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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
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Yes, CMI.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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It doesn't seem like so long ago we might see one of those fixed and be glad it was so new!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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ha! my buddy clipped it (screamer and all) and went for it. we were both pretty surprised at how little contact it seemed to have had with the rock when I pulled it with a few taps from a little cobble.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Oct 26, 2016 - 05:10am PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 19, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
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Stephane: That Diablo is very sweet!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 19, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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Question: when did Doug Black start making climbing gear? Doug passed away March 12, 2016 and in Doug’s celebration letter it mentions that Doug was in the Navy then returned to the valley and opened his own welding shop in 1967. Doug is one of the founding members of the Arizona Mountaineering Club which started in 1964. The 1965 Eiger catalog shows Doug Black pitons for sale which specifies stainless steel rings. I have a Doug Black SS ring rap hanger from 1964, hand drill, and rappel rack from later 1960s. Does anybody know when Doug first started climbing and creating climbing gear?
Recently I obtained two first generation Doug Black angle pitons that have galvanized rings and welded ends. This shows that not all Doug Black rings were stainless steel.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 19, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
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Doug Black celebration letter
Come Join Us In A celebration of Doug's life .
Wednesday, March 23rd, 2016 from 5pm to 8 pm. at the
American Legion Post # 35 2240 West Chandler Blvd. Chandler, Az. 85224
outdoors at the Garden Pavilion area
( Just West of Dobson Rd. on Chandler Boulevard )
Website: http://www.legionpost35az.org/index.php?id=1
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/qnjx68ywjiz
Dress Casual and come mingle with all of his family and friends. Be sure to bring your best memories, jokes and stories along to share with us in celebration of his life.
There will be free food and beverages available for all and The Mountain Rescue Honor Guard will be performing a bagpipe salute to their fallen member along with other tributes to this great man's life.
Father, Business Owner, Rock Climbing pioneer in the Phoenix area and one of the founding members of the Arizona Mountaineering Club and the Central Arizona Mountain Rescue Association (CAMRA), and avid Sailor, passed away on Saturday, March 12th 2016 in Chandler after a long battle with Alzheimer's Disease. He is survived by his wife, Jeanne, children David Black-Gomes, Thomas “Tom” Black, John Black, Martin “Rand” Black and Susan Falcon as well as 6 Grand children and 4 Great Grand children.
Doug moved to the valley with his parents in 1950 from Minneapolis, MN and later served in the Navy aboard the aircraft carriers USS Hornet and USS Bon Home Richard. He returned to the valley and started his own welding shop in 1967, that specialized in steel stairs and railings and his specialty, custom spiral staircases. Always ready he worked with the 7th step foundation giving ex-convicts that much needed first job after they served their time in Arizona State prison.
Doug was one of the early members of the Arizona Mountaineering Club. He is remembered as a hero that along with other club members, was frequently called upon by Phoenix Fire Dept. to rescue stranded and injured hikers and climbers from Camelback Mtn., Piestewa Peak, Pinnacle Peak and the Superstition wilderness area, in the 60's. They later formed the Central Arizona Mountain Rescue Association (CAMRA) which became a Maricopa County Sheriffs Posse. He helped establish a rock climbing school along with other members of the Arizona Mountaineering club and later the Mountain Rescue Team, training men and women to properly and safely climb for sport. The team trained Phoenix Fire Dept., Pinal County Sheriffs, Grand Canyon Search and Rescue and other agencies in mountain climbing and mountain rescue techniques with CAMRA and he held Officer posts in both CAMRA and the National Mountain Rescue Association and helped to develop some of the technical hardware such as pulley and belay systems used to this day in Mountain Rescue. He brought the idea of using ATV wheels mounted on the stretchers for transporting victims through rugged terrain to the valley after seeing one at a National Mountain Rescue Conference in Washington state and was the first to begin mounting them on stretchers for use here in the valley. They are now standard equipment for Search and Rescue teams everywhere.
As a sailor, Doug bought his first boat while in the Navy and smuggled it on board the Aircraft carrier. He would break it out when they were moored in port and sail around as much as he could. In the 60's the family purchased several sailboats including a Coronado 15' which they regularly sailed on Lake Pleasant. He joined the Arizona Yacht Club (yeah you probably didn't know such a thing existed) and along with his son, John, they raced the boat in regattas at Lake Pleasant with the club.
