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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 18, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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It was blazing hot here last weekend hit 32C/90F. We went for a dip in Alice lake halfway through the day to cool off. Climbing at Murrin has the advantage of a lake immediately at hand. My favourites there are Zoe 9, Bog Wall 8, Wicker Cranium 9, A Little Testis 10b and Totally Clips 10b.
The Smoke Bluff Connection is a fun fake multipitch in the Smoke Bluffs if you can got on it since the first pitch (Mosquito) is one of the most popular climbs in the area.
Snake 9 is my favourite route on the Apron.
I think the Grand Wall is doable for solid .10 climbers with good lieback endurance. I did the Apron Strings/ Mercy Me variation last year with my hardest previous lead having been around .10b. It wasn't pretty but I got up it. There's a rap route off the Split Pillar if you take 2 ropes with you. It's an amazing line.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Aug 18, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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Don't forget the world class bouldering 10 minutes from camp!
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Aug 19, 2008 - 02:29am PT
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its no biggie to rap off the split pillar- lots of folks do it. do the Apron Strings start (cruel shoes looks awesome, but too scary for us...)
that said, if you're solid on 5.10 cracks, just go for it.
We spent two weeks there last summer and had a blast. generally a 5.10 leader in the valley, i didnt fall off anything there, and we climbed up to .11c at times.
other recommendations
Exasperator (link the pitches!)
Peasant's Route (wild finish)
Angel's Crest (not super hard, but great views and some awesome exposure)
Smoke Bluff Connection
Neat and Cool
The Grand Wall
Crime of the Century (do this when you're feeling good- its .11c!)
Partners in Crime
The Zip (the funnest .10 there)
High Mountain Woody
Paul's Crack
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Paul_in_Van
Trad climber
Near Squampton
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Aug 19, 2008 - 02:49am PT
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Hey there;
Agree, everything listed is good.
I second Milkrun - the two dihedral pitches are great.
Ultimate everything is a good alternate for the Buttress, also over on the same wall is upper Echelon (bit harder, but similar style).
If you only do one route to the rim do Angels Crest or the Grand, depending on your feelings. The crux on the grand is really the sword and there is good gear. Once you get past the sword, you have 11a bolted lieback and then 10a w/ few bolts (well bolted where 10a) and then 10c to the rim (undercling to lieback to jugs on a big flake). If you are sending high grade 10s you might have a challenging but great time. The grand did make a top 50 climbs list somewhere out there.
The pappose has some of the funnest easy 10 climbing in squamish.
Also in the bluffs, recommend Talking Holds, 10a overhanging fun, then set a TR on 11- direct. Will be out of the sun in the PM, which can be an issue in Squamish since most of the walls face W. Murrin is great to avoid sun.
And speaking of Murrin, forget the sport climbing in Chek, do stuff at the Pet instead. Warm up at Up Among the Firs. Well bolted slabs and gear at 10b and interesting face climbing at 10d there (Totally Clips, Little Testis, Poster Boy)
The alternate finish to Birds of Prey goes L up past a couple of bolts or so? Heard was 11-? Newish and looks interesting, the correct finish is great, run the 10a and 8 together for 50M of fun.
Paul
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2008 - 03:26am PT
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Killer! I'm definitely printing all this out and taking it along on the trip. :)
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kwit
climber
california
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:08am PT
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definitely spend a day up at murrin--'up among the firs' and 'pet wall' especially!
'a little testis' is a sweet finger splitter in a dihedral and to the left of it is a wild overhung slab thing...not sure how it works out, but somehow it goes at 10d.
at pet wall warm up on pleasant pheasant and then do even steven--10c strenuous crack, and excellent.
don't step on a hornets nest, though. they live up in that loamy soil off-trail.
i did and it made my climbing day a little more, ahem, intense.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Aug 19, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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World's Toughest Milkman at Milkman Wall in Murrin is a great 5.8, also Horrors of Ivan and Beat the Clock.
