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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Ditto what's been said.
A TR (even of a partial ascent) without photos would still be a welcome read.
Thanks!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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bump for a TR...
with sugar on top
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 10, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
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Page 54, Climbing Magazine, October 2011
I'm curious how the bolts were placed on the 'crucial' pitch 2 of Tehipite Sanction...
They were out front mentioning that they rappelled in, but come on now...Rap bolted or not?
'Appears to me that a route 'had' to go with all the trouble to do a photo shoot and not to mention being sponsored.
'just an observation...
 ec
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Has Growing Up yet seen a complete second ascent?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 22, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
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Tarbuster, ec bump . . . couple rad dudz.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Isn't there video of this route in the last masters of stone?
Edit- thanks Peter I was mis taken.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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Salamanizer's account, however offhanded, would be EVER SO interesting for us all. His ascent up to the arch must have been well worth a few comments, dontcha thunk? Puleeze grunt out something!?!
No Ryan, not that I know of. This route hasn't had a second ascent, only a second half-ascent, and the original ascent is not available so far. It was actually to be a movie but hasn't made it past raw footage, partly for lack of money and partly for lack of conviction.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
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would love to hear about the 2nd ascent if it went. Seems like an amazing climb.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Vitaliy, Salamanizer's is NOT a second ascent. We understand it is the crack climb up to the arch's end or thereabouts and then retreat begins the slab climbing begins. Over a thousand feet of (rapbolted) rock still remained above this party as they exited.
Furthermore, it is not really the case in the strict sense, that there has been a first ascent yet either, after all there has not been a continuous ascent of the route.
So much would change if we had a few ascents of the thing and people came back and shared their opinions with us.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Mar 23, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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Shawn's pics are fantastic
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 23, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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This is one of my favorite threads on supertopo
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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So six years now and the thing still hasn't had a real ascent?
I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?
Yeah, but now there's such a stigma attached to it that people capable of doing it are afraid of being labeled sport weenies, or rap bolt lovers, or something; while all the sport weenies who wouldn't care about the label, can't do it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Would somebody mind summarizing this thread, or summarizing the history of the route? Has the route been done? Seems like people would be all over it, falling and trying.......
Now that the Dawn Wall is finished......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Bottom half done, ground up. Tons of hard climbing.
Top half done, top down.
It has all been free climbed, but not in a single ascent.
Big stink up about ethics. Reason was to have a safer route, compared to Southern Belle.
I think that's about the short of it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?
It is not a fact that it hasn't seen a second or third ascent. People might have gone to the top but not posted about it anywhere, especially not on this forum. I do not see many climbers who currently climb 5.13 or 5.12 here, even though there are a few...
Basically it is not known if it had a second ascent.
Continuous, partial or wall style, I would love to see some photos of it! If I had the skill to repeat it I would go this weekend. Hell, I would skip work and go tomorrow! Without giving a sh#t about being labeled as a "sport climber," "rap bolt lover," or any other ridiculous put down that some loser on a forum can come up with.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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^^^ I thought I had heard it getting repeated?
No matter, as the giant monoliths of Half Dizzle and El Capone have seen the majority of drama from cali climbers anyway. Who needs TLC?!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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V, the word would have gotten out if it had been successfully done. People just can't keep their custard holes shut about something like that.
It took about 5 minutes for us to hear about Honnold and Stanhope doing S Belle.
Heck we hear about every ten minutes taken off the Nose, the first female ascent of this, the fastest ascent of XYZ.
The first continuous ascent of this thing is news, no matter what we might think of the FA style.
I seriously doubt it has been done.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nobody would climb if they couldn't talk about it.
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