Doug sold his business and home in 1978 and bought a fully ocean ready Coronado 41' Sailboat in Michigan and sailed it through the Great Lakes, the Erie Canal, down the East coast, through the Gulf of Mexico, The Panama Canal and up the West coast to Ventura Ca.. where he lived and sailed for several years taking trips as far away as Hawaii and British Columbia. He frequently sailed the Channel Islands off the California coast, one of his favorite places. In 1986 he bought land in Steinhatchee, Fl. and moved the boat there. He remained there for 21 years, starting his Wrought Iron company back up and volunteering with the local fire dept. until 2014 when his health brought him back to Arizona to stay with his son, John in Chandler.
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:34pm PT
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Marty, Thank you for posting up my fathers remembrance letter. I have some of his older climbing gear. I remember Dad describing how he manufactured the "rappel rings." One publication stated they would hold 4500 lbs static; pretty strong weld. Anyways, drop me an email sometime if you wish.
Rand Black
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
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Marty - your pic is kind of small and not to question your intelligence- which on climbing relating things is world class and way above my pay grade. But your words: "Recently I obtained two first generation Doug Black angle pitons that have galvanized rings and welded ends. This shows that not all Doug Black rings were stainless steel."
How do you know this is right? Did you test them? A magnet will stick hard on 400 series stainless (high tensile stainless) exactly as if it was high alloy steel. Those rings on Blacks pitons may in fact be 420 stainless steel. All welders know that Galvanization is deadly to breath once hit by the heat of a weld, no matter the type of weld. They DO NOT want to weld on it although they will if they have to do so to repair something in a critical application. This was a mfg application, not a critical repair. You are saying that Black ignored this conventional wisdom and welded on Galvanized steel? When this does occur, there is usually an appearance change as the galvanized coating burns off and leaves bare (based steel) metal whi9ch quickly rusts to a deeper brown butted up against the lighter grey coating. Welding 400 series stainless will not cause that appearance conflict/change.
I'm a shitty welder, so am probably wrong, but if you haven't already, you might consider checking the material to verify or eliminate 420 stainless steel so as to not change history in error?
Rand Black - thanks for showing up. Marty will be contacting you I'm sure. Speaking for the rest of us, any stories of your dad you'd like to share, Anything at all. In my opinion, the best stuff on this web site is historical ramblings and remembrances of back when. It's what makes the site awesome.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 23, 2016 - 08:13am PT
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Rand - Its the holidays, lets talk about family! Talk to you soon.
Couchmaster - I am not a metal expert but the rings on the old Doug Black angles look like the rings on half of the other pitons I have. Maybe just metal with a gray non rust coating? The newer Doug Black rings retain their shimmer and shine even after 50 years of natures weathering. The magnet sticks to the ring. So I have not tested the older Doug Black rings to see it they are truly SS, but comparing the old and new Doug Black rings there is an obvious difference. The first generation pitons were purchased directly by Wally Vegors from Doug Black.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Edelrid Amigo
Edelrid Twin Cam
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Some mythical climbing shoes
PAs
EB Super Gratton
La Sportiva Mariacher
La Sportiva Mirage
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Marlow - Edelrid Amigo 1983 Germany created by Rudolf Springmann.
Edelrid Twin Cam. 1985 Germany (Info from the Karabin-Pennequin Masters Challenge): Available in sizes 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2, 3. Available in different colored slings, This cam nut uses the same lobes as the Edelrid Bivo cam devices. Created by Bernt Prause.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Brilliant. Thanks, Marty!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Patent DE 32 45 893 Rudolf Springmann 14 June 1984
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dingus - The spring on the Edelrid Amigo is so tough, it could second for automobile springs! I don't know how that device could be placed and removed one handed. Outstanding collectors piece for sure! The one I have came from Stephane.
nutstory - Stephane your Amigos and Twin Cams are so clean and beautiful!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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In 1983, in Germany, Edelrid produced the Amigo, in two sizes, which worked on the same principle of a wedge sliding on another. Designed for medium cracks, 36 to 52 mm, one needed a third hand to place them, that brushed aside quite a number of potential users living on our planet. Nuts' Story: Clockwork Friends ;-)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 17, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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Mystery shoes looking old - what model?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!