Hey, I heard you can still climb at Upper Malamute if you rap in? Is that true?
I really missed the climbing at the Lower when they closed it:
Id Arete, Overly hanging out, Hand Jive, Crescent Crack, Brown Ale, Clean Crack, Caboose - Damn...
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 19, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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yes, the upper malamute is still accessible, having two ropes makes some of the rap approaches simpler. High Mountain Woody is a must-do 5.8.
Climbing the apron classics by headlamp is a great way to avoid crowds & traffic noise. Nice place to watch the moon rise, too.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 19, 2008 - 10:40am PT
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The 11a on the Sword (the pitch above Split Pillar) is only one move with good pro right at your face. You could just yard pro if the move felt weird-- easy A0 w/o slings. Then you get a hands-down rest and an exposed but easy enduro 10b layback.
And the right side of Split Pillar is thin hands to hands or else laybacking and there are chockstones in the wide section so you don't have to off-width. You could toss in a cam anywhere for an A0 rest and keep it down to easy .10. Same thing with the undercling up high.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 19, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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Most of the suggestions have been pretty good. Probably because most of the climbing at Squamish is pretty good. It is getting crowded though, and when the temps get high the few shady routes get serious line-ups.
Someone mentioned the cracks that line the base of the Grand Wall, and several posters have mentioned individual ones by name, but for me the best of the lot is the Peasants Route. Not that any individual pitch is better than things like Seasoned in the Sun (one of Anders' routes) or Exasperator or Arrowroot, but because it is five pitches, and generally gets less traffic than the others. Cruel Shoes is also a superb climb and can be done either on its own, or as an approach to the Grand Wall. The two-pitch Merci Me, which also can be used as an approach to the Grand is also a brilliant climb in its own right. Two pitches, and only 5.8/9 but fantastic dike hiking in a very exposed location.
Regarding the Malemute, the closure at the base is open to various interpretations. But the top is certainly open, and has a collection of fun things to do. If you're feeling a bit adventurous, find your way down to the top of Quagmire Crack (a little below the climbs on the top tier), rap to its base, and climb back out. 10c and a true gem of a crack pitch. The alternative approach is to climb one of the two routes below it (can't remember their names) that start in the big rockfall area, but if you're climbing on the top tier for the day, it's probably easiest to approach it en rappel.
Another great 5.10 day can be had on the Sheriff's Badge wall. Several posters have mentioned the Angels Crest, which forms the left-hand border of the wall. It is an enjoyable 10-pitch outing, but more memorable for its position than for the actual climbing, which, aside from a couple of pitches, is mostly pretty ordinary. A more interesting alternative, with far better climbing, is to join the Angels Crest at half-height via Borderline. The first pitch of that route is nothing special, but the next four are excellent and varied. And you can easily avoid the 11c crux on p2 via a 5.9 variation to the right. The sun doesn't hit that wall till about 2:30, so if you get an early start you can enjoy some shade.
If you want a slightly shorter day, climb the first two pitches of Borderline, taking the 5.9 exit on p2, to the base of Blazing Saddles. The second pitch of that rig rates five stars on a three-star scale. It will also put to rest any thoughts you had about Squamish grades being soft (protects well, though, so don't worry).
Give us a tr when you get back.
D
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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If you are into some "backcountry" climbing adventure,
Check out "Fluffy Kitten Wall"
Awesome crack climbing, quiet, waaaay up there, and shady.
It's in the book.
Access issues at present, but still do-able.
Cheers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Check out "Fluffy Kitten Wall" Awesome crack climbing, quiet, waaaay up there, and shady.
I think two friends and I were the first to get up on that wall, probably almost 30 yrs ago, and I haven't been back on it. Always wanted to, but somehow didn't get to it. Have you got some pictures you can post? Or stories? Or thoughts about which routes you liked?
The other side of Habrich has some pretty cool climbing as well.
D
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 19, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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D.
Wow! Would like to hear of your adventures there... 30 yrs. ago.
