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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
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Hey everybody,
Heading up to Squamish soon for the first time for a full week of climbing... super psyched!
Does anybody have any favorite routes, crags, or linkups that we should try to get on? Non-climbing beta would also be much appreciated. (My partner and I both climb up to 5.10 crack and face.)
Thanks in advance!
 Justin
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 16, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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I have one suggestion;...bring a rainjacket.....
The Clean Crack
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 16, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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Of course Mighty Hiker is a distinquished guidebook author for the area, but I'll throw in my two cents worth anyway. Lots of great climbing there.
favorite crack climbs:
Quarry Man 5.8
Penny Lane 5.9
Seasoned in the Sun 10a
The Zip 10a (perfect hands)
Exasperator 10c
Centerstreet 10a (hard for 10a, took one of my few leader falls on this)
Flying Circus 10a
Apron Strings (some 10b liebacking) 10b
Merci Street 10b (intimidating -- good practice for the Split Pillar right side)
The four pitch thing that goes up the Neat and Cool Area
Face:
Deidre 5.8
Merci Me 5.8
Local Boys Do Good 10d
There are more, I'm not remembering the names and can't find my guidebook
EDIT: I find the stuff up to 10c overrated at squamish. That is, Squamish 10b = Yosemite 10a = Index 5.9
But in the harder routes, the ratings are very similar to Yosemite.
And, the weather is usually great this time of year
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Aug 16, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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Todd,
Clean crack is now off limits. The lower malemutes down by the tracks got closed back in 2003 by the railroad because some dumbass with a walkman on (climber) got hit by a train.
So Old School, Crescent Crack, Hand Jive, Caboose, and whatever else what down there are all toast.
According to Carly the Offwidth Freak (used to work for Locker I think? or at least got knocked up by one of his employees?) reported back that the closure sign was bolted right next to clean crack, lowering the rating to about 10b if you used it as a foothold (which she was doing when she got rousted by railroad workers...)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 16, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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We just went there for the first time in July. So here's a kind of long bit on some of the things that we learned as area newbies...
First...all of those signs about leaving valuables in your rig...believe them. Our credit cards only got stolen from the Apron parking lot. By the time we phoned them in, some numbnuts had tried to buy $1800 in booze which at least sent up the red flag and got the cards automatically shut off. We left the rig at the campground, hid a little plastic and cash, and hoofed it from there on subsequent adventures.
We were partial to doing longer stuff and didn't do any sport climbing or boulders. Angel's Crest was the favorite overall of my bf and I both. The climbing is not all scrubbed clean splitters to say the least but the position is often outrageous.
Rock On to Squamish Buttress was a fun long link to the summit too. We both thought that the pitches themselves were the best on Rock On and the Squamish B. crux is really cool!
I didn't find the grades soft as others have, but I did find the pitches on these routes to be pretty short b/c of the wandering and vegetables, so they went a lot faster than I'd normally expect routes of that length to take. The descent is super cushy.
We did most of the super-popular moderates up the Apron, and they were all good. It's easy to do 2 or 3 in a day with nice rests back at the truck in between. St. Vitus Direct to St. Vitus Dance to a 10a hands-to-face-traverse to Memorial Crack is also a nice link (and you can keep going up Squamish B if you want). There's a direct start to Banana Peel that lets you make a really long route, especially if you link up to Granville St. or the big 5.5. hand traverse (forget name...you can't miss it.) Lots of the linking possabilities are explained in the big (non-select) guide.
The 5.9-11a cragging cracks at the base of the Grand Wall/Campground area were pretty reminiscent of what you find in Yosemite, but the crowds were 3 parties deep at times on the classics.
We went in search of crack cragging another day over at the Smoke Bluffs, but the crowds + veiw of people washing their SUVs made us feel like it would be awesome if you lived there and wanted a few laps after work, but wasn't perhaps the best destination spot.
