Article: Salathe 1988 - The Free Salathe

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Messages 21 - 28 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 18, 2008 - 10:19am PT
The vision is truly the headline on this one.

Incredible.


'Pass the Pitons' Pete and jgHedge, you guys are a joke
h2oman

climber
Sep 19, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
I'm not really a climber anymore (never really was, actually), and I almost never come to this site. Just happened to open this one up...

Occasionally someone comes along and ushers in a complete leap in standards in the utmost of style, but that is rarely the case in climbing. (Henry Barber comes to mind, but not many others...) I knew Todd well, and he was never one to wait around and let others see if something could be done. He spent his life seeing possibilities and trying his damnedest (sp?) to make them happen. Not only that, but he was just a hell of a lot of fun to hang around with!
Raafie

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Sep 19, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
Was a great summer. I bought the Simulator at the "Camp IV Yard Sale" for $40. Todd was completely down to earth, and spent probably half an hour talking about training techniques with me. (A total gumby by comparison.)

bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 10:33am PT
bump.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
Somebody would eventually have the vision to do it.

Not to rag on the FA or anything, but Clint gave me a case of red ass when I mentioned that some of the free El Cap routes were worked top down just like the route Growing Up on Half Dome.

I saw this in the original story:

We went as far as Sous Le Toit ledge, leaving fixed ropes that were ultimately anchored to a big block just over the rim. We then climbed back out to a stance just at the lip of the Great Roof and began work on the crack in the headwall.

Several days were spent on these headwall pitches as we toproped or led them, or sussed out the protection, and just got used to being in such an exposed place.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Mar 20, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
I saw the slide show presented in Casper--at the Hilton Hotel Grand Ballroom, of all places. Must have been around 1992? Beth Wald was also present. I was totally stunned at what these guys had accomplished. It was a climb way ahead of it's time, and all nay-sayer comments are simply a very bad case of extremely sour grapes. And for those of us fortunate to be living in Wyoming, these boyz were "the Home Team!"
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Mar 20, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
Really nice! I have always wondered how the NPS does the power drilling confrontation? Do they mail a ticket now-a-days, or try to beat you to the top and catch a person. That would be a funny low speed chase to observe from a helicopter.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 21, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
So So cool. Thanks Ben for the bump.

Amazing about the mindset change from the route being impossible to finished.

 Luke
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