Serenity Crack p1 bolt is back

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Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno, CA

Apr 30, 2008 - 03:36pm PT

"Personally, I don't think Pamela Anderson is very hot but others seem to. In the eyes of the beholder I suppose"

haha! I agree there, Karl!

Wow! DIdn't know all of that, MH! There's a lot of irony there!

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Apr 30, 2008 - 03:39pm PT

Anyone getting worked up either way about a single bolt on that of all routes is the picture of myopic pettyness.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 04:00pm PT

Anders,

There is a link to the AAJ article (by Tom Frost) in my initial post in this thread.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Apr 30, 2008 - 04:25pm PT

Thanks, Clint. I trawled through the AAC website in an attempt to find the article, overlooking that it was right under my nose!

It is important to note that the article was on page 1 of that year's journal - the American Alpine Club (or at least its editor) showed considerable leadership in pushing the debate. In retrospect perhaps the advocates were leaning on a partly-open door, in that nuts very often were easier and faster to use than pitons, and overall as reliable. Also that nuts had slowly been getting better and more common. Nonetheless it was quite a sea change.

Serenity is really just a microcosm of the larger debate about climbers' impacts on the natural and human environments, both as climbers and simply as humans who are often citizens of developed countries. Also about what impacts are acceptable, and how they can be minimized or mitigated.

jstan

climber

Apr 30, 2008 - 04:34pm PT

Those photos had appeared in The Eastern Trade and Summit Magazine prior to appearing in the AACJ. They have almost as much exposure as the Bachar Yerian, which is quite a bit.

Edit:
Just a play on the two meanings of "exposure" here. The pictures were in print several times so I asked myself what climb involves risk of a big drop. The BY came to mind right away.