If you're taking a rest and go to the Adventure Center to check e-mail or get tourist brochures, you can ask them to play the movie about the FA of the Grand Wall. It was so well done, and learning about it added a whole new dimension to my trip. It's almost worth it just for the soundtrack.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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You should buy, or borrow, "Squamish Select" (Bourdon) or "A Climber's Guide to Squamish" (McLane). Both should more than cover your needs. www.squamishclimbing.com is another source.
Highway construction closures shouldn't be a problem, but do slow things down a bit - see http://projects.ch2m.com/TrafficUpdate/travelling-sts.asp Ditto Melissa regarding valuables and cars.
Most of the next week is forecast to be rainy - see http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-50_metric_e.html The last few weeks, and this weekend, have been warm and sunny.
Don't forget other amusement and recreation possibilities in the Vancouver/Squamish area, of which there are many. The Black Tusk/Garibaldi Lake is a fine hike.
Todd's picture of Clean Crack is reversed. There is/was a cruxy move at the bottom, which the "Thou Shalt Not" sign eases. The crux is higher up, above the pod in the crack, roughly where the climber is.
Squamish grades seem a bit soft for several reasons. First, many classic routes were upgraded in the 1980s and 1990s, unlike areas like Yosemite. (Eric and Daryl originally said the Split Pillar was 5.9, in 1975.) Second, many pitches aren't all that sustained, and/or have good rests. A 5.9 from Yosemite may be just that - every move for 40 metres is 5.9, plus it's strenuous = 5.10 modern grade. A Squamish 5.9 is technically 5.9, but maybe nothing much more. There is also a bit more convenience bolting at Squamish, especially belays, which again eases things.
You should sample all the different types of climbing. Those that others have mentioned are all ok. On the Apron, Diedre is perhaps the world's most over-climbed "multi-pitch", and dull at that. Banana Peel, Snake, White Lightning, and Vector or St. Vitus' Dance are much better. There are a half dozen good 1 - 5 pitch climbs at the base of the Grand Wall, lots of friendly stuff in the Little Smoke Bluffs, etc etc. Things like Boomstick Crack and North Gully are good novelty climbs.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 17, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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I didn't climb one lick harder in Squamish than I do in Yosemite. I guess you know what you know.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Aug 17, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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An easy and neat way to the top of the Chief at 5.10a max. Good belays on decent ledges higher up. Good pro and bolts where you need them.
Start with Diedre (5 pitches up to easy 5.8)
Climb Boomstick Crack next (2 pitches or one 60m of easy 5.6)
Scramble up and left to the start of the "Ultimate Everything" (10 pitches of up to 5.9 with one 5.10a/b on the final cool pitch)
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 17, 2008 - 01:32am PT
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Anders Ourom is the one and only ST Mighty Hiker. His guide was published in 1980, Gordon's in 1975.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Aug 17, 2008 - 02:08am PT
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Cirque of the Uncrackables--it's up behind the Chief, gets Southern exposure, and lives up to its moniker. Listed In the McClain guide, prolly others, it's that good for the one pitchies. Expect wider cracks, but they are all excellent (Cobra Crack is here), especially in your lead range--TR "Scimitar" for a wide testpiece at .11+
My family and I have been there 3 times the week after Labor Day and were satisfied every trip. Have fun.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2008 - 03:57am PT
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You guys rock!
Maybe I'll try to scrounge together a TR of the highlights after we get back. :)
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Aug 17, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
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I've spent two summers in Squamish. The best things 5.10 and under include:
Pipeline-10d, Exasperator-10c, Rock On-10a, Unfinished Symphony-11b or 10d A0, Cruel Shoes-10d, Crescent Crack-10d, Diedre-5.8, Calculus Crack-5.9, St. Vitus Dance-5.9, The Grandwall-5.11a A0 or 5.10 A1.
