can even tighten fabric in one section and loosen it in another depending on how you like to be supported while sleeping. Tubing strength is overkill. The orientation of the bends in tubing adds to the rigidity. I will try to get a video together where I explain all of this while I'm on the ledge. You have asked the critical engineering questions. Web site will also cover all of this. New video coming soon. Thanks.
|
|
Peyton Hassinger
Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2008 - 10:33am PT
|
Looks like it's way easier to set up! Nice job. Enticing.
1) How much will it cost?
2) Will the slightly bigger production models fit two people relatively comfortably?
3) I'm still not clear on whether or not the straps will be adjustable- this is crucial (even if they also detach for clipping different bolts which is a great idea).
4) Will it fit into a big Fish haulbag?
5) Be sure to reinforce the trampoline where the tubes run through it on the side that touches the rock, otherwise you gotta put duct tape on it.
|
|
mpk
Big Wall climber
pa.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
|
Price 650 for ledge
850 with fly
There is room for two but one won't be able to stretch out, unless you spoon up close.
Straps are fully adjustable.
Width of folded unit in it's bag at the bottom is around 18 inches. That could be a problem. I strap it on the outside for hiking and hang it under the pig for hauling.
Wall side tubing has a double layer of ballistics nylon.
|
|
MOsucks
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
|
I see the strap now, it was a little hidden be the camera angle.
The pin connection sounds good, no possibility for sticking or breaking like a latch.
I am sure you are doing this but make sure for the production models that the bag used for hauling it is reinforced, it would if after a year of use the stitching broke and it fell...
When you get the new video I am sure everything will make more since. It seems like you have refined it; though, we may still be able to give some advice.
good luck
|
|
rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
|
|
thread bump:
so did anyone buy one of these and test it out?
|
|
nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
|
|
Bonjour mpk!
Have you found a name for your portalegdge…? I have thought of this one: “DELTALEDGE”
What do you think about it…
Stephane / Nuts Museum
|
|
John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
|
|
Is there any updated link with photos, showing the fly, etc...
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
Looks like the next generation, all right! Would love to see the whole package: fly, roominess inside with fly, close-ups on adjustability, etc. but I would say you have a nice product there.
Congratulations!
Just realized this thread is old. Did anything ever become of this ledge?
|
|
crossman04
Trad climber
san diego, ca
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
|
bump. just curious about how the ledges fared
|
|
Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
|
bump for awesome ledge
|
|
| Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!