That Route "Wonderful thing about Tiggers" seemed the best. Really good stuff.
Also, another, "Cat O Nine tails" , had some incredible pitches.
Climbed there mostly pre- road closure, when those heat waves hit the Chief. T shirts in the shade I remember, looking down below my heals at Planes flying up the Valley.
Did you guys summit? Did you climb wall to Climbers right of Kitten Wall?
Could try and dig up photos if you are interested.
Cheers.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Here are a few pics for inspiration...maybe.
The exposure and amazingly green views on the Cheif are awesome...
...if a bit urban and noisy at times.
The signage is abundant and, at times, a little wierd.
This his me heroically top-stepping my ladder as I send the descent trail.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Melissa, the trail sign "To All Peaks. Carry Water." isn't at all weird. Many similar trail signs in the area, and throughout southwest B.C., were placed in the mid to late 1960s. Part information, part education.
You can somewhat date the sign by the growth of the tree around it, and the rustiness of the fasteners. The one in the photo is probably from 1966 or 1967, and may even have been placed by my father.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 11:24am PT
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I took a bunch of pictures of these old signs. I guess "weird" is relative to what is familiar to the person doing the looking (and their sense of humor). To me seeing all of these old metal signs half consumed by the tree (some were dated as late as the 1980's and were barely visable from under the bark of the fast-growing trees), was an unusual sight. There were a few commemorating when the trails were made or revamped on commemorating the FA of the grand, etc. The itty-bitty warning "To All Peaks Carry Water" was funny to me though. I'm sorry if I should be taking it more seriously. I enjoy seeing things that I think are strange and that why I posted it for others. It wasn't meant as an insult.
We also spent a bunch of time going up and down the logging road w/ the guide making sure that we had it sussed which entries into the woods would be right for each route...only to learn that the name of the routes we were looking for was on the guideposts a couple of feet back into the woods. Doh!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 20, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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Wow! Would like to hear of your adventures there... 30 yrs. ago.
I wish I could tell you stories of big adventure, fearless climbing, and off-the-scale manliness, but in reality it was just another great day at Squamish. We'd looked at the wall from below en route to other projects, and decided to try to find a way up to the base and see how far we could get from there. There was a certain amount of crashing around in the bushes, and I vaguely recall some concern about a stream crossing, but eventually we did get to the real rock, and by the end of the afternoon had climbed about three pitches.
Given the potential of the wall, I'm not sure why we never went back. There was just so much unclimbed rock within easy reach of Vancouver back then that what became The Fluffy Kitten Wall didn't stand out. I think the three of us (my then wife Corina and our friend Dick Mitten) had our sights focused on bigger projects in the mountains of the Chiliwack River valley around that time.
David
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Leaving tomorrow morning!
Unfortunately, the weather doesn't look too great right now, though...
weather.com
Sat - Partly Cloudy
Sun - Rain
Mon - Showers
Tue - Few Showers
Wed - Showers
Thu - Showers
Fri - Showers
Sat - Showers
Bummer!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 22, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Leaving tomorrow morning! Unfortunately, the weather doesn't look too great right now, though...
If the rain is just ocasional showers, you'll be able to climb most days. If you are looking for other things to do on rainy days, pick up a copy of a small guidebook (the name of which I forget) to hiking and Mtn biking. It's by Kevin McLane (who does most of the climbing guidebooks for Squamish) and is in the "double book" format where the front half is hikes, but you flip it over and read it from the other end for MTB trails. There's a hike called "High Falls" that you should put on your list of non-climbing activities. I think it requires a drive of 45 minutes or so, and the hike is only a couple of hours return, but the gorge and waterfall you get to are amazing.
D
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 22, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
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I agree with Ghost. Monday we'll probably get some rain but the rest is unsettled weather coming through so I hope there will be some good climbing weather in there (fingers crossed). A lot of the routes dry in a couple of hours, especially the slabs. I bought an "I love wet crack- Squamish" t-shirt last year...
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