Pretty rad. One difference between Yosemite and Squamish is the route's don't all end with heinous 5.9 offwidthing but instead finish with mellow climbing. This is probably the reason why most people think Squamish is soft.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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Squamish is an absolutely delightful place to climb and the guidebook recommendations are usually right on with respect to quality and grade. The rock is stellar and user friendly.
A good pair of binos is a must and beware the unseen green that can occasionally fill in the more obscure though highly starred lines.
Stick to routes that have been re-bolted as well due to the deleterious effects of sea air.
Howe Sound is also a first rate sailboarding destination.
Certainly the best accessible granite climbing in the Northwest.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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Steve may mean the southwest. Or possibly the west. It may depend on how you look at it.
As I seem to have been 'outed', perhaps I'll add some suggestions, bearing in mind that my guidebook was written back when p'terodactyls were still nesting on the Chief. When going to a new area for say a week, I like to spend the first day or two doing moderate classic climbs, getting a feel for the rock and the climbing 'culture', figuring out where things are, and so on. I also like to do a variety of types and lengths of climbs.
You should have no trouble filling up a week. Given your ability level, I hope it includes:
Two or three slab routes on the Apron.
A day at the Little Smoke Bluffs.
A day at the base of the Grand Wall.
A trip up Apron Strings, Mercy Me, and so to the top of the Split Pillar (5.10 A0).
Squamish Buttress, preceded by Rock On or a route on the Apron and then Boomstick Crack.
Angel's Crest.
A few routes like Blazing Saddles, something on the Papoose, something on the "Squaw". Four - five pitch routes.
If so inclined, a trip to Cheakamus Canyon for some bolted routes.
Don't forget to post a TR!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 18, 2008 - 10:20am PT
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If so inclined, a trip to Cheakamus Canyon for some bolted routes.
Enjoyed that on our trip in May 07 (great on a rainy day). Also, near there, we did Star Chek in the gorge. Fun route with neat position. Unique location. I'd recommend that as a diversion too.
-Brian in SLC
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Aug 18, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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I'm in Squamish and love it.
Last year our favorite climbs were Squamish Buttress and Great Game on the Squaw. Our first two days here we got lost - did the start of Birds of Prey on the Squaw with a new and different finish; and St. Vitus Dance on the Apron, which is really nice. We wanted to climb Calculus Crack (if I'd bothered to look at the Apron before hiking up we might have found it..).
We're in Site 56 (my son Tristan and I); stop by for more beta.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 18, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
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I hoped to get back this August, but work got too heavy.
Grand Wall was one of the best routes I've ever done anywhere. And I know this is a trad site, but the sporty Pet Wall has amazing bullet granite that climbs like limestone. DOA, Black Water, and Burnin are all absolutely stellar. Plus it gets into the shade for evening sessions.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
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Oh, man... the Grand Wall looks great! Although, I'm a little bit intimidated by the 11a pitches...
Maybe we can build up to it and learn how to climb 5.11 cracks by the end of the week?! :) Or... more realistically... is it difficult to rap after the Split Pinnacle pitch?
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 18, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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It was blazing hot here last weekend hit 32C/90F. We went for a dip in Alice lake halfway through the day to cool off. Climbing at Murrin has the advantage of a lake immediately at hand. My favourites there are Zoe 9, Bog Wall 8, Wicker Cranium 9, A Little Testis 10b and Totally Clips 10b.
The Smoke Bluff Connection is a fun fake multipitch in the Smoke Bluffs if you can got on it since the first pitch (Mosquito) is one of the most popular climbs in the area.
Snake 9 is my favourite route on the Apron.
I think the Grand Wall is doable for solid .10 climbers with good lieback endurance. I did the Apron Strings/ Mercy Me variation last year with my hardest previous lead having been around .10b. It wasn't pretty but I got up it. There's a rap route off the Split Pillar if you take 2 ropes with you. It's an amazing line.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Aug 18, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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Don't forget the world class bouldering 10 minutes from camp!
