Serenity Crack p1 bolt is back

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Messages 61 - 73 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
""donini: "Another example of the Yosemitecentric nature of ST is the number of posts about a bolt on a mediocre route marred by pin scars."

SuperTopo? Yosemite-centric? Who'd a thunk it?

Of course, an article about the mediocre route marred by pin scars featured prominently in the journal published by Mr. Donini's organization in about 1972. Could be that has something to do with it.""

Nice!

Imagine a group of folks, mainly Yos climbers, all debating a climb in Yos, on a site centered around Yos climbing. Concept!

I think the quoted quote really comes off as just some egocentric, rather than Yosemite-centric, drivel. The mediocrity of the route is neither here nor there. Since it's so "beneath" you, maybe folks should be able to whatever they choose, as far as bolting?

And this "pin-scarring makes it a stupid argument" whining BS is really silly. Half the climbs in the valley started as aid routes and are free-climbable today because of scarring. Maybe folks should be able to bolt those as they see fit too, right?
jstan

climber
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
After I took that picture, whenever that was, Steve W took one look at it and said, "That's obscene." I took another look at it and saw that to which he was referring.

What we need to do is to put perfect replicas of Serenity in every climbing area and in every rock gym.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
Nefarius hit the nail on the head. I apologize for my original quote- there must not have been any caffeine in my coffee this morning. Over and out.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
Serenity to Sons is one of my favorite climbs and has been repeated mentioned in threads regarding "best 5.10 multi-pitch climbs"

Personally, I don't think Pamela Anderson is very hot but others seem to. In the eyes of the beholder I suppose

Peace

karl
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
Serenity Crack was claimed as one of the first 5.11 climbs in the U.S., when it was freed by Tom Higgins and Chris Jones. Tom Higgins as in LongAgo, who often contributes to our debates here. The route was featured conspicuously in an article in the 1972 (?) American Alpine Journal, promoting clean climbing - an article that included photos. (I don't have a copy, but believe the article was by Royal Robbins [Edit: by Tom Frost], and the photos of the pin scarring at the bottom were by jstan.) Serenity was the poster-climb to show why we needed to do things very differently.

In other words, even though it's not a particularly notable route in and of itself, it has history, and to some extent symbolizes the debate around bolts and climbing styles. No one has yet said why the bolt was placed to begin with, but my guess is that when people started to free the route, especially the first pitch, the existing clean protection (hexes and stoppers) wasn't of much use there. To deter further pin scarring of the soft rock, a bolt was placed at about the point where people would otherwise be reaching for a hammer. Having the bolt there then may have been thought the lesser of evils. There was a school of thought then (DR?) that believed nuts + a minimum of bolts [Edit: and/or fixed pins] was better than nuts + pitons.

Of course, back in the good old days, p'terodactyls still nested on Half Dome, and ate rap bolters. #46 was still in training.
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
I think Pamela has had some retro-work done. And come to think of it, they were chopped and replaced too!
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
Good post Mighty Hiker.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
"Personally, I don't think Pamela Anderson is very hot but others seem to. In the eyes of the beholder I suppose"

haha! I agree there, Karl!

Wow! DIdn't know all of that, MH! There's a lot of irony there!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 30, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
Anyone getting worked up either way about a single bolt on that of all routes is the picture of myopic pettyness.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
Anders,

There is a link to the AAJ article (by Tom Frost) in my initial post in this thread.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 30, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
Thanks, Clint. I trawled through the AAC website in an attempt to find the article, overlooking that it was right under my nose!

It is important to note that the article was on page 1 of that year's journal - the American Alpine Club (or at least its editor) showed considerable leadership in pushing the debate. In retrospect perhaps the advocates were leaning on a partly-open door, in that nuts very often were easier and faster to use than pitons, and overall as reliable. Also that nuts had slowly been getting better and more common. Nonetheless it was quite a sea change.

Serenity is really just a microcosm of the larger debate about climbers' impacts on the natural and human environments, both as climbers and simply as humans who are often citizens of developed countries. Also about what impacts are acceptable, and how they can be minimized or mitigated.
jstan

climber
Apr 30, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
Those photos had appeared in The Eastern Trade and Summit Magazine prior to appearing in the AACJ. They have almost as much exposure as the Bachar Yerian, which is quite a bit.

Edit:
Just a play on the two meanings of "exposure" here. The pictures were in print several times so I asked myself what climb involves risk of a big drop. The BY came to mind right away.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 1, 2008 - 06:08am PT
Just curious, but is there a route that continues on from Sons of Yesterday to the rim?
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