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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
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Hey - I just found this video on You Tube, thanks to the big wall tip from Doug Soderstrom aka Scout 2.
Chris Falkenstein made this video in the spring of '99 - he had to rappel about six hundred feet from the summit. Helluva thing when a video camera drops in on your solar-powered shower in your portaledge - sheesh. You'll find everything from a Rope Ratchet [what I used before adjustable daisies became the norm], an impressive Chuck Heston imitation, and even a few bars from Gilbert & Sullivan. Don't suppose you could upload my rendition of "I've Got the Big Wall Blues", could you Chris? Nice job on the video, thanks! Bits and pieces of Chris' work made it onto the front cover of Yates Gear's catalogue one year, and onto Don Reid's aid climbing video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IgM_8mcSA4&feature=relate
The video is ten minutes long, so grab your coffee or beer [depending on whether it is before or after Changeover Time]. I didn't realize his camera could pick up my commentary so well, so you might want to turn the volume down a bit, eh?
Cheers,
Pete
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Pretty fun! What pitch and what route (duh edit, Native son)?
Prod.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
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Native Son, the Golden Nipple pitch up near the top, just before it traverses into the Trip. Fun hooking! I think it's an old school A4 pitch on the topo, though it didn't seem too hard. Then again, the camera was watching, so you don't want to look too scared.....
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Nice.
Now how about a TR of BUBS?!
Ed
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Damn...that's some funny sh#t. Nice commentary PTPP.
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ricardo-sf
Sport climber
San Francisco
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"yosemitephotos" has some good vids on his utube profile! .. there is some nice YOSAR videos from when they rescued some guy who fell and got tangled on his lead lines -- seems to be over by Zenyatta Mondatta ..
.. anyone know when this rescue happened? --
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sh#t - I would pay like $30 dollars for all of Pete's tricks on DVD.
Please Pete?
Juan
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nice Pete!
Way funny,
What the f*#ks a “rope ratchet”? looks cool though
What happened next???
keep it up you’re quite a character. (eh?)
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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"yosemitephotos" has some good vids on his utube profile! .. there is some nice YOSAR videos from when they rescued some guy who fell and got tangled on his lead lines -- seems to be over by Zenyatta Mondatta ..
.. anyone know when this rescue happened? --
From YouTube:
Part 1, Rock Climbing Rescue, El Capitan. A drunk climber has fallen and is only being held by the rope around his leg. This is around 10am and the Yosemite rescue team risks their life to save him. They did not know how well the rope was anchored by the drunk climber when the rescuer jumared up.
-
Looks interesting. Brave guy, that rescuer.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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That rescue was a great watch. Cheers to Yosar!
Prod.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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PTPP - You're a nut!
Rope ratchet.. Hooks.. Mentions of Chongo....
Oh, that's right.. You've been up the three-hundred-how many days????
thanks for sharing some of your craft.. Make me almost want to get out there and learn it....
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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who was that in the Iron Hawk video? Cool stuff.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Ah, I see it is none other than Chris McNamera and Jeff.
Did you guys notice that the blue gear sling resembles suspenders, thus effectively turning his whole outfit into Super Mario?
Check halfway thru vid 4. Oooh yeah. That's style.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Pete, It quits just when it gets good...effing hilarious. You Rock.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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Hey, thanks guys for your kind comments!
Ed - I'll have to get to work on BUBS. I'm the one with all the photos, so, you know....
Riley - yeah, Thad Friday followed me up. He was one pitch below when Chris shot the video.
Graham - here's the rope ratchet.
http://www.roperatchet.com/
It's what I used to use before adjustable daisies were invented. The 1/4" size is the most practicable for aid climbing. The 3/8" is too big and klunky, and anything smaller isn't strong enough. It's only rated to 150 lbs, so be gentle, especially when bounce testing - don't use it!
Jingy - yeah, I'm a bit twisted. I believe my count is 360 nights on El Cap, not counting base or summit bivis. I gotta check my notes for the exact number.
That video of the rescue of the drunk guy off of Zed-Em is hilarious! Definitely worth watching.
Cheers and beers,
Pete
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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nice vid Pete and funny comentary. funny how it starts with you naked taking a shower...glad Chris wasn't any closer!
that rescue is nuts. I heard that story once and thought it was just BS..."BE A WARRIOR!" hahaaha
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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Thanks, Matt. Chris Falkenstein went to a HUGE effort to drag six hundred feet of rope to the summit and rap off. It's not every day you get someone to take photos and video of you soloing on the big stone - what a privelege.
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