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Aug 19, 2008 - 02:29am PT
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its no biggie to rap off the split pillar- lots of folks do it. do the Apron Strings start (cruel shoes looks awesome, but too scary for us...)
that said, if you're solid on 5.10 cracks, just go for it.
We spent two weeks there last summer and had a blast. generally a 5.10 leader in the valley, i didnt fall off anything there, and we climbed up to .11c at times.
other recommendations
Exasperator (link the pitches!)
Peasant's Route (wild finish)
Angel's Crest (not super hard, but great views and some awesome exposure)
Smoke Bluff Connection
Neat and Cool
The Grand Wall
Crime of the Century (do this when you're feeling good- its .11c!)
Partners in Crime
The Zip (the funnest .10 there)
High Mountain Woody
Paul's Crack
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Paul_in_Van
Trad climber
Near Squampton
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Aug 19, 2008 - 02:49am PT
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Hey there;
Agree, everything listed is good.
I second Milkrun - the two dihedral pitches are great.
Ultimate everything is a good alternate for the Buttress, also over on the same wall is upper Echelon (bit harder, but similar style).
If you only do one route to the rim do Angels Crest or the Grand, depending on your feelings. The crux on the grand is really the sword and there is good gear. Once you get past the sword, you have 11a bolted lieback and then 10a w/ few bolts (well bolted where 10a) and then 10c to the rim (undercling to lieback to jugs on a big flake). If you are sending high grade 10s you might have a challenging but great time. The grand did make a top 50 climbs list somewhere out there.
The pappose has some of the funnest easy 10 climbing in squamish.
Also in the bluffs, recommend Talking Holds, 10a overhanging fun, then set a TR on 11- direct. Will be out of the sun in the PM, which can be an issue in Squamish since most of the walls face W. Murrin is great to avoid sun.
And speaking of Murrin, forget the sport climbing in Chek, do stuff at the Pet instead. Warm up at Up Among the Firs. Well bolted slabs and gear at 10b and interesting face climbing at 10d there (Totally Clips, Little Testis, Poster Boy)
The alternate finish to Birds of Prey goes L up past a couple of bolts or so? Heard was 11-? Newish and looks interesting, the correct finish is great, run the 10a and 8 together for 50M of fun.
Paul
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2008 - 03:26am PT
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Killer! I'm definitely printing all this out and taking it along on the trip. :)
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kwit
climber
california
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:08am PT
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definitely spend a day up at murrin--'up among the firs' and 'pet wall' especially!
'a little testis' is a sweet finger splitter in a dihedral and to the left of it is a wild overhung slab thing...not sure how it works out, but somehow it goes at 10d.
at pet wall warm up on pleasant pheasant and then do even steven--10c strenuous crack, and excellent.
don't step on a hornets nest, though. they live up in that loamy soil off-trail.
i did and it made my climbing day a little more, ahem, intense.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Aug 19, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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World's Toughest Milkman at Milkman Wall in Murrin is a great 5.8, also Horrors of Ivan and Beat the Clock.
Hey, I heard you can still climb at Upper Malamute if you rap in? Is that true?
I really missed the climbing at the Lower when they closed it:
Id Arete, Overly hanging out, Hand Jive, Crescent Crack, Brown Ale, Clean Crack, Caboose - Damn...
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 19, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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yes, the upper malamute is still accessible, having two ropes makes some of the rap approaches simpler. High Mountain Woody is a must-do 5.8.
Climbing the apron classics by headlamp is a great way to avoid crowds & traffic noise. Nice place to watch the moon rise, too.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 19, 2008 - 10:40am PT
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The 11a on the Sword (the pitch above Split Pillar) is only one move with good pro right at your face. You could just yard pro if the move felt weird-- easy A0 w/o slings. Then you get a hands-down rest and an exposed but easy enduro 10b layback.
