Father Time: New VI Free Route on Middle Cathedral

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
A few days ago, Mikey Schaefer made the first free ascent of Father TIme. He had established the route earlier this summer after two years of work. It's an impressive line on amazing rock. Patagonia published my trip report. More details can be found on Rock and Ice as well.

It was great climbing on natural hard free climbing. The pin scars of hard El Cap free climbs suck.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Oct 23, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
The pin scars of hard El Cap free climbs suck.


AMEN BRO!!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
WOW. Congrats to both of you! Wish I was able to do 5.12+ slabs with one arm tied behind my back. Actually wish I was able to lead 5.10 slab with both hands ATM! Well done!

Hope the attention of other STers move out of Lance Armstrong thread and on to this!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
SO RAD!!

Thanks for posting James. Nice write-up on the Patagonia blog.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
nice writeup and good photos. THanks
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
That's rad! However, looks like some bolts next to crack in a couple shots? Maybe the photos are deceiving, but looks like good pro....maybe I'm wrong
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
High angle slabs, 111 bolts, headpointing - cool - but were any ropes sh#t on in the process? If not, does that mean we're evolving, remorseful, or just too old to give a sh#t?
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
GNAR!!!!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
Super proud effort! I have always wondered why more routes don't pierce through the upper ramparts of Middle's North face area.

Way to persevere on a difficult sounding endeavor. Is there a topo available yet?
ec

climber
ca
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Brilliant!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
Very cool! Thanks for the TR.

John
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
Yeah Mikey !!


Middle Cat, the rock is never better.


Way to shred it Bro, nice posts.
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Definitely no bolts next to available natural protection. Though I did add three bolts to sections that I had initially used beaks and knife blades to protect. All 3 of these sections involve 5.13 climbing. I thought about not using the bolts but I'm glad I did. Both Tommy and Alex thought it would be scary without them. They also both fell on the bolts...

I drew up a shitty topo for Tommy but need to make a real one. I'm headed out of the country tomorrow for three weeks and probably won't get to it soon but will post one when I do.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
^that's what I figured. Nice job! Looks sick
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Very nice work! Congrats!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Must have been your fixed lines I walked by last month. What a beautiful place for a project. Magical cirque like area. Beautiful looking rock and I thought whoever was working way up there was really taking advantage of what the valley has to offer if folks would go off the beaten path.

Grats hope you had a blast up there!!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
I read the Patagonia report. Waytago, men. Awesome!!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
Terrific tour de force. Creative and visionary!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 23, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Bravo!!!
J.R.

Big Wall climber
Bend, OR
Oct 23, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
Congratulations Mikey! Looks awesome!
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