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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
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Classic
A checkered buttoned shirt, shorts, shoes and chalk bag.
Mr. casual.
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dwell
climber
Pollock Pines
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Aug 22, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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Why does watching this trouble me? Such a acheivement, such a demonstration of vision, discipline, bravery and effort comes across as trivial and meaningless. What an accent!
What a lame choice of audio captured here to represent a morning that could and should inspire poets. Best wishes Alex.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 22, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Boy, for one of the proudest solos ever, that video (montage hell) portrayed none of the excitement of soloing 5.12 up so high because the person editing the footage was either too impatient or didn't trust the footage enough to settle on a shot long enough to grock onto what was really happening. It's the curse of much of this new climbing stuff - just way too hurried and no sense of visual diction - like writing a story with two and three word sentenses the whole time.
Que lastima . . .
JL
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Aug 22, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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I agree, I want to see a re-edit of the video, sans music. Nobody loves music as much as me, but Jesus, I can barely hear him talking... kind of defeats the purpose.
And... when what is happening in front of the camera is absolutely spellbinding, you really don't need to cut much...
But Alex's climb. That is so out there I can barely comprehend.
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Aug 22, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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yeah, what the heck...I don't understand why any of these guys solo for the camera, but if they're going to...why don't we see more than Potter on the Enduro corner during the credits, or Honnold chalking up at a no hands looking over at Half dome. Why not a video of them doing Astroman, real time. It would only be like an hour and a half, and I would gladly sit through the 2hr.50min. version of this Half Dome one...and if it does get boring during the 5.6..there's always fast forward. I've never paid for a climbing video in my life...but I would support a real time, complete version of one of those...or Hans and Yugi on the Nose.
Alex is solid and inspiring. He's super supportive of all the rest of us lightweights too, and makes climbing seem fun instead of edgy and dangerous...but I still worry about him, and the people he might influence in certain ways.
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 23, 2009 - 12:10am PT
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incredible accomplishment
shitty video
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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He is so talented and solid, doing stuff that I can't even imagine. Very impressive individual.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Aug 23, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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Warbler - It's knott the video, it's the editing...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 04:04am PT
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You would almost need to hauled to keep up with the speed these young ins climb at, or some kinda winch.
edit- Oh yeah, lame video.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:38am PT
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He seems so casual...the video did too. Almost as though they complemented each other. Wonder what the story was with the filming.
I'm not sure anything less than watching the whole climb would be enough for me-
sheesh, what a mind boggle...!
DD
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bob
climber
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:42am PT
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Was that the all the way go for it send or was it a go back and do the comfy pitches for the camera. Hence, no 12 slab, just looking up at it? I'm not dissing and I don't know about this one, but don't some of those guys do that sort of thing? Send, then go back for comfort pics. Whoa would it be nice to consider the Zig-zags comfort pitches without a rope!!!!!!!!!!
Yikes. Amazing accomplishment. Not that people need pushing through video of that sort of thing.
Jakey, AZ needs you.
Bob J.
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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It was a repeat earlier this year...I think he re-soloed everything but the last pitch...I'm not positive though.
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Brendan
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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agreed, this thing needs to be seen as a feature length movie. I would gladly sit through a 45 minute (or however much footage there actually is) version of this solo.
...amazing and inspiring beyond words.
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Aug 23, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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I can't fault it as an internet commercial. An amazing accomplishment to say the least. He deserves the food stamps he got for filming it too.
Anyone remember the video, maybe by National Geographic? It was very quiet. First the guy was training, slacklining and doing lock offs or one arms. Then during the climb, the camera was tightly focused on the guy who was soloing. I remember him reaching back over small roofs, hanging, chalking one hand at a time, and then mantling. At the end they panned out, and he was a couple or a few hundred feet off the deck. Anyway, it kind of blew my mind.
Much more art in both solos than I will ever know. Still, I remember more art in the older movie. Then again, maybe "These are the good ole days.". Climb safe out there.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 23, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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I'm with Largo. The editing drove me crazy on this. But the ascent--Alex is one with the gods! What a feeling that must be to walk up and zip to the top in a few hours--no hassles of belay, gear, just pure movement. I've only soloed a few easy things and didn't get much out of it other than the desire to not do it anymore, but I see the appeal.
This screams for a better director/editor.
BaD
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 23, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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"yeah, what the heck...I don't understand why any of these guys solo for the camera. . . "
The now-uncommon misconception issuing from the previous quote is that the "reason" these guys are doing what they are doing is simple to document the climb on tape. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.
A lot of recreational adventure sport enthusiasts don't quite understand that these guys are huge time adventure athletes, and the demand for media of them is also huge - from both sponsors and from us. People like Potter, Surfer Kelly Slater, the Moto-X guys, all the big air sketeboarders and Half pipe masters, alpine and half pipe skiers, etc. - they all have photographers and video doos following them all over because they're so often doing historic stuff.
We're not talking about weekend warriors "soul climbing" on 5.10 hand cracks, and wishing they were, or thinking they be should be, or that the sport is somehow less because they aren't, is IMO, not reflective of today's world.
JL
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