And the right side of Split Pillar is thin hands to hands or else laybacking and there are chockstones in the wide section so you don't have to off-width. You could toss in a cam anywhere for an A0 rest and keep it down to easy .10. Same thing with the undercling up high.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 19, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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Most of the suggestions have been pretty good. Probably because most of the climbing at Squamish is pretty good. It is getting crowded though, and when the temps get high the few shady routes get serious line-ups.
Someone mentioned the cracks that line the base of the Grand Wall, and several posters have mentioned individual ones by name, but for me the best of the lot is the Peasants Route. Not that any individual pitch is better than things like Seasoned in the Sun (one of Anders' routes) or Exasperator or Arrowroot, but because it is five pitches, and generally gets less traffic than the others. Cruel Shoes is also a superb climb and can be done either on its own, or as an approach to the Grand Wall. The two-pitch Merci Me, which also can be used as an approach to the Grand is also a brilliant climb in its own right. Two pitches, and only 5.8/9 but fantastic dike hiking in a very exposed location.
Regarding the Malemute, the closure at the base is open to various interpretations. But the top is certainly open, and has a collection of fun things to do. If you're feeling a bit adventurous, find your way down to the top of Quagmire Crack (a little below the climbs on the top tier), rap to its base, and climb back out. 10c and a true gem of a crack pitch. The alternative approach is to climb one of the two routes below it (can't remember their names) that start in the big rockfall area, but if you're climbing on the top tier for the day, it's probably easiest to approach it en rappel.
Another great 5.10 day can be had on the Sheriff's Badge wall. Several posters have mentioned the Angels Crest, which forms the left-hand border of the wall. It is an enjoyable 10-pitch outing, but more memorable for its position than for the actual climbing, which, aside from a couple of pitches, is mostly pretty ordinary. A more interesting alternative, with far better climbing, is to join the Angels Crest at half-height via Borderline. The first pitch of that route is nothing special, but the next four are excellent and varied. And you can easily avoid the 11c crux on p2 via a 5.9 variation to the right. The sun doesn't hit that wall till about 2:30, so if you get an early start you can enjoy some shade.
If you want a slightly shorter day, climb the first two pitches of Borderline, taking the 5.9 exit on p2, to the base of Blazing Saddles. The second pitch of that rig rates five stars on a three-star scale. It will also put to rest any thoughts you had about Squamish grades being soft (protects well, though, so don't worry).
Give us a tr when you get back.
D
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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If you are into some "backcountry" climbing adventure,
Check out "Fluffy Kitten Wall"
Awesome crack climbing, quiet, waaaay up there, and shady.
It's in the book.
Access issues at present, but still do-able.
Cheers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 19, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Check out "Fluffy Kitten Wall" Awesome crack climbing, quiet, waaaay up there, and shady.
I think two friends and I were the first to get up on that wall, probably almost 30 yrs ago, and I haven't been back on it. Always wanted to, but somehow didn't get to it. Have you got some pictures you can post? Or stories? Or thoughts about which routes you liked?
The other side of Habrich has some pretty cool climbing as well.
D
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 19, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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D.
Wow! Would like to hear of your adventures there... 30 yrs. ago.
That Route "Wonderful thing about Tiggers" seemed the best. Really good stuff.
Also, another, "Cat O Nine tails" , had some incredible pitches.
Climbed there mostly pre- road closure, when those heat waves hit the Chief. T shirts in the shade I remember, looking down below my heals at Planes flying up the Valley.
Did you guys summit? Did you climb wall to Climbers right of Kitten Wall?
Could try and dig up photos if you are interested.
Cheers.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Here are a few pics for inspiration...maybe.
The exposure and amazingly green views on the Cheif are awesome...
...if a bit urban and noisy at times.
The signage is abundant and, at times, a little wierd.
This his me heroically top-stepping my ladder as I send the descent trail.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Melissa, the trail sign "To All Peaks. Carry Water." isn't at all weird. Many similar trail signs in the area, and throughout southwest B.C., were placed in the mid to late 1960s. Part information, part education.
