Serenity Crack p1 bolt is back

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Apr 28, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
I think the crack should be filled in with concrete, restoring the route to the thin nailing it was for the first ascent.

Oh, yeah, and the bolt has to go as well.

time to fire up the American Chopper, Vroom Vroom!
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
if they're gonna bolt up trade routes so the unqualified won't get hurt, wouldn't the nutcracker mantle be ahead of this in line?
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Apr 28, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
Aw come on klaus that dinky bolt is 'neath the American Chopper. Save the BIG GUNS for the BIG LINES.

Why any old 2 incher could chop that thing, might even manage to unscrew the damn thing on lead haha, swell it up to 3!

American Mini Bike!

Cheers dude
DMT
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
2-3 feet loweer? Bolt no bolt, no big deal in my opinion, but there is a bomber #4 BD (maybe a 5 I don't remember) stopper placement probably right next to the new bolt.

You stick the stopper in sideways. there a 3/4 inch slot that tapers but it's shallow. It also has a lip on it so the stopper does not fall out.

I'm serious, you should check it out. I'd love a second opinion.

The placement was about 2-3 feet below the old bolt, so you didn't need it, but I'd stop to place it any way to keep my gear creativity skills sharp.

Tom
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
As I recall, a #0 tcu works fine for protecting the nucracker mantle, and I also fail to see how that move gets the reputation it does.
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
Tom that's funny. Twice I've looked at that spot and thought "some small stopper HAS to fit there," tinkered around with my #5 and never gotten it to stick, and finally left it there thinking "that's purely psychological pro." I brought my #4 HB offset on Saturday to test it out (I bet it would have worked perfectly) but didn't bother trying since the bolt was just a couple moves further up.
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
paul-
i think peeps pul the mantle just fine but screw up the traverse step into the final slab, and since the last piece you get was back at the mantle, it fails to keep people from the slab below.

and i think it gets the reputation from the double compound fractures, but i could be wrong about that...
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
the stopper is sideways, the number faces the rock and the curved side faces out toward the climber. It's sweet.

If they moved the bolt there, maybe the argument changes.

Tom
Kindredlion

Big Wall climber
4hrs too far from YNP
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
the bolt was not there last mth... it was wet.. and that pitch was still bomber..

why chop it if you can flatten it?... so much less work..



seriusly.. i put it there... its for a new wave aid line i was trying to free... i'm above that now... it goes...

choppin brocolley?

why not just install a dozen crash pads? mark the bolt with orange spray paint? tick it with chalk? sheesh.. or u could just clip it, or not... stfu and climb.. pass me a kobra on your way ..
punjab

Gym climber
oregon
Apr 28, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
i agree with tom, have done the route numerous times and place a nut first. don't remember the size but probably an offset. oh, and that BOLT SHOULD GO, part of the fun of the climb is the run-out pin-scar pinching...and if one is not confident on that terain they have no buisness with being on it, go climb superslide...
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 28, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
"restoring the route to the thin nailing it was for the first ascent."

klaus, you figure that one out and you're a hero.






ION, I heard it was Zach who drilled the new bolt...



PS. It's so ironic that the crack is called Serenity. First the scaring, then the ugly chop, and now this.
crazyfingers

climber
CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
Are people climbing just the first pitch and then coming down?

I agree that there are options for bomber pro at the same level as where the bolt is and that section of rock is not the crux of the route, or even the pitch.

Placing the bolt there is obviously dumbing down the route and seems to only make things safer for the folks who maybe shouldn't be there at all.

Making climbing safer is a tricky matter. I don't want to see anyone get hurt, but making climbing safe is lame.

I'm sure I am now doomed to deck on the first pitch of Serenity...



nx

climber
Apr 29, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
I'm not sure why the bolder, stronger climbers have more right to climb Serenity. You're not really going to impress good climbers with that lead. I thought that bolt was there to get you past the junk at the bottom. I don't see special appeal about that runout.

Here's how a guy I know broke his back on a different climb: Place bad pro at 15 ft, fall at 20 ft, gear tugs, inverts you and pulls out. I thought the low pro on Serenity was crap - but I have no confidence.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 29, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
Just curious about this... I posted it elsewhere and got no response.

So, are there ethics to chopping? I think there should be. For instance in the threads talking about this Zach character, it's mentioned that's he's planning on chopping routes he can't climb. What kinda sh#t is that? I, for one, feel that if you can't do the route legitimately, you have no business even thinking about chopping.

Basically, I think rap chopping is as bad as rap bolting. Anyone else have an opinion on this? Oh yeah, I don't recall the bolt being there late last season either.
Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Apr 29, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
Here's how a guy I know broke his back on a different climb: Place bad pro at 15 ft, fall at 20 ft, gear tugs, inverts you and pulls out.

If anything, momentary pro should pull you upright, not invert you. Unless you've got your leg on the wrong side of the rope.

What am I missing?
nx

climber
Apr 29, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
If you hang from your harness you end up more or less horizontal, so the tug from gear will also usually take you off your feet. Also tripping happens (there are good trips and bad trips).
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 29, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
why not just take a chisel and create a perfect handcrack?
that mo-fo would be 5.7
































of course some 5.6 climber would want to see a bolt there anyway
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 29, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
Up to the bolt isn't much harder than 5.7... Low angle, good feet, etc...
Mr_T

Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
Apr 29, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
A true stone master spends their 10d days running it out on Greasy But Groovy, and can't be bothered with the Serenity traffic jam. There are so many awesome intermediate and hard routes in Yos with crap pro, why does some jerk have to go bashing one of the trade lines (that keep all those crowds occupied)? They have all of Tuolumne to keep them busy with poorly pro'd 10d's. Perhaps the chopper isn't strong enough for all those R's and X's and feels they have to cut down a 10a pitch to feel tough?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 29, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
Does that mean that the latest new bolt on Double Cross (J-Tree) should stay?
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