Mother Earth - stories and photos from the first ascent

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
Thanks for the update Roger - I edited my post to make it a single bolt with ring hanger. Sorry we left you in a position where you bent your rules and rapped from a single bolt. Maybe we can get some permission for the next person willing to add a second bolt with ring hanger at that stance (3rd bolt on p7, at start of traverse right), so it can be rapped more safely from there or above in the future?
John?
Kevin?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 12, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Go for it.

Tighten that Mother up!


But not too tight, like 20 ft/lbs or so.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
May 12, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
Clint,

Would it be possible to add a bolted/fixed anchor at the top of pitch 7 and continue down the Smith Crawford or another route from there? Havin a double anchor mid pitch always bums me out. Too tempting, especially when looking at a long gnarly traverse like that.

If not, what about an anchor added below pitch 7 solely for the purpose of bailing? From there, you could link up with the Smith/Crawford for sure.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 12, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
Clint,

Maybe I'm not following this...

When you say you'd like to create the option of rapping from the third bolt on the seventh pitch, are you speaking in terms of that third bolt being a potential high point or topout on the ME route for people to climb to and then rap from, without doing the traverse to the corners et al? Or are you talking about using that bolt, and maybe doubling it up as a rap station which is reached from above on a potential rap route from The North Face Traverse?

My input might change depending on which of the above you're considering.

I appreciate what salamanizer is saying about not liking doubled up bolts midpitch, if there's a way around it.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 01:03am PT
Kevin, I was thinking of that 3rd bolt on p7 being a rap station for rapping down Mother Earth from (10) or from the rap anchor Bob and I placed between (8) and (9). But I agree with Chad's and your points that adding a midpitch anchor creates some problems (this is why Roger took some risks to avoid it).

Chad's idea of placing an anchor at the top of (7) might work best. I don't think you could reach (6) from there, but you might be able to reach (5) on the Smith Crawford. If it doesn't reach (5), like Chad suggested, probably an intermediate rap anchor could be placed well below the p7 traverse to bridge the gap to (5).

Assuming some solution is found, the double ring hanger at the 3rd bolt on p7 should be swapped for a regular (Fixe) hanger. If people need to bail there, they can leave a sling or biner.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 13, 2009 - 06:30am PT
Mid-pitch doublers are jive, IMO. Finish the lead or deal with it yourself. Don't place unnecessary convenience anchors. Keep it clean ...and tight! LOL
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
May 13, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
Hell Clint,
I rap from a single device, single biner, and a single rope all the time. I guess I can rap from a single bolt once in a while. Especially since I know the guy that placed it:-),
Roger
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 5, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
Mother Love Bump!
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
May 11, 2010 - 01:45am PT
badassness!!!
Chief

climber
May 11, 2010 - 07:49am PT
bump for a great thread and for adventures on Mother Middle!

I've mentioned a factor about all the climbing on MCR before, or most north facing walls for that matter - the routes look real licheny, grungy even, from the base because you're seeing only the undersides of all the roofs and scoops on the wall. But after climbing a pitch you look down and see the true colors of the rock appear on all the upward facing texture which has been scoured by weather for eons. The foreboding lead you stepped out on, looks instead like a mosaic of bright colors and generous, clean holds. It's always a kick to watch your partner negotiate the pitch from above.

This wonderful phenomena had Sutton and I trying to think of some names with an orange theme when we did The Grand Wazoo. Orange Sunshine, Orange Barrel, Tangerine Dream etc. Zappa trumped em all.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 12, 2010 - 07:07am PT
Look here ,brother. Who you jivin' with that Cozmic Debris?!? You could make more money as a sportclimber, so don't waste your climb on me...
Red Wing

climber
Truckee
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Didn't catch this the first time around. Anyone get on Mother Earth this summer? Anyone want to give it a go early June when the route is dry? Serious offer...

David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 27, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
This is a great thread, one of the gems of ST. Mark, any more pics out in the garage?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Red Wing,

Several people climbed the nearby new route Father Time in Fall 2012:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1962356/Father-Time-New-VI-Free-Route-on-Middle-Cathedral
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
Father Time 5.13b... That's over my head.

I'd be up for another trip up Mother Earth. I've only been to the start of pitch 7. I'd like to finish it to p. 10.

Still have to figure out how to get off the thing from pitch 10.
Doing several pitches of 5.10 crap to traverse off to the gunsight is bullsh#t. I'm thinking of adding an anchor to the top of pitch 7 or just below and rapping into the Smith Crawford.

Either way, I'm your huckleberry.
Red Wing

climber
Truckee
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
Thanks Clint! When was the last time someone topped out this route?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
Chad,

An anchor at (7) would not interfere with the climbing, but it would be hard to reach (6) from it because p7 traverses so much. Maybe you could reach (5) or something on Crazy?
Also, the anchor near the start of (10) which we rapped from is a single (newly replaced SS 3/8") bolt.

The traversing to the Gunsight is just one 5.10 pitch and a bunch of 3rd/4th class. And it is just a couple of 5.10 moves. If you did that 5.10 pitch, there is an anchor for Border Country at its end, which you could rap if you didn't want to scramble down the Gunsight. Not as straightforward as rapping Mother Earth, though.

Maybe simplest is to leave a biner or sling on the bolt on p7 and rap from it.

Red Wing,

I don't know when someone last climbed the entire Mother Earth. We know Mark and Max did it, but I don't know if others have repeated the entire route since then. Mikey might know.
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Apr 7, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Gotta bump this one again.

And say thanks to Long, Warbler, Meyers, Kauk, Chapman and everyone else that inspired me to look deeper and go farther up there on Middle Cathedral. Father Time wouldn't exist if you guys hadn't been inspiring me for so many years!

Red Wing, not sure if anyone has topped out ME lately. My original plan was to go up there and try and free the thing but I got distracted by the virgin rock out left...

Here are some pics by Jeff Johnson that will hopefully get others psyched to go check out Middle Cathedral. The season is almost here!

Some classic and amazing runout 5.10 up on Middle
Some classic and amazing runout 5.10 up on Middle
Credit: mikeyschaefer


Looking down toward the Smith/Crawford and Mother Earth
Looking down toward the Smith/Crawford and Mother Earth
Credit: mikeyschaefer

Me sticking the jug on the v8 boulder problem up high on Father Time
Me sticking the jug on the v8 boulder problem up high on Father Time
Credit: mikeyschaefer

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:26am PT
wonderful place to be
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:55am PT
Anybody wants a taste of this stuff, try the Flakes first. Just advisin'.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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