You can somewhat date the sign by the growth of the tree around it, and the rustiness of the fasteners. The one in the photo is probably from 1966 or 1967, and may even have been placed by my father.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 11:24am PT
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I took a bunch of pictures of these old signs. I guess "weird" is relative to what is familiar to the person doing the looking (and their sense of humor). To me seeing all of these old metal signs half consumed by the tree (some were dated as late as the 1980's and were barely visable from under the bark of the fast-growing trees), was an unusual sight. There were a few commemorating when the trails were made or revamped on commemorating the FA of the grand, etc. The itty-bitty warning "To All Peaks Carry Water" was funny to me though. I'm sorry if I should be taking it more seriously. I enjoy seeing things that I think are strange and that why I posted it for others. It wasn't meant as an insult.
We also spent a bunch of time going up and down the logging road w/ the guide making sure that we had it sussed which entries into the woods would be right for each route...only to learn that the name of the routes we were looking for was on the guideposts a couple of feet back into the woods. Doh!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 20, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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Wow! Would like to hear of your adventures there... 30 yrs. ago.
I wish I could tell you stories of big adventure, fearless climbing, and off-the-scale manliness, but in reality it was just another great day at Squamish. We'd looked at the wall from below en route to other projects, and decided to try to find a way up to the base and see how far we could get from there. There was a certain amount of crashing around in the bushes, and I vaguely recall some concern about a stream crossing, but eventually we did get to the real rock, and by the end of the afternoon had climbed about three pitches.
Given the potential of the wall, I'm not sure why we never went back. There was just so much unclimbed rock within easy reach of Vancouver back then that what became The Fluffy Kitten Wall didn't stand out. I think the three of us (my then wife Corina and our friend Dick Mitten) had our sights focused on bigger projects in the mountains of the Chiliwack River valley around that time.
David
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Leaving tomorrow morning!
Unfortunately, the weather doesn't look too great right now, though...
weather.com
Sat - Partly Cloudy
Sun - Rain
Mon - Showers
Tue - Few Showers
Wed - Showers
Thu - Showers
Fri - Showers
Sat - Showers
Bummer!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 22, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Leaving tomorrow morning! Unfortunately, the weather doesn't look too great right now, though...
If the rain is just ocasional showers, you'll be able to climb most days. If you are looking for other things to do on rainy days, pick up a copy of a small guidebook (the name of which I forget) to hiking and Mtn biking. It's by Kevin McLane (who does most of the climbing guidebooks for Squamish) and is in the "double book" format where the front half is hikes, but you flip it over and read it from the other end for MTB trails. There's a hike called "High Falls" that you should put on your list of non-climbing activities. I think it requires a drive of 45 minutes or so, and the hike is only a couple of hours return, but the gorge and waterfall you get to are amazing.
D
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 22, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
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I agree with Ghost. Monday we'll probably get some rain but the rest is unsettled weather coming through so I hope there will be some good climbing weather in there (fingers crossed). A lot of the routes dry in a couple of hours, especially the slabs. I bought an "I love wet crack- Squamish" t-shirt last year...
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Russ S.
climber
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Aug 22, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Justin - Squamish is a fabulous destinations, but sometimes the weather just shuts you down. One strategy we use is to take all of our northwest guidebooks along so we can hit the holes in the weather pattern. Being primarily a climber, I'd rather climb somewhere else than bike or hike in the rain at Squamish, YMMV...
There are numerous small to medium climbing areas within 200 miles of Squamish, so with a little internet weather connectivity and local climbing information you get in some productive rock time instead of watching road construction...
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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TR coming soon!
We ended up bailing on Squamish b/c of the horrible weather forecast...
Instead we visited the land of corn, potatoes and speeding tickets: IdaHO! and WYOMING.
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Paul_in_Van
Trad climber
Near Squampton
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What ever happened to that TR, not to put you on the spot or anything...
Paul
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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If you climb Penny Lane, you have to pay me a royalty of a penny. New user fee - a get rich slow scheme.
Persons named Penny (one recently did the climb), who did a first ascent at Squamish before May 1978, or who can play a piccolo trumpet, are exempt from this fee.
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MH2
climber
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If you climb Penny Lane, you have to pay me a royalty of a penny. New user fee - a get rich slow scheme.
Persons named Penny (one recently did the climb), who did a first ascent at Squamish before May 1978, or who can play a piccolo trumpet, are exempt from this fee.
I think I can do that. You spin the piccolo and whoever it points to kisses the trumpet?
Otherwise I owe $1.98
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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If I nail my way up it can i pay Cooper and Rajala a penny instead?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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If I nail my way up it can i pay Cooper and Rajala a penny instead?
Right on!
Everybody forgets the history of the climbs in the Bluffs. That they were covered in a 9,000-year accumulation of moss and that every crack was solidly packed with dirt tree roots. Plenty of them were nailed on the first ascent, and the rest were thoroughly cleaned on rappel before the "first ascent".
And by the way, have you seen Chris or Keith lately? I used to climb with those guys a lot, but have long since lost touch.
D
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Darn! Now I suppose you'll say I have to share my royalties.
Some guidebooks attribute an ascent of the route (aid) to Keith Rajala and Chris McCafferty, in 1975. The Vancouver/Squamish climbing community was then quite small, and if they were around and doing new routes, they were quite low-profile. I don't recall ever hearing their names at the time, and apart from being named as first aiding two nearby routes in 1976, they aren't otherwise mentioned in the guidebooks. When I cleaned Penny Lane in May 1978, there was no evidence of any prior ascent - usually pin and nut placements remove at least some vegetation, and would have been visible. Perhaps they have pictures that would clear this up?
If it was Chris Cooper, not McCafferty, then I'll ask him about this - he takes lots of pictures, and was around in the 1970s, although rarely seen at Squamish. I'll probably see him next week.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Rajala is climbing based out of Whistler? these days - his photo stream's on Flickr under the username maclobster
Chris Cooper's around too. Just saw some pics he took of Bruce Kay
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The Vancouver/Squamish climbing community was then quite small, and if they were around and doing new routes, they were quite low-profile
It was actually bigger than you remember. Even then, not everybody knew everybody else. Chris Cooper, Keith Rajala, and Chuck MacCafferty were definitely around, and definitely doing first ascents. But they were low profile (and they all lived out east in the Fraser Valley around Maple Ridge). They weren't climbing at the leading edge in terms of grades (although Chuck could get up 5.11s, even back then) and didn't hang out with your crowd, but that doesn't mean they weren't there, weren't playing an important role, and weren't having a total blast.
Here's a shot of Chuck in the Smoke Bluffs in the late 70s. (Note Whillans harness and EBs). Maybe I should post some of this stuff in the "Squamish in the 70s" thread.
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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The lobster in the name rang a bell. This website showed up on one of the Vancouver hiking message boards I participate in (clubtread): The Red Lobster Journal
[url]http://members.shaw.ca/k.rajala/LobsterJournalPages/LobsterMain.html[/url]
I hope he doesn't mind me reposting it here. I'm assuming that anyone that put that much work into a website would like it to be shared.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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David you forgot Ryan Shellborn
Nope. Didn't forget him -- you don't forget one of the best climbing partners you've ever had. I just didn't mention him in that post cuz he wasn't involved in the Penny Lane thing. In fact, I posted a couple of pictures of him the other day on the "Summit Photos" thread (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=848633&msg=848869#msg848869);.
...the telly commercial for "unity" in 1980... That would be a fun thread to put up :-D
I've actually got that in progress. But I'm not sure how much to post though, what with the probability of you being forbidden to ever work with children if anyone in Canada sees the pictures...
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